I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. 

Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. 

So the shoulders are extended as one would expect, the lapels are also wide, and the line of those lapels is cut straight, so they appear to curve away from the chest. 

But the bottom half of the jacket is rather different, much more closed before curving away quickly. 

 

 

House: Sartoria Vestrucci

Address: Via Maggio 58, Florence

Site: vestrucci.com

Cutter: Loris Vestrucci

Price of a two-piece suit (at time of writing): €4000

 

This was my first suit from Vestrucci, and was made in 2017. It was begun quite soon after Tommaso Melani of Stefano Bemer brought Loris Vestrucci out of retirement, to try and start a new tailoring house. 

Loris is a great cutter – I’d seen the results on my friend Tommaso Capozzoli for years, as he was a longstanding client. And Loris is a great character. Even though he speaks no English, his face is so expressive that you always feel you know what he’s thinking. 

The suit, in charcoal flannel, had been something I’d been thinking about for a while. I had a similar ready-made one from Ralph Lauren when I was younger, and loved how it looked with black shoes and pink shirts in particular. 

Of course, that didn’t fit very well (I remember the trousers were absurdly narrow) so it was great to get a bespoke update. 

 

 

Let’s start with those aspects we now think of as ‘Florentine’ style. 

It’s particularly significant because it has become something new tailors around the world mimic, in part because the combination of wide shoulders, soft structure and rounded edges is flattering yet not too formal. 

The shoulder width on this suit (the length of the shoulder seam on one side) is 6¼ inches, which is a tiny bit less than my Liverano but wider than all the other Italians. 

The padding in the shoulder is very light (perhaps a little less than Liverano) and the structure elsewhere similar. 

 

 

The lapels stand out for their width immediately: a full 4 inches. 

However, they look even wider because the lapel is cut straight and therefore rolls up and outwards from the waist button. This means the lapel is initially quite thin. 

Two things on the Vestrucci suit then exaggerate that width further. The gorge (where lapel and collar meet) is low and the gorge line (the seam where those two meet) is fairly flat.

Both small differences from the Liverano, but they combine to make that Florentine lapel style even more noticeable. 

 

 

The foreparts are where the Vestrucci cut stands alone. 

Look at the line of the edge of the jacket from the (fastened) waist button running downwards. It starts straight – rather like an English jacket – but as it gets towards the bottom curves away, in a very round shape. 

It’s a combination between the formality of English tailoring (and Vestrucci himself talks about English modesty in covering the groin) and Neapolitan curves.

Compared to the visual impression of the shoulders, lapel and chest, this is a small point. But it is quite distinctive once you start seeing it. 

 

 

The jacket is quite short, perhaps just failing to cover the seat (again something Liverano echoes). 

And there is a surprising amount of drape. It’s hidden well, but there is considerable room in the chest and in the back, which combines with the light structure to make the jacket very comfortable. 

I think that’s one of the things I enjoy most about the suit. It looks quite smart, but there is real flare in the lapels and it feels easy to wear. 

 

 

The clothes I’ve worn it with are of course deliberately striking. 

I’ve always liked tonal dressing and the ability to wear charcoal cashmere under charcoal flannel is hard to resist. Topped off with black boots and a white handkerchief, it has high impact without loud volume – like the best of classic menswear. 

But it would be equally at home with a white shirt and perhaps bronze-coloured knitted tie. And black oxfords. 

In fact, I saw an older man in Dulwich dressed just like that recently, when walking back from a badminton game with my friend. My friend’s comment? “It looks like he’s on the board of directors.” Not a bad impression to give.

The charcoal roll neck is from Anderson & Sheppard, as is the white-linen handkerchief, and the boots are the Shannon model from Edward Green. I’ve replaced the original leather soles with rubber Dainite to make them a go-to winter boot. 

