In some ways this is the hardest of the shopping guides for me to write – I know so many places so well and have so much to say. Luckily, nearly every place here is also covered elsewhere on Permanent Style. So if you want to know more about any of the shops, have a quick search and you’ll find a lot more information. I’ve also linked every brand mentioned to the appropriate page on PS, to make that easier.
I haven’t included addresses, but as an experiment I’ve created a Google Map with everything on instead. Let me know if you can see that and it works OK. I think all you need to do is save the link and you can use it anytime.
As per usual with our shopping guides, we have focused on places that are unique to London, and that sell high-end menswear. There are no chains here, though if a brand has a few locations and this is the headquarters (eg Drake’s) then it will be included.
Do as ever chip in with your own recommendations. You can find the rest of our shopping guides here.
Mayfair
The Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery
The nice thing about London is that nearly everywhere is walkable, with the vast majority in and around Mayfair. There are then a few in Marylebone, but not much outside that.
Several of my personal favourites are even within a stone’s throw of each other. One of those is the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, the ready-to-wear outpost of the famous bespoke tailor. It is the most beautiful, welcoming shop, with lovely staff. The style is a little more towards the traditional, but there is a huge range and great quality throughout.
On the opposite side of the street is Connolly (above), which to my mind is everything a designer shop should be: truly luxurious in the clothing and environment, with knowledgeable staff and really interesting, original design. It puts all the big brands around the corner on Bond Street to shame. Keep an eye out for the shared-wardrobe collection at the back and then the more classic pieces downstairs.
Also on Clifford Street is the achingly tasteful Adret, brainchild of Adam Rogers. The clothes are loose, drapey and soft, and all made at the atelier in Indonesia. Price are high, so be prepared, but if the style is for you then it might be hard to resist. Also, they don’t sell online anywhere, so it’s a true destination.
Also on Clifford street, by the way, are the wonderful Perfumer H, whose headquarters are in Marylebone, and the London outpost of Parisian bespoke tailor Cifonneli.
Thom Sweeney started as a bespoke tailor but has expanded hugely into ready-to-wear. It’s not cheap, but the quality is consistent and the stripped-back palette of navy, white and grey makes it all very wearable and combinable (is that a word?). Expanding now into several locations in the US.
Drake’s has gone through a few changes in the past decade, but remains one of the most interesting menswear brands out there – and the best for updating and reinterpreting classic menswear. My favourite pieces are the outerwear usually, including the suede products, and given the higher prices these days, anything that feels like a unique piece of design.
We’re now on Savile Row, but before we get to the tailors, there are a couple of other shops worth mentioning. First is a great bag brand that we’ve covered on PS a fair bit – Bennett Winch. Made in the UK in great quality canvas, leather and brass hardware, they are great casual bags.
On the same side of the road is Gaziano & Girling, the Northampton shoemaker that makes very high-level shoes with often a slightly sharper aesthetic than its English contemporaries. It also offers bespoke and has a wide range of widths in store to try for the made-to-order service, which in some ways offers the best of both worlds.
On the same side of the street is the bespoke tailor Edward Sexton, though it is as known today for ready-to-wear as tailoring. Sadly Edward passed away last year, but Dominic and the team are continuing his distinct style, with its strong shoulders, silk shirts and generous trousers.
Bespoke tailors: Huntsman, Henry Poole, Anderson & Sheppard
I won’t include much on the bespoke tailors here, because this is really a shopping guide for a visitor coming for a brief holiday – not the multiple trips required to have anything bespoke made. This is also not the place to go into the various styles of the different tailors – for that, see my article listing the 60-odd ones I have used, and the analytical guide to the major styles.
Still, those that have bespoke made abroad by one of these tailors may want to visit the HQ and drink in the history, and others may want to simply see a little slice of Savile Row. For them, I would say the ones to visit are Henry Poole for its history, Huntsman for the very traditional look, and A&S round the corner for its beautiful shop (above).
Some other places in Mayfair worth recommending are Maison Bonnet, which is a superb glasses maker with an HQ is in Paris; Saman Amel, which now has a showroom here but is based in Stockholm; and Cordings, whose style is too old-fashioned for most but remains great value if you can find pieces you like.
The Burlington and Royal Arcades
London’s arcades are a charming aspect of shopping in the city, particularly as they often accommodate smaller menswear brands. Given they straddle Mayfair and St James’s, I’m giving them their own section in between the two.
The Burlington Arcade is the biggest and has a great selection of menswear stores alongside jewellery, watches and drink. The first menswear destination would probably be Baudoin & Lange though, which gained its reputation for the refined version of a Belgian loafer, known as the Sagan. Lightweight and soft, it has become a sartorial staple.
On the opposite side is the recently relaunched Swaine – a shortened version of the old Swaine, Adeney & Brigg. They still do good hard English leather cases, as well as umbrellas under the Brigg name. The bags will be a bit smart for some, but the craft and heritage has been maintained. There’s a larger shop on Bond Street too, if you want to see everything.
The same goes for Globe-Trotter, which is next. These board suitcases with leather straps are among the most attractive pieces of luggage you can get, and they’ve become more practical in recent years, with the addition of wheels and inbuilt handles. Good repair service on site.
On the other side is the Neapolitan tiemaker Marinella, which at this point probably has the biggest selection of handmade ties in London, certainly of the hand-rolled variety. If you wear and need a tie, it would be my first port of call.
The Scottish weaver and knitter (above), originally and enthusiastically covered on Permanent Style before they got into knitting, but now very good and successful at it. Look out for the cashmere shawl cardigans and the blanket range downstairs, which is less known but both diverse and the best quality out there.
Switching over to the Royal Arcade, there are two shops watching out for: Cleverley and Meyrowitz. Cleverley is best known as a bespoke shoemaker and that’s probably still its strength, even though there is a range of Northampton-made ready-made shoes.
One of London’s finest makers of glasses, with its own workshop just outside London. Small and focused, but with great staff that are particularly good at giving advice compared to most eyewear companies out there. A small selection of tortoiseshell.
The Piccadilly and Prince’s Arcades
When you cross over Piccadilly, somehow avoiding the distractions of The RA, Fortnum & Mason and Hatchards, you almost immediately line up with the Piccadilly Arcade. Which ends in Jermyn Street. It’s almost like London was made for a walking tour.
