Edward Sexton overcoat: How great things age
A reader commented recently that if you don’t feel comfortable in a piece of clothing, it’s clearly not for you and you should move on. While I agree that feeling comfortable in your clothes is important to looking good &#...
Edward Sexton overcoat: How great things age
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"...younger is any one below 60" Jack you have become my new favourite commentor. Ian (49 but a child in tailoring years)....
The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known
This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-be...
The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known
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No worries, always happy to help, just keep on asking questions...
Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?
What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why? I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled waists or stitches per inch. We...
Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?
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I tend to prefer rounded, and squared often looks a little more stylised, a little more modern or edgy. But please keep in mind it is only one factor - you can have a subtle squared toe on a rounded last and it look very...
The mock neck
I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...
The mock neck
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I don't really like that look with roll necks, but it's worse with mock necks, because you see so much of the collar. Or at least we can say, it's a more showy look that way...
Giving clothes a new lease of life: The Valet, Re...
If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to invest time and energy in your ex...
Giving clothes a new lease of life: The Valet, Re...
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Many thanks Lindsay...
White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...
Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is s...
White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...
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No I haven't, sorry Greg...
Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review
It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will have, and bad even if it&...
Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review
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Excellent post. I am experiencing a few of these issues as well, but now I have got some ideas. Thanks!...
Accessories for holiday
Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday this summer. 1 Bower &...
Accessories for holiday
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Yes, I think a tote of some sort is the best option. And yes, I'd carry it all day...
Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes
As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...
Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes
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Definitely start with one. Also I wouldn't necessarily recommend switching them all, as a bespoke shoe is usually a dressier look (slim waist, slim welt etc) and doesn't really cover the casual end of the spectrum that w...
How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer ...
On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the unique adrenaline hit of retail. ...
How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer ...
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I don’t, sorry....
Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London
A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favourite craftsmen in ...
Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London
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I had a chance to meet Eithen this weekend in NYC, where he accompanied Luke and Richard on one of Thom Sweeney's regular visits here. It's exciting to see this still young firm already working so hard to bring in fresh ...
Cleverley bespoke sample sale – one day only
Cleverley’s sale of sample bespoke shoes was my first introduction to them – way back in 2009. There have been precious few such sales since, but there will be another on Thursday November 19th, for one day only – 9am...
Cleverley bespoke sample sale – one day only
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You'd do that mostly for the fit, and then for the look, less so for the quality of the make...
Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers
A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the back for me), an...
Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers
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Thank you, most helpful...
Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World
It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World. Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closures. Cleverley and Anderson &...
Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World
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Yes, it's not flannel just a lightweight wool....
London: A sartorial city guide
I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave too many out I’ll...
London: A sartorial city guide
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It certainly could be, and it will be updated this year. On being short and chubby, to be honest I have no idea if some RTW brands would work better than others. I have suggestions on what proportions work better (see ar...
The Finest Menswear in the World
Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...
The Finest Menswear in the World
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Thank you, Simon. Yes, I think makers, especially with own brand, like Zilli and Seraphin schould be in prioritet position. That's why I would add Hettabretz to your selection. I read what Hattabretz small maker with own...
Change your laces
Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. They produc...
Change your laces
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That might be ok, but keep them the same thickness as the sneaker laces - thin ones would look out of proportion...
Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)
Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone seemed to really enjoy. And we&a...
Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)
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I think it can look very nice. Bear in mind that linen and cotton will usually look more casual, though, and perhaps therefore better suited to casual jackets rather than suiting. Lightweight wools are often better with ...
Bespoke shoes event: the speakers
Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy
Bespoke shoes event: the speakers
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1. Partly, I'm fairly well into my career and earn decent money now - I couldn't have afforded anywhere near as much 10 years ago. And partly, prioritisation. I know people (particularly women) who buy even more clothing...
Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks
Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley. Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with the Russian reindeer story &a...
Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks
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Do you prefer the lulu toe taps or the triumph toe taps? Heard that with brown shoes the triumph may fit better aesthetically...
Kingsman: British and bespoke
Kingsman: The Secret Service launches in the UK in February. There are several nice things about this. Sections of it are set in Huntsman, on Savile Row. The clothing is all supplied by British brands (and nearly all made in the UK): George Cleverl...
Kingsman: British and bespoke
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He was not influenced by Edward directly. I'm afraid I'll have to leave these questions there if that's ok. I can't reply to all of them, but I hope I have helped with your thoughts process. Simon...
Russian reindeer box by Cleverley/Balvenie
Readers will be familiar with the points about Cleverley and Russian reindeer in the above, but there is some nice footage of the closing on Cleverleys, and the technique of making a wood-framed box. The Robert Simpson factory is one of only a han...
Russian reindeer box by Cleverley/Balvenie
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Very sad to hear the news that Robert Simpson passed away. I met him a few times and he was a true gentleman. When did this happen?...
Five tips on bespoke shoes
I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I know it’s the same as the f...
Five tips on bespoke shoes
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Absolutely Lindsay, there's lots of coverage around the site. Perhaps start with the post 'The bespoke shoemakers I have known' https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/10/the-shoemakers-i-have-known.html...
George woos Hollywood: latest How to Spend It column
My most recent column for How to Spend It magazine – the luxury supplement of the Financial Times – was on your friend and mine, Mr George Glasgow Jr . The name dropping was relentless, but then you can hardly expect anything else...
George woos Hollywood: latest How to Spend It column
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I wasn't, no, but I'll check it out. Saw Justin for lunch last week but it didn't come up...
How to compare RTW and MTM suits
Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explain how to compare RTW, and why ...
How to compare RTW and MTM suits
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I think you're right to be cautious - and I don't cover much MTM partly because it can be unreliable. But I'd have no hesitation recommending Saman Amel. I suggest starting there. And start with a conservative suit rathe...
