Introducing: The suede cap
The hat I wear most when it’s cold is the PS Watch Cap - I have four and wear them constantly during the winter, given my lack of hair means I always need something on top.
But when it’s a little wet I also regularly wear a suede flat cap, because the peak provides better shelter for the face, and because the material is more robust than cashmere. I still occasionally wear a brimmed hat like my fedora from Optimo, but that’s a particular look for me, rather than an everyday one.
These suede caps I wear have popped up regularly on PS over the years - they were from Lock & Co, the Tremelo model. I wore it with the Bridge Coat when we first launched it, and also with the navy Donegal coat when we shot that in Oxford.
But a couple of years ago Lock stopped doing the Tremelo in my favourite dark-brown suede, and so I thought it was a good opportunity to do what we’ve so often done over the years - become a retailer of the product ourselves in order to make it available again.
This is the new hat we’re putting on the shop today. It’s the same model, style and sizing as Lock’s Tremelo, just in the most versatile material for me - a really dark-brown suede.
Why do I find it versatile? Because tweed versions are a little harder to wear - they come with more baggage, whether it’s Last of the Summer Wine or Peaky Blinders. I have a nice one in Fox charcoal wool - probably the easiest tweed one to wear - and it’s still not straightforward. Suede is more deliberate, a conscious choice away from that traditional workman’s staple.
Tweed also absorbs rain more and can get a little soggy, so I find suede better. To be clear, I’m not wearing the suede when it’s raining hard, as I could wear a good fedora; it’s usually when there’s the threat of rain, or perhaps I have an umbrella too: in the same way as I’d wear a water-resistant coat.
Style wise, my favourite thing to wear the cap with is a tailored overcoat, as shown above. This is my double-breasted overcoat from B&Tailor, and I think the cap looks particular sharp with tailored coats like this - like it’s sheltering the face in the same way the collar is sheltering the neck.
I wear the cap with my tweed Liverano coat too, but not really with a tweed jacket. Below are a few images of me wearing my caps over the years, so you can see them with different coats. The tobacco suede is also cool, but I find the brown more versatile so we decided to offer that colour first.
The other thing I like about flat caps is that they can have a very different style depending on how they're worn, so I asked photographer Milad Abedi to take a few shots in the way he would wear his (below).
He’s gone for a coat in the same way as me, but a more relaxed, slightly oversized raglan, and more significantly, likes wearing it backwards as well as forwards.
Something Milad and I both have in common, of course, is that we both have beards. But I think a flat cap is quite versatile with different face and head shapes - like most hats it's just a question of proportions, whether bearded or not.
The caps come in four sizes: 56, 58, 60 and 62cm, roughly equivalent to a small, medium, large and extra large. In inches that’s 6⅞, 7⅛, 7⅜ and 7⅝. The peak is six inches.
I have a pretty large head and wear a size 60, a large. In brimmed hats I’m usually a 59 or 60, and in other hats that are sized I’d usually be a large. Milad is the same. The caps do stretch a little bit over time if they need to, I’d say by at least a centimetre - but only if they are tight and have to.
The cap is meant to sit halfway down the back of the head, and the peak be just above the level of the eyebrows at the front. But just like a felt hat, there is a fair amount of style in how you wear it - flat brimmed or more curved, level or at an angle. Personally I like a lot of curve (like my baseball caps) but set level. Milad prefers more of an angle.
In terms of care, the suede doesn’t necessarily need a waterproofing spray, but if you’re likely to wear it in the rain a lot, it is a good idea.
Like all suede, it benefits from being brushed occasionally, to remove dirt and bring up the nap. That’s particularly beneficial when the hat has been rained on. When wet, don’t place the cap on a radiator or another heat source, as that could make it shrink. If the hat does shrink, a hat jack is effective at stretching it.
The suede cap is available now on the PS Shop. If anyone has any questions - on this cap or on caps in general, please do let me know.
Below, some more old shots of me in mine. Happy to link to any of those articles if people would like.
