In Naples last week, I was able to have a fitting on the shirt I ordered from Satriano Cinque earlier in the year. As neither Luca nor Gabriella travel to London, this was the only opportunity to get a fitting done – indeed, in the end we had two fittings, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. 

I have high hopes for Satriano Cinque. The make is good, with all the practical handwork in a Neapolitan shirt but fewer of the frills that push up the price of a Kiton shirt, for example. (For more on the background to Satriano, see my post on The Rake here.) I’m hoping that Luca could become my shirtmaker of choice, starting to replace the Turnbull & Assers that currently occupy most of my wardrobe. Once the fit is established, as it should be after these fittings, I can order shirts fairly easily through pictures of potential cloth sent by email, or swatches sent by post. And there’s nothing to compare to the make in England.


The fit shirt is made out of the actual cloth but merely basted at the seams, and with plenty of excess on those seams so that the shirt can be adjusted out as well as in – something that cannot be done on a finished shirt. The collar and cuffs are made from waste cloth. 


The fit was good but the right-hand side had to be picked up a little, the sleeve lengthened a touch and the waist taken in slightly. On the second fitting, the chest was cleaner but still needs a tiny bit of excess taking out of it, and the seat was a little tight. It’s very hard to see this on a photo – much harder than a suit, and that is rarely accurate – but the difference was marked.

The final shirt will now be made up and sent along with the Solito jacket mentioned earlier in the week. More photos then. 
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The Foodie Lawyer

Uh oh. What’s happened to the Rake’s website? Looks good Simon. What’s the price level/minimum order situation?

Thibault

The link to your article on The Rake doesn’t work. The site seems to have changed.

Anonymous

Simon,

Why have you decided to move away from T&A – if you feel comfortable commenting?

Anonymous

Why do you want to replace the T&A shirts. Asking because I’m cinsidering having some shirts made and it would be interesting to hear what you like the least about T&A. The good things are easy to figure out..

Louis

Hi,

I hope you do not mind my asking a specific question here (and I understand if you do not have time to address it). I am 18 or so and no longer growing, so my father has offered me a rough budget of £500 (potentially more, preferably less) to buy a suit that fits perfectly, will last for years without deteriorating, and should make me look well-dressed even in (sometimes) rather grand surroundings. I live in London.

I have come across such options as alterating off-the-peg suits, getting ‘Made to Measure’ (eg Roderick Charles quoted me £550), or Apsley, which claims near-Savile-Row level bespoke service for £400-£1500. I was wondering if you could advise me on which option would give me the best-looking and -fitting suit for the budget, and which purveyors I can trust on value/quality.

Sorry, I know I seem to be asking a lot for a little, but I thought you might be able to point me in the right direction.

PS: I was considering a mid-grey suit with three buttons, but have been told this is very fuddy-duddy. I would not wear navy, but a different blue could work. I would like a versatile suit that could be worn in the evening.

Thanks,

Louis

Anb Jerzees Shirts

All what i can say about T&A shirt,”its just perfect”
measurements , material and quality manufacturing, i like it and ill keep buying from the same.

Regards,
Alvano

Anonymous

Simon,

Is this Merolla, or is this the other half of the once united shirt-maker? Where is the location of this fine shop you’ve written about?

K Allison

I think you should have them complete the shirt without sleeves. It’s a great look!

Anonymous

Any guidance regarding price?

Anonymous

Hey Simon.

I visited Luca on your recommendation a couple weeks ago, and commissioned some stuff. He gave me his name card with his email address (and mobile number) on it. However, I misplaced it, and was wondering if you’d happen to have his email address, and would mind giving it to me?

Thanks a bunch

Anonymous

Thank you.