This is the first, basted fitting for my Huntsman shooting suit, following up from last week’s post on the cutting of the pattern.

You can see the line of the plus-twos, which are full yet narrow perceptibly to the knee. Adding a little bit more volume here was the only change David (Ward, cutter) marked up on them. They will be fitted with brace buttons and side buckles.


The waistcoat is one part of the shooting suit that, although designed for movement, can be cut a little tight. Once it is up against the body it would only restrain movement if it were any less fitted – David took out some excess here. It will also be shortened at the front as the last button should be in line with the bottom seam of the waistband on the plus-twos behind – it is currently an inch short. The shoulders also include a lot of inlay here – the final line of the waistcoat is marked up with chalk.


Finally, the jacket. A little excess is taken out of the chest, though a balance has to be struck with that movement required in a shooting suit. The collar is picked up a little at the back and the left side of the back also raised a touch. Otherwise all is well.

Notice how much the strong vertical lines accentuate the chest, making it appear bigger and also more rounded. The waist, equally, is highlighted by a horizontal line at that point. The lines on each sleeve were not matched up (you can see my right arm falls slightly lower than the left) and this will be corrected.


Those changes will be made and we’ll have another basted fitting in a couple of weeks. Interestingly David says he commonly has two basted fittings with a new client and rarely a forward. John Hitchcock at Anderson & Sheppard, by contrast, opted for a single forward fitting on my Prince-of-Wales three piece.

Next: The second fitting
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Laurent

It seems as if the vertical stripe which goes over the pocket flap is not entirely matched further down (after the pocket and on both sides). Or is this the angle of the images?

Best, L

James E Harvey-Kelly

Very nice. Is this the same cloth as Nick Foulkes’ Huntsman suit in The Rake? Great minds think alike I suppose.

Anonymous

How is the shape of the chest area formed – by puffing out to the side or to the front? I tend to find the former can make one look a bit ‘Mighty Mouse’ but each to their own, I guess.

F. Bordewijk

Nice suit, not sure why anyone needs a ‘shooting suit’ though. If it’s pure style borrowing, fine. If you’re actually using it for shooting in an attemt to live out faux gentry pursuits, well lets hope you fall on the gun.

Anonymous

That is the most gay suit that I have ever seen.

Anonymous

The checks on your sleeve do not match up with the fronts; that’s a bit surprising

Anonymous

actually withdraw that last comment on the checks, I just realized its a first baste – they would give that slack to adjust the pitch if needed

Shanx

Btw, that’s a phenomenal tie!

Anonymous

I’m following this article with interest and waiting to view its conclusion, not only as i would one day love to entertain the thought of owning a shooting suit for the hell of it, but it is also being cut by David Ward. He has cut my first two excursions into the world of bespoke while at Nortons.
I had heard through the bespoke ether that David had moved on and thank God that he has, as his last employer and pseudo style guru was one of the most arrogant and egotistical individuals one could meet and is sadly part of the ever growing number of individuals who’s qualifications that relate to tailoring are quite comical and all very Ozwald Boateng!

I look forward to my first Huntsman suit and the ever charming Ward, although i don’t think i’ll plum for a pair of plus 2’s just yet….

Hugh

Is tho what you wear down the pub Simon?

Anonymous

What a shocker! I hope you didn’t pay for it.