Photography of Milad: André Garcia @andregarciaw









































A great addition to the PS store.
Wearing this with tailoring would you ever wear it with black shoes, or brown only? I think I said in a comment on an old article I have a navy wool felt cap, but it’s more of an Ascot cap really – I like it but something about the hardness of it makes it feel wrong to wear without an overcoat and I’ve been looking for something to replace it to wear to work. I had been considering a grey & black herringbone or a black corduroy. I know you said a black cord still has some farmer-y connotations, but I live in a location that’s more rural than London so that might be OK if this isn’t good with black shoes (if I can actually find a black cord one now Cordings have stopped!)
Hey Aaron, yes I’d definitely wear it with black shoes – it’s a cold, muted brown just like I like, so I’d wear it with black shoes just like I’d wear a brown cashmere rugby or brown cords in this colour with black shoes
Beautiful hat, Simon!
I mainly wear knitwear (lambswool), denim/chinos and an overcoat in the winter fall. Would the hat be too formal for that, even in suede? I don’t really wear sport coats or dress trousers…
No I don’t think it would be too formal Dan. It will be a little better with slightly smarter versions of those – eg dark denim rather than mid-blue – but will certainly work
Eh.. another temptation that’s 3 sizes too small…
What size is your head Martin?
What size is your head Martins?
66 if I recall. Maybe you remember me trying on your watch cap and it being HOPELESSLY small?
66, blimey that really is at the end of the range! Sorry Martins
Interesting is that unless I shell out for a full bespoke, there is no hats in my size that isn’t knitted. Thankfully I don’t need a hat, all I need is to keep my ears warm even in -25* but still…
And spending >1k for something I’m not too sure I’ll end up actually wearing is not really something I’m willing to do.
I’m impressed, at an event at Lock & co they could only find one hat that fitted me at 65. Wife laughed, I reminded her she wanted kids.
The US caters for our skull size much better
Thanks Bob. Interestingly, most of the hats have sold so far and the least popular size is the XL. So for this audience at least we are skewing the sizes correctly. Maybe we could just do one or two in a larger size
Thank you so much for this Simon. I’ve been looking for a suede cap like this for so long now. They seem impossible to get. I’ve plagued Lock & Co down the years in the hope that they would bring back the “tremelo” but sadly to no avail. I do hope they stretch a little? My usual size is 57cm, so I’ve opted for the 56 which I fear might be a little tight.
They stretch a little bit, about 1cm or so, through wear. But if in doubt I would go for the size up personally as you don’t want it to be too tight, but a touch loose is fine
Hi Simon,
Do you think it would be possible to sew some small pleats if in between sizes?
This indeed performed by a saleswoman on a Stetson cap I bought years ago and it did fine ever since. This option was also recommended by another saleswoman at a very nice hat shop in Paris for a panama hat.
Best
Romain
Interesting. I can see it working on a wool or maybe cotton, but I would think it would be hard on suede like this, and very hard on a panama – if you fold that material back for a pleat I would have thought it would be likely to crack?
Hi Simon,
in fact, the pleats were done (or recommended to be done for the Panama) at the level of the cotton lining inside. The part which is directly in contact with the skin and that circles the head. So not directly on the main fabric of the cap/hat.
I hope that’s more clear.
Ah, I see, yes that makes much more sense!
I can see that would tighten the inside quite effectively, though I’m not sure you could do it too much without the inner and outer starting to look a little out of proportion.
Figured a picture would best illustrate.
Thank you Romain, that helps even more. With multiple pleats like that I can see how that could be rather effective
Hi Simon,
I just took delivery of my new tremelo hat.
I just wanted to come back briefly to say that the hat is just beautiful – a lovely soft butter like texture in a versatile colour. And the advice you gave on sizing-up was spot on. The 58″ fits me perfectly. Thank you so much..!
