By Bernhard Roetzel.
Vienna is very different in many ways from London, but the two cities have one thing in common: both have been capitals of an empire. This explains why Vienna is so oversized in relation to the rest of Austria.
And there’s another similarity: Vienna is pretty packed with tourists, at least in the inner city. Not as much as Venice or Florence, but it’s another reason why there is a robust shopping scene.
Austria abolished the monarchy after the end of WWI and even banned the use of titles. Nevertheless many Austrians are still very fond of titles. They cherish traditions, and that love of tradition extends to clothing, which is why Austrians love Loden and tracht and also bespoke clothes and shoes.
I don’t think there’s any country in Europe outside Italy that has such a high percentage of men wearing bespoke clothes. Maybe this applies more to the men in Vienna than to other parts of the country, but in that city the number of bespoke makers speaks for itself.
In this shopping guide I will focus on shops in Vienna that sell ready-made clothing because this is what most visitors will be after when visiting for a weekend, or a couple of days during the week. These shops sell fewer things that are uniquely Austrian or Viennese, but there is still usually something special about the way brands are chosen, mixed and presented. In this sense Vienna offers a very special shopping experience.
You can find 95% of the recommendations in the inner city. This means that in one day you could visit all the places, even if it’s just to look in the window. Unless of course you stop for coffee and pastry, wine or beer. But mind the tourist traps – some of the famous caféhäuser are very overpriced.
This doesn’t apply to the shops listed here, however. None of them are focused on foreign visitors, they all have a strong local client base. So if you want to get a taste of real Viennese life, this shops are a great starting point.
Classic style
Knize
Without doubt Vienna’s most famous address both locally and internationally.
The name of the company (the pronunciation is hard to describe in English because it is Czech, it sounds something like ‘kay-needge’) goes back to a master tailor from Bohemia, who took over a well-established shop in 1858 and continued under his name.
The owner, Rudolf Niedersüß, joined the company as a cutter and took over in 1976. Under his reign RTW suits, sportswear, accessories and shoes were added to the core bespoke tailoring.
Knize’s tailoring department is tiny now compared to the old days but as long as Rudolf Niedersüß can handle shears, chalk and tape measure he will keep up the tradition of being Vienna’s most prestigious and expensive bespoke tailor (though rumour has it that customers are charged in perpetuity the price they start with).
The RTW suits, jackets, trousers and coats are made in Italy in Knize’s house style, the cut and making are excellent, and they are a very good alternative to the tailoring. The range of knitwear and shirts is also very good and it has become known internationally for its house fragrances.
Graben 13, 1010 Wien
Zum Jockey Club
The quintessential little shirt shop, haberdasher and tailor. Founded in 1913 and situated in the heart of the central shopping area, just a minute from the famous Albertina, this has been a favourite place for generations of Viennese gentleman.
Helmut-Zilk-Platz 7, 1010 Wien
Jungmann & Neffe
This fabric shop is one of Vienna’s most famous menswear addresses, located close to the Opera, the Albertina Museum and the Sacher hotel. The cloths are mainly British and the selection is vast.
Originally founded as a fabric emporium for ladies dresses in 1873, the company switched to men’s fabrics from England and Scotland after the abolition of the Monarchy in 1919. If you want to see what Empress Elizabeth – aka ‘Sisi’ – picked for her ball gowns it’s all there in the archives.
In addition to fabrics there is a very comprehensive selection of neckwear, mostly made exclusively for the house. You will also find various accessories including umbrellas from Maglia in Milan.
The Czech tailor Hartl from Prague has trunk shows there every week. For more than 20 years he has been seeing his Viennese customers in the company’s fitting room, securing steady fabric sales.
Albertinaplatz 3, 1010 Wien
Gino Venturini
Bespoke shirtmaker and men’s outfitter run by Nicolas Venturini, the second generation; his father Eugenio ‘Gino’ Venturini came from Trieste, which explains the Italian name.
The shop’s size is similar to E Marinella in Naples and it often becomes rather crowded. Venturini offers a collection of knitwear, trousers, socks, leather jackets and all kinds of accessories, all sourced by himself, mostly in Italy.
The shop is adapted to sartorial tourists, as they can produce a toile fitting overnight or sometimes even quicker, which allows for bespoke orders even if a stay in Vienna is short. The fabric collection is huge and the shirts are made in their own workshop outside town. Excellent value for money.
