A friend of mine has been into menswear since he was a teenager. He obsessed over three-piece suits with collared waistcoats, dreamt of visiting Savile Row, and for years sought out second-hand bespoke online.
He briefly worked in menswear, and began to access these kinds of makers. He made the same kinds of mistakes we all do of course - everything too bright, everything too much - but he got to know some of them personally as well, and found a deeper appreciation of the genius of some, the sheer hard work of all.
In the past five years or so, my friend has become more successful professionally. He left menswear, he’s making more money, and he doesn’t yet have the commitment of children. His disposable income is higher and he is deliberately revisiting some of those artisans, in order to buy wonderful, long-lasting things from a very small number of them - always at full price.
He is becoming, I thought recently, a patron.
A patron can be a very rewarding thing to be. You spend the money you have on people you know deserve it, and together create beautiful pieces of craft. You use them every day, and both your experiences are enriched by the value you place on them.
You bring the clothes (or shoes or leather goods) back to be repaired. You make comments on how they’ve worn, and how you have worn them. You talk to the maker - whom you know fairly well at this point - about the world you move in and who else appreciates these things, what others wear and why.
The relationship is interactive, and that is powerful - both financially and creatively.
Financially, it gives the craftsman a consistent income, which is often all he wants - a reliable way to do the thing he loves. Bespoke makers often say that big orders from rich people (Middle Eastern royalty often) are what make them money. But it’s the regular, long-term customer that holds the business together.
And creatively it’s powerful too. Tailors used to be kept on their toes by their knowledgeable clients. Here’s a misquotation from a half-remembered conversation I remember having with John Hitchcock of Anderson & Sheppard (above, left) about 15 years ago:
“Customers used to be so much smarter back then, Simon. They would always be dressed up, really the most elegant men in the world. And there was always this interplay between the customer, our front of house, and us [the cutters].
“The customer would observe a fashion, and make a suggestion during a commission. The salesman would be instinctively conservative of course, but perhaps they’d make an adjustment - certainly they would take it all in. Little changes happened, both to keep up to date and to enrich the house style, to deepen it, all within that little nexus.”
Now I write it down, it doesn’t sound anything like John. But I clearly remember the point he was making: stylish, consistent customers are just as important to a tailor’s style as the people selling it (the ‘front of house’).
The problems these days of course are manifold. People don’t use one tailor, or buy as much, for as long. Style has expanded and fractured. Consumers are less educated about clothing. The idea of the designer (or rather today, a corporate brand) telling you what to wear is the norm. The idea of anything being interactive is alien.
But it's still possible to be a patron. - to support artisans through what you buy and how you interact with their creator.
There’s another reason I was thinking about this recently.
I get regular questions from readers asking how they can get into menswear. The growth of ‘influencers’ and start-up brands has given the impression this is an easy thing to do, or at least very possible.
The vast majority of people who work in menswear do so in a shop, and spend long hours standing on their feet, straightening shirts and folding sweaters. Or they’re online, answering customer service emails. Or they’re in the basement, packing orders and receiving crumpled returns.
Menswear is hard. Many brands fail. The ones that are successful have often been plugging away for years. PS was going for a decade before it started making real money; Aimé Leon Dore is 10 years old, not new; Buck Mason is 11.
If you have a dream, please follow it. But there is also a good alternative - be a patron.
Pursue your professional career and make good money. Use that to buy a house, have a family and so on. Then use your disposable income, whatever it might be, to support makers you like, and establish relationships with them. This is so undervalued, and so powerful.
It’s easier with artisans, but even with brands the chances are you’ll get to know the managers and probably the founders. That’s the great thing about classic menswear - it’s so small.
These days, if you wear the clothes well, chances are you’ll get a following on social media and brands will ask you to appear in their shoots or campaigns as well. There’s always a lack of good people for that.
I know it’s easy for me to say all this. It’s not what I did, and now I can tell everyone else how hard it is. But I mean it about a dream - if you do have one, do follow it. Just remember that it isn’t the only way to be involved in menswear, in a rich and rewarding way.
Being a patron is fantastic - I’ve met many over the years, among which the great, late Edmund Schenecker was a favourite. But you are all patrons right now, as PS readers, given how you interact with clothing.
