The third in this series on bespoke shirts, this post looks at the made-to-measure service offered by Segun Adelaja, who owns a boutique in the Prince’s Arcade.
It is obviously not a direct comparison to either Burgos or Satriano Cinque, as it is not bespoke and not cut by hand. However, as the price is £240 for a shirt, it is actually more expensive, reflecting the costs of having a shop in London and the cost savings of not having to travel abroad.
It is also representative of the kind of service offered MTM by many tailors and shops in London and New York, and therefore an everyday alternative for many making the decision over where to have their shirts made.
As with most Italian MTM operations, there is a big range of choices in collar and cuff. I went for a spread collar with a large tie gap. That tie gap led to a greater arch of the tie than either Burgos or Satriano, though it was also aided by a stiffer interlining. If I were to order again I would reduce this; it was noticeably stiff in the conically shaped cuff.
The fit was impressively good for MTM. Little things were off like the balance of front to back, but MTM is never going to be able to correct this. It deserved comparison with both Burgos and Satriano on fit, even though both had direct contact with me and at least two goes at getting it right. That speaks well of Segun, rather than the Italian manufacturer he uses.
With regards to make, the following things were done by hand: the buttons, the buttonholes and the sleevehead (although you can see from the picture that the latter is coming a little loose already). Less than the other two reviewed shirts, therefore, though it was made well overall.
Distinctive aspects of the make are the pleating across the back, which Segun specifically requests and describes as his signature; the red gusset reinforcement; and the red stop-tack by the bottom button. The collar band, though not shown, is wide but narrows conventionally towards the front.
Overall, a very good made-to-measure shirt, if a little expensive. I would change the weight of the collar and cuff lining, as well as the cuff style, in another order. And always go for bespoke if it was easy, as it will be now with Satriano.
Ratings:
