Paul’s Permanent Style watches
By Paul Croughton
Not so long ago, Simon and I were discussing watches – specifically what would make a ‘Permanent Style watch’. As both a PS reader of well over a decade and a watch enthusiast and collector, I saw this as a welcome, if dangerous, opportunity to get sucked down a rabbit hole.
It was also a chance to highlight some lesser-known options, rather than the more commonly seen classics such as JLC’s Reverso, the Cartier Tank or a Patek Calatrava.
They’re all so widely recognised as icons of good taste that they’re obviously PS-type watches.
But before we debate what exactly the watches might be, let’s establish a definition.
To qualify, a ‘PS watch’ must tick multiple boxes. Most obviously it should have style – an understated elegance, by which I mean design language that leans towards simplicity, though there will always be magic in the details.
Second, size matters – there will be no dinner plates here. The trend for 44mm watches and above seems to be fading in favour of mid-sized or smaller timepieces. This, IMHO, is a good thing (see: elegance, above).
That means for the purposes of this article we’re going to narrow our parameters to dress watches (traditionally in precious metals, although steel is increasingly popular) rather than sports watches. This doesn’t mean that sports watches on metal bracelets aren’t great – of course they are. There may even be a follow-up piece there at some point. Simon’s vintage Rolex GMT is fantastic, for example. But for now, we’re trending more formal.
What else? A point of difference, an element of rarity (because the PS reader naturally shies away from the mass-produced) and the quality of make will be paramount. This plays into sustainability: even more than with bespoke tailoring, a well-made, well-cared-for watch should outlast its wearer. Probably many wearers.
So those are our guidelines. Finally, a word on price. High-end watches are expensive, increasingly so over the last few years. So I’ve deliberately picked some that are, in relative watch terms, on the cheaper side; the rest decidedly are not.
These are my personal preferences - I’m a long way from suggesting these are the only watches worth having. But I hope readers who appreciate the technical expertise that is poured into the making of a suit can do the same for the manufacture of a timepiece. Right, enough spiel. On to the watches.
£10,300
Grand Seiko is the watch nerd’s little secret. The premium, artisan younger sibling of the Japanese behemoth that is Seiko, GS has a reputation for extreme accuracy, exceptional finishing... and rubbish names.
The first thing you notice about the SLGW003 (see what I mean?) is the textured dial, inspired by the bark of the white birch trees that grow near the GS studio in northern Japan. While a clean enamel dial is a beautiful thing, I’m a sucker for subtle dial decoration, and I love how GS uses nature as its guiding inspiration (check out its snowflake dial).
Other little details please me: the titanium case’s brushed bezel echoes the birch’s stripes, while GS’s signature Zaratsu polishing on the lugs creates crisp contrast. On the technical side, the manual-winding movement gives you an 80-hour power reserve, so you can take it off after work on Friday and it’ll still be going strong on Monday even if you’ve worn something else all weekend.
£13,500
The independent Tokyo-based Naoya Hida launched in 2018. Its three-man team includes its eponymous founder, and together they have produced fewer than 200 pieces across a handful of different styles.
The Type 1D is a contemporary twist on vintage watches from the 1940s and 1950s, a period that many consider the golden age of elegant watch design. The 37mm case is made from tough 904L steel (used by Rolex, this is recognised both for its anti-corrosive qualities and for being a nightmare to machine) while the dial is a solid chunk of German silver.
Full disclosure: I have one of these and in the metal, as watch nerds say, the cursive Breguet numerals are truly beautiful – all the more for being carved freehand by one person. Imagine trying to chip out those numbers with nothing but a micro chisel and a magnifying glass. Like a Milanese buttonhole, the beauty is in the detail and the level of craftmanship is, frankly, ridiculous. [See video at the bottom of this article.]
The only thing I’m less keen on here is the strap. I’m not a fan of contrast stitching, so I wear mine on plain black crocodile or tan leather, and it works a treat.
3. The Armoury by Paulin Modul A Hong Kong II
£600 (approx)
This collaboration between The Armoury, whom readers will know very well, and small Glaswegian watch brand Paulin, has a lot going for it.
While the green dial isn’t exactly simple, I’m drawn to its unusual configuration. It’s a riff on what’s known as a California dial, created in the 1930s and used by pilots during World War II due to its error-proof configuration of Roman numerals up top and Arabic ones below. I’ve always loved them; they make me smile every time I turn my wrist.
This version switches in Chinese characters on the bottom half, making it that much more unusual, while the steel C-shaped case is a subtle point of difference that’s easy to overlook. At 35mm it’s surprisingly understated, and the suede strap is a great way of making a dress watch less formal.
I’d use this as a characterful travel watch: something cheery to throw on then forget about, and not worry if it got a bit bashed around.
£1,230 approx
Serica is a new independent brand from France that has, until now, focused on sturdy tool watches.
Its latest release is a dramatic departure: minimal and monochrome, it has an unusual ‘stadium’ case (so called because it looks like a sports stadium from above). There are obvious parallels to Patek Philippe’s famous Ellipse here, but in truth this is a more muscular vision of the sort of piece traditionally worn with black tie or at a cocktail event.
The 35mm brushed-steel case is in keeping with Serica’s back catalogue, but the guilloche (engraving) on the dial and small hour markers give it an uptown appearance, enhanced by a slim automatic movement.
Like the Paulin above this is certainly not for everyone – but if you appreciate vintage watches but want something more robust, or you’re after something unusual and unexpected, this could be for you. The first 250 of 500 will be available in March.
