Giving clothes a new lease of life: Jaunty Flaneu...

May 31st 2019

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to invest time and energy in your ex...

Giving clothes a new lease of life: Jaunty Flaneu...

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to invest ...

ShoesMay 31st 2019

White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...

November 7th 2018

Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is s...

White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...

Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even...

Style - SuitsNovember 7th 2018

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

January 22nd 2018

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will have, and bad even if it&...

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will...

JacketsJanuary 22nd 2018

Accessories for holiday

August 7th 2017

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday this summer. 1 Bower &...

Accessories for holiday

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on.  So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holida...

Bags - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 7th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pair...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer ...

January 11th 2017

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the unique adrenaline hit of retail....

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer ...

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the un...

ShoesJanuary 11th 2017

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

December 2nd 2015

A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favourite craftsmen in ...

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

   A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill.  First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our fa...

December 2nd 2015

Cleverley bespoke sample sale – one day only

November 14th 2015

Cleverley’s sale of sample bespoke shoes was my first introduction to them – way back in 2009. There have been precious few such sales since, but there will be another on Thursday November 19th, for one day only – 9am...

Cleverley bespoke sample sale – one day only

   Cleverley’s sale of sample bespoke shoes was my first introduction to them – way back in 2009. There have been precious few such sales since, but there will be another on Thursday November 19th, for on...

November 14th 2015

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

October 30th 2015

A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the back for me), an...

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

   A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the...

StyleOctober 30th 2015

Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World

September 18th 2015

It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World. Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closures. Cleverley and Anderson &...

Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World

   It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World.  Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closure...

September 18th 2015

London: A sartorial city guide

August 12th 2015

I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave too many out I’ll...

London: A sartorial city guide

   I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series.  In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leav...

August 12th 2015

The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...

The Finest Menswear in the World

   Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in t...

July 17th 2015

Change your laces

May 25th 2015

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. They produc...

Change your laces

   Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look.  The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contras...

Shoes - StyleMay 25th 2015

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

April 15th 2015

Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone seemed to really enjoy. And we&a...

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

  Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone ...

StyleApril 15th 2015

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

January 17th 2015

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

Pierre Corthay   Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers.    Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy    ...

January 17th 2015

Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks

December 29th 2014

Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley. Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with the Russian reindeer story &a...

Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks

  Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley. Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar wit...

ShoesDecember 29th 2014

Kingsman: British and bespoke

December 15th 2014

Kingsman: The Secret Service launches in the UK in February. There are several nice things about this. Sections of it are set in Huntsman, on Savile Row. The clothing is all supplied by British brands (and nearly all made in the UK): George Cleverl...

Kingsman: British and bespoke

  Kingsman: The Secret Service launches in the UK in February. There are several nice things about this. Sections of it are set in Huntsman, on Savile Row. The clothing is all supplied by British brands (and nearly all ...

December 15th 2014

Russian reindeer box by Cleverley/Balvenie

November 14th 2014

Readers will be familiar with the points about Cleverley and Russian reindeer in the above, but there is some nice footage of the closing on Cleverleys, and the technique of making a wood-framed box. The Robert Simpson factory is one of only a han...

Russian reindeer box by Cleverley/Balvenie

  Readers will be familiar with the points about Cleverley and Russian reindeer in the above, but there is some nice footage of the closing on Cleverleys, and the technique of making a wood-framed box.  The Robert Si...

BagsNovember 14th 2014

The bespoke shoemakers I have known

October 20th 2014

A reader recently asked for my advice on bespoke shoemakers, making me realise I hadn’t done an equivalent to ‘ The tailors I have known’ for shoes. This is the first part of the response to his question, summarising experiences s...

The bespoke shoemakers I have known

  A reader recently asked for my advice on bespoke shoemakers, making me realise I hadn’t done an equivalent to ‘ The tailors I have known’ for shoes. This is the first part of the response to his question, summar...

ShoesOctober 20th 2014

Five tips on bespoke shoes

July 7th 2014

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I know it’s the same as the f...

Five tips on bespoke shoes

  I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I know i...

ShoesJuly 7th 2014

George woos Hollywood: latest How to Spend It column

May 14th 2014

My most recent column for How to Spend It magazine – the luxury supplement of the Financial Times – was on your friend and mine, Mr George Glasgow Jr . The name dropping was relentless, but then you can hardly expect anything else...

George woos Hollywood: latest How to Spend It column

My most recent column for How to Spend It magazine – the luxury supplement of the Financial Times – was on your friend and mine, Mr George Glasgow Jr . The name dropping was relentless, but then you can hardl...

ShoesMay 14th 2014

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

February 21st 2014

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explain how to compare RTW, and why ...

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explain ho...

SuitsFebruary 21st 2014

Two pairs of Anthony Cleverleys

February 19th 2014

While meeting the impossibly nice Xavier Aubercy last week, we got talking about the archive of shoes owned by Arturo Lopez, a friend and customer of Xavier’s grandfather Andre Aubercy. Lopez was a customer of many shoemakers, and his coll...

Two pairs of Anthony Cleverleys

While meeting the impossibly nice Xavier Aubercy last week, we got talking about the archive of shoes owned by Arturo Lopez, a friend and customer of Xavier’s grandfather Andre Aubercy.  Lopez was a customer of ma...

ShoesFebruary 19th 2014

Postcard from Paris

February 11th 2014

I was in Paris last week for a couple of articles, as well as visiting the usual suspects. Here in a green raincoat from Hermes with brown leather collar detail. Because green is the third colour. Traveller trilby from Lock & Co; Alfred Dun...

Postcard from Paris

I was in Paris last week for a couple of articles, as well as visiting the usual suspects.  Here in a green raincoat from Hermes with brown leather collar detail. Because green is the third colour.  Traveller trilby fr...

Coats - StyleFebruary 11th 2014

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

December 23rd 2013

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris in the first place. In t...

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 23rd 2013