arnys buttonhole
There haven’t been many people into the Arnys workshop since it was reopened under Berluti’s ownership. Indeed, there is still a ban on photography in the workshop itself, which seems a little odd given it is simply eight people sitting at the usual workbenches, stitching jackets together. 

The consultancy and cutting areas, however, have to be the most luxurious bespoke tailoring space in the world. Dark-wood panelling, deep leather chairs and cloth books bound with Berluti’s venezia leather lend it an opulent feel. Sliding glass doors separate the cutter – surrounded by basted jackets and hanging patterns – from the clients. 

arnys bespoke paris
One wall of the consultancy area is made of built-in wardrobes that house sample garments. Many tailors keep examples of their work on display; some even use sample pieces to give clients an idea of styles; but I have never seen a tailor with such an extensive wardrobe of potential suits, jackets and coats. Indeed, alongside one-button, two-button and double-breasted suits are an overcoat, a short, casual coat and a pair of jeans. Arnys/Berluti clients are clearly expected to have a range of things made bespoke.

arnys tailoring


The work itself is beautiful – top-stitched silk linings, Milanese buttonholes and delicately curved patch pockets. According to Jean-Francois, the head of the bespoke operation, the construction and cut is even softer than that of the Right Bank tailors we already know, such as Cifonelli, Smalto and Camps de Luca: “The Left Bank is characterised by a more relaxed, liberal attitude to life, which comes through in soft clothing, more colour and more creativity.” Men with experience of Arnys can tell me how true that is.

arnys bespoke arnys pocket
Jean-Francois, head cutter Karim and the whole bespoke team came over wholesale from Arnys, including Karim’s father Alfredo, who led it for many years and is still involved in much of the tailoring. I was never a bespoke customer of Arnys before the takeover, but the make and cut of the jackets seems to have continued unhindered, even if the Berluti aesthetic is rather different from Jean Grimbert’s free-spirited creations. 

As a relentless optimist, I also see a silver lining here for bespoke tailoring as a whole. Karim is travelling almost every week at the moment, visiting Berluti stores in London, China, Japan and elsewhere. Having a company like LVMH pushing this quality of bespoke tailoring globally has to be good for the industry, and a welcome change from ‘bespoke’ programmes offered by fashion houses, particularly in Italy. The growth Berluti bespoke shoemaking (post coming next week) could be similarly beneficial.

arnys bespoke jacket

 

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Anand

Simon, you say the aesthetic is different now, how does their house style differ from what they were doing before? Who was the head cutter previously?

I can’t remember a time when such a takeover was so lamented, the impression has been that arnys is dead. I have to say buying a bespoke suit for a shoe maker is somewhat embarrassing, especially a shoe maker which outsources it’s manufacture to an Italian factory.

Scott

Simon – did you decide to take the plunge and commission something? What informed your decision either way?

levantine

simon, will the prices be similar to west bank tailors?

Ian

Nice post. Fashion houses are now getti g into the high end male market of bespoke tailoring. Kudos to Berluti for taking over Arnys to provide such a service. Hermes also has a male bespoke service provided by Camps de Luca at an incredie mark-up. The other fashion house I have heard of that provides bespoke tailoring is Alfred Dunhill. Any idea which tailoring house does the bespoke suits for Alfred Dunhill?