Santa Maria Novella on the corner of the Piccadilly Arcade is lovely, but it’s is a small outpost of the beautiful Florentine shop and twice the price. Instead go to the charming Budd (above), a shirtmaker and all round haberdasher that squeezes a big range of accessories like gloves and over-the-calf socks into a tiny space. Shirts are still cut upstairs.
Next to them is the Valet, which isn’t really a shop, more a cleaners and repairers. Still, given most people reading this will have travelled in, it’s good to know that this is the best place to take any high-end cleaning, pressing or polishing of shoes. There are many options, but this is the place that services most of Savile Row.
We’re not covering a full range of jewellery options here, but it’s worth mentioning Deakin & Francis as they are on the same route, still make in Birmingham, and lean more towards the menswear side of things – good cufflinks, rings and other little accessories.
At the end of the Arcade, New & Lingwood has two shops – one smaller one specialising in gowns and a larger one opposite that is a fairly full haberdashery. The gowns are rightly famous, beautiful and largely made on site. The haberdashery has improved in recent years and become more interesting and more tasteful – perhaps occupying some of the space left by Drake’s, without being as straight as someone like Ede & Ravenscroft.
In the Piccadilly Arcade there is also Jean Rousseau, which makes bespoke leather pieces including watch straps, and Favourbrook, known for its wedding attire and waistcoats.
One of the least-known of the Arcades is the Prince’s, on the same side of Piccadilly but further east. This hasn’t historically had that much interesting for menswear, but it does have the newly opened Arterton, which has a few interesting makers – Japanese hangers, Swedish shoecare products, Chinese-made shoes.
Jermyn Street
Traditionally the home of London’s shirtmakers, Jermyn Street is now more interesting for other menswear stores primarily, particularly shoemakers.
One shirtmaker that does remain is Turnbull & Asser, with a full haberdashery on Jermyn Street and a dedicated bespoke shop round the corner. Both are lovely buildings, and although the company has been through a few ups and downs in recent years, there is quite a range of product – the kind of thing it’s easy to take for granted in London, but you’d struggle to find elsewhere.
The only other shirtmaker worth noting today really. Emma runs a small operation but with a great taste level and slightly different aesthetic to the more traditional menswear shops. Lovely brushed cottons and linens as well as great dressing gowns. Ready to wear or bespoke.
Given how well known Edward Green is, it’s surprising this is the only store apart from Paris, and even this isn’t big. Worth a visit for anyone that likes the brand, and indeed very high-end English shoes in general. Further down the street is John Lobb – the Hermes-owned ready-to-wear one rather than the English bespoke operation.
Crocketts has several stores in London, including one in the Burlington Arcade and for some reason, two on Jermyn Street. The flagship is at 92 and is the biggest store there is. Great value, English-made shoes.
Smedley makes good-value fine-merino knitwear in the UK, and this is its biggest store. Have a search on PS for coverage of their factory – the oldest in the UK effectively, from the start of the Industrial Revolution. They also have a smaller outlet on Brook Street.
Elsewhere on Jermyn Street there is Tricker’s shoes, Barker and Loake. The latter two aren’t really at the quality level we cover on PS, but it demonstrates how many shoe options there are on this one street. There is also a branch of Sunspel at the other end of the road – a great brand for basics, and this is convenient.
St James’s Street
Walk to the western end of Jermyn Street and you hit Davidoff on the corner – great if you’re into your cigars – and turn left down St James’s Street. Here you have a few famous clubs, and two famous men’s shops: Lobb and Lock.
As mentioned, not the shoemaker that’s headquartered in Paris but makes in Northampton. No, this is the storied English bespoke maker, grinding lasts on site and with a fascinating archive of lasts and shoes. It feels like the epitome of English craft to a foreign visitor, with all its weathered furniture and quietly sceptical staff. Worth a mini tour if you can get one.
Close by, the most famous hatter in the country. Bate’s and Christy’s have faded somewhat, and the most famous Italian brand, Borsalino, has gone through more than one reincarnation, but Lock (above) continues on. Tourists love the experience of having a bowler hat made to their head shape with a conformateur. Indeed, I once showed this to someone on a tour, and they bought the hat “not to wear but to put on the wall – like a stuffed head”.
In the spirit of mentioning menswear-adjacent interests, it should also be said that the barbers on Jermyn Street and St James’s are worth a look – Taylor’s and DR Harris in particular. Lots of traditional accessories, scents and lotions. There is also Berry Bros at the end of the street – the wine equivalent of Lobb and Lock.
Marylebone
Chiltern Street in Marylebone has become a real menswear destination in the past 10 years, with the attractions being both the lower prices and the more interesting range of shops. The shop that started it all was really Trunk, and they’re been quite consistent in their offering of soft tailoring and accessories for a long time. Always worth stopping into.
John Simons (above) hasn’t always been here, but it has a much longer tradition than Trunk, being one of the first pushing American Ivy clothing in the UK. Today it also mixes in some vintage and some of its own brand clothing (as Trunk does too) and the clothes are always good value.
Next on this side of the street is Bryceland’s, the shop originally founded in Tokyo by Ethan Newton. Although this is not the HQ therefore, and there are other shops, it has such a menswear following that it’s really a destination in London. Great workwear but also great tailoring, and quite a few pieces that cross the two.
Cromford were here on Chiltern Street before anyone else, but for a long time they were a leather manufacturer without their own brand. Most coats are still made downstairs, however, and they are great value if you find a style you like. The team are also helpful on repairs and alterations when it comes to leather or suede.
Other shops on Chiltern Street worth mentioning are the running specialist Tracksmith, the gardening shop Niwaki, the cafe and shop of the magazine Monocle and the homewares specialist Labour & Wait just around the corner.
On the far western side of Marylebone – so closer to Oxford Street than anything else here – is William Crabtree, a lovely little shop that sells a lot of traditional British clothing: shetlands, cords, scarves and ties. They also do their own made-to-measure tailoring and jackets.
On the other side of Marylebone is Anglo-Italian, tucked away on its own down a side street. Since they opened, Anglo have become the default for a lot of people when it comes to solid tailoring, whether it’s a navy coat or a pair of grey flannels. But they also have quite a distinctive look, soft and loose with rounder toed shoes – something you see most when you look at the always consistently dressed staff.