 

 

Style breakdown

  • Shoulder width: 6¼ inches
  • Shoulder padding: Thin
  • Sleevehead: Small roping
  • Sleeve: Generous, aggressive taper
  • Cuff: 11 inches
  • Lapel: 4 inches, straight
  • Gorge height: 4½ inches
  • Drape: Generous (but visually subtle)
  • Outbreast pocket height: 11 inches
  • Buttoning point: Low, 19½ inches
  • Waist suppression: Suppressed
  • Quarters: Very straight, then aggressive rounding
  • Length: 30¾ inches
  • Back seam: Straight
  • Vent height: 9½ inches
  • Trouser width at knee: 19 inches
  • Trouser width at cuff: 15¼ inches

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

 

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P Lewis

Hi Simon,

Would you mind telling us how much it cost you to resole your Edward Green boots?

Thanks

BespokeNYC

And also where you had them done – very few places seem to do Dainite soles!

Fantastic outfit by the way – very striking. I’ve never quite felt comfortable wearing a rollneck and suit as I worry it looks a bit 70s / Steve McQueen costume. I think the dark tonal colours help a lot here.

giovanbattista

Hi Simon, I really like this suit, and also the tonal color palette. Would you wear it with black suede oxfords or black tassel loafers?

I have a question that maybe is off-topic (or maybe universally on-topic). I didn’t find a specific post about it, sorry if it actually exists.

What’s “sartorial truth” about darts on the front of the jacket? (one, two, extended, displaced…)? Are they always used also in Bespoke and MtM jackets? My father says that a jacket without darts looks cleaner and more beautiful (especially with patterned fabrics) but I cannot understand how can a tailor give a shape to the jacket without these cuts and seams (none of us are experts in this field, of course).

Thank you!
GB

giovanbattista

Thank you, Simon.
GB

shoddy

Nice breakdown. I find the explanation of the finer points of Florentine style very interesting and useful.
Could you include a profile just of the trousers for these breakdowns (at least when the subject is a suit not an odd jacket). This might be useful to allow readers to see the minor trouser variations you have, and maybe see the effect of varying drape in the material, although I appreciate that it’s not the thrust of the series.
I like the charcoal on charcoal, the three-roll-two, and the suit generally. But the boots seem brave, especially when you have reduced contrast in the top half. Perhaps the photos exaggerate this effect.

Chancellor

Like Shoddy, I’d appreciate a couple of lines about the trousers when it is a suit.

Anonymous

A nice suit. The boots & turtleneck do detract from the review a bit though, as they become part of the focus, making it less easy to really analyse the cut, fit, make etc. For future reference in this series I think it is easier if you keep the rest of the outfit relatively consistent and conservative, so we can judge the suit / jacket for itself, rather than as part of a get up

Jason

Although I understand Monsieur Anonymous’ point, you should accelerate making suits look louche and casual. It is really their only future.
Personally I like the cut of the suit and teaming it with a roll-neck works well.
That said, I’d drop the pocket square. It makes the whole thing too twee.
Also it would be good to find a suede alternative for the boots.
Those two minor points withstanding, it’s good flaneuring !

Ian A

Simon I really like those boots! Do you favour Dainite over the Ridgeway sole for durability?

David

Maybe at some point a post on the different options for soles, especially rubber, would be useful.

Anonymous

What are those very thin rubber soles called? If you wear out your leather soles very easily, can that thin rubber sole withstand that? Or would it also wear?

And is there such a thing as combining toe taps with rubber soles? Is it redundant?

Anonymous

I wear down my heel stack a lot by the way I walk. Would you advise putting a bit of metal at the end there too? Or would that cause slippage?

I found out the brand of those really thin zig-zag rubber soles: Vibram. I’m assuming Dainite wears better simply because they are thicker?

I’m debating which one to order because as mentioned above, I wear out my sole.

Anonymous

So for one staple rain chukka shoe, would you go for a Dainite sole, or a thin rubber sole? I’m tempted to go for thin rubber because Dainite can be quite heavy. Would the shoemaker basically have to cut the plastic Dainite shoe in order to insert a metal toe tap?

Why do you prefer Dainite over Ridgeway Simon?

Anonymous

I forgot to say I live in California

Chancellor

Apologies for continuing on this tangent, but I don’t think there’s an obvious better post to raise this.

I’m interested in your experiences with dainite soles, as I’ve heard variable opinions about them.