I'd say value that, and deepen it.
Pictured, from top to bottom: Sr Francesco, Charvet, The Tailors Symposium, Sartoria Melina, Musella Dembech, Philippe Atienza
At least for me, patron means someone spending so much that business would have issues without them. Wouldn’t better term be loyal customer?
Also.. being a patron has some… Issues?
1. What to do when you have enough? I have 5 pieces of your outerwear bought since 2019. (Does that make me a patron? Or a loyal customer?) I have enough. I would like riders raincoat, but it’s expensive for me. So 5 pieces is enough. So I guess I stop being a patron? Or am I supposed to just keep on buying and consuming? I hope I won’t buy another outerwear at least for 5 more years…
2. What about when you like a maker but they don’t do what you want? I have 6 pairs of trousers from yeossal. I’d like 1-2 more. But they don’t do them in a cloth I’d like. 6 pairs is enough so I’m in no rush to buy remaining pairs. So I guess I stop being a patron?
3. What about when you like a maker but they are so expensive that you can’t justify buying more than 1-2 pieces? I love meccariello shoes. Had one pair. Turned out to be wrong size so i sold it. I really can’t justify another pair.
You don’t have to do all these things Martins, doing any of them is still valuable.
While it’s great that you’ve bought five pieces of our outerwear, you certainly don’t have to buy that much. Some people might buy one a year when they’re starting out, but then they naturally slow down. That’s fine, you’re still supporting the brand, even if it’s by something like recommending the brand to others.
If a maker doesn’t do what you want, they of course don’t buy from them. But the point is that you can establish a relationship (much harder when the brand is abroad or only online) and you can politely let them know, once, what you would have liked to buy. That is useful.
And again of course, if something is too expensive for you then you don’t buy it either. But you may do so later in life, you never know.
You can also be a brand ambassador. If someone likes or comments on what you’re wearing, you might try to politely work into the conversation where the piece came from, and why you like the brand, your tailor, etc. Word of mouth can work wonders, and is probably appreciated as much as your purchases are.
Absolutely
MARTINS – You are an individual who is grounded in the “Real World.” Your comments are sound common sense. Both my Wife and I have an appreciation for beautifully crafted clothing and accessories. If you are not already, consider being a “mentor” to younger people who would benefit from your mindset.
All the best,
James & Beth
Great thoughts. Strikes me as a really good example of the concept of Service Dominant Logic (from behavioral economics), which is a core concept of service design:
”Value is cocreated by multiple actors, always including the beneficiary.”
As a consumer of services, what you put in to the exchange greatly influences the resulting value. Being a patron, in the sense you describe, results not just in better end results, but also helps advance the industry as a whole.
Simon,
being a consistent patron is, probably, the best way to educate yourself in the area of classic menswear. So true what you said about the lack of knowledge nowadays. The thirst for knowledge just isn’t there anymore in the West. Unlike much of Asia, where quality and craftsmanship is really valued. thanks for another thought-provoking piece.
Best wishes for the festive season.
Simon that’s a beautiful suit colour John Hitchcock is wearing in the above photograph with you and Richard Anderson. What colour/shade would you descrive this as – light beige, cream, ecru? Out of interest does a large house like Anderson and Sheppard make most of their suits from proprietary fabrics produced solely for them or mostly from such UK firms like Holland and Sherry and Huddersfield or European firms like Scabal, Dormeuil and Loro Piana? Thank you.
It’s a warm grey, sometimes described as stone – basically grey with a little brown in it.
A&S have some great proprietary fabrics, but no most are from those mills. Few houses have enough proprietary ones or vintage ones to make mostly from those
Unfortunate timing given the premise of this article, but I’ve decided to do the complete opposite in 2025 – which is to say I aspire to buy zero new clothes throughout the whole year. This isn’t curmudgeonly or miserly, it’s just I feel I need to remove myself from the act of consumption for a while as well as being something of a challenge to myself to see if I have a will power to achieve it. It’s also going to be interesting to see if I can “merely” read about material objects (clothes, watches etc) without consuming them too.
Good luck!