Now this isn’t Marylebone anymore, it’s Fitzrovia, but you were walking in that direction anyway. And Clutch Cafe (below) is definitely a destination. Clutch has the biggest range of Japanese workwear brands in London, with the likes of Real McCoys, Cushman, Full Count and Buzz Rickson, plus French brands like Anatomica and more refined Japanese ones like Coherence. There is a lot to see, but for that reason always worth a browse.
Tailoring again, but combining a taste level in common with many of the brands we feature, and a lower price. That price comes across in the more entry-level quality of some of the clothing, but for those starting out Natalino is a really good option. Grew online for a long time before opening this, their first shop.
As we head from Fitzrovia down into Soho I’d also mention in passing the Margaret Howell sale shop, Rivet & Hide over in Bloomsbury for workwear, American Classics just off Carnaby Street for the same, on Newburgh Street, and the other menswear shops on the same street – Red Wing and RRL.
The East End
Shoreditch and surrounding areas have become a big destination for fashionable people and shops, but there isn’t that much menswear to speak of. Some of the exceptions are:
Son of a Stag – A definite exception, a great menswear store and one of the first that popularised a lot of selvedge denim and specialist Japanese makers.
Scott Fraser Collection – A lovely little shop on the same street is the fairly recently acquired home of Scott Fraser Collection, known for its modernist knits and association tailoring.
Vintage – There is a surprising lack of good vintage shopping in London, but most of what there is is on Brick Lane or around it. The purist is Lewison’s and House of Vintage often has a good selection, but after that the quality slides pretty quickly.
Taillour – We’re not mentioning tailors generally, but Fred Nieddu is one of our favourites and he has a lovely little workshop around the corner from here. Shoemaker Sebastian Tarek is downstairs.
Everywhere else
There are a few other places around London worth highlighting, though most are fortunately concentrated in those areas already mentioned. These are:
Speciale – A Florentine bespoke tailor with a lovely, distinctive selection of shirts, knitwear and ties. Rather out of the way over on the Portobello Road, but if you are going then perhaps go on a Friday when there is also some menswear vintage in the rest of the Portobello market. A few nice other cloth and vintage shops in the area too.
Blackhorse Lane – The London jeans maker (above) is in the new shopping development around King’s Cross, ‘Coal Drops Yard’. BHL are superb, both for their own jeans and for the repairs and alterations they do. Great made-to-measure service as well.
The rest of the development has some nice places to pop into – an MHL, a Universal Works, and perhaps the best outdoors shop in London, Outsiders.
40 Colori – A lovely little shop this, particularly good for made-to-measure knitwear, which precious few people do these days. Other MTM and MTO options are also available, including knit ties for instance. It’s on the lovely Lamb’s Conduit Street, which is not a standard tourist destination but a great place to wander and have lunch or a drink, at Noble Rot for instance.
Bentley’s – Apart from Mayfair, the biggest shopping area in London is probably Kensington, but there’s little to interest the craft-based menswear customer in that area. One exception is the antiques and vintage-luggage store Bentley’s, at the bottom of Sloane Street.
Other places I’d recommend for antiques like that, by the way, are the Pullman Gallery in St James’s, and Grays Antiques Market near Bond Street station.
Dunhill – Dunhill has been up and down many times in recent years, becoming slowly less distinctive and unsure where it sits between traditional menswear and modern fashion. Still, it seems odd not to mention it, given they are the biggest British luxury brand here and in such a lovely space – Bourdon House. Perhaps pop in on your way to Marylebone, if you find you have time.
Geo. F Trumper to join the barbers (& shaving kit)
Penhaligon’s?
And trad British to join Cordings – Oliver Brown & Buckleigh on Lower Sloane St. Both at about the same level, but the latter in particular for off the peg formal wear?
Yes on Trumper. Penhaligon’s is lower end and kind of commercialised, plus without the charm of those smaller barbers. Oliver Brown I wouldn’t necessarily say except for some categories like tebas
Oliver Brown is THE place to go if you want to buy or rent morning wear. for Royal Ascot or special ocassions like weddings. The shop also sells dinner and smoking jackets in a wide range of colours and cloths.
Sorry for the typo above. I’ll add that Oliver Brown seems to have stopped selling teba jackets. There may be the odd sale item left. Its Spanish bespoke tailor, who IIRC has since moved to Hackett on Savile Row, offered bespoke tebas. The only RTW teba stockist in London appears to be Cordings which has three options in stock, priced at £395.
Sorry to have to challenge Simon, but Penhaligon is the opposite of “lower end”, particularly when compared to Trumper, and it should be said it is no longer a barber.
On the subject of men’s grooming, D R Harris is worthy of mention too, and is the oldest of the three, having been established in 1790.
Thanks James – DR Harris is mentioned in the list.
I had a friend who worked at Penhaligon’s, it really was a very commercial set-up, geared to the mass market
Interesting. Not sure how that categorises it as lower end though.
IMO, in terms of quality Penhaligon’s doesn’t really compare to the likes of Frederic Malle, Perfumer H, Le Labo, or even Byredo (with whom they share a parent company), and in price they’re considerably cheaper too. They’re very much in the mainstream market alongside Jo Malone and other higher end designer brands.
A thought Marc. Jo Malone quality went south (her words, not mine) when Estee Lauder took control. Malle was founded in France. Byredo in Sweden. Le Labo is from Brooklyn. Penhaligon is British. Shouldn’t we celebrate that?
What a wonderful collection. London is indeed very special in this regard.
I’m not sure I understand your point on Penhaligon being lower end and commercialised. It held a Royal Warrant from Philip since the mid 50’s, and Charles since the mid 80’s. That Warrant was very recently reaffirmed in the name of the new King.
Alongside Penhaligon, the only other Warrant holders in their category are Floris and D R Harris.
Hey Frances,
Having a Royal Warrant isn’t a guarantee of quality, it’s just the brands the members of the Royal Family like. I’ve been to the garden party at Buckingham Palace for all of them and some are a little strange. Penhaligon’s is a big brand (51 stores) and the kind of place that has branches in shopping arcades and discount places like Bicester
Bit of an odd comment re Bicester. They also have spots in Harrods, Selfridges, Fortnum, as well as being in Paris, Hong Kong, Singapore, New York, the UAE, Shanghai.