£22,700
Chopard is an independent firm that makes glamorous jewelry and various styles of watches, not all of which I love. But when I saw this one at Watches & Wonders in Geneva (the horological equivalent of Pitti) it stood out a mile.
There’s a sexy high-low thing going on: you’ve got that chic salmon-coloured gold dial with guilloche pattern, and, like the 1D above, a sub-seconds dial. The movement looks beautiful through the open caseback, too.
But the steel 36.5mm case and grey calfskin strap stop it from coming off as overly fancy. It’s a bit like wearing a denim shirt under a flannel suit; there’s a quiet confidence here, a willingness to be a little different.
Speaking of clothes, this is another watch that works well with casual wear, but it would look sensational peeking out from under the cuff of a double-breasted, chalk-stripe suit. It screams – albeit it very quietly – sophistication.
5. Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat
£3,150
Yes, I know I said I wouldn’t include a Tank, but this one’s a little different thanks to something hidden behind those famous Roman numerals. It’s a solar panel, which charges the quartz battery so it only needs replacing once every 16 years. Sixteen years! Not that you’d know: to any casual observer it’s just a classic Tank, but in steel rather than gold.
A Tank is supremely versatile, as good with a vintage jungle jacket as with tailoring, so this is a low-maintenance, go everywhere option. It comes in two sizes on a leather-look plant-based strap – although one of the great things about a Tank is how well it takes to all sorts of other straps. I’ve even seen them look good on NATO military bands.
This is a high-tech twist on a classic, and one of the easiest ways into arguably the classiest, most design-focused watch brand.
Paul Croughton is a journalist and editor who has been writing about style, travel and luxury for 25 years. He’s run magazines in the UK and US, most recently as editor in chief of Robb Report in New York.
Hi Paul, I don’t read arabic however those characters below on the watch face look distinctly asian. Cheers
Try re-reading the piece, Pyc. Those numerals are Chinese
Those are Chinese characters originally, but they are also used in Japanese
Given it’s named after Hong Kong, we can guess which variant they’re using.
nb Arabic numerals (so called) are the ones you are familiar with! They are still very similar to modern Arabic numbers too. So you do read some Arabic!
Vintage (1970s) steel Rolex Datejust from the 16xx series on a Jubilee or Oystet bracelet. Good examples are readily available for under £5000 these days.
Yes, they can be great watches, and I particularly like them with a smooth bezel. But the lack of a quick-set date that the later models have can be a bit of a pain if it’s not your daily wearer.
If we do a second piece on steel sports watches, then that’s a strong contender.
I know I for one would be interested in a second piece on steel sports watches !
I would welcome such a piece
Exactly! The most permanent of permanent style watches. I wear my 1601 with everything and it is never out of place.
Hairspring watches talked about the beauty of these.
I just last week acquired a Paulin Modul A Hong Kong Dial II from The Armoury, mine in white silver. I frequently find myself glancing at my wrist and being taken once again with how stylish it looks (the riff on the California dial is a tad flashier than my usual style). Would recommend to anyone looking for a relatively inexpensive watch for travel or daily wear.
Thanks Steven, that’s good to hear. Glad you like it. I confess I’ve looked at the time on a watch, got distracted by the design or some element of the dial, and then had to look again a few seconds later to remember what time it is….
Is the photo really a Must? It is normally identified as such on the face, which this one isn’t.
Click through on the link in the title to the Cartier page perhaps
So Cartier developed the Must range as a way of making their watches more affordable in the face of declining sales, creating a “two tier” brand. Seemingly the marketing guys have decided they can use the designation in a different wear now.
Not impressed.
Yes I’m aware of that. So the issue for you is that this is no longer something on that tier?
Can recommend the highly affordable mechanical watches from Kyoto-based boutique watchmaker Kuoe for anybody interested in a smaller 35mm watch at an affordable price point with great style.
https://www.kuoe-en.com/product-page/royal-smith-90-006-gold-case-ivory-dial
Hi Dave,
I wasn’t aware of Kuoe, so thanks for pointing that out. There are a lot of great, young micro-brands coming out of Japan at the moment and this looks to be one of them. I particularly like this description (on the site’s About page) of the genesis of the founder’s watch journey on entering a vintage shop in London 15 years ago. There are strong parallels between his experience with watches and many of our feelings about classic menswear, I suspect…
“There was a line-up of hand-wound watches from the 1940s – ‘70s. He was instantly drawn to them and their ability to keep time even after the rich accumulation of history in the decades that had passed. Although the watches were antiques, they somehow felt warm and refreshing, and were naturally appealing to wear on the wrist. There, in that shop, Uchimura found the strong appeal of classic design, and realized that something that is truly classic is loved and revered universally around the world and across generations.
You’re most welcome Paul and thanks for the article. I have owned the linked watch with a smart brown leather band and gold rim for several months now and am really enjoying the experience. It feels like a very classical watch that works well with my preferred clothing hues of navy, brown and olive and sits on the smaller side on my wrist.
For what it’s worth my watch’s mechanism seems to sit between -5 seconds and +10 seconds per day which is well within the advertised range for the Miyoda mechanism but likely not quite as accurate as a higher end mechanism you will find in a more expensive watch. Easily solved by resetting the time against GMT once a week though!
I should have mentioned Kurono as another Japanese micro brand to look out for. They are very hard to come by in very limited, timed releases, so I’m yet to snag one unfortunately. Would be interested to hear from any readers who have!
https://kuronotokyo.com/
Citizen also makes Japan-only automatic watches which are sub-40mm and very clean eg the NB1050-59A.
I do like grand seiko. For me the SBGW231 (https://www.grand-seiko.com/uk-en/collections/sbgw231g) is the perfect dress watch. Well made, beautiful. Understated.