I need to do this as well. Once I got into better clothing, shoes, watches, wardrobe and intentionally planning my outfits I noticed that I’m WAY different from my peers, coworkers and associates to the point that I’m getting noticed for the wrong reasons. I have too much stuff and not enough time/places to wear them.
Good post Simon, thank you.
I have found this to be a very enjoyable way to dress well. I work from an inventory with my statement pieces all tailored. I find myself looking forward to my tailor’s visits, discussing changes, perhaps an alteration or two. My oldest pieces are now 20 years old but still look great.
I also commit to 5 new pieces each year. Not necessarily tailored, just a few pieces to keep it all fresh and interesting. That works for my budget and my tailor too.
I think a patron is a very good way to look at it. I don’t think I’ve been to a department store in years.
Talking of Patreon ,Simon.
Long form writing accessed via Patreon would interest me. I’ve recently(within the.last year) started using it to access the guitar community as I was tired of the clickbait of YouTube.
I think my average subscription is £3.99 ( I follow 5 people) but I find it increasingly important. Having access to serious musicians free from the YouTube algorithms is stimulating. More and more are complaining of the restrictions both in what can be said and the power of both music publishers and gear suppliers.
In many ways it’s a return to blogging.I think there is an awareness developing of the narrowing of the dreaded algorithms.
I would subscribe to a PS Patreon feed, if only to see you stretching your journalistic legs.
Food for thought perhaps?
Merry Christmas to all involved with PS and especially to our treasured little community. Have a nice break,Simon.
Thanks Peter, I agree, Patreon like this and Substack is I think a return to the virtues of blogging from years ago, just this time with an easier way to monetise it.
We have looked at something similar on PS – I couldn’t write any more, but we could ask for contributions to fund PS. At the moment though, the model we have of advertising and collaboration products works well, and of course restricting the audience by making it paid-for would also restrict the audience for both of those.
If people wish to support PS, I generally encourage them to click on an ad or buy something from the shop
Great Post!
There is not many classic Tailoring Shops out in Colorado, but there is a great store that sells Japanese denim, shirts etc called Berkeley Supply. I dont always spend money there, I am still wearing a jacket I purchased form him 10 years ago. But I think talking to him, what he sees and likes, and what I see and like is always fun.
This is one thing I like about clothing as a “hobby.” I can enjoy it anywhere. I like skiing and fishing etc, but you need the time to do it. Wearing clothes, is just something you do daily. So go to work, work on your career, and look great while doing it!
Zackary,
If you are looking for bespoke in Colorado, check out AJ and Lianna at Machete and Sons (https://denverbespoke.com/).
For RTW, Canoe Club (https://shopcanoeclub.com/) on Pearl Street in Boulder is awesome. It is like Clutch Cafe in London.
Also would recommend Timber Trading Co. as another denim source (https://www.timbertradecompany.com/).
There is also Bespoke Edge, which is more like MTM + (https://bespokeedge.com/).
Anyways, happy to offer more Front Range suggestions if helpful!
Cheers,
Rand
Hi Simon – you mention “genius”. Out of interest, who would you say qualifies as a true genius in this field? Lorenzo, Gaetano? Any others?
Like most industries, mine is full of journeymen. Fewer than 2% of practitioners would qualify as true masters or geniuses in my opinion. I’d be interested to hear how that compares in tailoring.
Interestingly, I saw an interview with a Navy Seal recently who said that contrary to popular opinion, you get a bunch of clock-punchers there who did the bare minimum. Very few make it to Seal Team 6.
Interesting.
I haven’t really ever thought about it to be honest. I will do though. I’d guess you’d geniuses in different ways – eg technically in cutting, and creatively in styling etc
What a pleasure to hear this viewpoint celebrated, Simon. Like so many others, I initially made the same kinds of mistakes your friend made, swept up in the romance, everything too over the top. I am discovering one of the real joys of this journey is finding just a few tailors that I can build a relationship of trust with. For me, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury are an outstanding example. They always seem genuinely thrilled to see me, always remember the details of our conversations and what I already have in my wardrobe and what the needs of my life and workplace demand, even if the conversation was three or four months ago. I find them to be honest, respectful, and kind. They appreciate that as a professor with a limited income, the decisions we make together need to considered and thoughtful. They also know that I value their experience and knowledge, and that much of the joy of our meetings comes from my anticipation of the education I receive as they respond to my endless questions. Not only do they bear themselves as real gentlemen at all times, but they have expended considerable sums and energy towards humanitarian work, which I so admire and respect. And of course, their craft is exceptional. In short: I respect and trust them – trust that over time, together we will build a beautiful, functional, and tasteful wardrobe that I can “age gracefully into”. In turn, I know my patronage is an investment in the continued future of bespoke tailoring. Becoming a patron gives me immense pleasure, equal to receiving the final commission. Thanks for putting this perspective so eloquently into words, Simon. Perfect timing for the season, as we all consider how we may be of mutual benefit to one another in ways that uplifts all our lives.