Spiegelgasse 9, 1010 Wien
Macho Style
Ignore the dust on the shoes and tweed jackets in the window. If you wish to go back to the late 1980s and enjoy the Sloaney atmosphere of a Chelsea-based shoe and countrywear shop, these two tiny shops are a must.
You’ll find a nice range of Tricker’s shoes and other Goodyear-welted and Veldtschoen footwear, beef-roll loafers from the US and a very charming collection of tweed jackets, overcoats, hats and caps, trousers and ties.
Seilerstätte 18-20 1010 Wien
Stepanek Herrenmode
Classic men’s outfitter next to the new and fashionable Amauris Hotel, and very close to the famous Café Schwarzenberg.
Originally founded in 1890 it is now run by Nikola and Zora Jovanović. The couple offer an elegant, continental version of English style with slight Austrian and Italian accents. The collection includes shoes and handmade briefcases and purses from their own brand.
Kärtner Ring 6, 1010 Wien
Malowan
Not spectacular at first sight but long established, Malawian was founded in 1823 and became purveyor to the Imperial court in 1897. In the 1970s the old interior was replaced by a contemporary design.
It remains popular both with older customers and menswear rookies because the present owner Manfred Markowski freely gives advice. You can always find good suits, jackets and overcoats off-the-rack made from good quality fabrics. They stock all sizes and their own tailor is happy to make alterations quickly for visitors.
Opernring 23, 1010 Wien
Modern men’s outfitters
Even though Vienna is often perceived as a place for timeless style, there are lots of men who love contemporary sportswear and Italian casual clothes. So if you want to find a big range of those brands these are the places for you:
PAUL Vienna
Kärntner Straße 14, 1010 Wien
Sir Anthony
Kärntner Straße 21-23, 1010 Wien
Elmar Garzon
Naglergasse 19, 1010 Wien
Aetmen
Neubaugasse 76, 1070 Wien
However, among these shops selling contemporary Italian style and modern sportswear there are two that stick out, at least in my opinion:
Dantendorfer
Founded in 1948 with shops in Salzburg and Vienna, Dantendorfer represents the continental European idea of sophistication in menswear (even though they also sell ladies’ fashion).
The owners describe themselves as collectors of fashion, and their job to be travelling around looking for new, beautiful things. In recent years the collection has become more mainstream but still on a very high level. The list of brands is long and the selection tasteful.
Weihburggasse 9, 1010 Wien
Anton Meyer
The Vienna branch of a German outfitter founded in Hamburg (with branches in Frankfurt and Munich and an online shop) which has been well received by locals, despite the fact that Austrians are usually not too fond of Germans.
Anton Meyer offers a complete collection, reminiscent of Hackett in the late 1990s. Every piece is designed by the two owners in Hamburg and made in Portugal from good Italian and English fabrics.
Even though this is not a Viennese shop it is attractive for visitors from the UK because the collection is smart and timeless, and a good representation of the continental view of English style.
Spiegelgasse 8, 1010 Wien
Traditional Austrian clothing
The best-dressed men in Vienna usually mix local bespoke tailoring and shoemaking, English or Italian RTW, and elements from traditional Austrian folk dress or tracht. Tracht is also everyday wear in the country and for hunters, Sunday best for church, wedding attire and formal wear.
Vienna and Salzburg are the best cities in Austria to shop for tracht, especially if you’re looking for the best quality and smarter versions of it. Two very famous addresses are Loden Plankl and Tostmann Trachten. Most of the clothes offered there are made in Austria, sometimes even in the company’s own workshop.
Loden Plankl
Michaelerplatz 6, 1010
Tostmann Trachten
Schottengasse 3-3a, Wien
Then there is the last maker of bespoke lederhosen, deerskin riding breeches and all types of other leather garments, Alexander Profous.
Even if you don’t order anything because the fitting of a toile is required, a visit is recommendable. Everything is made on the premises and the owner is usually willing to spare a minute for visitors.
Fittings, garments waiting for repair, finished pieces and paper patterns can be seen in the front room. And you never know, you might be tempted to order something after all.
Alexander Profous
Grünangergasse 12, 1010 Wien
Shoes
Alexander
Alt Wien is a brand for Goodyear-welted RTW shoes built on Viennese lasts. It was founded in 1981 by Peter Mughrabi. It has always been an open secret that the shoes are made by Crockett & Jones.
