Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes
While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city.
This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a first pair of bespoke shoes: what the process is like, what you should think about in advance, and (importantly for the obsessives out there) what you shouldn't worry about.
Tommaso is a great spokesperson for the craft, freely admitting what he doesn't know and talking openly about the different types of customer. It's worth a watch for both the general advice and for his specific tips.
As with all videos we've produced, this covers an area that particularly benefits from being shown on film. And it's lengthy, intended to cover every aspect of the process, with questions and clarifications from me throughout.
You can see a review of bespoke shoes made for me by Stefano Bemer here.
And other videos in this series include:
- How to look after tailoring
- How polish shoes part 1 and part 2
- How to fold a handkerchief
- How to look after suede jackets
- How to look after good shoes
Thank you to Tommaso and everyone at Stefano Bemer for their time and help.
What to learn more about how Permanent Style is funded? Details here: 'Is this an ad?'
To avoid the impression this is a paid for add of SB you could list some othe bespoke shoemaker in Firenze: e.g. https://saskiascarpesumisura.com/
Hi Marcus.
Sure, nice idea. I can also link to ones I’ve covered in the past.
In the name of clarity, by the way, when we do these videos the brands do pay the cost of the film crew, but no extra fee and they have no control over the content. I also deliberately make them as general as possible – so it’s about shoe commissioning and measuring in general as much as possible, rather than just about how great Stefano Bemer are.
Thanks again for the suggestion.
Disclosure: I trust in your integrity!
Thanks Marcus
Simon,
It great to have integrity and it’s dedinitely lacking elsewhere.
However, I have it on authority from good local sources that you have charged artisans like Salva in Naples c €400 to write a piece on his strides. This is well discussed by bespoke clients in the market…
Hi.
Thanks.
This was raised at the time and I clarified it then. Salva and two other artisans paid the travel expenses for that trip. But there was no guarantee of positive coverage. Indeed, Salva better than anyone is an example of how you can’t guarantee positive coverage on this site.
Thanks Simon. I recently bought a pair of high-end RTW oxfords (EG). They have been starting to slightly hurt the top of my foot after wearing for a couple days in a row. Is this me lacing too tight, shoes breaking in or them just not fitting!
It’s hard to tell on the fit, but a few things you should be doing:
– Wear them only 3-4 hours the first 2 or 3 times, to let them wear in.
– Don’t wear every day! They need to dry out, as any leather shoe would.
– Put a little shoe cream across the areas where the shoe is bending. That might help
– Use shoe trees
More info in this video we did last year.
Great advice, thanks
I’ve just skimmed thru this, and will watch later (probably several times ), but would add that you need to make a lot more videos .
Ideas for videos ;
Being measured for a suit/shirt/ trousers etc ,and explaining what and how measuring is done .
Yes others have done this but I doubt anyone has been measured as much as you .
As to questions of you being ‘sponsored’ / subtle advertising etc . I’ve followed this blog for several years and would say there is nothing else like this .
You’re as impartial as folk are gonna get .
If some folk are suspicious of this blog then they ain’t seen what others , particularly the American bloggers , are getting up to !
Having said that in order to keep standards at PS high we will continue to question and comment when your impartiality un/consciously slips!
Thanks Robin, please do.
And thanks on the videos. We actually have ones coming up on being measured for a suit and having a shirt fitted, so we will build these out.
Any more suggestions welcome.
Simon
What to look for in RTW would be really useful. Even just picking up a jacket and showing how you feel for a floating lining, or looking at a piece of knitwear and showing the threads etc.
Nice idea, yes
I very much second this suggestion .
Are Stefano Bemer still available anywhere in London?
No, but they do do trunk shows.
Simon, thank you for doing this video that explained so well the bespoke process. I was very impressed that Tommaso said he wanted a customer to first look at the ready to wear line because the quality was basically the same as bespoke and much less expensive. The bulk of my shoe wardrobe consists of John Lobb and Bontoni, but Stefano Bemer just became a shoemaker to consider.
Simon
As we are on the foot currently – what is your sock game? Still on bresciani and the odd bit of william abraham?