Everything I need in a watch and nothing I don’t.
There’s a fine line between “stylish” and “snobbish”. I love PS because Simon often (almost always) land on the right side of that line. This article does not. The problem with “snobbish” is – as you all know – that it ruins an outfit. If you wear something just because of the snob value, it will almost certainly be out of sync with the rest of what you are wearing.
Why do you feel the watches are being worn just because of snob value Peter? There is an element here of wearing lesser-known things, but it doesn’t come across as snobbish to me, and certainly doesn’t ruin the outfit
It is surely quite easy to write an article about obscure and unheard of brands and make it seem exclusive and aspirational.
At a push I might go with the Cartier and the Seiko, but as for the rest it’s hard to see why one should be even slightly interested.
There are other far more desirable watchmakers out there.
If that were the only reason for liking the watches, yes that would be quite easy. But the reasons here are mostly not that – they are more about craft and design.
We have also been quite clear here that we are deliberately avoiding the more obvious choices, as mentioned in the introduction. People already know those and they have been talked about here and elsewhere.
I love the Cartier Tank. And if you wear one because it works with your shirts, then you are in the right area of thinking. But if you wear one to brag about the hidden solar panel, then you’re probably more of a snob. And that’s why i didn’t like this article. Style is all about personality, and that’s what we love about PS. We don’t know you, but we like the way you write and we like the people that you write about. You often show us that great style have great personalities behind it. Like all good art. When you start to know a bit about yourself, you often become a better dresser, and then you will find that you have something in common with the people who cares about clothes and the people who makes the clothes you like. The same way you have something in common with the writers or filmmakers you like. I think that many of your readers somehow know that style is about life, but not why that is, and the explanation is that style it’s about knowing who you are and the connections with other people. Snobbishness often gets in the way of that. I found this article to be a little bit to snobbish for my taste, but maybe that’s just me.
I see your point re snobbishness in general Peter, but I think you’re reading your own views into the article a little. The reasons for liking the Tank are all design ones, about style and versatility. There is a mention of rarity at the beginning, but that doesn’t mean you have to brag about that or anything else.
Hi Peter,
Thanks for reading and commenting. I totally agree with you about style reflecting life, and the better you get to know yourself, the easier things like working out what looks good on you, and what you feel best in, become.
As for the snobbish part, personally, I think there’s a difference between knowing that there’s something subtle and intriguing hidden somewhere in the watch, and boasting to others about it — unless they ask, of course. I love asking about what people are wearing, and enjoy hearing the little stories behind various details and choices. In fact, one of the things I love about the makers and products that PS covers are the stories behind them: the years of study and experimentation that goes into the designs; the hours and hours of practice to hone the craft, etc. I wouldn’t expect the wearer of a bespoke suit to go on about how the canvas helps shape the chest, or how many fittings it took to make the neck sit so perfectly on his shirt collar – unless he was asked, of course – and the same goes for the watches.
Nice article! I’ve been reading PS for more than ten years and never made a comment. I am a low-income guy so I never feel like I have much to contribute, beyond “good article!” or “what a wonderful coat!” (I love Simon’s coats). It doesn’t stop me from enjoying reading about clothes and items that are light years beyond my financial means. But watches… I was fortunate to receive two wonderful timepieces from my father: a gold Cartier Tank and a Breitling Chrono 80520. On those basis I’ve built an small four watches set adding an automatic steel Seiko 5 for everyday purposes and a plastic quartz watch for sports, beach and so on. Maybe in the future I’ll switch this quartz watch for a Casio G-Shock (the smallest version, I don’t wanna wear a 45 mm monster in my wrist). In my opinion, four watches are enough to cover every possible situation. In any case, as Simon often says in his “If you only had five…” articles, you could add a fifth watch, maybe a pilot one, depending on your lifestyle.
Hello Ion. I think the best watches are those with sentimental value, such as those given to you by your father. Thanks for your comment.
Fully second that. My most cherished possession is by far a Rolex GMT (like Simon’s) that my father handed me over when I turned 18, some 40 years ago. He had bought it in 1967, right after coming back from the Six Days War in the Middle East.
Nice to hear, that sounds like a great bunch of watches to have.
Sounds like a great collection Ion. All the boxes ticked!
Personally I don’t think you can go wrong with an a Lange and sohne dress watch ( especially 1815 or saxonia thin) or credor eichii , they are underrated and elegant , and hopelessly out of my budget !
Hi Ian, I realised that I mentioned the same pair of Langes in a comment further down; we share the same tastes. And, I suspect, the same budgets, as they are quite punchy, aren’t they…?
Does anyone know what navy coat Paul is wearing? Thank you.
Hi Michael. It’s a bespoke overcoat by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
Thanks, it’s veeery nice.
When I saw the title, I expected an essay on $75,000 watches. Thank you for not doing that – I appreciate it.
Given the criteria – design language that leans towards simplicity, smaller size, rarity, and quality – I’m surprised that none of the watches recommended come from Glashütte. Nomos make some stunningly beautiful and strikingly distinctive watches (I’m particularly thinking of the Lambda) using in house movements, while pound-for-pound I think Mühle deliver some the best looking – and least common – dress watches going (I *love* the Teutonia series).
Hi Mark,
Good call. Nothing at all against Glashütte. Indeed, Nomos was on my long list. And A Lange & Sönne is one of my favourite brands – I could easily have included something from the Lange 1 and Saxonia ranges but didn’t want to overload the list toward the high end.