The big days for Alt Wien were the 80s and 90s when the brand was successful in Austria, Germany, the Benelux and France. Nowadays Alt Wien is very much a niche product; if you like this style you should bring an extra empty suitcase to Vienna.
Alexander offers a huge selection of the shoes and very good advice, plus a small but tasteful collection of clothes and accessories.
Rauhensteingasse 3, 1010 Wien
Ludwig Reiter
The only Viennee shoes that are actually made in Austria (with the exception of bespoke) are sold in Ludwig Reiter’s shops in the historic centre of the Austrian capital and outside town in the factory shop on the grounds of the headquarters at Süßenbrunn Estate.
Ludwig Reiter has managed to adapt the style of their Goodyear-welted shoes to changing tastes in timeless footwear. When the present owner Till Reiter took over the company in 1985 (the 4th generation to do so) the shoes looked more like bespoke footwear from Vienna.
In addition to welted shoes from their own factory they well Italian-made bags and small leather goods.
Führichgasse 6, 1010 Wien
Factory shop:
Weingartenallee 2, 1220 Wien-Süßenbrunn
Materna
One of Vienna’s most famous bespoke shoemakers, located just around the corner from the Bristol hotel and Opera house.
Foreign visitors often don’t enter because they don’t have time for a bespoke order. But do go inside, have a look at the samples and then ask if any RTW shoes are available in your size.
Materna makes a small amount of RTW in their bespoke workshop but they don’t advertise them. This is your chance to get pair of very Austrian handmade shoes in Vienna.
Mahlerstr. 5, 1010 Wien
Bellas Vienna
Originally founded as a brand for comfy but very smart, ballerina-type ladies’ shoes, Bellas now also offers a small collection of men’s loafers.
The basic idea of the ladies’ collection, which could be summed up as aristocratic old-money smart-casual elegance, has been transferred to men’s shoes.
Dorotheergasse 5, 1010 Wien
Roberto & Sons
This shop is very popular both with both locals and tourists because the shoes offer good value for money and there is a very friendly service.
Roberto & Sons offers a small but appealing collection of classic Goodyear-welted shoes made in Spain and Italy either on Viennese or English looking lasts. The shop is family owned, now in its third generation. The shoes are also sold online in case you want to buy more later.
Flagshipstore Wien: Spiegelgasse 6, 1010 Wien
Accessories
Thomas Riemer
Visiting Vienna is an excellent opportunity to find good hand-sewn gloves. The most renowned maker in the city today is Thomas Riemer. He supplies many shops in Europe but also sells his gloves directly.
Thomas’s father Erwin owned a company making fashion and sports gloves, the latter with great success in the 1960s-1980s. Thomas started working with his father in 2000. When Erwin Riemer died in 2001 the company was closed.
In 2007 Thomas was offered the change to take over Vienna’s oldest glove shop, he agreed, but decided to ditch the old Italian suppliers and produce his own gloves using his father’s patterns. He opened a workshop in Hungary and produces gloves today both for this shop and for wholesale.
Today Thomas Riemer gloves are sold in 150 shops in a dozen countries, but the most charming place to buy is probably the tiny shop in Schottengasse.
Schottengasse 2, 1010 Wien
Nagy Hüte
Traditional hat shops are a common sight in continental Europe and Austria is no exception.
Nagy (Nagy is Hungarian and prounouced ‘nodge’) Hüte is very typical in the sense that about 80% of the headwear offered is not to the taste of men who love timeless fashion. But if you look closely at the shelves you will find a very good selection of classic shapes made of wool or fur felt, and of different types of straw.
Traditional Austrian hats to go with your Hubertus coat are of course also available in green, black, navy, brown or grey. Both branches are recommended.
Wollzeile 36, 1010 Wien
Schottengasse 3/ 3a, 1010 Wien
Mühlbauer
If your taste for hats goes beyond the fedora or trilby, or if you want handmade headwear with an eccentric shape, this is your hat shop.
Mühlbauer was founded in 1903 and everything is still handmade in Vienna. The designs are mostly very progressive and arty, but you do find styles to match a timeless wardrobe, like the summer hats ‘Graf Theo’ or the traveller hat ‘Art Will’ made of raffia straw.
Neubaugasse 34, 1070 Wien
Seilergasse 10, 1010 Wien
Szaszi Hüte
This is a maker of bespoke hats, completely handmade, but you might be lucky and find something from the stock of never-collected bespoke commissions.
The owner is Shmuel Shapira; he became a hat maker late in life when he took over an old hat shop and learned the trade in order to continue the business.