Fantastic! Thanks for letting me know Joe, I hope it gives you many years of joy
Looks wonderful. Just ordered one. Thinks it will be great with my Bridge Coat and light grey Donegal. Maybe too formal for my Wax Walker.
Very tempted, particularly as you have it in 62, thank you for considering this size. Have you tried it with a dark brown or navy Valstarino, or is this too much? I remember there having been a discussion about these jackets and brown suede shoes, and it seemed as though it wasn’t a bad match, but perhaps not for caps.
Hi Simon – This is great. I did get the Lock Tremelo in navy suede a couple of years again, but only because they no longer carried the brown. Can I just ask – Have you used the same maker as Lock did, and is the suede weight/quality the same too? Thanks – Barry
Thanks Barry. Yes and yes
Fabulous! Now ordered – that’s my Boxing Day walk covered……thanks
Hi Simon. I think you mentioned that you were doing new sizing on the watch cap. Did that already happen? Or still to come?
That’s already happened Paul, yes. The current hats are all 2cm wider at the hem, so 4cm bigger in the circumference
Who is the designer of the brown topcoat you are wearing along with the grey cap? That is an appealing fabric. Thanks.
That’s Casentino fabric. The coat is an old one that Rubinacci did – we covered it here
Thank you.
Beautiful! Will the hats be available to try on anywhere?
No, sorry Peter, products are only generally available to try on during our pop-ups. But Lock & Co still stock the model in other materials, so you can try it there
Hi Simon. I have a hat in size 57 that’s stated to be 7 1/8, and then a size 58 (by Optimo) which is stated to be 7 1/4. Those don’t match how you’ve listed them–you have 1/8 inch higher for each of the centimetre sizes. Does your sizing maybe need a correction? And I assume the cm sizing is the more accurate one for you? Thanks.
That will be US sizing. For some reason the UK has always used the conversion you see on the chart, whereas the US is a quarter inch larger. It’s one reason I prefer centimetres, yes.
You can see a conversion on the Lock chart here.
Thanks. So it is like shoe sizes—we have a scale that looks identical in North America, but all our sizes are labelled a little larger.
Well perhaps, yes, although it’s odd that the exact same centimetre size is then translated into inches differently in different places. It’s also such a small difference
jeez where is his raglan from!?!?
Berg & Berg
Apologies for being a little off topic but if Milad stumbles upon this and can share any details on the raglan coat, that would make my day!
No worries NL – see comment above
Milad’s Berg & Berg houndstooth raglan overcoat featured above is being offered in the end of season sale on the B&B website. I agree the coat is a great look. Although Milad’s chiseled good looks definitely help the cause. He could make a potato sack look couture.
Hi Simon, do you have any details on Milad’s coat?
It’s from Berg & Berg
They’re a style you either love or hate. There’s rarely any middle ground for this hat/cap style
Hi Simon,
The hat looks great on you and in my opinion a really cool versatile piece. Unfortunately hats don’t generally suit me and or I feel a little uncomfortable in them. Except for a beanie or for practical purposes a baseball cap. Well done on something that looks great. Just one parting point, there should be a law against wearing caps backwards (unless you’re Samuel L Jackson), a bit middle aged dad trying to hard.
All the best.
Thanks Steven, though in general I think rules (or indeed laws) have a habit of being broken and broken effectively. I wouldn’t wear my cap like that, but I think it looks good on Milad
I just noticed Milad was wearing his backwards, my comment was not aimed at him specifically. Apologies if that appeared inferred, it wasn’t. It was general comment.
No worries at all Stephen
My cap of choice for 40+ years has been a Greek fisherman’s cap. A Fedora is too stuffy. Everybody wears a baseball cap or a flat cap. You don’t see a lot of guys wearing a GFCs in the States. I’ve got several: black, brown, blue. I got into the Greek caps back in the 60s. John Lennon wore one. And Jackie Stewart wore one when the other drivers were wearing Goodyear tire caps.