The Nomos watch is an interesting suggestion. It has a minimalist face, but then a large logo which the minimalist face appears to give added prominence too. Personally I find this undermines the whole clean look, and I tend to find logos rather vulgar. In contrast in the examples above, the logo kind of blends into the background.
I should add I have only seen them on screen so maybe it’s less of an issue in person.
Great article and lovely to hear about these small new brands coming out of Japan and their commitment to craft. Look forward to more articles from Paul.
Oh, and that coat that Paul is wearing looks amazing too. Clearly a very well dressed man.
Thank you Ravi, much appreciated. The coat is by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Peeking out from underneath is one of the PS cashmere rugby jumpers…
I would definitely go for a vintage Grand Seiko over a new one. These watches were giving the Swiss a run for their money in the 70s. Same way as Honda decimated the British mororcycle industry with superior products around the same time.
A nice condition GS56 can be yours for under a grand.
Really good article .
Something unique and unusual wise also being at a broad piece point.
We need more of this sort of thing .
Certainly more tailoring across price points
When I was younger, I had various watches that weren’t quality watches. My first quality watch was a stainless-steel Rolex DateJust that I bought in the mid 80’s that I bought on layaway. It took time for me to pay it off.
In 2000, I bought a Rolex gold DayDate in cash.
I can never understand why someone would have more than one watch. I wear my watch every day. If I am doing something that could damage my watch, I don’t wear it.
I can never understand why someone would be a secondhand watch. If you can’t afford to buy new, save up for it instead of being a poser.
I look at people who buy more than one watch in puzzlement.
I don’t follow how buying a second hand watch makes you a poser? There are plenty of good reasons to do so. The design, the fact the watch has aged and developed a nice patina, or because you can’t afford a new one.
Thanks for commenting. I can understand your viewpoint. For many people, their one watch is something they wear day in, day out. My father wore the same Seiko for 50 years.
These days, when nobody needs a watch for the reason my father wore his – to tell the time – wearing a watch becomes as much a choice as an act of utility. Whether you wear one all the time, treasure it and care for it – as you clearly do – and are known for it, or like to swop it out for something different in the way you change your clothes or shoes, comes down to personal choice.
As for why vintage, I love the style of older watches and prefer them to more modern iterations (with the expection of the Naoya Hida, above, although that looks like a lot of my vintage watches), but just as much, I love the idea that someone has worn this before me.
The oldest watch I own is from 1947. Think how many people have worn that, through the entire spectrum of life experience, before it got to my wrist. It’s the same reason I collect vintage barware: I like to think about how much fun and celebration an Art Deco cocktail shaker has been part of, in the near-100 years that it’s been in use, while I’m shaking up my gimlet. It’s not about affordability because vintage watches can be terrifyingly expensive, often far, far more than a similar model at retail. It’s a choice based on aesthetics and provenance, like much of PS. Not sure why that makes someone a poser, though?
Well, people might want to have different watches for different styles of dress. For example a more casual watch to wear with jeans and a more dressy watch to wear with a suit. And maybe different leather straps. I could understand that.
What I don’t like however are people who wear 10.000 EUR watch and 100 EUR shoes. Too tight to buy proper shoes, but spending a fortune for a watch to show-off. And it is super common actually. There are significantly more people who wear a Rolex than people who are dressed well.
Great article.
Personally I love the Rolex Air-King model 114200. It’s just the most simple, elegant all purpose watch going.
Unfortunately Rolex have completely ruined it with the new supersized model. Why do they insist on making everything larger ?
An old Air King is so often a great watch. A 34mm Rolex that will go anywhere.
Some interesting suggestions and a nice read, too. For me, vintage Omega is the way to go. Great dress watches with amazing movements that will, provided they’re looked after, easily run 50+ years after they were made. If you buy from a reputable seller, you can pick up a professionally restored and serviced Omega that keeps great time for around Euro 1,000. I recently bought this beautiful Seamaster Cosmic from 1970 for Euro 1,050 (including registered delivery).
I agree Duncan. For a classic look, older watches really are excellent and in my opinion, so much more elegant than larger contemporary watches. And in the UK, you save the VAT too! And unlike a classic car, where you can make the same arguments about the elegance of their looks, they really are very usable and keep excellent time if well cared for – I wear an 80s Datejust daily.
Looks great Duncan and agreed about vintage Omegas. I also think neo-vintage space or 1990’s to 2000’s Omega has select great options, before the modern co-axials and market trends ballooned their watches up. For example first generation Aqua Terra at 36mm or 39mm is just great and I prefer the lugs and indices on it over Rolex Explorer. Another more sporty Omega from that early 2000’s era is Seamaster 300, great in steel but there is also an interesting titanium option.
If we’re talking about PS adjacent watch brand though I feel you just can’t get over Cartier. Maybe not the most interesting or exciting watches, at least on attainable level, but as jewelry/accessory I think you can’t argue against the brand: Tank in its many iterations, Santos in two tone, Santos-Dumont, Tonneau, Drive and my personal favourites the Tortue – all can be successfully worn with vast majority of outfits featured on PS. The sublime Tortue Monopusher might be out of reach for most but for example Tortue CPCP from early 2000’s is just an object of beauty.
Duncan and M, where have you found your vintage Omegas (I’m in the UK). I recently bought a late 1970s Omega at auction as my first vintage watch purchase but it never worked right from the moment I picked it up. The auction house did both try to fix it and kindly take it back and refund me.
Sorry Will but I can’t really help you there. I have absolutely no knowledge about UK’s watch dealers or market aside from that it’s there. I’m sure there quite a few experienced users here though and hopefully they will see your post and chime in.