Yes, mostly Bresciani and others from Mes Chaussettes Rouges. They’re very reliable
Hi Simon, great to see Stafano Bemer featured. A favourite since your first pair. I used to work in media, might I, respectfully, raise some points: it’s best to sit on the (viewers) left with guest on the right – you anchor the space – the eyes then naturally move to the right for response. Think Parkinson and Graham Norton. Also in your Q&A responses you say O.K. in excess of 20 times, in a long form interview it stands out. You don’t need to agree – accept the response or counter but nothing else is required. Relax – you look good, sound good and have presence. Content is already good but to raise the bar more cut-aways could be used with v/o (voice over) used over the pictures. This would reduce the static element of the shoot (i.e. make it more visually dynamic) whilst illustrating and highlighting the content being discussed. For example getting measured: this could have been more descriptive but better communicated with the measurement activity being more developed. Alternatively this rule could be applied to any other are that you might wish to develop. As an example some of the RTW shoes being discussed could have been more fully featured or examined. The sound though good was a little too ‘live’ due to the many flat surfaces which bounced the sound. If doing something similar consider placing a neutral table cloth on the table as a dampener. Lastly it would have been good to see more areas of the workshop and work at hand. As a comparison (with a budget many times larger) the BBC’s Handmade: By Royal Appointment (2016) – ep2 is a worthy watch. Notably, (and brand aside – Lobb) it is the visually descriptive way that the craft story of bespoke shoes is told. Commenter’s ideas for other features seem spot on.
Hi Simon, since adding the ‘other active threads section’ it has become very difficult to leave comments and impossible to search or access menu (not sure if all related). Tried all three on iphone multiple times – no success, tried on kindle success but only after many attempts. Might be a reason why last two articles feature so few comments?
Hi.
Really? That’s worrying, thank you for letting me know. We did have some issues on the day that was released, but it seems to be fine for everyone now.
Would you mind letting me know exactly what’s happening for you? I’d appreciate it.
Many thanks
Simon
Hi Simon,I have the same problem ie cannot access search,menu or add a comment on your site.The only way I have found to add a comment is to press your reply button.
Thanks. I’ve just been told by the developers that there was a bug there and it should now be fixed. Would you mind refreshing the site and trying again?
Simon
The ‘search’ and menu buttons are not working from my IPhone .
Fault still exists I’m afraid .
Hi Simon, I also have the same issue on my Android phone – I cannot access the menu
Hi Max,
Thank you, I’ll look into that now.
Simon
Simon
Do you lift weights? If so what gym gear do you wear?
Regularly but not often. Since I moved offices I’ve started using the free gym and classes.
I wear a mixture of Nike and my running or cycling gear – Rapha merino T-shirts, Tracksmith tops
Would be interesting to have a couple of articles on gym and maintaining body shape. Watch out in the gym. You might not notice it but your shoulders will get stronger and waist a bit tighter after some weights (also much better for your posture than a bicycle!)
Absolutely. That’s actually happened to me a little over the past six months, and I’ve been planning a piece on it.
With bespoke, the immediate issue is normally rounding of the shoulders, and width of the lats.
Thanks. Can you ask a tailor to make room for this? I naturally fluctuate throughout the year
Well, if you fluctuate one way and then the other, no alterations will ever be able to cope for long. There’s only so many times you can do the change and reverse it.
But yes, you can make a little room for this. You just need a little more drape in the back, and a slightly bigger sleeve. It’s the kind of room you’d get anyway with some drape tailors like Anderson & Sheppard, but not with the close-fitting French or Neapolitans.
Honestly, if you are training you ought to tell your tailor.
Only the most determined of gym-goers will see a change in body shape to the degree that a properly fitting bespoke suit ceases to fit. Putting on weight is a much bigger risk to fit overall.
Ive found it depends on the degree in either respect. Gaining weight does make more things necessary to change, but they’re also easier things to change
Simon, that’s happened to me as well, but in a different way. I’ve had all my suits and jackets made to measure for the last 25 years. I’ve always lifted weights and exercised during this time, but over the last year or so I dramatically reduced my alcohol intake, along with deserts or anything with sugar. The result has been that my midsection has gotten a bit smaller and now several of my coats look to big in the stomach area, but still fit well in the chest and shoulders. I hope that my alterations tailor can make the necessary adjustments without disturbing the balance of the coat. In your opinion can this be done successfully?
Hi Scott,
Good for you!
