Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
February 11th 2019They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is noticeably more relaxed: the...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
Match in comments:
Oh good, nice to know thanks George...
Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...
December 28th 2018You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-...
Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...
Match in comments:
I can't to be honest, but they do look pretty similar. I think that would make up nicely...
The guide to overcoating cloths
December 17th 2018When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are not straightforward. As with anyth...
The guide to overcoating cloths
Match in comments:
No, I haven't. My instinct is that I wouldn't like it - but very hard to tell without seeing it in person...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018
October 19th 2018This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendat...
The guide to cashmere and precious fibres
October 1st 2018Luxury fibres like cashmere or vicuna can make lovely, indulgent cloths for sports jackets. Having mostly stuck to linen, tweed or related mixes in recent years, I recently commissioned a jacket in 100% cashmere (from Eduardo de Simone) and it’...
The guide to cashmere and precious fibres
Match in comments:
I don't I'm afraid. I would worry about durability a little too, but obviously it depends how much cashmere is in there too...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Atelier...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Atelier...
Match in comments:
I don't actually Jonas - if you find one let me know...
Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern
August 10th 2018This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke. It will continue to be added to over the next few ...
Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern
Match in comments:
Thank you so much!...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
July 25th 2018Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
Match in comments:
No, the A&S will be better, but that's clear from the price too. And the difference will be mostly in the fineness of the linen, so it depends whether that matters to you...
A guide to linen bunches
June 15th 2018This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...
A guide to linen bunches
Match in comments:
Good morning, summer is almost here!! To my taste, Ariston Napoli makes the beautiest delave linen. Both, color and texture. And only 9 to 10 oz, very practical for warmer climates. They also drape fine....
The Guide to Linen
May 28th 2018Linen has long been a favourite for tailoring intended for hot weather. Its prime appeal is it’s cool to the touch (a lot more than wool, and a little more than cotton) because the fibre is a good conductor. Metal feels cool for the same re...
The Guide to Linen
Match in comments:
They don't come very pale, no, but I don't think you'd want very pale. A light tan, as horn comes in, is likely to be best. Whether you want to change that for mid- or dark brown is probably a case of what you wear it wi...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018
April 16th 2018Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date. ...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018
Match in comments:
It depends a lot on the trouser. With high-twist wools, no. With flannel or tailoring cottons, yes quite a lot...
The Guide to Tweed
April 2nd 2018In many ways, tweed should be the perfect material for a modern man. It is practical, hard wearing, and can be dressed up or down, from almost-formal to definitely-casual. On the formal side, a navy tweed jacket, grey worsted trousers and button-dow...
The Guide to Tweed
Match in comments:
As someone who is outside most of the year in London and immediate hime counties looking at tree's i have found no one size fits the weather. Different days demand different attire. I think there were 33 different types ...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
February 12th 2018*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
Match in comments:
Thanks for clarifying, Simon. I have never had cream trousers and I actually look forward to wearing them and if I find they are not for me than so be it. But then my style development curve is in another phase than your...
The Guide to Flannel
December 18th 2017A couple of years ago, a friend asked me for advice on dressing down his normal suit-and-tie wardrobe. Like many men, he wore suits (in worsted wool) to the office, and jeans or chinos at the weekend. The office was becoming more casual, however, and...
The Guide to Flannel
Match in comments:
I don't know much about the historical types I'm afraid William, nor about the availability today - only that the serge I see varies quite a bit in look and feel, without specifying worsted or woollen, or other things li...
Caccioppoli, cloth merchant of Naples
September 11th 2017Caccioppoli, the Italian cloth merchant, was Jamie’s favourite place to photograph when we visited Naples over the summer. The aesthetic appeal is not immediately obvious. The Caccioppoli building is big, taking up most of the city block and c...
Caccioppoli, cloth merchant of Naples
Match in comments:
Hey, I don't and it's unlikely it would be available anymore, but I think it's very similar to this one?...
The guide to summer jacket cloths
July 24th 2017In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang straight. Jackets are less restricti...
The guide to summer jacket cloths
Match in comments:
Thank you for your prompt response...
Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo
May 31st 2017It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while everyday suits and jackets are ma...
Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo
Match in comments:
I would try to widen the sleeve then if that’s still possible. I had also learned the hard way that my default setting should be “slightly wider” sleeves… I think what you are experiencing as “stiff” is just ...
Japanese craft in Kyoto: Hosoo, Kaikado, Kohchosa...
April 21st 2017When I was in Japan at the end of last year, I was keen to see not just menswear crafts, but traditional crafts in other areas as well. Previous articles on swordmaker Sasuke and kimono maker Motoji attest to some of that, but there were also three ...
Japanese craft in Kyoto: Hosoo, Kaikado, Kohchosa...
Match in comments:
Perhaps what you are thinking of is Meilleur Ouvrier de France which are awards by the Ministry of National Education of the highest levels of craft - it can be for a baker, carpenter, locksmith, stained glass artists, e...
Superfines: The story of refining wool
March 9th 2017Pop-up shop update: Sartoria Formosa are in the shop today, Friday and Saturday. Gennaro Formosa is on site, together with Gianluca Migliarotti – director of the ‘O Mast’ film among other things There was a time when hav...
Superfines: The story of refining wool
Match in comments:
Great read as always Simon....
Fox Brothers vintage cloth – available in t...
March 3rd 2017Shop update: Sartoria Solito and Luca Avitabile shirts will be in the shop today and tomorrow for a trunk show. They're pretty full already, but if you want to try and make an appointment, please contact [email protected] or luigisolito@yaho...
Fox Brothers vintage cloth – available in t...
Match in comments:
No, not at all Nick. Often the opposite - vintage clothes were often woven more densely and so are stronger. Not always of course though, and I'm sure there are more delicate cloths that won't age as well...
The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite
January 27th 2017Someone asked me the other day when I'm going to run out of things to write about. To be honest I have yet to have that problem - there's usually too much rather than too little. But as one writes more (1612 posts and counting) it's nice to work on...
The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite
Match in comments:
Good question. It will appear as a main post as well. The microsite is more a grouping of relevant posts - and an easy place to link to for references...
The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs
January 23rd 2017The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats. When we describe the benefits of ga...
The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs
Match in comments:
Good question. I don't think it's a regular pattern Craig - it's none of those precisely. Unfortunately there are more things a loom can do with pattern than there are names for...
The A-Z of cloth
November 11th 2016As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and finishing. This took a lot of wor...
The A-Z of cloth
Match in comments:
Not really I'm afraid Robin, but I think it's unlikely you'd find anything that was the precise shade and quality. You'd have a better chance of finding something closer among swatches, but do you not want that because i...
The guide to worsted suitings
October 31st 2016Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar. If we leave aside the more aesthetic – and subjective areas – of colour and pattern, we are left with dozens of sim...
The guide to worsted suitings
Match in comments:
Thanks, Simon — that’s great to know. I had the same impression when I handled it: really nice body and structure, but with a surprisingly open weave. Sounds like it should be perfect for most of the year then — ap...
The guide to jacketings
October 17th 2016What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit? This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what should a man wear? Why doesn’...
The guide to jacketings
Match in comments:
Hello, I just started a new jacket commission (with Vittorio Salino from Florence) using James Crowther's fabric. I really liked the sample I saw (this cool brown wool, kind of a marled pattern?). Unfortunately I haven't...