I usually do my purchases from pre-scouted locations while traveling since I live in a country with no market. Sometimes, based on gut feeling, I do a leap of faith and buy from private sellers but anything above €3000-4000 I’d get checked out by expert.
Paulin is now a tiny sub-brand of AnOrdain, whose owner is married to Paulin’s original owner I believe. It’s not clear if that brand will be around much longer. More interesting is AnOrdain and their amazing work with ceramics. Good luck getting one though, the waiting list is 4 plus years I believe.
Edit to my post: I meant AnOrdain known for its work with enamel not ceramic! Oops!
Yes, AdOrdain is a very interesting brand, with excellent enamel dials, and at a pretty good price point.
I enjoyed this article, love the Paulin piece. Credor make some stunning pieces, the Citizen line is Citizen’s answer to GS and again make some absolutely stunning pieces that fly under the radar. Hand made washi paper dials etc. There is so much variety out there that between vintage, microbrands and the big hitters you can find something at every price point to suit every style and occasion. Like someone mentioned above an article on sports pieces would be good but you could do one on some of the amazing vintage shops/pieces also. A watch is one of those things that can really set off an outfit and sometimes there’s a fantastic story behind the little thing wrapped around your wrist.
Without being a watches fan and without owning any watch, I still enjoyed this article. Because it brought some less mainstream names.
Btw. do you have a recommendation for an elegant wrist watch with an alarm function in the 500 to 5000 EUR range?
Hi Hristo. You don’t specify if you’d go vintage or not, but if so, have you had a look at Memovox from Jaeger-LeCoultre? There are a variety of dial variations, sizes etc, but if you can find a good example from perhaps the 60s or 70s, at 36mm or 37mm, you’ll have an elegant and interesting watch that will work with jeans and a T-shirt just as well as a suit and tie.
Good luck, and happy hunting.
By the way, Paul, after doing some research and watching some videos, I have the impression that the alarm function of the Memovox has improved over time. If you buy a modern watch, you might get a longer ringing and better sounding alarm.
Vulcain Cricket is the (only) one that comes to mind.
Thank you Paul, thank you Stamos! Both recommendations are really nice. I like them both. The pistachio green of Vulcain is simply crazy, but I can see myself wearing it.
And yes, I am open to vintage as long as it works reliably.
Yes, there are certainly more modern iterations that, as you say, may be more reliable. Depends on what sort of look you’re going for. The Cricket is a lovely watch too, nice thought Stamos.
There’s also the Cameo by the obscure Temption watches, a small German brand. It’s very no-nonsense and has an almost invisible logo.
I thought you owned an IWC Portugueser! I thought that watch would feature on this list. I liked your choices and the brands i wouldn’t have been introduced to otherwise.
I do Ian, but this is Paul’s article, not mine
I love that Naoya Hida is getting some attention. Beautiful brand.
Fun discussion, but personally I find it difficult to get behind new watch brands until they prove themselves, and Chopard always seems to be a bit “much”, although the 1860 is as lovely and restrained of a dial as I have seen from Chopard in a while. The Reverso, the Lange 1, the Calatrava, the Tank Cintree (or really any Cartier Tank), even the Rolex GMT . . . all seem to be the definition of “permanent style”.
Are elegant quartz watches rare?
Rolex used to do Oysterquartz and some of them are elegant, Grand Seiko make their own crystals for the quartz movements, the SBGX series is great.
There’s a lot of snobbishness about quartz, Jerry, based on a) the fact that quartz watches nearly killed off the mechanical watch industry back in the 70s and 80s, and b) the view that the lack of a mechanical movement inside them makes them an inferior product. Whether either of those points carries any weight with you is, of course, entirely up to you.
I have an Oysterquartz, funnily enough, Thomas, and really like the integrated bracelet that makes it slightly different to its Datejust cousins. And the fact that you can throw it on and not bother to wind or set it. Even though, oddly enough, that winding my watch at the beginning of the day is one of my favourite rituals. So yes, good call.
Many of Grand Seiko’s watches are quartz, and many are absolutely elegant. And Cartier does a number of quartz models, and you don’t get much more elegant than that…
Thank you for your suggestions, I will try the SBGX.
There are some quartz reversos as well with in-house, jeweled movements, if that matters to you. I look at quartz movements as engineering marvels: more accurate, shock resistant, dust resistant, greater power reserve, often small and thinner…
My wear my watch (a quartz reverso) as a piece of functional jewelry. It tells the time accurately and looks good doing it. I can enjoy mechanical movements, but in a two-hander with a solid caseback, there’s no good reason-for me-to not go with quartz
This is a really good list of watches.
As someone who loves watches, I still think Breguet is underappreciated, although perhaps stylistically not to everyone’s taste.
I would also encourage people to look at Habring and Dornbluth & Sohn for high quality pieces that are less well known.
For more modest budgets, I still think Nomos are the best value in modern watchmaking. Something like an Orion in 33 or 36mm case diameter is a lovely and (relatively) affordable dress watch.
I’d agree with you; vintage Breguet has been tipped for a while now to be the next brand to get its turn in the sun, vintage-wise, but it seems Piaget muscled in and became the hot vintage brand of last year…
Wonderful run down of underrated watches that have real personality in addition to being PS. Thanks! And indeed a lovely coat to have those watches peeking out of…
Hello,
Discovered this site about half a year ago as I began building my wardrobe from scratch. Looking for some tips for wheelchair users (similar to the wheelchair guy in the simpsons) for pieces to wear on top half of the body.
Most clothing on the smart end of the spectrum are really impractical for someone who sits down all day long. I am specifically looking for sitting-down alternatives to sport coats and the DB overcoat.