Not strictly menswear (although they do carry some), but Holland and Holland in St James’ St is worth a visit just to see the craft on the gunsmith in its finest form.
True, for that kind of hunting world there are a good few places
James Purdy is the top one here in South Audley Street but really that’s another topic.
Agreed. There’s also William Evans in St James’s Street. Purdey in Mayfair is another obvious option but the prices of it’s clothing range have gone crazy. For shooting clothing, I’d recommend Farlow’s on Pall Mall for specialist brands such as Schoffel and Laksen.
This is a superb update and one I’ve been waiting for.
Also:-
St. James – TRUEFITT & HILL – barbours- shaving creams are superb!
Off Jermyn St & Curzon St Mayfair – TRUMPERS – Another great barbour
Bond Street – Rimowa Luggage
Off Topic but also on Bond Street- RICHARD GREEN – probably one of the finest places to buy artwork in London and astronomically expensive!
What about Mount Street which has a branch of an Italian Tailor and a few other fine shops, including luggage!
What about La Bowtique… and probably loads of others!
Thanks Lindsay.
Yes not including galleries, or showrooms generally like La Bowtique, more actual shops. Rimowa is a chain with other shops, Mount St has Rubinacci which you could include but there are others. Broadly I’m not sure Mount St is worth going to from a menswear perspective
Sorry, correct my spelling to barber please!
Wow, seeing it all laid out like this really brings home what a spectacular selection London offers. The proximity alone of Anderson and Shepard, Connolly, and Adret, is ridiculous really – three of the very finest shops in the world within 20 yards of each other! Interesting note on Dunhill – what have you made of their recent direction under Simon Holloway? For many of us I think Dunhill holds a special appeal, would love to see them back on song
Yes I know, it did for me too. Such density
Dunhill have shown some nice things recently, but also changed around a bit. I think it’s too early to tell on the direction – I just hope Simon is given more time than previous heads. It takes more than a few years to rebuild a traditional menswear brand, but too often somewhere like Dunhill is judged like a luxury brand with high-impact designers and similarly expected growth
I was expecting Luca Faloni to be mentioned in the Marylebone section, I notice they don’t really get a mention on your website any longer, have you “gone off ” them or do you not feel the quality is good?
Good point. The quality is OK still, but not the best we cover and they do have a lot of stores now so not the kind of place we’d include in a list like this as much
With many of the shop mentioned, I would still visit, even if I wasn’t intending to buy anything on the day, just because I love them.
Where as with Luca Faloni, I’d only go in , if I was planning to buy something. It would be the same with Sunspel too.
Appreciate you cannot encompass everywhere but I’d probably add Rivet and Hide if you have Son of a Stag.
Yes true, good point. They are moving which is one reason I didn’t. Could also have mentioned the P Johnson showroom – I think that’s still there
Final one – SEH Kelly?
Great resource and a few in the comments and content which I had not heard of so thanks.
Yes, they’re great but the studio isn’t really open regularly any more so it’s not much of a shop, more an online brand
I also must add that the mere survival of these unique shops in London and indeed any other city eg. James Lock Hatters is a very precious thing. Dege & Skinner is another one… more or less in original ownership.
As I’ve lamented before, it’s the great and original family owned shops , some maybe in business 200 years or more that are sadly now gone.
“Reinvention” is a bad and indeed a sad term that I’ve come across too many times.
Swaine and Asprey being two examples…and Burberry and many others. They are not the same great and original English Shops that they once were. Just let’s be honest now!
Bond Street for instance are now nearly all international brands.
I can remember nearly forty years ago when Bond Street had some very rare and unique shops, Cork Street and Savile Row and the surrounding streets had many more tailors…apprenticed in the old manor.
I could go on but I’ll leave it to others to chip in!!
PS…I will say that there are still many young and mighty talented craftsmen coming in…. Gaziano & Girling being a prime example, Thom Sweeney another…and the Ladies ….Emma Willis Shirts in Jermyn Street and I’ll add Gormley & Gamble and The Deck in Savile Row, ladies tailors. We cannot forget the ladies after all!!
There are great craftspeople still around!
We can lament the past and forget to be optimistic about the future too!!
For those with big bank balances, Huntsman has a bespoke ladies team. The head cutter is the appropriately named Magdalena Handwerker – https://www.huntsmansavilerow.com/pages/bespoke-ladies. There is more information on her collection here – https://www.huntsmansavilerow.com/pages/huntswoman-of-tomorrow.
Thanks indeed for your input.
I had a bad “rapport” with Huntsman following an email request in the past and I’ll not be using them.
£4000++ for a “bespoke” commission for a man’s suit made offshore is not on.
Prices are stratospheric….way too expensive!
A great article since i am about to visit London in 1 month. May i ask something ? I am looking to buy a new grey sweatshirt and would like something like the ball park you reviewed on the sweatshirts article but it is not produced any more( i asked real mc coys per email). Which brand would you suggest for a grey one with not too long body, tight or at least not loose neck and preferably without a v on the back ?
I don’t have a specific recommendation as I’ve never looked beyond mine, but Clutch and Stag are the places that will have them – and Clutch did an article recently comparing all theirs
May i suggest Drakes. Wonderfully soft but may not be quite the style you want!
As alluded to in my forgoing post, I mentioned Gormley & Gamble and the Deck….ladies tailors in Savile Row.
Am I entirely naive in “delicately” suggesting that an article could be done on one or all of these tailors… our beloved wives, and indeed ladies looking in as it were need, on occasion, a fair “hearing” too.
Just, well more than, a wee suggestion……!
We have covered some in the past Lindsay, like Kathryn Sargent (see post on jacket she made for my wife). Also the tailoring Sexton and Joe Morgan do for women. Jennie Adamson is also good there.
But it’s always going to be a very small part of the readership
Thank you Simon – I had started to create my own Google Maps list to remind myself of all the various places I can visit when in a particular area, but I can now abandon that with your brilliant list!
Nice! Let me know if there’s any way to improve it
How about 40 Colori across on Lamb Conduit Street? they’re one of the few for MTM knitwear.