Mariahilferstr. 4
1070 Wien
R Kappeller
If you like knives and want to bring something home that is made in Vienna you should pay a visit to this small shop. The company was founded in Salzburg in 2016; the shop in Vienna opened in 2019. Knives in all shapes and sizes are on offer.
If you plan well ahead you could attend courses where you make your own knife, learn how to sharpen it or how to make a leather belt.
www.messermacher.at
Rauhensteingasse 5, 1010 Wien
Robert Horn
A local hero in terms of small leather goods, now with three shops in Vienna. Founder Robert Horn was famous for wearing Bermuda shorts in summer with a jacket, tie, knee-length socks and bespoke lace-ups.
Every piece is designed and made locally in the company’s own workshop, in the tradition of the Viennese avant garde of the turn from the 19th to 20th century. Bespoke pieces can be commissioned on request.
Herrengasse 6-8 (at Michaelerplatz)
Stephansplatz 3 (corner of Churhausgasse)
Bräunerstrasse 7, 1010 Wien
Bespoke
Vienna is truly one of the bespoke capitals of Europe, with an impressive list of tailors, shirtmakers and shoemakers. In addition to the addresses listed below locals will usually name more craftsmen working in less central parts of town or from home.
All artisans listed here work in the way typical of continental Europe, with the owner making everything himself, sometimes with the help of employees.
Visitors usually hesitate to commission a bespoke piece because it would be necessary to return for fittings, but the level of style and workmanship offered does make it worthwhile considering coming back with a cheap flight for the fittings.
Bespoke tailors
Knize
Graben 13, 1010 Wien
Niedersuesz
Annagasse 1, 1010 Wien
Kastner & Dronia
Annagasse 5/2/10, 1010 Wien
Ruth Sprenger
Liebiggasse 4/7, 1010 Wien
Zoltan Roeszler
Bankgasse 1, 1010 Wien
Hedi Rochowanski
www.instagram.com/hedi_rochowanski
Albertgasse 54/ 1a, 1080 Wien
Netousek
Gumpendorfer Str. 17, 1060 Wien
Michael Possanner
Saarplatz 4, 1190 Wien
Josef Blecha
Amerlingstraße 3, 1060 Wien
David Kuderer
Windmühlgasse 20/61, 1060 Wien
Bespoke shirtmakers
Gino Venturini
Spiegelgasse 9, 1010 Wien
Jockey Club
Helmut-Zilk-Platz 7, 1010 Wien
Wäscheflott
Bespoke shirts and nightwear.
Augustinerstraße 7, 1010 Wien
Maßhemden Spulak
Maurer Lange Gasse 22, 1230 Wien
Maßhemden Werle
Rosa-Luxemburg-Gasse 5, 1160
Bespoke shoes
Scheer
Bräunerstr. 4, 1010 Wien
Materna
Mahlerstr. 5, 1010 Wien
Petkov
Mahlerstr. 5, 1010 Wien
Thomas Schikola
Singerstr. 14, 1010 Wien
Raz Maftei
Dorotheergasse, 1010 Wien
Maftei Vienna
Kühnplatz 6, 1040 Wien
Harald Kammel
Kahlenbergerstr. 41, 1190 Wien
For more on the tradition of Austro-Hungarian shoemaking and what makes it unique, see previous article here. Tostmann images courtesy of Michael Maritsch @Michael-Maritsch
This is an impressive article indeed. Is this an update or an entirely new addition to the city shopping guides?
A new addition
To think that beautiful Vienna has all this sartorial talent only adds immensely to the beauty of this former imperial city with it’s equally classical musical, architectural, culinary and dare I say equestrian talent!
Haha, my thinking exactly!
Brilliant !
The fact it mentions shoppers beyond the tourist trail is welcome .
This article is something I thought I didn’t need but now I’m yearning to visit Wien.
Having read it I immediately clicked on the London shopping guide . I think now we need an update to the London one of lesser known tailors, shops etc
I can concur with that
I agree totally! Bernhard Roetzel. and Bruce Boyer are my favourite menswear writers. Both have a classic style and they have had a huge influence on me. Their knowledge is astounding and very valuable. This comprehensive guide could have beem split into three parts. `There is so much information to absorb and lots of websites to visit. Wow!
Dear Kent, thank you for your feedback and your kind remarks.
