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Hi Mirko, Sorry for not getting back to you. I double checked with a cutter to confirm: generally trousers would be cut with the nap running up the trouser, so if you ran your hand down them, you would be raising the nap - running…
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My congrats.
We all hope that with your advices we see soon the return of the British gentleman.
EA
Great article. I think it would be amazing if one could achieve the best of both worlds, I.e somewhere in the middle. I mean the English cut could be a little stiff but the Neapolitan cut could also be a little too “fashion victim”! (e.g.Kiton cardigan-like jackets)
The thing is, how does one achieve the middle ground?
I’m currently using GB to make an unlined grey suit, I don’t want a completely pad-less shoulder but I do want it sloping with a nice soft roll.
However, Apart from the shoulder, small arm hole etc… there is something else appealing about the Neapolitan style’ the jacket somehow looks like its moving, whereas the english cut looks like its standing still.
How do I get that sportyish look from a tailor like GB?
The copy is never going to be exact – there are too many small details in the cutting. But bespoke Neapolitan might be the halfway house you want. It is different to the Kiton RTW
Congrats on the new perch Simon! I hope you’ll continue to link to your new FT columns?
Absolutely. Though they will be there every month under the Haute Seat section
Congraulations Simon. I read both How to Spend It and your blog avidly, so it comes as no suprise to find the two meeting. I look forward to reading your column very much.
Hi Simon,
Very nice piece and nice selection of tailors. Can we expect an appreciation of some other venerable Napoli tailors/houses, like ex-Kiton’s Luciano Orazio (http://www.laverasartorianapoletana.it/), Isaia (http://www.isaia.it/) or Panico (http://www.sartoriapanico.it/eng-home.html)?
Best of regards,
Mike
Dear Simon , thank you very much for your articles about Napoli bespoke. It is always interesting. I live in Moscow and I am big fun of Napoli su misura. I order bespoke garment in Napoli for about 6 years.
I think very interesting Sarto in Napoli are: sabino, solito, formoza, panico, felice, for pants it is ambrosi and Pasquale Mola, for shirts – Lombardi.
Simon – I think it will be interesting that I find shoes maker in Roma who have been working in three generation for Gatto !!!! They have all skills, models and material from Gatto. His name Antonio mercurio and he is working inside of cavaleria unit in Roma. Timofey, Moscow