hi Simon, thank you for this article. I very much agree that being a patron – or loyal customer, or recurring client, or whatever we want to call it – is the best way that most of us who are passionate about craft can ensure that artisans have a future. While I am sure that I am not as big of a customer as some others, I like to think that my 4-5 commissions a year from my tailor, one or two pairs of shoes, and a few shirts I order year in and year out help the makers whom I work with keep going.
John Hitchcock’s statement resonates with me. I don’t visit multiple tailors or shoe makers because I have makers I am happy with and, just as importantly, don’t have the time or energy to manage multiple relationships. I have found that concentrating on a few relationships has helped me to develop very good and deep collaboration with them, and certainly helped with my education.
Merry Christmas!
Andrew
This is so true. I lived in Toronto for a year and had a great relationship with a tailor called Phillip (Phillian’s tailors). He was an old school ‘neighbourhood’ style tailor for the Jamaican community (his mother trained him in Jamaica) who usually did wedding related work. He really enjoyed the back and forth with me and said he viewed my commissions as his creative outlet.
That relationship was probably more rewarding than the pieces themselves. And now that I’m back in New Zealand and only have access to MTM I really miss it.
I might consider myself something of a patron as well. I have had my bespoke tailor since my wedding 13 years ago. Although he is based in my hometown, where I place my orders directly, he also provides his services to several houses in Prague and Brno. I know he dresses some of the biggest names in Czech showbusiness and business circles. However, I remain deeply curious about how he would compare to the renowned names and houses I have read about on Permanent Style and in the books of Mr. Roetzel.
Real nice write up Simon as always. As much I‘d love a career in menswear, maybea a secure career is more for me and it can be a long-time hobby with a lot of passion involved.
Since it really fits: will you be at pitti uomo in january? Is it really not possible to visit the fair without beeing a professional? I will be there, would be lovely to meet you at some point, shake hands and give feedback about the PS Stuff!
Also wish you and your family a blessed christmas and happy holidays
Thank you Amon.
I will be there, though as ever pretty busy with appointments. If you do see me please do say hello!
You can get a ticket these days by saying you’re an influencer or something, but I’m also not sure there’s that much for people to see inside, or what the brands are there for
I’m fortunate that in my 60s I was able to begin visiting London establishing relationships with Darren at Budd, Teemu and William at Lobb and Simon and Daniel at Poole. I’d been able to do that earlier in Portland at Mario’s with Scot and somewhat at Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco and Oxxford in NYC. It is rewarding to have the fittings and the conversations. Also at Swaine, Lock, Taylor, Trumper, D H Harris, Cordings, Farlows, Purdey, Asprey, Globe Trotter, Turnbull & Asser, Ede & Ravenscroft, Smythson, Dunhill, James Smith, Connolly-so much long term heritage unique to London, my favorite place to visit-not to mention drinks at Duke’s and the Connaught while staying at the RAC and the Caledonian, all interesting to be able to have the conversations and get to know. Long retired I don’t add much now but am able to be in London every few years still; I also had similar experiences there at the London Silver Vault with David Shure on English silver and with Tim at Bentley’s on leather goods.
What a great sentence:”but it’s still possible to be a patron – to support artisans through what you buy and how you interact with their creator.” Perfectly describes my thoughts about my relationship with you and all that you and your team does, and I’m certain that of many other readers/followers/PS customers. Thanks for giving us the opportunity and ability to become patrons. It’s an honor.
Cheers Howie
This is a really nice peice.
I have to say that I probably enjoy the process of bringing something to be altered or mended just as much as a fitting at this point.