If I may add: https://www.whitefeathermfg.com/
Excellent workwear shop with Japanese denim and workwear. Will also sell Bryceland’s soon. The owner is charming and really knows his stuff.
I was also going to mention Whitefeather. Excellent to hear that they are going to sell Bryceland’s soon!
As Simon mentioned in another comment that the focus of the article isn’t on multibrand stores, I thought I’d add that Whitefeather also have their own range which is all made in Vienna.
Thanks Alistair
Yes, certainly. I was there twice and truly impressed. Currently Buzz Rickson and Warehouse are their main brands (with many others).
Thank you Bernhard for this article. As a Viennese, there are so many good recommendations that I previously only knew from hearsay. It will be a pleasure to try them (and not good on my wallet).
Simon, I know your readers are mainly from English speaking countries, but I find it refreshing that other places are mentioned too. More of this please. I feel that Germany and Spain are particularly undervalued on your blog, and maybe even France.
Thank you, Markus. Positive feedback from locals is highly appreciated. I was lucky to get some valuable hints when I planned my visit.
Another personal recommendation for hats is Gut Behütet. The owner is an absolute gem and the hats are of nice quality. Classic Panamas, straw hats, flat caps but also beautiful women’s hats if you need a reason to convice your wife.
And totally mssing on this list is Sartale. The owner is an Italian with great taste. Of course with a heavy focus on Italian luxury tailoring brands but also some high end British stuff. Bontoni, Loro Piana, DePetrillo, Kiton, Attolini, Orazio Luciano, Finamore, John Lobb and many more all in one store.
Thanks Teekay – the emphasis for these guides is less on multibrand stores like that one. The main reason being that it’s supposed to be for non-Viennese travelling to the city, who are therefore most interested in destination shops, brands they can only buy there. That brand range is great, but many are available elsewhere as well and we can’t include everything
I understand. There are multiple on this list though to which that applies as well. But I do get where you’re coming from.
Sartale does not exist anymore.
I think it does but only online.
Martin, is that true? Last time I’ve been there was last year. What a shame.
The shop is definitely closed, I went by last week.
They told me they will reopen soon.
They are worth a mention as they source some great taste and tough to find stuff such as Svevo knitwear and De Petrillo handmade stuff.
About 10 years ago I bought a Loden overcoat from Loden Plankl. It’s still going strong and very warm. It’s so generously cut it’s great for wrapping round me when sat down in the cold. It has a zip out blanket liner and I think it was €350, which I think was very reasonable for them amount of coat I got. I remember the staff being very helpful and patient with my poor German and offered to alter the sleeves free of charge.
It’s an interesting point you bring up. Is it really necessary to speak German to visit these places?
No it was more me trying to practice my German rather than them not speaking English.
No
Vienna is used to visitors from English speaking countries and salespeople in places like Loden Plankl all speak English well. You must expect some degree of Arnold Schwarzenegger accent though.
Herr Till Reiter was always very friendly and helpful when I wrote him letters asking about the Reiter one-strapped Monk and so on.
It seemed to me that the external Reiter shoe design is very beautiful and so finely sensitive.
I remember the Reiter brochure mentioned how Reiter design fit into the history of art in Vienna (Wien).
Many Austrian artists such as Ingo Nussbaumer, who reproduced all of Goethe’s colour experiments – as well as discovering something Goethe seems to have overlooked – as foundation for his objective book comparing colour theory by Goethe with Newton’s, comes from a small town St Nikolai ob Drossling between Graz and the border to Slovenia, after philosophy study in Salzburg moved to paint and research in Vienna.
I can imagine learning German in Vienna, which Rudolf Steiner described as especially suited to music, would be quite enjoyable.
An important part of English and German vocabulary is cognate:
thank – dank,
think – think,
horse – Ross?
Slavic roots robota concealed in German arbeit, graniza in German Grenze (border).
KuK Budapester.
Minor observation: Loden Plankl is spelled without the last “L” (Loden Plank) in the article.
Thank you. Updated now
Hi Simon, I think it would be interesting to do one of these on Rome. Rome has at least three top notch tailors that come to mind off the top of my head and more interesting independent retailers than Milan, for example. The latter may be because rents are much less expensive making it possible for independent retail to survive.
Good point Andrew. I was actually planning one after my trip there last year, which prompted our pieces on Schostal, Bomba, Dede, Giuliva, Bocache etc
Hello, which three tailors?
I find this guide a little superficial compared to those written by Simon. It seems like Mr. Roetzel has included many artisans on the basis of hearsay.
