Linen, paisley and velvet interiors: de Le Cuona
January 7th 2022I recently followed a thread of interest from shirtmaker Emma Willis, to the slow-woven fabric of her dressing gowns, to the company that produces them, de Le Cuona. It was a fairly speculative journey. I had no idea whether anything I discovered at...
Linen, paisley and velvet interiors: de Le Cuona
Match in comments:
There will be a post on mine next week JH, so you don't have to wait long. But it was a plain cashmere from Budd...
A visit to Molloy & Sons
December 17th 2021Living in a city, it’s easy to become reliant on Google Maps. After all, it will tell you not only where things are, but how to get there, which train is fastest, and the branches of Pret a Manger along on the way. Driving from Belfast to Don...
A visit to Molloy & Sons
Match in comments:
Yes absolutely. They're a shop, not a mill, so they have quite a bit of cloth available...
The Willy Wonka wool room
November 15th 2021OK, so when I wrote last week about how Donegal yarn is spun, I left out the best bit. It was deliberate, as I thought this process deserved a post on its own. When Maureen at Donegal Yarns started our tour of the factory, she said she had taken a ...
The Willy Wonka wool room
Match in comments:
That’s what I figured. But thought I’d ask....
How Donegal yarn is made
November 1st 2021*Donegal Coat update: The first batch is ready and will be shipping out this week. A smaller second batch will go on sale next week. Use the form on the shop page to be added to the waiting list for that if you're interested* Jamie and I travelled t...
How Donegal yarn is made
Match in comments:
Thank you Lindsay. Yes that's a nice idea but, not to always throw a spanner in the works, usually these kinds of points are more nuanced than that. Irish linen is wonderful, but stiffer and more formal than lighter Euro...
Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid
August 25th 2021Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive. As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, houndstooths and herringbones. T...
Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid
Match in comments:
I think it would be better in the lambswool but still quite soft...
Introducing: PS Harris Tweed
April 23rd 2021My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now. Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below ), a fantastic ulster coat from L...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style B...
April 9th 2021Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style B...
Match in comments:
Thanks Simon....
The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo)
September 4th 2020My Cifonelli velvet jacket The cloth that you select for a tuxedo (or black tie) probably won’t get as much thought as the design, the shirt or indeed your bow tie. The options are fairly limited, and all those other things will have a greater ...
The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo)
Match in comments:
No problem, I love that as a tagline for the whole site! 1 - Yes you can, but I wouldn't personally. It could be a bit too foppish and a DB waistcoat is better with morning dress etc. 2 - Yes it should, but again I would...
Introducing: PS Selvedge Chambray
August 24th 2020Back in 2017, Jamie Ferguson and I visited fabric mills in Japan - like Hosoo, in Kyoto (pictured below) , which produces the most extraordinary silks. It was really interesting to see the weaving side of Japanese heritage, and the typically innovat...
Introducing: PS Selvedge Chambray
Match in comments:
Hello Eric Yes we will get a restock of this but likely not until after summer maybe around September....
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
July 24th 2020This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
Match in comments:
Quite a bit I think. Liverano is a little harder, but this works OK I think and particularly in something like a tweed - see my Vittorio Salino jacket for example...
Escorial Tweed is available again
July 20th 2020UPDATE: Please note that the tech sheet for tailors, mentioned below, also includes information on the small shrinkage that sometimes occurs with Escorial. If your tailor is unsure on how this will affect the amount you need, please request this she...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
July 6th 2020One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that you can throw on for a video ph...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
Match in comments:
My thoughts would be: - The dark blue doesn't look that dark - The cut is a little 2000s, high buttoning point and notch - I wouldn't wear the wool with jeans - But, it looks nice in every other respect and a decent pric...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...
March 16th 2020The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to ...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...
Match in comments:
Yes it's a good point Greyson, we can try and do that. We should have more of the cloths in the showroom going forward as well, so that will make it easier...
Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre
February 28th 2020Anyone that has been on or around Savile Row in the past year would have likely come across the force of nature that is Nancy Johnston (above), founder of Tengri, and her yak fibre. Nancy is a social worker, traveller and campaigner, who founded Te...
Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre
Match in comments:
Hi Simon, hope your coat is holding up and keeping you warm this winter. Phong, Khangai yak fabrics is relatively new to the world, so it hasn't been wear-tested for years but I can say all our fabrics are heavily tested...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
January 3rd 2020I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts. Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels and cords. Perhap...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
Match in comments:
Hi Chayut, We have quite comprehensive articles on your first five suits - here for smart ones and here for casual ones. The vast majority of suits cannot be mixed and matched, but see here for an article on the ones tha...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
October 21st 2019This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
Match in comments:
The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
Match in comments:
They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
August 28th 2019Today, the question I get more than any other is: what cloth should I use for a sports jacket? Selecting cloth for a jacket is not easy, at least once you’ve gone beyond the navy blazer. Compared to a navy or grey suit, there's a dizzying ran...
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
Match in comments:
Hi Chancellor, did the pilling stopped after some treatment like drycleaning etc.?...
A guide to high-twist bunches
July 1st 2019This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...
A guide to high-twist bunches
Match in comments:
Thank you for your reply and advice....
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
June 12th 2019Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
Match in comments:
I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
June 10th 2019I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
Match in comments:
The English soft drape is always going to be sharper and smarter than Neapolitan, no matter how soft it is. For something casual I'd generally recommend Neapolitan. You can compare them in our Guide to Tailor Styles...
The guide to synthetic and performance cloth
May 20th 2019[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here] The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowned upon by consumers, and with go...
The guide to synthetic and performance cloth
Match in comments:
I appreciate your response....
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
March 22nd 2019This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
Match in comments:
I do understand. No worries. Thanks again Lindsay...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
March 1st 2019Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because they can seem like a short cut. ...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
Match in comments:
Personally I really don't mind having slightly wrinkled shirts, though I rarely travel with menswear so it never gets all that bad. In the case of linen, I quite like the rumpled and typical look of it. Unfortunately not...
The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit
February 15th 2019The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with the recent popularly of Fox,...
The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit
Match in comments:
I think it has Jonathan, yes, though I haven't spoken to them in a while...
