The T-shirt under tailoring
May 26th 2021I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style B...
April 9th 2021Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style B...
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Thanks Simon....
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
March 3rd 2021This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly f...
Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
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No I think they sound nice David, and looking at those trousers online they look like a great colour...
Outfits I got wrong
February 19th 2021Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
January 22nd 2021I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being ...
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
November 18th 2020This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the shoulder and to a lesser exte...
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
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Hi Lindsay, he is based out of the Oxo Tower Barge House St, visited him over the summer and he is one of the cheeriest people I have ever met. Also the suit he cut for me is stunning which just adds to the whole experie...
New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...
October 19th 2020Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of trying to commission a suit or ja...
New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...
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Thanks indeed....
Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke tai...
September 18th 2020*Note: Joshua and Kimberley are now running their own, separate operations. Kimberly, at 'Lawton', can be found here* Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in W...
Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke tai...
Match in comments:
Thanks David, yes good idea. They tend to go through a lot of changes, as Kimberley has here, now on her own, and it can seem like the best idea is to wait a bit - but perhaps a summary helps avoid that....
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
August 28th 2020With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong Kong. New York has lots of vi...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
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I wouldn't say so, no...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
August 19th 2020Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades. Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters. Kathryn Sa...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
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Hey there, I would look at the bunches of W Bill, Brisbane Moss, Holland & Sherry and any other British mill that offers Irish linen. If you can't find a dark enough navy there, try and find someone that can source from ...
The guide to jacket pockets
July 27th 2020As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn’t covere...
The guide to jacket pockets
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Yes, I think flaps work with their style as they're kind of playing with the smart and casual overlap. Mostly tailors will want to order cloth for you, so it's a supplier they know, and they'll know how much cloth. The a...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
July 17th 2020One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
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Mostly the style...
Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review
July 1st 2020Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician. I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make. The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, both in the handwork visible...
Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review
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Unfortunately, Kenjiro had insufficient assets and went into liquidation in France. It is truly a shame. https://www.actu-juridique.fr/annonces-legales/kenjiro-suzuki-sur-mesure-paris-jugement-tc-procedures-collectives/...
Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review
June 10th 2020Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should...
Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review
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Exactly my thinking. Thanks a lot for your expertise!...
Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review
June 1st 2020This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; a...
Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris
May 15th 2020Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Ander...
Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris
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Yes I have, the shirt I featured recently here was from him. It was very good and I'd say pretty comparable with Luca. The only thing would be whether small changes to style and fit could be made in the same way with JMM...
The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutt...
May 8th 2020How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him? Simple: never let him meet the customers. I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cutting room. Unlike most t...
The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutt...
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Well, best to judge trousers on where they sit standing up I think. Have a look at my various suit reviews and you'll get a better sense of the trouser length I like - eg the review of Suzuki's suit is here I'm not sure ...
Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown
May 1st 2020(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapolitan tailo...
Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown
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This is honestly one of your best suits, it cannot be said that this is better than your Solito, Dalucore, or Ciardi, they're all great, each one has a slight variety, to those saying it is too short this or that, that i...
Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI&...
April 27th 2020Benson & Clegg is not a button shop. I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhaps more significantly be...
Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI&...
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Interesting to see non-flapped pockets on these old DB overcoats...
Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit
April 24th 2020Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a matter of comfort. So arguing...
Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit
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Hey Jack, I really don't know I'm afraid - I would have guessed the material, but if that's the same then I have no idea...
Video: How long should a jacket be?
March 30th 2020This is the second in a series of videos in which we're looking at how a jacket should fit. The first one, here, was a summary of the basics on fit. In this second one, we look at the length of a jacket. This is the kind of thing that can seem like ...
Video: How long should a jacket be?
Match in comments:
No problem Liam. On the shortening, I think it's best for me not to give you numbers, as it is so hard to tell from some photos, but rather for you to consider the points in this video and assess it yourself. For the sle...
Video: How a jacket should fit
March 9th 2020This is the first in a series of three videos in which I look at how a jacket should fit. In this first one, we cover the basics around the jacket - front, back and side. It's a useful summary of the main points, and applies as much to a high-street...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
December 30th 2019As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
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I'd say that's probably deliberate - a question of more fullness being pushed towards the top of the sleeve, rather than about being spalla camicia or not. I wouldn't mind it, but more a personal one as to whether you do...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
November 25th 2019I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
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I'd be absolutely fine in it indoors, but I guess it depends a little on how hot you run generally. No, those other suitings would be sharper and feel a little different....
The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review
November 20th 2019This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology. Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a workshop in mainland China. Th...
The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review
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I wouldn't myself. Flaps usually don't tuck cleanly into a patch pocket, unlike a welt pocket. But I would probably just go with a normal patch pocket...