I don’t think that’s probably fair Martin, it includes a lot more places than my guides usually do, but the information is perhaps a little briefer as a result. See comment above asking for the opposite from my guides for example.
But do please add personal experiences of your own on the destinations if you have them, or ask Bernhard for specifics and more thoughts.
If my comment sounded too harsh I apologize. There really are some interesting suggestions in this text. But I have had commissions go wrong with three of the artisans you recommend and therefore become a little suspicious. It all happened a few years ago so maybe things have improved. One exchange was almost funny: a bespoke shirt had been made with the arms 3 or 4 cm too short (after washing) and when I showed it to the shirtmaker she told me I needed to stretch the arms while ironing them.
No problem Martin – experiences like that are very useful and welcome too
Would be curious to know which places had things go wrong, as. Vienna Resident myself…
Afaik he knows most of these. But his writing is a bit more neutral, I agree.
Dear Martin, thank you for your comment.
The focus of this article was not on bespoke makers because most visitors are not willing to come back for fittings. This is why some artisans have been listed only without any further comments.
The artisans that have been described in more detail (yet also only briefly) are the ones that either offer rtw or accessories (like Materna who offers a small range of rtw shoes that are made in his workshop alongside the bespoke shoes) or artisans adapted to visitors (like Gino Venturini who offers to make try-on shirts in one day or over night).
I have used information gathered from friends (what one could call “hearsay”) who have tried the artisans that I haven’t ordered from myself so far.
I found your article very useful as a jumping-off point for further research into artisans that I would not have known about. It is easy to see the websites to narrow down choices based on what you like. For example, the house styles of Possanner and Kuderer are extremely different — depending on what someone likes, a reader would investigate one or the other further but not both.
and if one were after a thick loden overcoat where would you head?
I would look at the range of Loden Plankl first of all. If heavy Loden is not part of the range one could consider a special order. Or you could try to find a very heavy Loden fabric at Jungmann and have it made up by a tailor.
“Vienna is very different in many ways from London… Anton Meyer offers a complete collection, reminiscent of Hackett in the late 1990s”.
I shopped in Hackett up to around the mid-noughties but the brand has declined steadily since then. The same could be said about New & Lingwood (especially shirts), Gieves & Hawkes (RTW), Turnbull & Asser (tailoring), Hilditch & Key, Thomas Pink, TM Lewin and other brands covered in Bernhard’s books. Some have gone bust too. I’d love to read his views on the current state of menswear brands in London.
In which sense have New & Lingwood, Turnball & Asser and Hilditch & Key declined?
New & Lingwood was indeed wonderful under Director Justin Sumrie, now at Cordings – who has excellent sartorial judgment in my humble opinion.
They have declined in terms of quality and fit, especialiy the shirts. H&K closed its factory in Fife and moved production to Bergamo in Italy. The cut and cloths are very inferior.
N&L is a pitiful (or should that be Pittiful?) shadow of the brand of the 80s and 90s. It has ditched its classic shirt collar shape and the cloths are awful. The range of tailoring, especially the suits that were loved by so many bankera and lawyers, is much narrowe and more fashion forwardr. Prices have risen dramtically in recent years.
I am equally concerned by the current direction of Cordings.- especially the classic trousers such as the cotton chinos. The traditional chinos (especially those with button flies) are being phased out. The choice of chino, cord amd moleskin colours has narrowed dramatically. Production has been moved to Italy. I just pray that Cordings, under Justin Sumrie, does not go the same way as New & Lingwood.
Just my two cents as an Austrian who lives in Vienna:
-“Austrians are still very fond of titles.” That depends, we’re most definitely not fond of aristocratic titles, unless you’re talking to wannabe-upperclass ÖVP voters. People here are however very fond of academic titles, as those are legally considered part of your name.
-I think Alexander closed down years ago.
Good points, and funny! Thanks!
Alexander still has the smaller shop on the same street. Focus on shoes and some limited clothing options incl. some Orazio Luciano, Ralph Lauren, Scottish knitwear, and suede bombers.
As an Austrian who has lived in Vienna for 25 years, permit me to add the following:
Aristocratic titles were abolished in Austria in 1918. Unlike in Germany, where aristocratic titles have lost their legal significance but may still be used, their use has been prohibited in Austria since 1919. That is why there are no longer any names with ‘von’ in Austria, or any people who are allowed to call themselves baron, count, etc. This rule is adhered to, and it would now be rather ridiculous for an Austrian to call himself “Baron von xx” or “Count von xx”.
