Printed (50oz royal twill)As more men wear ties to work again, it is important to understand the small but important differences between the textures of ties. This is essentially what drives the formality of a tie, and many men when returning to ties will want to keep this formality to a minimum, to compensate for the formality of the tie itself.Most ties are made of a printed or woven silk. A woven silk, as it has more texture, will usually be less formal, though satin is the most formal silk – as it’s the shiniest. Throughout I link to examples from Drake’s, so you can get an idea of the variations.
WovenWoven silk comes in lots of different variations, but the only alternative you really need to be aware of is grenadine, which is a noticeably thicker weave – and itself comes in large and small knots. Then there’s knitted silk, which is a yet chunkier texture. You’ll be most familiar with it in thin, squared-end ties. 
GrenadineMoving away from silk, we have wool, linen and mixes of both with silk. Although the weave may be finer than a knitted silk, for example, any wool or linen tie is more casual than any silk because of its matte texture. The same goes for madder.
Silk and linenWithin these alternative materials, the rule remains though – a silk mix is smarter than a cashmere is smarter than a chunky wool. 
CashmereWhy care about formality? Because if you’re wearing a tie for the first time in a while and want something a little more casual, a knitted silk may be a great idea but wool not smart enough. That will certainly be the case for most client meetings in most industries, for example. As Bruce Boyer has it, “there’s just a touch of sartorial audacity in a silk knitted tie that’s oddly liberating.”Have fun with the world of ties.
This is something I should have paid more attention too when I started building my tie collection. Almost all of my ties are too formal (ie printed or woven silk) for anything other than working at a bank in 2001, or weddings. I need way more textured ties and squares.
I, too will need to start shopping for more textured ties. I shall start with wool and eventually work my way up to grenadine. Printed and woven silk I have in plenty.
I miss the raw silk’s in the discussion.
Have you ever heard of the new (knitted) tie brand in town, Cravatta Pelliano? Great guys with a different postmodern perspective of making the tie a wardrobe essential again. Check their site cravattepelliano.com.
Simon, thank you for this useful insight; by the way, could you please give some guide lines on the subject “shirt’s collar shape versus type of face”, also which type of collar is more appropriate for a SJ or with a suit?
Simon should the tie width always match the width of. your lapels….or is it alright if they do not match
What is the common width of a notch lapel…about 3 inches,,,or it it a function of how broad or small the shoulders are
Many thanks
They don’t have to match, no. It’s a nice thing to bear in mind, but the same tie width will work with lots of lapels.
Lapels tend to be 3-4 inches, and a stronger role to think about is that the lapel should sit around halfway between neck and shoulder. Again, it doesn’t have to, but when it doesn’t it’s for style
Simon,
Do you have any general guidelines for matching tie and lapel width? Surely the proportions aren’t completely unrelated. Within a half-inch of each other?
No you’re right, they should be considered together. I would hesitate to put a rule on it, because lapel width will vary more with the size of the man and tie width will do so less. But generally best to keep them in proportion – unless you want a more striking look, eg Michael Browne wears a skinny tie with big lapels
Hi Simon,
With regards to your recent visit to Drake’s for your MTO tie, is there more choice for MTO ties in their Haberdasher Street location than on their online store?
Cheers, Marco.
No, there’s actually slightly more in the Clifford Street store at the moment, as they have some cloths that aren’t online yet. The MTO isn’t available through Haberdasher St
Hi Simon,
Anywhere you would recommend for a slightly wider knitted tie ? (And what width you would recommend?)
Thanks!
S
Not especially to be honest, it’s something I struggle with sometimes. Tie Your Tie used to do them, but it was fleeting. Just part of a season’s collection.
I’d like 7cm I think, but most are 6cm.
Thanks! I’ve found a few on The Rake that are 7cms from Serà Fine Silk and Fumagalli 1891. A 6.5cm pointy end one from Cifonelli. And some from described as “large” from Vestrucci.
But none that seem “perfect”, or that seem to have a consistent offer in classic colours. Maybe an idea from a new PS product, the “perfect knitted tie” ?
Yes those are the zig-zag ones (Sera Fine) which I don’t like as much. Not as thick, crunchy or casual
Makes senses!
Hi Simon. Just a question about knitted silk ties. They can be worn for all seasons? From a navy hopsack jacket and linen trousers outfit in summer/spring, or with a tweed jacket and flannel trousers in fall/winter?
Yes, absolutely
Hi Simon.
I’m looking to get some new ties to go with PS and Drake’s oxford shirts.
Which ties go best with them? I’ve been looking at silk, ancient Madder silk, knitted silk, grenadine, wool and cashmere.
Would any of these be a no-no? Do any stand out as working particularly well with Oxfords?
Thanks for your advice.
Generally you’ll want a more casual tie, so I would look to knitted silk and wool or cashmere first
Thanks Simon.
Hi Simon. Is a silk regimental stripe tie somewhat casual enough as well?
Could this work as an outfit: grey flannel suit, PS Oxford shirt, regimental stripe tie
Yes, with a flannel suit like that, it would be nice.
It’s always hard to give just recommendations on things like shirts and ties, as it depends so much on what else is in the outfit. You end up ruling out only the most extreme examples.
Hi Simon, I hope you see this despite the article’s age: What would be some of your most important guidelines for shinier silk ties?
I have a few very beautiful vintage jacquard ties in my collection, but some of them have a good bit of shine (usually mixed interchangeably with matte fabric as well) and I’m never sure how to make the best of wearing them. Many thanks!
Hi Pedro,
Of course, don’t worry all article’s get covered and are still active. I see all new comments in a feed.
Shinier jacquard ties like that can be hard. I’d say you’re probably best wearing them with more formal tailoring elsewhere, eg a navy or grey suit, white or blue shirt, and dark shoes. If you want the tie to stand out less, perhaps a striped shirt underneath would help