Ah yes, good point! Knew I’d leave out at least one. I’ll mention Lambs Conduit generally too
Hi Simon A lovely area and just a short distance from King’s Cross. Worth a look if you’re around Coal Drops Yard. Some smashing cafes and a fair slice of literary history in Bloomsbury. Makes for a very civilised morning walk.
Seconded
Simon
Interesting to see that clustering dynamic in play, and the various outliers.
East London is also well served by the mini cluster on Redchurch Street, if not as distinctive shop identities.
Regards
There are few more shops that should be on the list. Did I miss Luca Faloni who has shops in Piccadilly, Marylebone and Chelsea? Is there a reason why Sunspel is not included?
Since you mentioned Barker and Loake, I’d add Joseph Cheaney and Tricker’s in addition to Church’s on Jermyn Street.. For those who need a wider fitting, Cheaney has more choice than Crockett &Jones. The quality of Tricker’s shoes, especially in the sales, has declined in recent years but the country boots remain excellent. There are some great bargains on the factory shop website too.
Luca Faloni is mentioned above in comments, and I do mention Sunspel and Trickers.
I still can’t find the mentions Sunspel and Trickers but would welcome your comments on them. I have been a regular customer of both brands for over 25 years. They have raised their prices substantially so I now have serious concerns about their value for money. Like Tricker’s, Sunspel’s quality has dropped in recent years. The notable exception is its range of classic t-shirts that are still in made in England.
They’re both in the last paragraph of the Jermyn Street section.
Sunspel still does great basics – I like their underwear in particular. Trickers has never been my style so can’t comment much.
It’s weird. Using Opera, the last Jermyn Street paragraph reads “Elsewhere on Jermyn Street there is shoes, Barker and Loake. The latter two aren’t really at the quality level we cover on PS, but it demonstrates how many shoe options there are on this one street. There is also a branch of at the other end of the road – a great brand for basics, and this is convenient.”
On Safari. it’s different. “Tricker’s” is added to first sentence before “shoes, Barker and Loake”. Sunspel is added before “at the other end” in the last sentence. I can’t think of any logical reason for the differences. Totally bizarre!
My favourite piece from Sunspel is a lightweight Ventile golf jacket that was made in England. I got it years before my heavier Ventile Harrington from Private White VC. The latter’s shop in Duke Street is sorely missed.
Hmm. We have had issues with caching Kent, so maybe that’s it. I’d be interested if you clear your cache on Opera whether it fixes things…
I had the same caching issues as others but they disappeared when you sorted them. I’ve cleared Opera’s cookies, history and cache several times but there’s still no fix! I’ll use another browser in future as I can’t think of any reason or a solution.
Hmm, ok thank you Kent. Let me know if it persists
I noticed the same issue on Vivaldi (Android). Cache-clearing was no help here either. But little quirks like this seem to come with the alt-browser territory, I’ve gotten used to it!
Great list, by the way, and makes me very sorry to live on the opposite side of the planet to London.
I think that the problem is that you linked to Tricker’s and Sunspel’s websites via googleleadservices.com. You linked directly to Loake’s and Barker’s websites so there was no problem. Opera’s settings or its servers must have blocked the googleleadservices links.
To protect my privacy, I stopped using Google and its products which (especially Chrome) track and monitor users. I mostly use Opera and DuckDuckGo which are great for blocking intrusive ads too. Hope this helps.
Interesting, thanks Kent
Don’t agree at all on Tricker’s which quality and finishing is as good as Alden but eith better finishing.
I have ariund about 20 pairs of Tricker’s and 10 of Alden.
Is a matter of style. They are more rugged and cuncky. But for instance in Italy where i live there are a lots of Tricker’s fun as in Japan. And the quality of the materials and durability is second to non.
If you want a more refined look than step to C&j or higher level Edward green! But if you wear causal chinos and raw denim, Teicker’s is unbearable imho. Plus they offer bespoke.
You have opened a can of worms here Simon! Others have mentioned Cordings, but I would add Geo Trumper and Floris. For the inner man Paxton & Whitefield for your cheese and, if you are a cigar smoker of course Davidoff.
I hear what you say about Savile Row but I would also mention St George St, just around the corner from the Row where at No 11 you will find Redmayne 1860 run by Thomas Mahon (trained at A&S), in my opinion arguably the best bespoke tailor you will find.
Thanks Gordon. Yes, I think maybe if people could check the article itself and then the comments above for additions that would be great, otherwise we’ll have a lot of repetition and it won’t be so useful. Cordings is in the piece as is Davidoff, Trumper is above, but Floris is a good shout.
Those tailors are of course mostly not resident, so not so much of a destination. Also as I said not including the vast majority of tailors
Wow! Those of us living in/close to London – aren’t we spoilt!
Simon, you mention that Turnbull has had its “up and downs” the last few years. Could you elaborate? As a longstanding bespoke customer should I be worried?
Thanks,
S
If you like the bespoke service and it works for you, I wouldn’t be. But that has become more expensive and given the high number of shirts required for a first-time customer, plus lack of handwork, I’m not sure I’d recommend it to people (I did try it, many years ago).
The main shop has changed ownership and changed style direction a couple of times with different design heads. It has felt like it’s trying to modernise but doesn’t quite know how. As with other comments, having friends that have worked there has given me a bit of an inside-view as well.
As I’ve said before, maybe my first bespoke maker will probably be Luca or maybe D’Avino, very expensive, then maybe Budd or Charvet.
Where does one contact 100 Hands if they are still a good contender?
I was disappointed with 100 Hands. Prior to covid I ordered 5 shirts; I began with high hopes and I quite like the chap (owner). Alas, however, the shirts they sent were not what I ordered–not the collar style I ordered, not-quite-right fittings, far too many email to resolve. After several back and forths I kinda gave up–two of the shirts didn’t have the monograms I requested. Frustrating. In the end, I concluded there were 50 hands too many.
You could make similar comments about Hilditch & Key and its subsidiary Bates the hatter. I was a regular customer of both brands until a few years ago.
Good to know you have friends who are shop assistants. Keeps you grounded I guess.