As best as I can gather, they seem to be more durable as compared to leather, and particularly so in wet conditions. However, given the stiffness of the rubber, they are perhaps less comfortable than leather soles (which will mould to the foot), and much less comfortable than other rubber soles (which are softer and more shock-absorbing)? I’ve also heard differing opinions for them in winter conditions (I refer to Canadian winter conditions) in that the type of rubber possibly doesn’t afford them additional traction in icy conditions.

Any perspectives you have on them would be appreciated.

Chris

Could you please show us your personal closet sometime?

Haackk

I’m unsure on whether the jacket would work with jeans. I suspect it wouldn’t, but then again – it might. Seeing that a lighter grey one, like the one from Anthology, would work. Could it be the darkness of the colour that makes it harder to pair with jeans? An obvious aspect is the flap pockets, but flaps could be put inside the pockets making them jetted.

Anonymous

Another lovely piece Simon.

I have a question that is off topic. In one of your posts you mentioned a tailor in London, I think it was somewhere in Peckham? that works with Knitwear, I have a piece that I need altering, would you mind sharing his details again.

Thanks

Luciano

Hi Simon, very interesting as usual.
Could you give details on the cloth ?
Thanks

Otávio Silva

That’s a very beautiful suit. I would say a flannel suit is one of the great pleasures in tailoring. Comfortable, sofisticated, yet subtle and very wearable. All of those are maximized through a nice cut and fit. This jacket is fabulous. I love the fuller cut and soft curves. However, I find the trousers to be quite narrow compared to the jacket. It almost seems their style come from different tailors. This seem to happen in many of your Italian suits. Don’t you think a leg opening of 15.25 inches is too small for a business suit? 16.25 ~ 16.5 inches would look more proportional while still looking trim. What are your thoughts?

Anonymous

Do turn ups look good on dinner suit trousers?

Rups

This may seem a bit of a funny question but Im genuinely curious. Do you think displaying the groin area through open quarters on a jacket is a more sexy look? What is the purpose of displaying the groin vs. not doing so?

M

Hi Simon,

Quick question: the folds on the sides of your back – is that a “fault”? Seems a little less clean than some of your other suits.

Cheers,
M

Robert Giaimo

Would you wear dark suede oxfords or loafers with this suit? I ask because I particularly like the combination of charcoal and brown suede. Thanks.

Antonio

Lovely piece

¿What about armholes? In photos I cannot see it

Thanks.

Ben

Great looking suit. Would have liked to see the quarters a bit more open and the lapels more generous at the buttoning point, but balance and proportions are spot on. I, too, am a member of the turtleneck and boots club.

Anonymous

Re. knitwear alterations for anonymous: it’s a way from Peckham but try ‘Laine-MadeUnique’ in Brighton. They have a range of older knitting machines that allow for different types of repairs and alterations.
https://laine-madeunique.com/

Anonymous

Thank you.

Not sure where the Peckham thing came from, I’ll have to scroll back and find it.

Paul Boileau

What’s Ambrosi’s involvement? Does he make (or wear?) the trousers?

Ron Barry

Hello Simon. Looking for some advice on deciding on my first flannel 3 piece in VBC. I’ve narrowed it down to either charcoal or a dark forest green. Charcoal is classic, can’t go wrong but I’m intrigued by the dark green but not sure it’ll be as versatile. You have any insight?? Thank you for your time!
Best regards

JB

Lovely to revisit this suit again. It’s definitely up there in my favorite suits you’ve covered list, along with Panico and A&S cord db to mention a few others.
I really like the tonal styling here too.

The only thing that strikes me as a bit off is how low the pocket flaps are on the jacket, but I suspect that’s partly due to my own preference of having jetted pockets on pretty much all my jackets.

Antonio

Please, could you describe the armholes? high? small? As the result Is it comfortable? .

To show the job of the shoulder-arm I recomend you take one photo whith an arm not attached to the body at least.

Ravi Singh

Simon, the suit reviews and these series are excellent reference point for anyone looking to get into bespoke or building on their current wardrobe; particularly because suits tend to be some of the most expensive part of the wardrobe and bespoke has so many variables.
Any plans to cover the W&S suit , It is the one i am looking forward to.