Academic titles have also lost much of their significance. For example, I have a Dr. title, but I would never refer to myself as such when signing my name or introducing myself. However, it is listed on the homepage of my law firm and some people still address me that way, especially in writing.
Knize’s custom of charging customers (in perpetuity) the price they start with is a wonderful marketing idea to get lifelong clients.
Thomas Riemer also sells beautiful goat suede travel bags made in Hungary. I own four and the quality is spectacular. They are carry on size. The suede is very tough and has held up well on many European trips. I have both the top load duffle & the zip around which opens “clam shell” style similar to Metier’s Weekend Closer. The full zip around has two identical size compartments and is wonderful. Very functional and a style of bag difficult to find elsewhere at the price point they offer. Can’t recommend their bags enough. If in need of another carry-on I doubt I would look elsewhere.
Nice one but surprised you didn’t mention Napoleon had his suits made at Knize.
Nice.
I love Mühlbauer’s hats. I have purchased several Fold-up Beanie’s, lamb skin. One time the hat was too large, ordered on their website from London, and I exchange it for the correct size no problem. Their hats are fun yet serious–worth checking out.
I wonder if any of the fine Viennese sartorial establishments referred here ever reflect on what happened to most of the original Jewish tailors, shop owners after 1938? Or are they just “a detail of history” as Jean-Marie Le Pen of France claimed ?
Very good and important question.
Georg Gaugusch, the owner of Jungmann & Neffe is a historian and he has published an impressive book about the Jewish families of Vienna and what has become of them. He would be able to tell you a lot.
The story of Knize’s original Jewish owner is well documented but it would worth the while to research other businesses.
Is there any possibility of covering some of Vienna’s bespoke tailors in future (perhaps through a guest blog)? From what I can find online (such as the article below on Bernhard’s own blog on a blazer from Michael Possaner) the style is distinct enough from other tailoring traditions to merit its own coverage. The way Bernhard describes Possaner’s style as soft but formal sounds particularly appealing.
https://feineherr.de/mein-wiener-blazer-von-possaner/
Perhaps Alan, yes I can see that could be nice
I second Alan’s recommendation!
Alan, this article might interest you:
https://www.parisiangentleman.com/blog/an-epic-sartorial-walk-through-the-city-of-vienna
Dear Mr Roetzel,
thank you once again for this entertaining and insightful article. From your contributions on „Der feine Herr“ I conclude that besides your preference for English country style you seem to have a soft spot for Viennese style.
I want to add a pair of shoes to my collection and I assume that some scotch grain leather Norwegian derbies or some black derbies with Wiener cap will work well with my winter wardrobe of flannel trousers and suits, correct?
Regarding Alt-Wien you state „if you like this style you should bring an extra empty suitcase“. Is their style in any way special, like for instance boxier than Ludwig Reiter or Vass? Or are you referring to the Austro-Hungarian shoe style in general.
Viele Grüße!
Dear DS,
thanks fory your comment.
I would describe Alt Wien as more traditionally Viennese compared to Ludwig Reiter. Ludwig Reiter has become more commercial in the sense that they have regularly updated their last shapes to the taste of the times.
Alt Wien is more like Ludwig Reiter used to be 30 years ago (just like C & J is today very different from what it used to be 30 years ago). Alt Wien also offers a bigger selection of traditional styles.
I find the Viennese styles of Vass very appealing and even more traditional than Alt Wien. I also like about Vass that they are made in Middle Europe while Alt Wien has always been made in England (with a constant high level of making).
I would have a look at the rtw shoes offered by Materna and you could also consider the woodpegged shoes from Handmacher which I find to offer very good value for money.
If you visit Maftei at Kühnplatz you may be lucky to find a pair of rtw shoes that you like. They have made rtw once in a while and I have seen some very good ones there, all made in their bespoke workshop.
Viele Grüße
Bernhard
Hi Bernhard. Wanted to give you an update on this. After all I ended up buying a pair of scotch grain Norwegers with a vibram style sole from Ludwig Reiter in their Führiggasse store. While Vass might be very attractive in terms of traditional lasts and value for money, Ludwig Reiter are simply more accessible. With their network of branches across Austria and Germany, this for me puts them ahead of English and Italian brands which you can mostly only blind buy online in our countries. Also: Having various lasts from
traditional to contemporary is not a bad thing at all. Their Hungarian last for instance can look unusual on some men.