Yes, this is usually the easiest area to make changes, as there isn’t the structure in the waist that there is in the shoulders. There’s obviously a limit, but you’re lucky it’s a fairly easy alteration
That’s a relief, thank you! I’ve never been a big drinker or desert eater, but it amazing what small changes in diet can make in the shape of the body over time.
Hi Simon, another good video and very interesting to see the bespoke commissioning process at SB. After trying a couple of ‘top end’ London bespoke shoemakers, I am left cold by the somewhat inconsistent fit of both orders. Both pairs of shoes are fine and wearable (albeit 12 months on I still get a small blister from one of the shoes and a bit of heel movement with another) and overall I enjoyed the commissioning process. However, my experience is that bespoke shoemaking offers far less benefit to fit and scope for ‘style input’ than bespoke tailoring gives me. This may be because tailoring gives so much more leeway for adjustment during and after the making process? Anyway, I have returned to Edward Green RTW, whose materials are just as good and whose lasts fit me just as well (if not better) than the bespoke makers I’ve experienced. I would add that I haven’t tried SB and I don’t want to put anyone off trying a bespoke maker – just relaying my own experiences.
Thanks DE, good to have. And broadly they reflect mine as well – I’d never have RTW tailoring again, but perfectly happy to have RTW shoes.
Hello Simon – is it normal for the leather inside the shoe around the back of the heel area to wear through? This happens on all my leather shoes and I was wondering if this is sign of a less than perfect fit, weird feet, or just normal wear and tear? Does it happen on bespoke shoes? Thank you Rik
Yes it does happen. Different leathers might wear better, but it’s always going to happen. Natural wear and tear I’m afraid
I love Tomasso’s enthusiasm, and his outfit, though was I alone in finding it a little hard to follow exactly what he was trying to say?
BTW, I think I spied you this afternoon pottering around in a shop on Savile Row today. You looked like you were unpacking. I nearly tapped on the window and offered to help.
Ha! Thanks Phil, that would have been appreciated. I was setting up for the pop-up shop, which opens next Tuesday
Simon.
The tie you’re wearing, is it a grenadine grossa by Drakes? I also understand it’s unlined, correct?
Yes, and no it is lined, just untipped
Simon,
Great video, and it certainly brings to life some of the experiences you must have with the wonderful suppliers you write about. As expected, Tommaso comes across as gracious, and someone who would anyone at ease.
Please do more.
A few years back, you introduced us to your “basic” shoe wardrobe.
What has been added since, that you would like to highlight?
And at the time, you were a bit critical of black shoes, as “all you can do with them, is make them shiny”…has this changed? Do you have more black in your collection?
And finally, anything more colourful – purples, or blues?
Nice reminder. If anything I wear even less black now, but just because I wear fewer business suits. And no colour, no. I just sold a navy pair of Lobbs because I found I never wore them.
Over time my shoe wardrobe has actually become rather narrower in terms of colours and textures. The vast majority are plain brown. But I have variation instead in styles that are more subtle – proportion and last shape. Eg an Atienza or Corthay is very angular, an Edward Green is more standard British, and an Alden is chunkier and more casual. But I’d have them all in similar colours, so they go with almost every colour of trouser
Hello Simon,
I will be in New-York in may and intend to buy wide and high instep confortable RTW shoes . Can you suggest some shop/brand/adress ?
Check out Vass at no man walks alone for high instep RTW. Hand sewn soles, too.
Try Carnina. In particular, look for shoes on the Rain last.
Dear Simon
Congratulations on your upcoming pop up and your millionth readership, very well deserved.
Just wanted to know your opinion, which of your suits is the more comfortable to wear, Chittleborough and Morgan or Cifonelli?
Regards
Gohar
Probably Cifonelli, because there is less structure, though both are cut quite close in the chest and sleeve
Thanks for such a warm and engaging video, to both Simon and Tommaso.
Ladt year I have bought a pair of RTW Oxfords from Tommaso online, he was the most caring and easy person to deal with, and as shoes are just great (after extensive break-in period of wearing them at home now and then), I am looking at both another RTW pair and, hopefully, a bespoke a little later. It was great to put Tommaso face on my experience communucating with him via email.
