Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to-w...

July 10th 2017

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo. Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectively the launch of Neapolitan tro...

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to-w...

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo.  Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effective...

SuitsJuly 10th 2017

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

May 31st 2017

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while everyday suits and jackets are ma...

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while e...

Cloth - SuitsMay 31st 2017

Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London

May 29th 2017

This week, Thursday June 1st to Saturday 3rd, both Agyesh of Stoffa and Marcus Malmborg for Eidos will be back in London. I’ve written previously about the wonderful colours and design sense of Stoffa, but not about Mr Malmborg (above). Marcus...

Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London

This week, Thursday June 1st to Saturday 3rd, both Agyesh of Stoffa and Marcus Malmborg for Eidos will be back in London. I’ve written previously about the wonderful colours and design sense of Stoffa, but not about ...

Jackets - SuitsMay 29th 2017

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

May 26th 2017

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors w...

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and eve...

Casual clothing - DenimMay 26th 2017

Style Guide – the partners shoot

April 24th 2017

The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all. There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised so far. One is that we proudly d...

Style Guide – the partners shoot

The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all.  There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised s...

Hanks and scarves - KnitwearApril 24th 2017

Sartoria Ciccio: Noriyuki Ueki, bespoke tailor, Japan

March 27th 2017

Of all the tailors we visited in Japan last year, Ciccio was the one I was excited about seeing. I'd seen and tried on examples of his work on friends, and more importantly heard good things about his attitude to style and working with customers. We...

Sartoria Ciccio: Noriyuki Ueki, bespoke tailor, Japan

Of all the tailors we visited in Japan last year, Ciccio was the one I was excited about seeing. I'd seen and tried on examples of his work on friends, and more importantly heard good things about his attitude to style ...

SuitsMarch 27th 2017

Honorific: The Permanent Style valet stand

February 27th 2017

The reaction to the pop-up shop so far has been wonderful: hundreds of people through the door every day, both highly engaged, loyal readers and strollers-by interested in something so different on Savile Row. The first two days have been a whirlwi...

Honorific: The Permanent Style valet stand

The reaction to the pop-up shop so far has been wonderful: hundreds of people through the door every day, both highly engaged, loyal readers and strollers-by interested in something so different on Savile Row.  The fir...

SuitsFebruary 27th 2017

Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor, M...

February 17th 2017

Creare - to create Sentire - to feel For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmanteau of a name, 'Sartoria Cresen...

Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor, M...

Creare - to create Sentire - to feel  For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmant...

SuitsFebruary 17th 2017

Signor Francesco: bespoke tailor, Toronto

February 8th 2017

I have visited LeatherFoot in Toronto, Canada twice in the past year, and each time the aspect I have liked most is the on-site tailoring workshop. So few shops have crafts on-site, even though it gives them a direct connection to the artisan. Indee...

Signor Francesco: bespoke tailor, Toronto

I have visited LeatherFoot in Toronto, Canada twice in the past year, and each time the aspect I have liked most is the on-site tailoring workshop. So few shops have crafts on-site, even though it gives them a direct co...

SuitsFebruary 8th 2017

Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples

January 30th 2017

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London. Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache and a sterling reputation in Napl...

Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London.  Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache...

SuitsJanuary 30th 2017

The importance of fit

January 2nd 2017

Akihiro Mizobata, Ring Jacket A well-fitted jacket is the most flattering thing a man can own. It occurred to me recently - in conversation with a long-term reader - that we don’t talk about the importance of fit anymore. Yet it used to be all...

The importance of fit

Akihiro Mizobata, Ring Jacket A well-fitted jacket is the most flattering thing a man can own. It occurred to me recently - in conversation with a long-term reader - that we don’t talk about the importance of fit anym...

SuitsJanuary 2nd 2017

‘Snob’ Tailoring book republished

December 12th 2016

It seems to be the month for notices and happenings. This latest one is to note that the tailoring book I originally wrote back in 2011 has been republished. I've had lots of enquiries over the past year about this book, as the first version sold o...

‘Snob’ Tailoring book republished

It seems to be the month for notices and happenings. This latest one is to note that the tailoring book I originally wrote back in 2011 has been republished.  I've had lots of enquiries over the past year about this ...

SuitsDecember 12th 2016

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

November 18th 2016

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was als...

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of e...

Jackets - SuitsNovember 18th 2016

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side....

Bags - Casual clothingNovember 4th 2016

Five double-breasted styles compared

September 1st 2016

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my own jackets to demonstrate these...

Five double-breasted styles compared

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits.  This week I've used five of my o...

SuitsSeptember 1st 2016

Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and Style

August 3rd 2016

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button merchant, and the embroiderer, b...

Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and Style

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button me...

SuitsAugust 3rd 2016

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

July 29th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Following on from previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, in this article we t...

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

  This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Following on from previous articles on single and double-brea...

SuitsJuly 29th 2016

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

July 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs)....

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the mate...

Cloth - SuitsJuly 20th 2016

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

July 6th 2016

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast was immediately noticeable. As s...

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring.  The contrast was ...

SuitsJuly 6th 2016

Suit style 3: The double breasted

June 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the double-breasted ja...

Suit style 3: The double breasted

This is the fourth article in our  Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Percepti...

SuitsJune 27th 2016

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

June 23rd 2016

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the chest, perfect on the shoulde...

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting.  The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through t...

SuitsJune 23rd 2016

Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit

June 1st 2016

Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting. Regular readers wil...

Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit

Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting. R...

SuitsJune 1st 2016

Suit style 2: The single breasted

May 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many buttons should I have on a single-bre...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

This is the fourth article in our  Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many butto...

SuitsMay 27th 2016

The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner

May 11th 2016

Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms under the shop on Savile Row...

The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner

Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms un...

SuitsMay 11th 2016

Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume

May 9th 2016

Bryan Manning (above) is a cutter who trained at Kilgour French & Stanbury, before running his own workshop in various forms for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of his career, however, is the costume work h...

Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume

   Bryan Manning (above) is a cutter who trained at Kilgour French & Stanbury, before running his own workshop in various forms for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of his career, h...

Suits - May 9th 2016