They’re not shop assistants (a product of age more than anything else!) more heads of marketing etc
Hi Simon
Fantastic reminder about how many outstanding menswear options there are to explore in London.
As mentioned by a couple of other readers there are some great traditional barbers in the Jermyn Street / St James’s area. With Taylors, DR Harris, Trumpers and Truefitt & Hill providing a mix of barbering services alongside men’s toiletries and aftershaves I wonder if there is an article here about the brands.
Hi Simon
I don’t know if they are still trading,
but would you include Frank Foster in Pall Mall?
Regards
Stephen
Frank died a few years ago
I read somewhere that his wife (Mary) and/or daughter (Sam) were running the business after he passed away. Here’s the Instagram page – https://www.instagram.com/frank_foster_shirts/.
Thank you Kent – if you come across any more information, let us know
Frank’s daughter Sam runs the business on Pall Mall, I was told. They do a lot of work for the film industry but also accept private clients.
Thank you Burt. Do you know who does the cutting and fitting then? Sam?
Sam and her mother Mary do the measurements and the fittings. From what I’ve heard they use a cutter. The first shirt of a first commission of 6 is made oversized and then pinned down on the client. The cellar at Pall Mall is kind of a treasury with bolts of shirting that Frank Foster collected over the years. Sam herself is a very warm and welcoming person.
Thank you Burt. I’ll try and go and say hello some time
You missed Canons, bespoke shoemaker (f/k/a Foster & Son). They are as good or better than the ones you mentioned.
Ah yes, very true. Good shout. I’ve been a few times and they are in the process of making me a pair of shoes. Lovely guys.
Not sure I’d put them in here just because they are so out of the way and aren’t a shop so not the kind of place you’d really go to unless you were commissioning something
Sounds mighty good. Looking forward to seeing the results.
Did the initial fitting go well?
I hope that works out well and how they compare to G&G or Templeman. Early days.
Thanks Lindsay. Yes, the first fitting was good and they certainly took a lot of care with it
Really looking forward to the outcome!!!!
Yes that’s true but if you are an international customer in search of a high end pair of shoes, the fact that Canons moved from Jermyn St. to Islington isn’t really too relevant. If you are paying $$$$ for Lobb v. Canons v. Cleverley v. Gaziano — taxi fare to the shop not a big deal.
For those of us in the US who rely mostly on U.S. trunk shows from Europe, we don’t really care where their home shop is. But that’s not the theme of your article I suppose.
As I’m sure you are well aware, if you live in the U.S and you are in seach of high end bespoke shoes from a U.S. maker– they don’t exist in the U.S. market.
True, I can definitely see that. As you say, these guides aren’t really aimed at bespoke in general in that way, as it requires multiple visits
Canons, Fosters then, moving from Jermyn Street to Islington would see a significant drop in rent. They are definitely cheaper than the James St. Lobb or G&G in Savile Row as I asked their price for bespoke oxfords :- £5700, INCLUDING VAT!
G&G over £6000 now!
Great work Simon. I would add JM Weston on Jermyn street to the list.
Thanks Nezar. Not the HQ and obviously shops in France, so not one we’d list except in passing, but certainly one more to the strength of Jermyn St as the home of shoes (not shirts!)
Thanks Simon. Understood on focus. I think it would be worth mentioning Corthay in passing as well given they have a full service RTW offering in London.
Yes, though again not the main shop and there are shops elsewhere – we have to be strict on that kind of thing otherwise the list would be five times the size!
Cheers Simon. Perhaps it may be an idea to have a more abbreviated list as you have done and then an expanded list for those who want to see all options in London.
I think if someone is coming to London and wants to see all high-end menswear options the expanded list would be very useful. That way he can have access to many more brands without having to travel to Paris or wherever to see them in person. I think it makes sense that way. You can always have the British shops in the shorter list and at the top of the longer list but having a full list of all options would be incredibly useful in my view. But that’s just me talking and not doing the work so of course entirely your decision!
Great work and effort in any event!
Thanks Nezar. I can see how that might be useful, but it would be a lot more work. I prefer to focus on the destination shops in each city – particularly in places like London where there are so many
Thanks Simon. I get where you’re coming from so fair enough.
Thanks again to you and the rest of the team for all the wonderful work and education!
Absolute pleasure!
I think Floris would be a worthy addition to the list. Wonderful shop, product and location.
Thanks Nicholas – that’s mentioned above in the comments. I know it’s a pain but please do check first, otherwise the comments just repeat themselves ad infinitum!
Good morning..greetings to you all. LONDON….your home town..You know it so well..impressive list..cheers and much peace
Stuarts in Shepherds Bush have been around a few years and sell a large range of respected menswear staples such as Orslow, Paraboot etc…
What a great article Simon. Very useful. Loving the map.
Nice, thanks
Any reason not to include N Peal? I found the knitwear to be excellent.
Good point. They have always done nice stuff, though it is quite expensive these days and it is still more leaning towards womenswear, certainly for the more interesting pieces. It reminds me that Berk used to be close by too, shame they closed they were a great knitwear retailer
Hello – Out of curiosity I just googled and see Berk cashmere (ostensibly the same company) are still retailing (only Scottish) cashmere exclusively online.
Interesting, thanks. They had a lot of stock when they closed and they said they were moving online. I didn’t know that was still going
G/Morning Simon,
Some years. ago I Grey Flannel in Chiltern St had a very well edited collection , I seem to remember buying some lovely pieces of Knitwear, especially cardigans.
Are they still in business ?
Kindest Regards
Stephen
They are, and Timothy Everest is now involved there I understand
Oh this is fabulous. The next trip to London just became all that more expensive.
Interestingly, in my last trip to London I was looking at getting a pair of jeans. Brycelands didn’t have my size and I didn’t have the time to get to Blackhorse Lane. I walked into Labour & Wait generally and found that they have a collaboration with Blackhorse Lane called the E2. Loved it because of the straighter leg (compared to other BHL Rates). Quite unexpected.
How about SEH Kelly for lovely duffel and peacoats?
Their workshop isn’t really open regular times any more, so I wouldn’t list it as a shop for people to visit
I’ve gotten a peacoat and a raincoat from SEH Kelly. The quality and design are excellent and the prices are reasonable. It’s true the shop is not a place you can just walk into, but I was able to visit. And the owner, Paul, is a great character.