When I bring stuff in I find myself articulating to the tailor the way I wear the garment and perhaps note what we should do in our next commissions in light of my experience wearing the peice.
Fittings are naturally exciting- where you both can imagine wearing the peice in the real world. Bringing a peice in is more of a nostalgic experience- where I can recount a meeting or another memorable day I wore the suit- something my tailor seems to really enjoy.
Happy holidays,
You too Shaoul
I have lived in Kyiv for more than 10 years and always used the same tailoring house. I also shopped online a lot in the past.
When the war started, my mum told me: “Stop buying in England or France. Go and support your local craftsmen”.
So I went back to the House. By then they were making suits and embroidered green shirts for the President.
My tailor then joined the armed forces, so I got a new one. A small price to pay to keep the business going.
The article struck me, especially in these times. It is perhaps the piece of writing that feels the most personal.
I will be back to the House as soon as I can. The name is Indposhiv, in case some people are interested.
Hi Simon,
A thought provoking article. I have never thought of myself as a patron, simply that there are particular tailors or clothing stores I enjoy for certain types of clothing (W&S for tailoring, Budd for shirts, A&S for knitwear). Your point on the people is very relatable; advice on what may suit, and occasionally gently steering me from items that may not, has helped to create that relationship aspect that has me keeping to a small number of places. I’m not sure I would call myself a patron, particularly as I may only purchase 2 or 3 items from each per year, but I do see the value in longer term relationships and support for craftspeople.
May I wish you and everyone at PS a Merry Christmas and I look forward to many more insightful articles in 2025.
Thank you Richard, and you too
It’s very difficult to establish these relationships these days. Simply because so much business is conducted on line.
Back in the day (‘69 to ‘76) I had phenomenal relationships with ‘Marcus Price’ the Newcastle boutique and ‘West One’ a Sunderland shop. Both were akin to gentleman’s clubs. Of course, we had more in common than clothes – it was endless conversations about style, music, sport and nightlife.
The closest I have to it today is with Anglo-Italian which is always a joy to drop into.
Perhaps all of this poses an opportunity for you, Simon, to establish a closer relationship with those that shop from your virtual store ?
True David. I think we have done that to the extent with the pop-ups – hundreds of people come in each time, most of whom I know from previous iterations
You have but you could go much further with analytics of those who actually buy from you.
You are in a unique situation.
Regards,
David
True David, we have a lot of analytics there
Analytics like click statistics and geographical breakdown of users or only regarding the shop?
Have you also gone into analyses like what kinds of articles are being viewed and what comments are being posted?
I have some ideas regarding the tagging of pictures, articles, comments. That could enrich the lookbook for instance when searching for something like „brown“ & „flannel“ or „navy worsted“. Also the search function on the site could benefit.
Some specific questions are only being brought up hidden in the comments. Those comments could be tagged (so you would find a comment containing „Wool Silk Linen“ when searching for „WSL“) and linked to corresponding articles and further improve the user experience. Why is that important? In my experience Simon is the main person for replying to comments and reviewing them. An improved user experience and easier navigation on the PS-webpage will reduce this workload and free up Simon for other tasks.
What do you think? I might be able to actively help there.
Hi,
Thank you, great ideas. We are looking already into improvements on the search page along these lines and on the lookbook page. I think we’re ok for help, but I very much appreciate the offer
Manish,
On Simon’s point about breaking into menswear, if you were doing so now, would you still use the chicken emoji over your face in your instagram handle? I presume you did that to have some level of obscurity / privacy, but still enjoy a creative outlook. Obviously over time that has taken on a level of endearment so I don’t imagine you would want to change mid-stream. Further, you must have gotten somewhat comfortable with a public persona in the small classic menswear world given you show your full face on PS.
Anyways, just curious to hear your thoughts on this public – private push pull 🙂
Merry Christmas!
Rand
Hi Rand!
Good question!
There wasn’t any grand plan when it came to the chicken emoji, but, as you suggested, it was initially a way to maintain some level of privacy. It also put the focus on the clothes (it doesn’t matter how bad my face/hair looked in a photo, stick a chicken on it and I’m done). And, I think it was a way of showing I don’t take myself too seriously.