I have discovered “the hacking jacket” as a piece that can look good sitting down – this can probably be an alternative to a sport coat? Does any of you have any tips for where to buy something like this? preferably navy to start with
I have a barbour beaufort now, but miss a formal piece on top, like a DB overcoat. Overcoats become unpractical when sitting down. I have done a small amount of research on coats, and think that cropping a ready-made coat is one way to go.
Hey Emil,
I have no experience here, but I would have thought you want a short jacket like a blouson or a Harrington, unless you’re happy to sit on a large part of the coat.
A hacking jacket is the same as a sports coat just with some style differences (same length) so not sure that gains you much.
ah ok, thanks for replying anyways – I thought the hacking jacket was cut shorter than a sports coat.
thanks for replying anyway, I thought the hacking jacket was shorter than a sports coat.
my problem is that most formal pieces for the top is cut long, which makes them unpractical, and most short jackets (harringtons etc.) are inherently casual
Yes, I can certainly see that being an issue. Unfortunately tailoring really dominates our idea of things being smart.
A suede short jacket might be smarter, and something like a shawl cardigan with a shirt (and even tie) could be quite smart as well. Perhaps a gilet over the top of that
thanks for the advice! I have avoided gilets in the past because they make me feel like the michelin man, but I will offer it a second thought. the problem is probably again that most are cut to wear with low-rise trousers, which creates this bulk on the stomach when sitting down. For shortly cut gilets meant to wear with high-rise trousers, do you have recommendations? smart ones, preferably with buttoning
I think gilets are often cut OK, actually, but it helps if there are buttons or a two-way zip, so you can leave the bottom third or so undone.
For shorter ones, look to vintage brands or those inspired by vintage. Eg Real McCoys ones currently at Clutch for example
good point. Do you mean Clutch as in the link below? not sure what you mean
https://clutch-cafe.com/collections/the-real-mccoys
Yes – the vests towards the bottom of the page
Nice, thanks.
Hi again,
Do you have any experience with Private White’s “wool wadded gilet”? . It looks sleek not bulky in the material (I dont like bulky ones). Will they keep it for many seasons? Considering it as an alternative to the sports jacket, but I have a rather long list of pieces to buy before I get to a gilet
I don’t I’m afraid, and no idea on their plans for stock we don’t design
Another question about Private White: Their crew coat can probably work for me, but the fabric is 500gsm. is that to light for a top-/overcoat? I know peacoats etc are usually heavier
Yes I think so generally
ok, thanks for replying, this website is btw a fantastic resource for me Ias I’m rebuilding my wardrobe mostly from scratch 🙂
Lovely to hear Emil. Don’t be afraid to ask questions – if the answer isn’t already in the comments to an article, you’re adding to it as a resource by asking the question
As a lover of watches, versatility, and the concept of “permanent style”, here would be my perfect “dream” 4 watch collection I could live the rest of my life with:
– Rolex Explorer 14270
– A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 in Pink Gold
– Omega Seamaster 300 Heritage
– Grand Seiko SBGM2213G GMT
Thanks Paul for a great article.
Great post. I especially enjoyed reading about the Japanese brands. Personally, I have two solid staples, a steel rolex submariner and a yellow gold patek calatrava with a date and hobnail design. I find that the submariner is extremely durable and versatile tool watch. I’ve worn it in combat in Afghanistan and can wear it everywhere from the gym to black tie events. I’m obviously more careful with the calatrava. I find it to be incredibly beautiful and very elegantly understated. Right now, I’m content to have one tool watch and one dress watch but would like to branch out or find something new for my kids so I really appreciate this article. I’m wondering if anyone will write about watch bands in the future. I have a few custom bands that I purchased from ABP concepts in Paris. They have a nice online configurator and a massive selection of skins in their physical workshop. I have watch straps to match my patek with my shoes and designed a double tour watch strap for my fiance’s lady’s JLC reverso. For her, it turned out to be a nice touch because she can wear bangles stacked with her watch without worrying about scratches. I remember a post about Equus Leather years ago and tried them out but sadly (and mildly infuriatingly), they took my money before going out of business. It’s a real shame because the owner seemed really nice, he produced great work, and he made such charming videos of the entire process.
You may just have come up with the Platonic ideal of a two-watch collection there, Ian.
Watch bands would certainly be an interesting topic. There are many brands out there; two I could recommend would be Jean Rousseau and Huitcinq 1988.
I also recommend Molequin and Delugs, or Accurate Form
Nice suggestions. Frederique Constant has a nice ‘premiere’ 38.5mm automatic collection around the 2000 price point. Very classic, elegant, understated. Has the feel of Breguet. All best.
https://frederiqueconstant.com/watches/collection/men/men_classics/men_classics_premiere/fc-301s3b6/
Hi Simon & Paul,
Lovely article, thank you. Regarding the Chopard: This particular model is a slightly revitalised design derived from a series of watches Chopard made back in the late 90’s when they started their in-house manufacture. Should one look to the previous models, they come in a few different colour variations as well. I am the happy owner of two of the older models and they are a joy, front, back and indeed to wear as well. Tony Traina (former Hodinkee editor), wrote a lovely article on those models a while back, which you might dive into here, should you or anyone else feel the urge to geek out a little. I would guess it is a 5-10 min read: https://sub.rescapement.com/p/collectors-guide-the-chopard-luc
And there is another here which I bookmarked, with some lovely pictures as well: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/somewhat-vintage-original-chopard-luc-1997-found
Hi A.V.E,
You have excellent taste! I particularly like the blue dial, personally. And yes, you’re right, it’s a reissue of sorts, but what I particularly liked about this one is the lack of date window, and that it’s made in steel. Gives it a real versatility in my eyes; it’s super sophisticated (as indeed most of the LUC range is) but, particularly with that strap, really doesn’t look out of place with a denim shirt.