Gieves & Hawkes has survived some tough times and changes of ownership over the last few years. The website has very limited information and its online shop closed shortly after House of Fraser bought the brand. Does anyone have any information or an opinion on what’s now on offer at 1 Savile Row?
The bespoke is still strong, but what’s upstairs feels like leftovers from previous collections. It’s waiting for the new designer to add new things
They will be adding a JD Sports section I understand.
Ha ha Bill, but I think you mean Sports Direct!
Truefitt & Hill is also on St James St and is good for shaving products. Haven’t tried their barber service though.
dege and skinner on Savile Row is worth a mention as is shirtmaker Deema Abi-Chahine.
Thanks Brian – as mentioned in the piece we’re not mentioning all tailors or shirtmakers, but yes both are great
Simon, not especially on topic, but I have just turned 60, retired and will hopefully be entirely Cotswolds based soon (selling the London place). My wife wants to celebrate the age thing by having a suit made for me. I am thinking a single-breasted tweed two-piece with a pair of grey flannel trousers in the same cut as the suit trousers. Where would you recommend? I am leaning towards Anderson & Sheppard but would really appreciate your advice as it is aeons since my last bespoke experience.
Many thanks in advance
Hi Stephen,
That sounds wonderful! The big questions here are really style and price. Is price an issue at all (if so I could suggest some cheaper alternatives to A&S) and do you like the A&S style when you see it (for example in our comparison of tailor styles here)?
Thanks Simon, looks like I’ve got some reading to do. I don’t think price is an issue, but I do need to think about the style. I was assuming a “classic” cut but I’m not sure that really means very much. Have I opened a can of worms for myself?
Ha! Well it depends very much on how involved you want to be.
I think have a look at those and have a quick look at which appeals to you most – no need to go into all the analysis and numbers.
Or, perhaps as part of the experience visit two or three of the tailors in London and see if you can try something, to give you an idea
This posting couldn’t have come at a better time. I’m going to be in London in a few weeks and have a bit of a roadmap to visit some interesting shops while I’m there. Thanks very much.
Arterton have really made the process of trying on Yearn and ACME shoes much easier for us UK folk.
Absolutely lovely: what a wonderful resource. Thank you.
If you do happen to be crossing over from Piccadilly to Jermyn Street do go through St James’ church. Grinlay Gibbons is England’s most prestigious and skilled wood carver. There is one of his pieces from 1684 in the church. Given the joy expressed for craftsmanship here a look at that when out exploring the shops should enhance the experience.
Wonderful – as someone who adores all decorative arts, that’s great to know
And Simon – any thoughts on Percival?
They’re not really at the quality level of what we cover on here generally, and I have to say no designs have leapt out to me either. They’re marketing/social has been interesting at times though
Fabulous article. Maybe mention Pankhurst London in the Thom Sweeney shop?
I am in London this week, so the timing could not have been more perfect. Thank you for putting this terrific guide together!
If there are still some, could you mention the shop(s) that have PS items on display?
Wonderful, pleased to hear it.
No shops have PS items on display normally – there is just our pop-ups twice a year, and William Crabtree during the month of October.
Thank you! I will have to come to the NYC popup one of these days. Or do one on the West Coast.
What are your thoughts on Métier (bags) on south audley street ?
Good question James – actually I think they’re very good. Expensive, but well thought through. I went to see them last month and am planning an article when I can get in after the summer to interview them. They would then be included here
Look forward to reading that. I got a Vagabond All Day after being undecided for years and it’s been one of my best buys. Really adapts to different loads and different outfits.
Ah nice, good to hear Stuart
Fantastic to read about all of these places, many of which I know of, some of which I don’t. And all in one article. A great resource to keep coming back to – thanks!
Long time reader (shared interest in watches & used to work in IP), first time commenter: such a useful article, as always, thank you. I saved the map in Google Maps and used it yesterday to visit several of the many good recommendations
Amazing, lovely to hear Barry
hi Simon
A great list covering all the fine things London has to offer! What about small independent perfumers though?
Not the focus of this piece, but I love Perfumer H which is in there, and readers have mentioned Floris in the comments as well
I wish this had been published a few months ago, when I was visiting London (from Oz). Damn. Good though that I found a few of the places mentioned. One of the few things I actually bought was a cashmere cardigan from Johnstons of Elgin. Probably doesn’t quite fit the profile of the places Simon listed, but good nonetheless. Not cheap though.
No, it does in a way as they don’t have many shops and that is the HQ. Odd shop though and odd location. I think they’re looking to change it
Agree the shop, as an overall destination, wasn’t compelling. But being new to the brand I thought some of their product was good, well made etc.
I found Drakes and Trunk particularly good as general RTW stockists at the more casual end.
One critique I’d make as London visitor is that Chelsea seems to be a menswear desert. I couldn’t find much of interest. Am I missing something obvious? Thoughts Simon et al…
No you’re not really. Kensington and Chelsea are much more just fashion brands, though there are some unique and interesting things outside menswear, such as antiques around Kensington Church Street
Great list! However, I wonder if there not another “challenge” for you to consider here as well when writing this. I imagine that most of these stores know you well, and maybe even at friend level, meaning you are probably treated better than most customers when visiting. I can see your list is not touching on service, but I can honestly say, I stopped visiting some of these stores because of this. A bit frustrating to see the same stores being praised as the best in London, when their staff can’t even give a “Hello” or “Welcome” when entering. Wont call anyone out, but the assortment or product is not making up for it in my mind. And I mean basic level of service, staff being friendly and asking if they can help you. Not sure what I want to say with this, but credit should go to Drakes, John Simons, and Anglo Italian (the one time I shopped there) always have great service and good vibe.
Thanks again!
In light of that comment, which I think is fair I have to personally call out my experience at William Crabtree & Sons on my first and only visit a few months ago. I think I spent over an hour just chatting with the owner, James. One of the most enjoyable retail experiences I can remember. Old world customer experience at is finest. Loved the store too.
I don’t really rate Drake’s London much anymore since Mark Cho’s ownership. It’s become much less focused on the sharper end of men’s clothes and now, it’s just primarily casual wear.