It also became a nice icebreaker at menswear events. “Oh, you’re the chicken guy!”
The emoji is kind of redundant now, but (as you say) it does have some charm to it, so I’m reluctant to get rid of it. Friends have said it is a bit of a trademark as well.
To your original question, would I still use it now? The account is a little ‘boxed in’ as a result. However, it’s entirely possible I’d have been just another bog-standard ‘fit’ account if I hadn’t used it. On balance I’d say there are more positives than negatives from using it, so I would do the same again 😊 Je ne regrette rien!
Hello everyone and merry Christmas!
Great article Simon.
I have to say this really really make sense for me : I want to be involved in menswear, but would never leave my job and launch a brand or anything like that.
I kind of feel like what you describe as a « patron », as I’ve been purchasing many things from small brands for the past few years, like Rubato, anglo-italian, Bryceland’s…
I have’nt really have the chance to meet and chat with the founders of brands I like, not even in social media, as I dont post a lot.
But I would enjoy meeting those brands at events or trunk shows some day.
Cheers!
An interesting article, even though (or maybe because) I have some mixed feelings about the message.
I’ve settled into being a patron of a couple of makers: I have no interest in retail(or anything that involves hard work!), no skills in crafting things, and my attempts to become an influencer was an absolute failure. I’m lucky enough to have a sympathetic tailor nearby, and we’ve developed a strong working relationship over the years, to the point where I can walk in and start rummaging through the fabric bundles without anyone batting an eyelid.
I do think being a patron carries a weight beyond just being a regular customer; in my mind, it represents a more symbiotic relationship. While I’m a regular poster and buyer from PS, I wouldn’t call myself a patron. Neither my posts nor my purchases are significant enough to make an impact, and if I stopped reading, posting and buying from PS I doubt it would be noticed by anyone. I realize this might sound a bit resentful, but I simply reason that for the relationship to mean something, it can’t be for everyone. Just shopping and liking isn’t enough. While being a patron is always a financial/business relationship at its core, there is something more to it. Based on the (miss?)quote from Hitchcock above, the patrons help define the business, and are in turn defined in some small way by it.
So, why do I have mixed feelings about this article? Because while I think it’s an important perspective to acknowledge (without patrons and customers, no makers), I don’t think it scratches the itch that many people feel when they “want to get into menswear”, just like eating at good restaurants doesn’t satisfy the desire to understand cooking, and leasing a tesla doesn’t give the same feeling as owning and maintaining a classic car. To me, and I think to many other menswear nerds, there is a desire to engage with the hobby (for a hobby it is) with more depth than the occasional custom order, local event with free drinks, or “being the best dressed person at the office”. One wants to feel the difference between vintage fabrics and modern ones, see the details of how things are made, and hear the stories of the master craftspeople. Not simply read about someone else doing it. One wants to engage with the hobby as an insider, not as a customer.
In that light, the suggestion that we buy more things instead can sound a bit hollow.
Some valid points Sams.
I think the solid smaller, knowledgeable, multi-brand retailers deserve a thorough mention and not just bespoke tailors etc.
They may not stock the celebrated likes of Rubato etc but are good enough to have reliable, regular patronage from customers who simply do not take themselves or menswear oh so very seriously.
People just want to look good and feel good about it but we do not hear about these smaller specialists who may stock select Giorgio Armani and a few others, tucked away in leafy Surrey.
So patronage for me is a two way thing – I expect something back other than a pair of posh strides, which is an invaluable bond and friendship which is respected and welcomed.
Simon: Would you agree ?
Yes absolutely
Simon,
is there a chance in the future to review some of these select and often revered multi-brand retailers ?
I know vintage is covered form time to time.
Must be dozens of them here in Blighty, without forgetting the quaint boutiques hidden in Paris, Tokyo, Sicily etc.
I think they deserve some airtime and probably have great tales to tell too which apart from the clothing, always adds to the joy of reading.
Slightly different to your current model of PS but I do not believe it will take anything away from what you guys do day to day.
What do you think ?
Thanks JR, yes we can try and do that with some of the smaller or more regional ones that we haven’t covered in the past.
