Sartoria Ciccio: Noriyuki Ueki, bespoke tailor, J...
March 27th 2017Of all the tailors we visited in Japan last year, Ciccio was the one I was excited about seeing. I'd seen and tried on examples of his work on friends, and more importantly heard good things about his attitude to style and working with customers. We...
Sartoria Ciccio: Noriyuki Ueki, bespoke tailor, J...
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Perhaps it is worth noting that Ciccio’s house style is a ventless jacket, for both single and double breasted suits. Quite a big point to take note for those considering commissioning with them!...
Honorific: The Permanent Style valet stand
February 27th 2017The reaction to the pop-up shop so far has been wonderful: hundreds of people through the door every day, both highly engaged, loyal readers and strollers-by interested in something so different on Savile Row. The first two days have been a whirlwi...
Honorific: The Permanent Style valet stand
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I'm afraid I don't have any recommendations, no. That was a friend's, not mine, and vintage I think. Let me know what you find though!...
Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor,...
February 17th 2017Creare - to create Sentire - to feel For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmanteau of a name, 'Sartoria Cresen...
Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor,...
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His passing is a great loss. But he made no contact with his customers, and his family gave up the inheritance. I commissioned a jacket, but got nothing. This is very irresponsible behavior....
Signor Francesco: bespoke tailor, Toronto
February 8th 2017I have visited LeatherFoot in Toronto, Canada twice in the past year, and each time the aspect I have liked most is the on-site tailoring workshop. So few shops have crafts on-site, even though it gives them a direct connection to the artisan. Indee...
Signor Francesco: bespoke tailor, Toronto
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My pleasure, and thank you for the comment Simona...
Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples
January 30th 2017This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London. Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache and a sterling reputation in Napl...
Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples
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Yes, much more for double breasteds. On a single breasted jacket a peak lapel can be too unusual or showy. Better on smarter materials too, more of an evening look and feel...
The importance of fit
January 2nd 2017Akihiro Mizobata, Ring Jacket A well-fitted jacket is the most flattering thing a man can own. It occurred to me recently - in conversation with a long-term reader - that we don’t talk about the importance of fit anymore. Yet it used to be all...
The importance of fit
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Hey Liko. Have you seen my breakdown of Rubinacci here? That gives you a sense of the bespoke fit. It's not really the very unstructured, spalla camicia look you're after. However, Luca may also be talking about their RT...
‘Snob’ Tailoring book republished
December 12th 2016It seems to be the month for notices and happenings. This latest one is to note that the tailoring book I originally wrote back in 2011 has been republished. I've had lots of enquiries over the past year about this book, as the first version sold o...
‘Snob’ Tailoring book republished
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They are the same usually, yes. I'll look at the photo zooming...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
November 18th 2016Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was als...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
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Very well done. I think the videos on this site are a nice extra touch. It adds extra value and experience to hear from the personal side of tailoring, which I think is a very wirthwhile side to this industry. Luxury ite...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
November 4th 2016I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....
Five double-breasted styles compared
September 1st 2016Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my own jackets to demonstrate these...
Five double-breasted styles compared
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Thanks very much, Simon. I wish there was a rule!...
Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and ...
August 3rd 2016In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button merchant, and the embroiderer, b...
Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and ...
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Would certainly love to read your views on that indeed! Cheers...
Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short
July 29th 2016This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Following on from previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, in this article we t...
Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short
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Generally, more open will break up the lines more so if that's the priority, I'd go with that...
The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke fro...
July 20th 2016I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs)....
The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke fro...
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With something that sounds pretty minor like that, yes I will usually. It's just the character of the piece...
Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit
July 6th 2016I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast was immediately noticeable. As s...
Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit
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I wouldn't worry about that clash, no. The cream might be a little bright, but on a sunny day with a white shirt I'd imagine it could look great...
Suit style 3: The double breasted
June 27th 2016This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the double-breasted ja...
Suit style 3: The double breasted
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Never a single really, it's a cheap RTW thing unless you're really into Ivy. None can be nice but doesn't work well on most people and nicest with things like black tie. I'd always go for two...
Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit
June 23rd 2016I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the chest, perfect on the shoulde...
Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit
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I wouldn't think that would be a good idea, no. You want some difference in texture or pattern - applies to pretty much all identical materials...
Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit
June 1st 2016Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting. Regular readers wil...
Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit
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Ah, I see. No, don't worry about that Michael...
Suit style 2: The single breasted
May 27th 2016This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many buttons should I have on a single-bre...
Suit style 2: The single breasted
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It's a style thing Jawahar, I wouldn't think about it in practical terms - so many things on a jacket are not practical. As a style, it makes the jacket a little shorter and boxier, gives it a roundness and makes it a li...
The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner
May 11th 2016Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms under the shop on Savile Row...
The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner
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Yeah, I understand that but with most of the houses that are absorbed by other houses, they don't take on anything other than the patterns and the client book....
Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume
May 9th 2016Bryan Manning (above) is a cutter who trained at Kilgour French & Stanbury, before running his own workshop in various forms for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of his career, however, is the costume work h...
Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume
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That sounds interesting, where can I find it?...
Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...
April 29th 2016This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the difference between bespoke, MT...
Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...
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I certainly think so Chris, yes, it's your style. I would personally go for some less unusual things, at least to start with. Eg a nice tailored overcoat rather than a suit...
Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring
April 25th 2016Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatmakers and trouser makers. ...
I work in an office
April 1st 2016A reader commented to me recently that one of the things he likes about Permanent Style is the fact I work in an office, just like him. It hadn’t really occurred to me before, but the fact that I work in a modern, professional office every d...
I work in an office
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Ah, Pitti... this is exactly the reason why I prefer British fashion over Italian. Don't get me wrong, I can appreciate their style and creativity, but if your source of inspiration is let's say James Bond instead of Pit...
Which house style suits your body shape?
March 7th 2016So, how shall we tackle this one then? Look at house styles in turn, or body shapes? I suggest we should look at each major house style, and consider the effects that each has on the body – accentuating one aspect, minimising another. It...
Which house style suits your body shape?
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Which Savile Row house did Ralph Lauren take inspiration from for the Purple Label suits of the mid 90s as made by Chester Barrie? I have heard A&S, but that doesn't seem quite right. And is Ralph himself known to pa...
Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb &...
February 24th 2016Air force blue is a beautiful colour. Better than the bright, tonic blues that are so popular these days – so much deeper, so much more subtle. Also known as RAF blue, the colour refers to the uniforms issued to the Royal Air Force when...
Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb &...
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thanks Simon, waistcoat abandoned...