A store that should be mentioned, across from the Burlington Arcade is Thom Browne. To have an universally-loved, singular aesthetic, despite the enormity of cost, it’s beautiful to know some companies still have a personal identity – a soul.
Ormonde Jayne in the Royal Arcade and Paul Smith’s shop on Albermarle St may not meet your criteria but are lovely to spend time in
Wonderful list. I visted Adret recently after reading about the store on the site. Everything is gorgeous, but mind boggling expensive (unfortunately for me). Fabulous styling too.
If you’re keen to try on Colhay’s knitwear then H&S on the Row has (or at least they did on my last visit) a decent selection and the staff there were very helpful.
I’d second including Cheaneys in the Jermyn St section – especially if you’re mentioning Loakes and Barker (who have stores country wide). Cheaney’s are on a par with C&J in my view.
It’s gone downhill recently, and the staff are not terribly knowledgeable, but the fragrance section of Liberty’s remains a worthwhile visit on quieter days.
Excellent list, Simon. I think one day, you need your own paradise shop in London (Mayfair) 🤪 Speaking of quasi new brands, what’s your take on Alexander Kraft and his clothing line? Regards
That would be amazing, let me know if you find any cheap places or generous benefactors!
I haven’t been that much of a fan of his tailoring to be honest. It was heavily sold on its cheapness and seemed to lift from the Cifonelli tailoring he had had made.
The Dunhill house is amazing. It’s worth spending some time there, perhaps a bite at the cafe downstairs or a cigar in the courtyard out front. They have an impressive selection in the humidor. The whole space is worth a tour and the new collections are impressive, particularly the outerwear (super soft suede).
Hello sir,
I’ve been a loyal reader of permanent style for years, and I just move to London for my Masters degree at UCL. Really grateful that site like PS exists on my journey, it makes everything so much smoother and easier. I’ll be here for a year and I’ve already got a huntsman navy suits, a linen sport coat from The Anthology, 5 black line MTM 100 hands, plenty of ties, plenty of Knits, and 5-6 pairs of MTM / bespoke trousers from makers like anthology and Igarashi. I’m planing to get an over coat (thinking Whitcomb overseas bespoke), and shoes (I’m thinking c&J special order). Wondering is there any other makers that I shouldn’t miss out in this year or any better options you might suggest on the over coat and shoes mentioned ( I’m probably not getting one more suits above £3000 this year.)
Thank you
Kind regards,
Wu
I don’t think so Wu – perhaps try an English shirtmaker? That might be interesting for you, and a little different to 100 Hands without being a huge additional outlay (as going to a slightly different tailor like a Sexton or Michael Browne might be)
Simon
This is an excellent guide – thank you.
Is JP Hackett on Saville Row worth a mention? It’s quite different from the broader brand. I haven’t tried their bespoke. They do have ready to wear jackets which they have made in small quantities (20ish I believe) by a tailor in Italy. It’s obviously a newer establishment on Saville Row. I have visited many times and it strikes me that the environment is very well welcoming. Someone else mentioned the cutter and believe he has a strong reputation.
Hey Richard,
It is a lovely space, I really like it. Personally, I haven’t seen anything that attracted me in terms of style or quality – it seemed a bit too close to the rest of Hackett. The tailor I have met but don’t know much about his work.
Where was that last photo taken, they seem to have a nice jacket selection.
The last photo is taken from this article – a profile of Tim Bent’s vintage clothes
Apologies for the personal question, but I was hoping Simon might be able to provide some guidance on an issue that has arisen for me this year. My father passed away at the beginning of the year – now that he’s no longer with us, my mother is trying to figure out what to do with his fairly extensive wardrobe, which includes several outerwear pieces from Loro Piana, and other pieces of menswear from other high-end brands such as Purple Label. Our thoughts have turned to options for selling these and other pieces. I was hoping Simon might be able to provide some suggestions for outlets that would be able handle some of these items and take some of the administrative burden of selling them off our hands. I’d rather not go the eBay route – an online reseller (or a store based in London) would be ideal. I know Simon has highlighted Marrkt in the past – would they be an option?
Hey Alex,
This has come up in the past too. I think Marrkt would still be my top recommendation. They’re not always the most organised, and they do take a large share (35%) for their services, but they’re the only place I know that has the high-end audience that would appreciate what you’re selling. They might also be willing to make a focus of the collection – promoting it in a newsletter as an interesting story. I’m sure that would help too.
S
Thanks, Simon. I’ll look into Marrkt.
So sorry to read about your loss.
Another thought: James Smith & Sons, Oxford St, for walking sticks. A large range (unrivalled?) and they can ( or at least could for me) cut to length.
Ah yes, very true. Should have included them, haven’t been in in a while. Do they still make and repair downstairs?
Likewise, haven’t been in a while, so I can’t say.
I’m thinking Richard Gelding on N Audley St deserves a mention too. An eclectic mix of brands and they also stock Ring Jacket and Carmina which are both difficult to find and try on in a physical location elsewhere in London.
Ah yes, good call
Dear Simon, Do you have any advice on leather bags made-to-order? I see that Swaine no longer makes the “Gladstone bag” that was a fixture at Swaine Adeney Brigg. Any idea on who might be able to make a Gladstone bag, at least to similar specifications? Thanks!
Someone like MacGregor & Michael might
Thanks!
Simon, I found this example in Washington, DC at Sterling and Burke, now “Studio Burke.”
https://studioburkedc.com/products/classic-gladstone-bag-english-bridle-leather-hand-stitched-in-england-sterling-and-burke
It is made in Saffron Walden, and many of their products look very much like the old “Swaine Adeney Brigg.”
So maybe it is made in the same workshop? I tried to search online, but I could not identify the actual workshop.
But perhaps one can order England’s finest in America!
Hmm, perhaps. I couldn’t add more information but does look good
Could you recommend any shops in London for buying socks? I’m currently searching thicker wool socks for the coming winter (still smart/dress socks). In the past I bought my socks from Falke. What is your opinion about the London Sock Company? Cheers
They’re pretty basic – good service but not sure quality is the same as others we cover. I’d look at things like Tabio at Trunk, short ones at A&S. Though if you want lower quality of course, which you might well do, then it’s a big world – everyone does basic socks, from TM Lewin to Uniqlo