Lucas covered this subject of course in his piece here. Just in case you haven’t seen that
Definitely true. I think a lot of us started buying from those multi-brand stores, even if some of us eventually moved onto bespoke. Multi-brand stores with knowledgeable staff is a great asset – sadly it’s becoming a rarity these days, so all the more reason to be a patron of the existing ones.
its been hinted at above, but deliberately buying from your local multi brand small shop is also a great way to support. You can always buy online, cheaper, but their knowledge, effort and risk makes our local shops (and visiting cities) much more interesting. So being a loyal customer or patron of these makes all the difference.
I sometimes wonder whether it is better to stick with the same tailor, shirtmaker and shoe maker in terms of being a loyal customer. So far, I’ve commissioned a suit and navy blazer from a Saville Row tailor, another suit from a New York City-based Italian tailor, shirts from a London shirtmaker and a pair of shoes from a Savile Row shoemaker (pretty easy to guess which one, lol) and another pair of shoes from an Italian shoemaker. I’ve got my eye on commissioning an overcoat from a different Saville Row tailor, although strictly speaking that house is no longer on the row. And perhaps more shirts and shoes, this time from a shop on Jermyn Street and St James Street respectively.
Each house I’ve dealt with has gone above and beyond in terms of developing a relationship and providing expert advice without being condescending as they save me from myself, and I’ve been more than satisfied with their work. I’ve enjoy meeting with them all, and none of them has given me any reason to go elsewhere. So I can’t help but feel a little disloyal as none of them has given me any reason to go elsewhere.
It would feel a little weird to drop their shop wearing a different maker’s clothing, and I can’t help but wonder if it would hurt their feelings, although I’m sure they would be too polite to show it. But there are so many wonderful artisans out there that it seems a shame not to try at least a decent sample size.
Any suggestions for Los Angeles? For a number of years I patronized a tailor here from Budapest. To walk through the door of his shop was to enter Mitteleuropa, with classical music in the background and an air of calm and gentility, a place where all seemed right with the world. He retired during the pandemic, and I have been unable to find someone new. Any thoughts and suggestions would be much appreciated.
Not on local tailors I’m afraid, no.
I’ve had this experience, Simon and it is as wonderful as you say. It has led to great collaborations and even friendships. I would stop in to say hello and inevitably buy something I didn’t really need but enjoyed. In exchange I got a great relationship with a master tailor who often said he would do anything for me, and he frequently fulfilled the promise, right down to changing the silk facing on a 30 year old tuxedo so I didn’t have to buy a new one.
A very good post and perspective. I have four major hobbies in life, and I’m fortunate to work with one of them. The others I try to cultivate in the way you describe—not necessarily by buying things, but by building relationships with professionals in the field. I might not be a Patreon supporter per se, but I find myself in a similar space.
One reflection is that it feels harder to channel enthusiasm when it comes to clothing and style compared to other areas. Take watches, for example: there are countless forums, websites, and opportunities for anyone who wants to write articles, photograph watches, or even buy and sell them. The ecosystem for engaging with watches feels much larger.
With style and clothing, however, the landscape is different. Instagram is, of course, a dominant platform, but the rich network of blogs and forums we had ten years ago has mostly disappeared. Today, Permanent Style is practically the only one left—though it remains fantastic.
The same pattern applies to podcasts. While there are countless watch podcasts, there are almost none focused on menswear.
On the other hand, isn’t the opportunity to become a patron greater in menswear than in almost any other field (except maybe restaurants)? After all, there are so many small makers, tailors, and shops to support—especially if you can encourage friends and acquaintances to shop where you do.
Yes, that’s very true Per
I live in the Raleigh-Durham area of North Carolina, USA. Can you recommend a bespoke tailor in my area? Maybe I can be a patron!
I’m afraid I can barely recommend many in the whole of the US Mark, it just hasn’t been big for a long time
Being a patron is a sensible idea as patrons help keep the companies in business. Currently I’m a patron of 5 British firms, each producing outstanding products. In no particular order they are: John Smedley 30 knitwear pieces, Private White 7 coats and jackets, Crockett&Jones 7 pairs of shoes, Sophie Harley 6 jewelry and/or cufflinks pieces and Carl Friedrik 3 luggage pieces. I’ve found that these folks produce high quality well designed products.