Matt

Very nice! I am a fan of charcoal flannel.
I think the trousers being slightly slimmer than you usually wear are actually very flattering and the suit overall looks nicely balanced.
Reading the comment requesting that you write about the trousers made me think that an important aspect of the suit trousers is how they balance with the jacket. I mean, a fuller cut drape suit would probably need trousers cut fuller in the leg.
But of course there is much less to talk about here than there is with the multiple variables of a jacket.

Chris

Hi Simon,

“The shoulder width on this suit (the length of the shoulder seam on one side) is 6¼ inches, which is a tiny bit less than my Liverano but wider than all the other Italians.”

“All the other Italians” includes Panico? (as the shoulder width on the flannel suit he made looks extended)

Thanks. Chris

Caius

The diagonal wrinkling on the back from the sleeve upwards is somewhat concerning. Is it a result of you trying to stand straighter than usually, or a permanent flaw in the cut?

John

Hi Simon,

you look wonderfully in the suit & roll-neck combination. These photos strike me as the most stylish from the whole “suit style breakdown” series so far. They make me think of Mr. Edward Sexton himself who makes this combination, especially with a DB suit, to look as the definition of sartorial nonchalance.

I’ve been thinking about this combination lately. A fine-knit woollen roll neck of dark colour with a solid worsted or woollen suit (not with a casual one or with an odd jacket). Please, could you comment on (in)formality of this combination? You have the experience of working in professional, serious environment – would this pairing be acceptable? Would this combination be adequate in rather conservative fields (banking, law, top management circles) – of course, if we discount really formal events or occasions (court etc.)?

I mean, given how many poorly dressed men from those fields I still see almost daily (gaudy or boring ties, terrible suit cuts, awful shoes), it would hurt to hear that someone dressed as good as you in this article is inappropriately attired just because of a lack of a shirt and a tie.

Thanks!

J.

Manuel

Hallo Simon,

great suit, great combo! Just one question: Do you think it is as essential of the sleeves of a turteleck to show under the sleeves of a suit like the cuffs of a shirt?

Thanks,
Manuel

Javier

Hello Simon,

Is the length of the trousers you wear when using boots the same when you use lower shoes?

Thanks!

Ezra

The back armhole looks like maybe he cut it too high and/or without enough slope, causing the fold pointing towards your neck. You can also see it a little in the lower back/waist with the lines also running parallel. With your significant slope (a pain I understand), it can be hard to get it right. I put a tall (at least by today’s standards) pad on my jackets so I don’t have to cut with so much slope. Otherwise a nice suit and a good write-up

Ezra

I hear you, and I’m not trying to rag on your suit (it’s very nice), but even from static pics I am fairly certain that the slope is too square and possibly the armhole is too high. It’s very hard to push one’s shoulders down lower than natural, so even though the picture might not have caught you in your exact natural posture, I think there’s a good chance they didn’t slope enough. RE padding, I agree that feeling like a linebacker isn’t ideal, but I use enough that I can reduce some of the slope without making the pad noticeable. I’ve made the mistake of over-padding before and it is definitely annoying.

Sam

Honestly, one of your most beautiful suits. Flattering, yet restrained.

Astemir Almov

Hi Simon, I really like these lapels but don’t understand this words: “the gorge line (the seam where those two meet) is fairly flat”. Could you provide examples of gorge line which is cut in opposite way? I really interested in gorge and lapel architecture.

Harry13

Hi Simon, thanks for all of the great content. Among Vestrucci, Liverano and Corcos, which house cut would you say is most flattering for someone who stands 5’8 and has a slim but slightly athletic build? Would age also play a role in the decision?

David Nicholls

Hi Simon
I am interested in acquiring a two piece charcoal suit. I would like it to have a “formal” look.
Would you recommend any specific cloths?
Thanks for the advice.
David

Lucas Nicholson

If you’re looking for more formal, then you probably want a worsted wool, around 11 to 13oz probably.
To be honest, there are lots of good cloths in this area, and the only major difference between them is that some use finer wools – super 130s, 150s etc. If you want it to be hard wearing, and not too expensive, I’d stick to the lower end of that spectrum.

Ayush

Would a chocolate brown brouge shoe work?

Anonymous

Hi Simon, which fabric book is this charcoal flannel from?