On a slightly different note, could I ask where Manish got his tonic coat,I have seen a few of these in London recently, and anyone my age loves Tonic
Thanks
It’s an old Grenfell x John Simons collab piece. He got it on Marrkt
Thanks Simon
Hi PS team,
Just wondering if the core tailoring / craft coverage has moved to the magazine lately, or if it’ll be back on the site soon?
Best regards,
Ted
Hey Ted,
No, there will always be more of that on the website. There was the piece on flannels recently, the Steven Hitchcock coat not too long ago, and my MTM glen check is coming up soon as well.
Do you have these in your showroom/shop on Harley Street, Simon? Thanks.
Hi Joe,
No we don’t, there’s no stock held here outside events. But Lock & Co do the same model in other materials, so you can always go there and try your size.
Calling in at Lock & Co tomorrow (Cap weather in London today) 4/12
Well, that sold out fast in 58.
Yes I know, I wasn’t expecting that!
Any chance there will be a restock anytime? I had been looking for this on Lock and Co for a long time and I missed it here!
We’re looking into it now Harris
Thanks Simon! Love all your products
Hey Simon,
Have been checking the Lock site for this hat religiously but they had clearly discontinued it so thrilled it’s back with you!
Was just about to get the 58. It’s so popular it’s all gone.
Possibility of returns? And if so does one just keep checking back on this page?
And are you likely to get a restock in the same shade of brown next winter season? Then I can wait in the knowledge this enormous gap can be filled on the next restock.
Thanks
Yash
Hey Yash,
Yes definitely possibility of returns. And yes we’ll likely restock next year given how well it’s gone down
Simon good to hear on likely restock.
How do I look out for returns? Is there a list, does one email Lucas or just keep an eye out here?
Scratch my previous question. Found the answer in your FAQ’s.
Thanks Simon.
I was on a rare visit to London when I first saw your tobacco suede cap in the pages of PS many years ago, and promptly walked into Locks to purchase my own – it’s been my favourite winter hat ever since, despite always wishing it was a darker brown.
So imagine my delight upon reading this piece yesterday, clicking straight into the shop to snaffle one – didn’t even have time, then, to comment! My tobacco cap in 59 has always been a fraction snug, so hopefully the 60 will be just right. Thank you for bringing it back.
Amazing, thanks Nick
I had a Lock and Co suede cap, I think I bought it in 2017 after seeing it on PS. The kid skin suede was beautiful, very fine, but the nap was difficult to keep. It provide very little insulation so I didn’t wear it much in the end. Would be keen to try the PS one if it’s a little warmer. I don’t like wearing tweed caps and have opted for loden now.
No need to publish this, but I’m getting a server error for links to your shop this morning [09:02 5 December]
Thanks Oliver. Is that still the case, and if so does it work if you go there directly? It’s working fine for me
This is a very nice cap. I like that it appears to sit low on the head and is quite sleek, particularly at the sides, where it sits close to the head with not a lot of material spilling over. I tried a baker boy hat from Christies, but unfortunately it was quite traditional and sat high and poked out considerably at the side. The whole effect was quite unflattering and faintly ridiculous, looking far too performative. Like an extra in a period drama, so I shelved the whole idea.
I think we have similar head shapes so this looks like it would be quite flattering and a winter/smarter alternative to a baseball cap. What I can’t quite work out is on the Lock & Co website for the Tremolo it seems to look high and wide on the head, rather than the slim sleek version you have. I can’t put my finger on why it looks so different.
Sorry, not really a question there, just my musings! I guess really I should just try and see what works.
Thanks Jonathan, yes that’s probably best.
Caps were often larger traditionally because it sheltered you more and was a little warmer. But I agree it makes for a more extreme shape
Ciao Simon,
lovely and the tobacco, even more so, so fitting and the patina over time, wonderful no doubt.
One thing Simon – regarding the inner headband.
