Paris: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 up...
There are some interesting things going on in French menswear. Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Old England, Arnys) and accordin...
Paris: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 up...
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Hey Mo, I would be suspicious about bespoke at that price point, yes. To be honest, I think you're better off going for really good MTM at that price, rather than risking bespoke and it not turning out as you expected. I...
The subtlety of a suede jacket
Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashmere – but others ...
The subtlety of a suede jacket
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It says in the caption? All old Loro Piana...
Five tips on bespoke shoes
I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I know it’s the same as the f...
Five tips on bespoke shoes
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Absolutely Lindsay, there's lots of coverage around the site. Perhaps start with the post 'The bespoke shoemakers I have known' https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/10/the-shoemakers-i-have-known.html...
Berluti bespoke shoemaking, Paris
I think there’s a good chance that in the next 10 years, a lot of men around the world will come to know bespoke through Berluti. I visited the bespoke shoemaking and tailoring – under the Arnys banner – at the end of la...
Berluti bespoke shoemaking, Paris
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Thank you very much, and yes I had heard about the operation. What a wonderful thing to stumble across...
A bespoke tour of Paris – Corthay, Cifonell...
Read my one-day guide to bespoke operators in Paris in the latest article for Essence Lifestyle. Pictured, Pierre Corthay in typically playful mood.
A bespoke tour of Paris – Corthay, Cifonell...
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Your beautiful photos conjure memorable prose: "The French term for window shopping is 'leche-vitrines'--licking the plate glass. This requires perfect leisure, and our breakfast had used up most of the morning. Still we...
Arnys bespoke tailoring at Berluti
There haven’t been many people into the Arnys workshop since it was reopened under Berluti’s ownership. Indeed, there is still a ban on photography in the workshop itself, which seems a little odd given it is simply eight people s...
Arnys bespoke tailoring at Berluti
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Yes, a lot of them have done it over the years (such as Hermes, but only in very few stores and with different tailors). Problem is, when you add a fashion margin to a bespoke cost, you get those huge CdL mark-ups. Dunhi...
The growth of men’s bags – FT article
The growth of men’s bags as a sector is quite incredible. Menswear as a whole has outstripped women’s clothing for a few years now, as we’ve accepted the idea of buying better clothes and wearing them better. But while it grew 15% w...
The growth of men’s bags – FT article
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I think you clearly need a bag Ronnie, yes. If you want it quite casual, go for a tote bag. A leather one for work/town, and you can always get a nice canvas one if you want something more casual. Perhaps a backpack for ...
How to buy quality shoes
“If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up with flimsy things that look old ...
How to buy quality shoes
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I see... These are from Crockett&Jones’ Handgrade collections, and now I understand more specifically why you were saying even the hand grade is not at a similar level as the EG. Although the details are tiny, this...
Interview: Jean Grimbert, Arnys
In June this year, the LVMH group announced that it would be buying the Arnys menswear store on Rue de Sevres in Paris, and converting it into a branch of Berluti, which it has recently expanded into a full menswear brand. This was a crying shame. Ar...
Interview: Jean Grimbert, Arnys
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What a sad story. There was no place like Arnys on the planet...I will miss them and miss the substance and style they represented. I will also miss Bob...the house mascot....
PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan
You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it’s alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN magazine, which I am told by...
PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan
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Thanks, I certainly will. It will hopefully also be the topic of my third book, which I'm talking to publishers abou at the moment...
Shoe news: Cleverley, Edward Green, Berluti
A few bits and pieces from the past fortnight that deserve highlighting for shoe enthusiasts. Cleverley is introducing a limited edition Burgundy Calf Churchill shoe – the model first released as a separate limited edition last October – ...
Shoe news: Cleverley, Edward Green, Berluti
A few bits and pieces from the past fortnight that deserve highlighting for shoe enthusiasts. Cleverley is introducing a limited edition Burgundy Calf Churchill shoe – the model first released as a separate limited edi...
Altan shoes: primary colour
Altan is a small bespoke and ready-to-wear shoemaker in Paris, with three locations across the city. Old Mr Altan, the father of the boys currently running the business, trained with Berluti and Lobb. He still does bespoke, and makes some lovely mode...
Altan shoes: primary colour
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In the Kruger Park in South Africa, being strictly protected, the number of elephants from time to time surpasses the number the land can support. Careful culling is organized under the Park Rangers supervision, and skin...
Leather cycling shoes at Quoc Pham
Leather makes a lot of sense as a material for cycling shoes. It’s wind-resistant but breathable, sturdy if thick or reinforced, and moulds well when closely fitted. It’s only real disadvantage is its weight and – when compared to s...
Leather cycling shoes at Quoc Pham
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Maybe it's me, but I feel like these crossovers miss the point of the original product. Case in point, the Specialized Stumpy II. [http://www.bike24.com/images/products/p0416894.jpg] They take the top of a road cycling s...
Berluti repatination – the after shots
The after shots – Berluti Fil d’Ariane after a repatination from the guys in London. In hindsight I might have gone for slightly less contrast between the two colours down the sides of the shoe. I like the merging of the colours m...
Berluti repatination – the after shots
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Ladies and Gentlemen! I am pleased to inform you that Dandy Shoe Care, a new studio which offers exclusive care for all types of footwear, has opened. This stylish, luxurious service is not only for those with a passion ...
Shoes being re-patinated at Berluti
I watched my Berluti shoes being re-patinated last week. This is a service the company offers to anyone – they recommend that you take the shoes away, wear them half a dozen times (without polishing them) and bring them back in. It enables the ...
Shoes being re-patinated at Berluti
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I can recommend Steven Skippen's shoe shine and patination service at the London Hilton on Park Lane. His skills transformed my scuffed Gieves and Hawkes shotgun leather boots. All while I sat in a very comfortable leath...
Segun Adelaja: A tailor in an emporium
Segun Adelaja knows the industry. The day we met we ended up talking for a long time about the expansion of small brands like Berluti, their raw materials and supply chains. About what happens when a small company is bought out and how you manage qua...
Segun Adelaja: A tailor in an emporium
Segun Adelaja knows the industry. The day we met we ended up talking for a long time about the expansion of small brands like Berluti, their raw materials and supply chains. About what happens when a small company is bou...
Berluti polishing events, and luggage
The shoe polishing events that Berluti holds for its loyal customers are legendary. Started by Olga Berluti and nicknamed the Swann Club, it involves gentlemen taking over their beloved shoes, sitting at a dinner table in their cotton socks and polis...
Berluti polishing events, and luggage
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Hi Antonio, From what I've seen of these, the construction is good - very functional, nice materials. But it's hard to make a case for being worth the price, even on sale. It's so expensive, and most of that is the brand...
New Berluti line: Pierre
Every few of years Berluti comes out with a new line. In 2004, Olga III; in 2006, Demesures; this year it’s Pierre. I have to say it’s a lot more appealing to my tastes than some previous offerings. A very slim, classic line, it w...
New Berluti line: Pierre
Every few of years Berluti comes out with a new line. In 2004, Olga III; in 2006, Demesures; this year it’s Pierre. I have to say it’s a lot more appealing to my tastes than some previous offerings. A very slim, clas...