If you like Tony’s deep dives, he did a very nice job on this look at 1970s Cartier, which is worth a read.
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-vintage-1970s-cartier-watches
Thanks Paul, you’re very kind 🙂
Yes, that blue dial is marvellous. You are right, it is much cleaner without the date window, and I guess an argument for the removal of the date is the cleaner, the better for a dress watch. I would normally agree with you, in the case on date windows or not, but in this particular case, I seem to champion the unpopular opinion – I very much like and actually prefer the version with date window to the other one – I think it’s a masterclass in how to aesthetically integrate a date, instead of the hole-punch-in-dial-solution. Lange’s big date window and the one on Breguet 5930’s could be other examples of beautiful date integrations. This particular Chopard just has a wonderful example of the date window integration in my opinion.
That was a slightly weird geek-out moment in love of a date window – it’s obviously a matter of personal preference, and whichever one you pick, you’re right. It’s pure elegance, and you are certain to get a very balanced and truly wonderful watch that goes with both tailoring and sweaters (sorry Chopard), wether you choose steel, gold, a date window – or not.
Thanks very much for the Cartier read. Smaller dress watches – new and old – are surely back across the board these days, and some of these lovely models mentioned in Tony’s article could easily be on the watchlist for the future.
Thanks again 🙂
Hiya Paul,
Glad to see there is an affordable watch in there!
I’m in the market for a new watch though with very specific criteria: a cushion shape (with a dial that matches that shape – so not a circle in a rounded square), small as I have narrow wrists and those shapes can wear quite large, a date function, blue dial, no numerals and no integrated strap.
In an ideal world I’d have an affordable version of a PP aquanaut that is smaller than the standard model size but that’s not the real world.
The only real options I’ve found are old Tissots or Omegas and they don’t look in fantastic condition or a Mido but that’s too big.
Any suggestions?
Tom
IWC ref 1872 or TV screen.
35mm from the 1970s.
Can’t think of anything else that matches your criteria.
What a fun challenge! I couldn’t think of any exact matches but here are some that fit some of the criteria. In mechanical watches:
– the Longines Heritage 1969 reissue hits on everything but the dial colour. People have different sentiments on maintaining watches in their original condition but I wonder if you could get the dial repainted in blue
– The Glasshutte original Seventies Senator Panorama is discontinued. It’s also 40mm so might be too big. And it’s on a bracelet
– The Nomos Lux in white gold lacks a date and is a light blue. Also, the dial is shaped to the case but the indices are still arranged in a circle. It’s getting up towards PP pricing. Nomos also do the Tetra which is square rather than cushion and has no date.
– Sea Gull does a 34mm pale blue TV dial watch on a bracelet. Technically, I guess you could say it has an in-house movement ;). The days on the day wheel are in Chinese characters.
If it doesn’t have to be mechanical and/or modern you might find something in new or vintage Seiko or Casio (eg Seiko QZ-0923-5000). If you’re open to microbrands it might be worth writing to sites or content producers that cover microbrands to see if they can suggest something that fits your brief.
Not sure if any of this was helpful but it was fun to hunt around to try and find a match
Many thanks Stamos and GC – I’m glad to have provided you a fun challenge haha.
The IWC 1872 is one I stumbled upon and definitely a contender. My only point of concern is how well a watch from the 70s would hold up now, even from a well regarded brand like IWC. Admittedly I don’t own a watch that is that old so it would be my first vintage timepiece.
The Longines heritage looks lovely despite the colour. I have wondered about the possibility of make alterations to watch dials but wondered who can be trusted to do it.
Glashutte watch is pretty but I think it would look too big on my wrist sadly. Seems they offer leather integrated straps though.
Sea Gull looks good, just a shame they don’t offer alternative straps.
I have a soft spot for Seiko as it was my first watch so the vintage one looks good to me if I can find one.
Again many thanks to you both for suggestions.
On the IWC 1872, I guess a bit of due diligence would be needed when you find one. But unless the movement had been trashed, I think it would be feasible to get it serviced and keep it running nicely. I’ve never owned an IWC but others might know if IWC will still service models with the cal 8541.
I think with the Sea Gull you could fit a notched strap – that’s effectively what the Glashutte Seventies strap is. The Glashutte strap is notched to fit the middle link and then a friction pin connects the strap to to the middle link. There’s a post here about getting custom straps made for a Glashutte (https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/straps-for-my-glashutte-original-seventies-chronograph.5577812/). I can’t see any reason that the same thing couldn’t be done for the Sea Gull
The other kind of notched strap that could work is where it’s notched at the sides and you fit the narrowed end of the strap directly to the lugs (ie dispensing with the middle link).
Straps that are notched can be found – just a question of whether they have the right dimensions. A custom watch strap maker should have no trouble to do one to your specifications. And it’s easily within the realm of DIY to notch a “standard” leather strap (or trim the notch on a notched strap that’s just slightly out).
i have often wondered what makes one watch ‘better’ than another. I have long abandoned the notion of ‘best’ this or that.
Can anyone say whether one type of steel is better? Does more handwork add to the longevity of a watch? For a suit jacket the fit is probably better, but that does not apply to a watch.
There is something to be said for rarity. The IWC watches have become more recognised. Back in the ’70s and ’80s there were no ads for them I can recall.
I have never seen anyone wear a Vacheron and that makes it more intriguing to me; more than say a Patek or a Audemars.
