Anna Matuozzo shirt

Zampa di Gallina (‘chicken feet’) is a menswear site set up recently specialising in Neapolitan makers. At least one of them has a connection to Naples, so it’s nice to have slightly more local retail, particularly for those of us buying in Europe. 

The brands on offer range considerably in price and make, and are something of a mixed bag. 

The most eye-catching is the ready-to-wear shirts from Anna Matuozzo (above). A well-known bespoke shirtmaker who has previously eschewed RTW, Anna is now offering these shirts to the same quality as bespoke, except of course for the bespoke fit. Each is made to order, and takes around a month to make. 

The level of work is very good: all the functional handwork you’d expect (hand-attached collars, sleeves etc) plus showy details like pick stitching around the collar band and shoulder seams. However, other work you might expect for the price (€280) is missing, such as a hand-worked side seam and bottom edge. It is of course also RTW, so no bespoke fit.

There are also two cheaper lines of RTW shirts, Sentiero and Avino, with just the functional handwork. (Confusingly, Avino is different from my bespoke maker, D’Avino.) Avino also does different levels of make, and this is the lower end – as you’d expect for €140. Some, such as those stocked at Brio in Beijing, are a magnificent make, with more of those hand details than Matuozzo.

EG Cappelli tie

The ties are EG Cappelli and Calabrese. I like Cappelli ties, even if they do have a tendency to be over-pressed. It is also a shame that the seven-fold construction, though nicely done, does not extend all the way up the tie. It is the way most seven folds are done, with only three folds above the keeper, but I prefer a true seven fold in that respect. Thick in the knot, flyaway in the blades.

There are Talarico umbrellas, which we all know, and the Omega gloves are nicely made. I can’t recommend the Calabrese handkerchiefs (below) from what I’ve seen, however. Most are digitally printed and as a result don’t have enough penetration of the silk; they are also too small for a silk or silk/wool hank (33cm). 

I don’t often do breakdowns of online stores, but hopefully this is a useful guide to a new entrant. 

Calabrese handkerchief