I briefly interacted with Tommaso at the Bemer townhouse space in NYC (they have to buzz you up and it’s a bit intimidating) and he was truly the most polite and kind retail worker I’ve ever encountered. I didn’t buy anything and I was pretty sloppily dressed and probably pretty sweaty but he treated me like family. I spent 5 minutes in a room with him a couple years ago but I was easily able to recognize him and his kindness in this video. Great guy.
Hi Simon,
I visit London quite often and If I were to make a decision for bespoke, where would be the best place in London to begin. I’m inclined to put durability before aesthetics.
Many thanks
Lindsay
It’s a very big question Lindsay – akin to asking for the best restaurant. Are you aware of different styles and what you might like? Or an idea of budget?
Simon,
I should have clarified on my previous question on bespoke shoes when visiting London. My style would be standard British in Brown / Black Derby or Oxford shoes. Price £2000-£5000 bracket in a sturdier and durable Northampton construction rather than a light shoe. I did pay a very brief visit to Gaziano & Girling for example and was quite impressed. Hope I’ve clarified this better.
Many thanks
Lindsay
Ah, I see for bespoke. Well Cleverley will be a little less robust. G&G more, though their normal style might not be as classic English as you want (though they can of course do more than that bespoke) and Lobb will be your style but probably overpriced. I would consider Nicholas Templeman too, who works from home but comes in for appointments. He’s making me a pair at the moment
Simon did you manage to make the active threads list completely visible for all your responses?
The development team are working on it, but a few urgent things have got in the way. Shouldn’t be long hopefully
Hi Simon,
Many thanks for pointing out Nicholas Templeman, worth checking him out.
I also might check out James Taylor in Wigmore Street, maybe more functional than stylish being bespoke orthopaedic shoemakers.
Thanks again
Lindsay
As a regular reader I have been quite heavily influenced over time by your excellent work. Russell at Graham Browne has been making my suits and jackets for some years now (due to reading about him on PS) and Simone Abbarachi makes my shirts (again through PS). Recently I tried private white vc and blackhorse jeans, both excellent.
I’ve yet to shake your hand, and had hoped to meet you at the pop up last year when I went in (excellent by the way). Though my wife may want to berate you for my spending!
Now to my question…I own quite a lot of shoes…over the recent 4 or 5 years mainly G&G and George Cleverley, but want to step up to bespoke. Obviously I am familiar with GC and G&G as options but I wondered if you would recommend any others? Budget is a factor and both GC and G&G are seemingly at the high end..I’ve watched lots of you tubes over recent months and googled a lot…in an ideal world I’d love to find a non west end maker and save a bit of money…so hoped you might point me in a few directions?
In hope of some guidance..
Hey Simon,
I’m so pleased the site has been so useful to you over the years.
To be honest, if you’re looking to save money, you might be better looking at something like an adjusted last from Saint Crispin’s, or the Blue Bespoke from Stefano Bemer. The top end of bespoke is always going to be very expensive, particularly if there’s a chance your first pair won’t be perfect. There is Nicholas Templeman, who I’m.making with at the moment and is very good, but there’s only a very small saving there.
Thanks Simon. I’ll take a look at those you suggest..or perhaps just live with the larger spend!!
Many thanks
I should be in London January 25-31. I was particularly looking at possibly having a pair of shoes, which you recommended and had made, which are suede, yet you recommended them for multiple uses. However, I forgot the name of the shoemaker. I am also looking at having pair made based on a pattern I saw this year while in Italy. Would this information be enough to jog your memory as to which shoes I am thinking about?
If it’s a suede shoe made by an English shoemaker, could you be talking about my Gaziano & Girling loafers?
https://www.permanentstyle.com/?p=52754
Do Vass in Budapest still do proper bespoke shoes?
I heard recent rumours, hopefully unsubstantiated, that Fosters/ Henry Maxwell in London could be in trouble, I sincerely hope not?
Foster closed their new factory unfortunately. I don’t know any more than that currently
The armory is selling off all their Foster stock right now
Yes, so is Skoaktiebolaget. Not good
Really? Do you know why? This is unfortunate news indeed.
I don’t know the ins and outs of it I’m afraid. I can imagine it must have been pretty terrible timing for investing in a factory though.
That’s very sad. I was quite looking forward to trying the new range at some point.
Hopefully it’s not a permanent closure but the above doesn’t sound very auspicious.