(And why are those 3 the holy trinity of makes? )
Nice list. I saw that Naoya Hida previously featured by the Armoury. Wonderful piece, congrats.
I’m not a huge watch guy, but love the two I have – Nomos Metro and Lange 1 moonphase. Despite the clear differences, I actually like that I can wear both of them casually or dressed up.
Paul,
Great to have you join the PS team and looking forward to future articles. In addition to joining the chorus requesting a follow-up article focused on sports watches, would specifically love to see if you would do a review of Vortic (https://vorticwatches.com/). It’s not really Simon’s thing, but perhaps you (or Lucas) would be stoked to check them out and do a write-up. They even have a great factory if you happen to find yourself in Ft. Collins, Colorado. Happy to make other maker / store recommendations if a Rocky Mountain PS round-up appealed to the editorial board (aka Simon).
Best,
Rand
Oooo. I’m going to refer to myself as the editorial board from now on.
Greetings. Thanks for the lovely post. Must the color of your watch strap always align with your belt and shoes? For example, is it a misstep to wear a watch with a black strap with a navy suit and dark brown shoes? Which strap or band is seen as most versatile to work with black or brown shoes? Thanks very much
This comes up a lot and is clearly worth an extra post. But in brief, no a watch strap is far enough away that it doesn’t have to match BUT you want it to be something that harmonises with the outfit in the way any accessory would. So a mid-brown probably wouldn’t be great with black. But a green would be, or a metal, or perhaps even a tan
Cordovan no 8 is a surprisingly beautiful option too. As is suede
Hi Paul,
Nice article, and nice selection of watches. The GS is quite nice. How dressy does it wear? Is it versatile enough to wear casually with denim?
My habit has been to buy in the secondary market; there seems to be a significant price drop on even slightly used luxury watches. What’s the optimal time to wait to buy something like this GS, in the secondary market without waiting so long that it becomes vintage?
It’s versatile, just swap the strap if you find the black croc too dressy
sorry but manish was watch wise even more refreshing even he is not even a “watch guy” this post could have been much more than it is. I still hope to see more post regarding watches and how to incooperate them into different styles of outfits; picking watches for their style and not pricetag.
The author wants to move away from the larger watch, 44 mm. But my Swiss watch is an Alpina automatic watch, Pilot Heritage. The pilot part means the watch suggests watches worn by pilots years ago and much of the time as I understand it the watch was worn on top of the jacket and wound wearing gloves. Thus my watch is 44 mm and has a large, accessible crown. I know it is large but I’m thinking the authenticity here trumps fashion trends.
It’s a good point Rick, though I’d say what suits you and what you wear is more important than either potentially
Patek, Breguet numerals.
If a sub, an old one on leather or suede.
anything that will get better with age.
A sub on leather? It’s a dive watch. A nato or other fabric strap maybe or just keep it on its bracelet.
I love a pie pan Day-Date but only in white gold. Something so subversive and stylish about toning down the gangster’s yellow gold watch. Discrete, opulent, timeless
If budget were unlimited, it would have to be a time only Patek 570 or 530 for me.
failing that a 2508, 565 or 2526 with dauphine hands and a sharp case
I have never bought a quality watch and almost never wear a watch at all. I’m been into sartorial clothes for more than 10 years and I don’t want to show any logos. With watches you show the logo all the time and a lot of people around are going to know exactly what amount of money you have around your wrist. I don’t judge other people wearing expensive watches, don’t get me wrong, but I can’t see myself wearing an expensive watch. Perhaps that will change when growing older, I don’t know 🙂 (40 yrs now).
When I was drooling over grand Seiko, the problem was, due to polishing they are kind of pointless to buy new. You look at it wrong and it looses a ton of value.
Also I think watches should (as one criteria) be qualified per value. As in best of what you can afford. It’s pointless to dream about 10k watches if all I can afford is sub 3k watches…
Before buying ANY watch, it’s best to try it on if returning or reselling will be more trouble than it’s worth… Often you can love a watch on paper and newer warm up to it in real life…
For example I have quite flat wrists. So 45mm watch is borderline but still wearable, but 37-36 looks comically small. In general I think watches wearability very much depends on dial to bezel ratio. Nomos Orion wears much bigger than 38mm would suggest while (for me) Rolex deep-sea seemed weirdly small due to small dial and massive bezel.
Unless I win a lottery, for me ideal 3 watch collection is tag Heuer 43mm aquaracer, Nomos Orion 38mm and Huawei watch ultimate. You get dressy sports watch, proper dress watch and proper tool watch. 2 can be had for under 1k and aquaracer can be had for close to 1.5k on eBay…
I really like this philosophy
There are maybe some levels of watch collecting that are a bit independent of how much money is spent in total on each piece.
For example, I can completely understand how someone that adores craft would spend plenty of time and buy a range of 3/4 pieces like an old diver, a gold dress watch, maybe something rectangular. I could imagine spending even a million on just 3-4 beautiful things like that and treasuring them and using them all
What I can’t quite wrap my head around is the level of enthusiasm that leads some folks to amassing large numbers of beautiful pieces within a category- the sorts of enthusiasts who might have ten vintage Rolexes and Tudors and revel in the differences between 5513, a 1655, a 1675, a 6610. No matter how wealthy, I’d prefer to spend that delta on other things.
Part of what makes this overlap so interesting I think – the extent to which a community like PS does or does not overlap with other enthusiasms
For the beach: a colourful new Superocean; or a Seiko SKX007.
For walking the dog: a longines spirit or a hamilton khaki
For the boardroom: JLC reverso
For dinner: Blancpain Villeret; or Grand Seiko SBGW231