Ideally, buying designer clothes should be about design.
Runway shows have a perennial fascination because they showcase (in rapid, often dazzling procession) a series of unique and original designs. They are a flick-book approach to art – glimpses into the mind of a designer with one theme, and perhaps hundreds of preoccupations.
The best designer stores, equally, are fascinating. Glancing through rails, even just taking in the mannequins and their lighting, pose, dress, can be an aesthetic pleasure, akin to any exhibition of design. One walks out the best of them feeling inspired (even if you couldn’t afford anything inside).
But many designer purchases are about three values, only one of which is design. Those other two values are branding and quality.
When making such a purchase, bear in mind which of those three values you are prioritising and why. This will help you decide whether to opt for that designer bag or its high-street equivalent.
The first value, branding, can be dealt with most easily. Everyone succumbs to it to a greater or lesser extent – the desire to belong to that view of life, that aesthetic, to buy into it and possess a part of it. While this is objectively the least rational value, it would be churlish to condemn it. And without it life would be a little duller. Buy into it if you want, but be conscious what you are doing.
Buying something for the quality of its workmanship is far more rational. It will last longer, and look smarter for a greater proportion of that time. In the case of classic men’s clothes such as suits and shoes, that quality will mean something lasts for a decade rather than a year.
Designer clothes will be better made than high-street ones. But the difference may not be as large as you think. Many suits, for instance, are made in the same factories for different brands – one buyer told me that Austin Reed, Aquascutum and Gieves & Hawkes suits are all made in the same factory despite representing high street, designer and tailoring in many people’s minds.
Some of those suits are only super 100s or below, and fused rather than canvassed. Designer doesn’t necessarily mean quality. Research the brand and know what you are buying if you want quality – Mulberry bags, for instance, are designer and they are still made in England and will last a lifetime.
Design has value when it’s unique. So buy designer clothes for their design when you can’t find them anywhere else. As with much in this posting, this has an echo in Winston Chesterfield’s thoughts last week – I would pick out his sunglasses example as something that can easily be copied, and so found on the high street. Buying a designer version seems pointless. You are not buying it for design or for quality. It’s all about value number three: branding.
Other examples of pieces that can easily be copied are belts, hats, ties and socks. You may buy a designer version of this for its superior quality, but not for its design. The pieces that are worth buying for their unique design are those that are complicated: suits, dresses, jackets, shoes. They are unlikely to be copied well.
So, in answer to the question of whether to buy high-street or designer clothes, I say: analyse where the value is. Is it in design, in quality or just in branding? Thinking through those three should make the decision easy.
3 Guest Comments »
Well written and well said. I like the way that you pick up on Winston Chesterfield’s article and at the same type help me to clarity my own thoughts. The original article had struck a chord with me to the extent that I responded. You’ve help me realise that for me its Quality Design Brand in that order. For others it will be different but right for them.
Comment by Andrew Hutchinson — February 26, 2008 #
I like how you identified ‘design’ and even ‘brand’ as something that is valuable to all of us to a greater or lesser extent even if most won’t admit.
Comment by Fritz — February 26, 2008 #
Hmm, I must say that I have bought too many sunglasses on the high street that haven’t lasted. To me, buying designer sunglasses are design, quality then branding. My Marc Jacobs ones has got the best design I have ever seen, I think they will last me forever, but you can’t really tell they are Marc Jacobs, because they don’t have a big awful logo on them!
However, my Mulberry bag is definetly all about quality. (Although, I haven’t treated it quite the way I should have. It does have some stains!) =)
Comment by Victoria — February 26, 2008 #
Btw not all Mulberry bags are made in England. They are also made in Spain, Turkey and even China!
Sarah – could you give us more detail? Are some lines made just in the UK? Does that necessarily denote greater quality?
I know someone who works at Mulberry and can ask, in case you don’t have that information and would like it.
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“Only super 100s or below.”
It is a common misconception that the best fabrics have higher numbers. Give me an 80 or 90 with good hand and durability anyday.
In the world of fashion, we should not be backdated and sunglasses have taken a important place in the field of style and fashion.
Would you still recommend Mulberry’s bags as you dit here in 2008? I’ve read their men’s bagsare now made in Turkey, and not in England anymore.
And by the way, do you think “made in Turkey” is necessarily of lesser quality than “made in England”?
Best regards and thank your for your very informative blog.
They are moving more back to the UK. But no, it doesn’t necessarily make any difference. It just tends to
Very interesting article – love your description of catwalks as a “flick book approach to art”. Very true and often overwhelming with so many opposing looks, materials and patterns. I think that there is a place for both highstreet and designer fashion in our wardrobes. Everyone should treat themselves to a few carefully selected designer pieces that they know they’ll get a lot of use out of and love forever.