Only other thing I might try one day in the future is trying a higher level of price and make and try Materna RTW or Saint Crispin‘s.
Best regards
Nice reference point. Would just correct that Elmar Garzon focuses on MTM. Yet to try but looks nice and fairly priced.
The “not too fond of Germans” remark made me smile.
Great to see Bernhard’s writing again. His books are always a pleasure to read or refer to. The first paragraph is wonderful; it sets the scene, informs and answers the empirical question of the Capital’s proportionality. The following lists are fullsome and descriptive – worth a read even if not visiting. Thank you.
As a Brit who has been visiting Vienna for many years now, I recognise a lot of the names mentioned in this article as I have wandered through many of these places as have been fortunate to randomly come across some of them. This article is great in that it shows which places are worth looking into; as it stands, I’m currently getting a bespoke pair of seamless wholecut shoes made by Alexandru Maftei at a price that cannot be matched by anyone I know in the UK! I believe as a value proposition, Vienna would seem to be well worth checking out for anyone looking for quality at a good price.
Maftei is the best. Always confused but he makes wonderful shoes.
An excellent, full account for the Vienna-bound traveler. Bravo! As a university student back in the 1980s I was struck by the quiet elegance of Viennese society and made it a point to return for inspiration as often as possible. A fan of Herr R’s Gentleman since it first appeared so long ago now, it was the more recent edition that singled out the Viennese sartorial tradition that convinced me to focus on pursuing the stylistic coherence offer in Vienna — here one can put together ensembles that are fully hand-cut and -stitched, from the natural shoulders of the suit jacket to shirt, necktie, pochette, and shoes. There’s a physiological realism in Viennese tailoring that embraces traditional elegance and comfort, involving no sacrifice to either. And in no other metropolis does one encounter such a fine balance between country elegance and urbane formality — in the Domplatz or in high-end restaurant. Many thanks for this; I’m all the more eager for a return trip!
Hi Everyone,
This is a wonderful overview of the sartorial options in Vienna, thank you for putting this and the other city guides together. I wanted to contribute a few recommendations:
1] Hartmann Optik, Opticians. While not strictly sartorial, eyewear is an often overlooked accessory that greatly affects our personal presentation. In the 1980s, the Hartmann family bought a huge stockpile of buffalo horn and have since become experts in making real horn glasses (I am pretty confident they are still family owned). I bought my first pair from them in 2003 (at that time I lived in Germany) and was visiting Vienna every few weeks for personal reasons. I had a new pair of horn glasses made in December 2024 while visiting for a few days (I now live overseas). I had my eye exam & selected new frames Tuesday, pickup Thursday, minor wear adjustment Friday. I had been back for repairs of the old one in between (the dog jumped on it and an arm cracked, etc), and over all these years the craftsmanship, eye exam (I emailed them for an appointment ahead of time), service, and response time has been bar none. https://www.hartmann-wien.at/en/home/. Note that I have no personal affiliation with the company whatsoever. They are in a beautiful store right around the corner of the cathedral (Stephansdom).
2] The Gentleman’s Gazette Youtube channel has produced a series of Vienna city guide videos, if you want to explore some of the companies mentioned above at greater depth. So far they released personal interviews with the owners of Knize, Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe, and Hedi Rochowanski, with more to come. I believe the founder of the channel, Raphael Schneider, a classic menswear geek, is also personally acquainted with Bernard Rötzel (thank you for your classic menswear book as well, it had been a personal introduction to a lot of sartorial knowledge for me). The interviews are very personal and offer some behind the scenes looks, history, and feel of the shops. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEK87cV62es
3] Side note: I am not sure if Budapest will get its own city guide. It is very well to do as a day trip from Vienna. It’s a bit over two hours each way by train (leave early, return after early dinner). E.g., I did this once to visit Laszlo Vass in Budapest while being in Vienna for a few days.
Thank you, Best Frank
As someone who has been living my whole life in this wonderful city I am so glad that there are enough sartorial enthusiasts like me for these shops to still exist and survive. Thank you for promoting this wonderful aspect of my hometown.
– Adrian
Hi Bernhard, (or Simon)
I was wondering what makes Austrian tailoring unique or distinct? And is it closer to English or Neapolitan tailoring? Relaxed or formal? Other than Tracht and Loden, are there specific suits that are unique to the region? Many thanks for any insights you might have.
John