Would it not be possible to have a simple, good cotton headband with thin velcro that can be removed and washed ? Supply the hat with 3 extras, for example in a dark colour ?
This something that will make the hat last much longer and avoid the dreaded dry cleaners and sweat seeping into the peak etc.
What do you think ?
Grazie.
Hmm, interesting idea JR, thanks. Not sure how comfortable the velcro would be, even on the reverse side, but I like the idea in principle
It is worth a simple experiment Simon, no ?
I am sure your supplier can come up with something elegant, a little prototipo, something originale.
Perhaps velcro must be available in different thickness and so on.
Just a little touch of practicality Simon. Ciao.
If you were to categorise this hat, is it a flat cap, baker boy or newsboy? Thanks
So, it’s less of a flat cap because it is multi-panelled, but as a general description ‘flat cap’ is still generally used to differentiate this from a baseball cap, so I think it’s useful and accurate to use it in that way.
Bakerboy v newsboy is an even finer distinction and perhaps not that useful, but a newsboy is often used to mean one that is larger, more structured, with a bigger peak I believe. In that case, it’s more of a babkerboy
With respect, I disagree with Simon. Lock’s would describe the tremelo as a baker boy and the newboy is a slimmer version. A flat cap has no panels, hence its name.
Simon,
Just a vote for the tan cap when there is a restock.
Best,
Rand
Cheers Rand
Hi Simon, recently you’ve written a few articles on hats. Would you ever consider writing a guide like “if I only had 5 hats,” similar to other articles like shoes, jackets, etc? I think it could be quite useful. cheers
Thanks Sean, yes nice idea.
I always liked your tobacco version, Simon. Unfortunately, Locke has long stopped stocking it. Are you planning to offer that colour in the future?
We might do Noel, though when I looked last time that colour of suede was not available
Hi Simon!
Will it return as MTO or restock, couldn’t reach for my wallet before the size 60 was sold out!
We’re looking now to see how quickly we can get a restock, but yes it will certainly return
Lovely, will spam the product page until then!
Hi Simon,
Beautiful cap! I wear my caps in size 61. What sizing would you advice when the cpas are restocked? And does the dark brown matches with a charcoal overcoat?
Thanks!
Bart
Yes, it goes very well with charcoal.
To be honest, a 60 will stretch a little and should be fine, but 1cm of looseness is also fine and you don’t want a cap to be too tight. I’d go for 62
Hi Simon,
Sadly by the time I’d managed to get to Lock & Co to work out my size, these have sold out. Please restock them as soon as you can, I’d love to get one, as I’m sure many other who missed out also would.
In the meantime, out of interest which of the hats that Lock still stock would you say is the next best for versatility? I’ve been meaning to pick up something for along while and this has spurred me on to finally make a decision this winter.
Thanks in advance.
Hey Tom,
Thanks, we are restocking so should have some more in a couple of months at least.
Of the others on there, perhaps the black wool?
Simon,
Just to reiterate that not only am I very happy with the size 58 that I bought, but as a balding man I would be most interested in more versatile colour options in the same baker-boy cap such as blue or black wool options if that might be a consideration for future offerings? Thanks.
Thanks Joe, that’s good to know and absolutely noted
Hi Simon
would you recommend a flat cap for a large round head (59cm roughly)
I’d say there’s nothing about a head like that that means you shouldn’t wear one. It’s more about overall style
Hello Simon,
Hope all well?
Most of my caps are a size 57 with the exception of one which is a 58. The 58 is a slightly more “comfortable” fit but by no means are the 57’s tight. Maybe a little closer.
For this cap, I need to decide between a 56 and a 58. Your thoughts would be welcome.
Thanks
Yash
If you have a 58 and it works for you then I’d go for that rather than a 56 Yash
Hey Simon, hope all is well,
Just wanted to ask if you plan to restock the caps this year? I know there are some available, but I need a size 60.
Cheers,
CK
hey CK, we will but likely not until Autumn time