Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer
November 1st 2019I do not know Roman tailor Gaetano Aloisio. But I've heard good things, and seen one or two as well. So when Bruce Boyer told me he was having a suit made by Gaetano, I asked whether he would write something brief about his experiences. It's not a ...
Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer
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Great! Cannot wait to read It. I’ll be going there in late July. Hopefully it’s done before!...
Suit style 6: Buttons
September 23rd 2019This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here. God, I love a good button. Some are so nice I could eat th...
Suit style 6: Buttons
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Hey. Sure, happy to help - Grey MOP wouldn't look too summery I don't think, but it would look a little fancy/flashy, even in grey. Still, less so than a yellow metal - Dark brown horn wouldn't look too Italian/continent...
The dark shirt
August 26th 2019Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman. If done right, though...
The dark shirt
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Yes, it's kind of a petrol blue/grey. I like it...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
August 5th 2019Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
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Thanks, greatly helpful....
Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review
July 17th 2019This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it l...
Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review
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I enjoy wearing it still Aaron, but it's more of an exceptional suit rather than an every day one, and not the easiest to break up either...
If you only had five casual suits: A capsule coll...
July 10th 2019I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commonly used in recent decades, aft...
If you only had five casual suits: A capsule coll...
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Great thank you once again. Helpful as always....
The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you
June 28th 2019One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know everyone is thinking about what ...
The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you
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I would think so, but very hard to tell without more information. I'd say if you want to lean more casual, perhaps do something like a denim shirt with the jacket - I'd even do jeans before wearing a casual jacket like t...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
June 19th 2019Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
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Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...
Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown
June 14th 2019Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That’s down la...
Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown
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Thank you for your response...
Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieve...
May 27th 2019Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it felt more immediate and person...
Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieve...
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Thank you for your thoughts on this, Simon and I agree. Now on to find a nice trouser to pair it with as an alternative....
If you only had five business suits: A capsule co...
April 29th 2019These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here. When you...
If you only had five business suits: A capsule co...
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Many thanks! Much appreciated....
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
April 19th 2019Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
April 8th 2019Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
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To be honest Darius, if you're going through that kind of change, I would hold off on buying anything that's a real investment. Sorry, I know it's not what you want to hear but it is much more sensible...
Video: How to buy a bespoke suit
April 3rd 2019This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct cloth choices, and how the measuri...
Video: How to buy a bespoke suit
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If possible, yes, so it's easier to get a sense of the style before any permanent decisions are made, eg on length. It depends how far the piece is made from that trial cloth fitting to the next one of course though...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...
February 20th 2019Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird in th...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...
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Great advice. Thanks for the ideas...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
February 6th 2019In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
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Sure. When I say the shoulders are still strong I mean: - There is a little bit of padding in the shoulders, so they still make a firm straight line - There is a little bit of roping, so the shoulder line continues into ...
Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...
December 28th 2018You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-...
Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...
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I can't to be honest, but they do look pretty similar. I think that would make up nicely...
Video: Maintaining and caring for your suit
November 9th 2018The Campaign for Wool recently asked me to help them with a series of videos educating people on caring for wool products. Chaired by HRH Prince Charles, the Campaign is a charity that communicates how environmentally friendly and sustainable wool i...
Video: Maintaining and caring for your suit
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Thanks Max. I'd agree on cedar, and on most of those scent-related remedies generally. I find if I smoke/spray for moths once a year I have no issues at all...
White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...
November 7th 2018Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is s...
White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...
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Nice to hear. I'd try some dark, rich colours like purple, burgundy or possibly green...
George the Presser
November 5th 2018*Note: George has now combined with Celebrity Dry Cleaners and The Jaunty Flaneur shoe care, to form The Valet, offering all three services* There are many unsung heroes of bespoke tailoring, but one of the biggest has to be the presser. Frankly, a ...
George the Presser
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Ah, ok, I think that would be fine then Richard. In any case, nothing that hanging the suit when you get home (with plenty of space around it) wouldn't fix....
Nicola Cornacchia: Bread and murals in Puglia
October 12th 2018It’s easy to draw conclusions about a tailor from their surroundings. The big houses of Savile Row certainly benefit from this, in particular those with wonderful interiors like Huntsman or Anderson & Sheppard. But they can be misleadi...
Nicola Cornacchia: Bread and murals in Puglia
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I don't, no sorry. I will check with them when I get to the post though...
Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown
September 17th 2018We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris – which is all close chests, roped shoulders and ornate finishing. Now...
Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown
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No, there should always be a little excess there. If it was completely clean you wouldn't be able to reach your arms forward at all...
Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review
August 29th 2018This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g). Twills like this (covert is ...
Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review
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Just look at the prices of a good MTM today. https://www.permanentstyle.com/2025/07/who-are-my-favourite-made-to-measure-tailors.html...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style bre...
August 24th 2018Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accentuat...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style bre...
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Thanks Phong. I'd say they're pretty similar...
Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern
August 10th 2018This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke. It will continue to be added to over the next few ...
Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern
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Thank you so much!...
