The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & Lange

Wednesday, June 29th 2016
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Allan Baudoin sagans loafer

I promised on my original post that I would tell readers when these loafers were available to buy, and they now are. 

The site www.baudoinandlange.com is up and running and you can now purchase, rather than just pre-order. 

Allan Baudoin workshop

I thought I'd also use the opportunity to give a few more details about how Allan Baudoin and his team are making these Belgian loafers, in their studio in East London (above). 

The team comprises: Kasim, pictured further below, who does all the lasting; a closer, Efi; a pattern maker who comes in when new patterns are required, Nik; and Allan himself, also pictured, who does all the clicking and finishing.

Allan Baudoin sagan clicking loafer upper

They work in a studio that's part of Allan's house in Dalston Junction - a loft-like warehouse conversion with nice high ceilings and big windows. 

Having your studio actually part of your house is rarely a good idea, however, and they plan to move to a new location in the Haggerston area that could combine an office, workshop and showroom. 

The first stage for a new pair is cutting (clicking) the leather for the uppers and the binding (shown above). The closer then stitches the upper together and folds the binding over the edges, with a hammer. And these finished uppers are hand-lasted with nails around the last and insole (shown below).

hand lasting sagan loafer

Lasting by hand is rarely done outside bespoke shoes, but Allan finds it helps to control the lambskin, given its softness. Also, to be fair, the team are currently using a lot of techniques taken from bespoke shoes, as this was where Allan came from. Once there is greater volume, some of the unimportant ones might change. 

That insole that the upper is lasted with is another thing that makes these Belgians unique - it is a padded section in the insole itself, rather than an extra insert.

Allan Baudoin

Next, the soles are cut in a workshop next door (with press knives) and trimmed. Once they're on, Allan colours, waxes and finishes the sole before hammering the 'three dot' logo on the back of the heel (above).

Then Kasim puts on the heels, and Allan cuts the insole from skins and inserts them. 

cutting sole leather

It's a pretty simple process, reflecting the simplicity of the shoe. But as outlined in my first piece, it is the materials (and small bespoke elements) that elevate them above any regular Belgian slip-on.

The shoes are available in six sizes currently, in stock, priced at £255. There are also several options on there for made to order, though there are also dozens of other possibilities for those that want a particularly unusual pair.    

belgian loafer

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Jeffrey Lebowski

Very nice Simon. I was wondering whether you know if the Edward Green factory sale is coming to London soon?

Regards,

Jeff

Nathan

Hi Simon ! Thank you for the blog. Sorry but my question is not linked to the subject. I’ve recentely thrifted some mint A&S navy worsted trousers. Would you have an idea of the kinf of jacket i could wear with them ? Thank you ! have a nice day.

Adam Jones

With such a light construction and thin sole do you end up with any discomfort later in the day. I am looking at getting a pair for the summer and holidays etc but worried walking around all day in the less than perfect streets of some European countries I maybe in agony at the end of the day. As you wore them round Pitti that should have been a good road test for that sort of thing.

Hazwan

What would you recommend wearing for walking around a whole day? Rubber soles? trainers? I’d like to look smart but comfortable as well

Pwooste

Lovely shoes.Like Simon I would’ nt wear them all day they are best suited to indoor wear or a brief excursion outside.On holiday, a pair of thin creped soled desert boots with cotton trousers are very comfortable to wear all day.

Michael

Coming back to my question for a comparison with La Portegna Slippers, which you so kindly answered in the last thread, would that be a difference – the time you can walk in these shoes? Or same thing/problem? The reason I ask: I have never had any slippers so far, but being in Italy at the moment is to much to bear with my normal shoes. But I am stuck with Boatshoes from Sebago in Blue and Timberland in Brown. Especially the latter is still, for me, way to hot and both reduce the formality in my outfit considerably, no ties, soft jacket (if at all) – which is ok for the heat but makes me feel slightly underdressed. Still I need a shoe for walking to work (40 minutes) and maybe also a day of sightseeing. I am looking in the wrong direction? Great many thanks – not only for this entry.
P.S. If you’d encouraged, however, this line of thinking, would La Portegna Tan and Sagan grey-blue be a versatile combination in your view?

Michael

Thank you! So a Loafer is something different to a Mocassin? Takes long, but I am getting there. Any recommendations as for these?

rob

when it comes to hot weather moccs with all-day comfort I’m going to go against the vein and recommend Geox. They’re cool, comfortable and quite stylish. Cool because the soles are vented, comfortable because they’re a relaxed fit with go-anywhere rubber soles and stylish because they come in a variety of colours and options at quite cheap prices.

Sebastian

Hi Simon
I’m about to commission my first bespoke garment; a double breasted tweed jacket. Firstly what do you think of this choice as I’ve never seen anyone wear a double breasted tweed before? Secondly, do you recommend any tailors that you think will a particularly good job of this

The World of Shoes

Beautiful loafers! Good to know that they are available now. We have certainly been waiting for them as well.

Greg

Hi Simon. Do you know if a request can be made to have these hand welted, So they may be reapired in the future? Or do you think it unnecessary(the upper wont last as long) ?

Anonymous

I already ordered and waiting for gettin it

Dimitrios

Simon, I love these shoes and am about to place an order. I wanted to thank you for continuing to support, and bring these new designers to those of us who – putting it mildly – would never come across them. You’re a great supporter of craftsmanship. Have a lovely evening , D

Andrew Walker

An interesting prospect – wishing them all the best. What colour would you consider to be most versatile with a grey and/or navy pallete?
Many thanks,

M

Hey Simon,
Between these and Berluti’s Lorenzo model (also unlined, kangaroo skin), what do you think is a better choice? I am usually not a huge fan of Berluti as I find it to be less good value for money than their English peers (plus most designs are a bit too much) but I think the Lorenzo model could be nice for summer and has that lightweight Italian flair. That being said it is 3.5x more expensive so I feel like it is worse value for money than the B&L (for a similar usage) if I had to guess? Would love to hear your perspective.
Thanks much,
M

John

Hi Simon,
Don’t you think that the leather strap on the heel anyhow reduces the level of formality of these suede loafers?
Obviously, it’s a tricky place. And many shoemakers, even among the high end ones, who try to avoid it usually end up producing shoes which easily crack up at this very place.
John

Jeff

Just received my loafers and they are lovely! Beautiful finish and fit as well as butter soft and comfortable. Ordering a second pair asap, Thanks Simon!

Anonymous

Just received loafer. First of all guide size is not correct, they too small for me. My friends tell me that I look like sinderella in it)))). May be later it will be better after done wearing

James

I like how on these Belgian loafers they made the decision to omit the traditional bowtie detail. I like Belgians but the bowtie was always a bit too effeminate for my taste.

Luca

Hi Simon, can I ask how the size works for you compared to Edward Green? I wear 11,5 in EG; should I go for 45? Thanks.

Eric

Hi Simon,

I’m about to pull the trigger on these br would like to know how they compare to Edward Green portland in terms of construction, fitting and longevity? Thanks

Anonymous

Simon,

In terms of the quality, how do these compare to the traditional Belgian loafers (Mr. Casual and Henri https://belgianshoes.com/product-category/mens/henri/)?