Magazine covers have come on quite a way haven’t they? Eden isn’t looking at the camera and Winston hasn’t even got his eyes open.
Still, the clothes certainly deserve comment. Anthony Eden’s fastening of both his jacket buttons, for example, and the peak lapels on the single-breasted suit. The former could be a question of cut – jackets were cut for that purpose at one point – but the fit hardly recommends it and I would suggest all modern men stick with the fastening of just one, the waist, button. The peak lapels I find interesting, as mentioned in the previous Tailor & Cutter post, particularly as I’m considering the best cut for a new evening suit, in a navy mohair mix.
All those fond of bow ties should note that Winston Churchill’s has exactly the right amount of shirt space in which to play. See how well it is framed. Then again, his three-button jacket is cut so high that the space would not be that much greater if his jacket were done up.
Finally, as a general point from a man that likes his suits to look lived in, I’m pleased to see that both men’s clothes are characterfully wrinkled. Nothing worse than a suit that looks new.
Eden’s jacket is cut and designed to be fastened both buttons. Note how the last bottom is situated at waist.
What is interesting about Eden’s suits is that he combined a single-breasted peak-lapel jacket with a double-breasted waistcoat. The idea appears to be the introduction of a greater level of formality into the 3-piece single-breasted suit.
Eden would also wear a single-breasted linen waistcoat w/ lapels in summer.
With many people, it is easy to find out the identity of their tailor — Peck at Huntsmann, Astaire at Andersons, etc. It is more difficult with Eden.
I think Eden used Johns and Pegg, one of the firms bought up by Davies and Son. But I may be wrong about that.