Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

June 23rd 2016

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the chest, perfect on the shoulde...

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting.  The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through t...

SuitsJune 23rd 2016

Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit

June 1st 2016

Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting. Regular readers wil...

Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit

Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting. R...

SuitsJune 1st 2016

Suit style 2: The single breasted

May 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many buttons should I have on a single-bre...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

This is the fourth article in our  Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many butto...

SuitsMay 27th 2016

The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner

May 11th 2016

Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms under the shop on Savile Row...

The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner

Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms un...

SuitsMay 11th 2016

Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume

May 9th 2016

Bryan Manning (above) is a cutter who trained at Kilgour French & Stanbury, before running his own workshop in various forms for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of his career, however, is the costume work h...

Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume

   Bryan Manning (above) is a cutter who trained at Kilgour French & Stanbury, before running his own workshop in various forms for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of his career, h...

Suits - May 9th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...

April 29th 2016

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the difference between bespoke, MT...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...

This is the first article in our  Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard   What’s the diffe...

Jackets - SuitsApril 29th 2016

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

April 25th 2016

Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatmakers and trouser makers. ...

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

   Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coa...

SuitsApril 25th 2016

I work in an office

April 1st 2016

A reader commented to me recently that one of the things he likes about Permanent Style is the fact I work in an office, just like him. It hadn’t really occurred to me before, but the fact that I work in a modern, professional office every d...

I work in an office

   A reader commented to me recently that one of the things he likes about Permanent Style is the fact I work in an office, just like him. It hadn’t really occurred to me before, but the fact that I work in a modern,...

Style - SuitsApril 1st 2016

Which house style suits your body shape?

March 7th 2016

So, how shall we tackle this one then? Look at house styles in turn, or body shapes? I suggest we should look at each major house style, and consider the effects that each has on the body – accentuating one aspect, minimising another. It...

Which house style suits your body shape?

   So, how shall we tackle this one then? Look at house styles in turn, or body shapes? I suggest we should look at each major house style, and consider the effects that each has on the body – accentuating one a...

SuitsMarch 7th 2016

Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb &...

February 24th 2016

Air force blue is a beautiful colour. Better than the bright, tonic blues that are so popular these days – so much deeper, so much more subtle. Also known as RAF blue, the colour refers to the uniforms issued to the Royal Air Force when...

Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb &...

   Air force blue is a beautiful colour. Better than the bright, tonic blues that are so popular these days – so much deeper, so much more subtle.  Also known as RAF blue, the colour refers to the uniforms issue...

Style - SuitsFebruary 24th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – gr...

February 10th 2016

Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and the...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – gr...

   Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced ...

SuitsFebruary 10th 2016

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

February 8th 2016

*London trunk show details: February 18-20 [email protected] +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to prominence, getting coverage an...

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

   *London trunk show details: February 18-20 [email protected] +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to pro...

SuitsFebruary 8th 2016

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

December 7th 2015

Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the formal attire of cho...

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

   Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the ...

Style - SuitsDecember 7th 2015

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

November 23rd 2015

My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs last month. But books, polos ...

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

  My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else.  The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs...

SuitsNovember 23rd 2015

Video: How to press suit trousers

November 20th 2015

This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s been an interesting process...

Video: How to press suit trousers

   This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s...

Alterations and care - SuitsNovember 20th 2015

Video: How to look after your suit

October 21st 2015

  This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it all] They are p...

Video: How to look after your suit

  This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit.  [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it ...

Suits - VideoOctober 21st 2015

Green flannel suit – from Brian Smith

October 2nd 2015

Few readers will be surprised to hear that I like a nice green suit. Green is a wonderfully versatile colour, going with every autumnal colour you can think of, plus really strong browns, purples and oranges that few other colours could support. (...

Green flannel suit – from Brian Smith

   Few readers will be surprised to hear that I like a nice green suit. Green is a wonderfully versatile colour, going with every autumnal colour you can think of, plus really strong browns, purples and oranges that fe...

Style - SuitsOctober 2nd 2015

Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei

September 9th 2015

A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit. I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a Rubinacci-made number in the s...

Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei

   A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit. I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a ...

Style - SuitsSeptember 9th 2015

Five tips on suit alterations

July 15th 2015

A few weeks ago a reader asked about tips on having a suit altered. As often happens, this came up in the comments to a post – some of the best information is in there! I always recommend having a suit altered of course, if you have boug...

Five tips on suit alterations

   A few weeks ago a reader asked about tips on having a suit altered. As often happens, this came up in the comments to a post – some of the best information is in there! I always recommend having a suit altered...

Alterations and care - SuitsJuly 15th 2015

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...

June 12th 2015

At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and An...

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...

  At our  Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Li...

SuitsJune 12th 2015

How to make a cheap suit look good

June 10th 2015

Not everyone can afford a bespoke suit, or even a top-end ready-to-wear one. But there are many things you can do on any budget to improve the look of your tailoring. 1. Buy conservative If a suit isn’t of the greatest quality, make sure it d...

How to make a cheap suit look good

  Not everyone can afford a bespoke suit, or even a top-end ready-to-wear one. But there are many things you can do on any budget to improve the look of your tailoring. 1. Buy conservative If a suit isn’t of the great...

SuitsJune 10th 2015

Edward Sexton grey flannel suit

June 3rd 2015

My apologies to readers that have been waiting for these shots of the Edward Sexton suit. Books, corrupted photos and other things seemed to consistently get in the way. I’ve always wanted a double-breasted mid-grey flannel. I had one m...

Edward Sexton grey flannel suit

  My apologies to readers that have been waiting for these shots of the  Edward Sexton suit. Books, corrupted photos and other things seemed to consistently get in the way.  I’ve always wanted a double-breasted ...

SuitsJune 3rd 2015

The 1-6 suit rating system

May 11th 2015

My interview with Jonathan Clay last week went down well with readers – perhaps because he’s not the kind of person that would normally be interviewed. As the supplier of Italian ready-made suits, he sees all sides of the indust...

The 1-6 suit rating system

  My interview with Jonathan Clay last week went down well with readers – perhaps because he’s not the kind of person that would normally be interviewed. As the supplier of Italian ready-made suits, he sees ...

SuitsMay 11th 2015

Grey shirts with grey suits, at Milan launch

May 5th 2015

Last week was the official launch of the Permanent Style book, with an event in Milan hosted by Vitale Barberis Canonico and A Caraceni. I was interviewed by the fashion editor of La Repubblica, Simone Marchetti, about my history and views on cont...

Grey shirts with grey suits, at Milan launch

   Last week was the official launch of the Permanent Style book, with an event in Milan hosted by Vitale Barberis Canonico and A Caraceni. I was interviewed by the fashion editor of La Repubblica, Simone Marchetti, ab...

Shirts - StyleMay 5th 2015

Interview: Jonathan Clay and the story of Italian...

April 27th 2015

  Jonathan Clay runs a suit-making facility in Italy, supplying high-end English and foreign retailers. His father did too – d’Avenza – and here Jonathan explains that story: how Italians learnt manufacturing from the Engli...

Interview: Jonathan Clay and the story of Italian...

  Jonathan Clay runs a suit-making facility in Italy, supplying high-end English and foreign retailers. His father did too – d’Avenza – and here Jonathan explains that story: how Italians learnt manufacturing ...

Suits - April 27th 2015