Suit style 3: The double breasted
June 27th 2016This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the double-breasted ja...
Suit style 3: The double breasted
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And the double-breasted frock coats of some Orthodox Jews....
Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit
June 23rd 2016I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the chest, perfect on the shoulde...
Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit
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I wouldn't think that would be a good idea, no. You want some difference in texture or pattern - applies to pretty much all identical materials...
Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit
June 1st 2016Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting. Regular readers wil...
Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit
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Ah, I see. No, don't worry about that Michael...
Suit style 2: The single breasted
May 27th 2016This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many buttons should I have on a single-bre...
Suit style 2: The single breasted
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Really? Interesting, it might be my memory but I can't remember anyone I've worked with saying that...
The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner
May 11th 2016Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms under the shop on Savile Row...
The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner
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Yeah, I understand that but with most of the houses that are absorbed by other houses, they don't take on anything other than the patterns and the client book....
Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume
May 9th 2016Bryan Manning (above) is a cutter who trained at Kilgour French & Stanbury, before running his own workshop in various forms for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of his career, however, is the costume work h...
Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume
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That sounds interesting, where can I find it?...
Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...
April 29th 2016This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the difference between bespoke, MT...
Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...
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Facts!...
Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring
April 25th 2016Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatmakers and trouser makers. ...
I work in an office
April 1st 2016A reader commented to me recently that one of the things he likes about Permanent Style is the fact I work in an office, just like him. It hadn’t really occurred to me before, but the fact that I work in a modern, professional office every d...
I work in an office
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Ah, Pitti... this is exactly the reason why I prefer British fashion over Italian. Don't get me wrong, I can appreciate their style and creativity, but if your source of inspiration is let's say James Bond instead of Pit...
Which house style suits your body shape?
March 7th 2016So, how shall we tackle this one then? Look at house styles in turn, or body shapes? I suggest we should look at each major house style, and consider the effects that each has on the body – accentuating one aspect, minimising another. It...
Which house style suits your body shape?
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It isn't really I don't think Tommaso. You'd make the armhole smaller, which could get uncomfortable pretty fast, and affect how the sleeve sits...
Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb &...
February 24th 2016Air force blue is a beautiful colour. Better than the bright, tonic blues that are so popular these days – so much deeper, so much more subtle. Also known as RAF blue, the colour refers to the uniforms issued to the Royal Air Force when...
Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb &...
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I think they'd still have the same limitations probably...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – gr...
February 10th 2016Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and the...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – gr...
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From what I've seen of the Huntsman service it's good, but it is expensive for what it is. I think you'll be absolutely fine if that's what you want. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give yo...
Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit
February 8th 2016*London trunk show details: February 18-20 [email protected] +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to prominence, getting coverage an...
Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit
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When your arms are hanging naturally at your sides, the cloth of the sleeve should be smooth. And not look smoother and less wrinkled if you move your arm forward or back...
Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit
December 7th 2015Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the formal attire of cho...
Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit
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Smith's Luxury Flannels...
Final Camps de Luca grey suit
November 23rd 2015My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs last month. But books, polos ...
Final Camps de Luca grey suit
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Never anything as convoluted as an old Bertie, GD. Just a simple four in hand always. Just get a tie that's the thickness and the width you want in the bottleneck....
Video: How to press suit trousers
November 20th 2015This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s been an interesting process...
Video: How to press suit trousers
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Yes, true. I'd say around super 120s...
Video: How to look after your suit
October 21st 2015This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it all] They are p...
Video: How to look after your suit
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How wide should such a "wide-shouldered" hanger for suits be?...
Green flannel suit – from Brian Smith
October 2nd 2015Few readers will be surprised to hear that I like a nice green suit. Green is a wonderfully versatile colour, going with every autumnal colour you can think of, plus really strong browns, purples and oranges that few other colours could support. (...
Green flannel suit – from Brian Smith
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Generally yes, though tan can be a bit strong and navy a little difficult too...
Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei
September 9th 2015A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit. I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a Rubinacci-made number in the s...
Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei
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Yes, I'd wear some sort of collar, and probably slip-on shoes, like a loafer or a pair of Sagans for example...
Five tips on suit alterations
July 15th 2015A few weeks ago a reader asked about tips on having a suit altered. As often happens, this came up in the comments to a post – some of the best information is in there! I always recommend having a suit altered of course, if you have boug...
Five tips on suit alterations
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I wouldn't necessarily recommend Cad, Benjamin, but we have a post here with all our recommendations. If you look in the menu of the site you'll also find a section just on alterations, where some of these companies are ...
Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...
June 12th 2015At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and An...
Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...
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Sometime in the future it would be interesting to see a range of work from provincial Tailors. Some people who have posted on your Blog have alluded to this subject in the past. There are many talented people out there a...
How to make a cheap suit look good
June 10th 2015Not everyone can afford a bespoke suit, or even a top-end ready-to-wear one. But there are many things you can do on any budget to improve the look of your tailoring. 1. Buy conservative If a suit isn’t of the greatest quality, make sure it d...
Edward Sexton grey flannel suit
June 3rd 2015My apologies to readers that have been waiting for these shots of the Edward Sexton suit. Books, corrupted photos and other things seemed to consistently get in the way. I’ve always wanted a double-breasted mid-grey flannel. I had one m...
Edward Sexton grey flannel suit
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I wouldn't say that was the main trait - it's more the roping at the end of the shoulders, the padding, and the structure elsewhere, rather than the actual width. So if you have bulky broad shoulders, it will make those ...
The 1-6 suit rating system
May 11th 2015My interview with Jonathan Clay last week went down well with readers – perhaps because he’s not the kind of person that would normally be interviewed. As the supplier of Italian ready-made suits, he sees all sides of the indust...
The 1-6 suit rating system
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Yes I would Will. A jacket can be incredibly light with a lightweight fabric and lightweight canvas. Usually brands don't want to use the lighter weight canvas though as it can be more expensive....
Grey shirts with grey suits, at Milan launch
May 5th 2015Last week was the official launch of the Permanent Style book, with an event in Milan hosted by Vitale Barberis Canonico and A Caraceni. I was interviewed by the fashion editor of La Repubblica, Simone Marchetti, about my history and views on cont...
Grey shirts with grey suits, at Milan launch
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I still quite like them with grey suits Philip, but it's certainly more of a fashion look...
