Accessories for holiday

August 7th 2017

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday...

Accessories for holiday

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday...

Accessories - BagsAugust 7th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs ...

Building a wardrobe: Shoes

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs ...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer monks

January 11th 2017

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the un...

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer monks

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the un...

Monk - ShoesJanuary 11th 2017

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

December 2nd 2015

A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favou...

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favou...

December 2nd 2015

Cleverley bespoke sample sale – one day only

November 14th 2015

Cleverley’s sale of sample bespoke shoes was my first introduction to them – way back in 2009. There have been precious few such sales since, but there will be another on Thursday November 19th, for one da...

Cleverley bespoke sample sale – one day only

Cleverley’s sale of sample bespoke shoes was my first introduction to them – way back in 2009. There have been precious few such sales since, but there will be another on Thursday November 19th, for one da...

November 14th 2015

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

October 30th 2015

A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the ba...

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the ba...

StyleOctober 30th 2015

Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World

September 18th 2015

It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World. Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closures. Cl...

Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World

It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World. Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closures. Cl...

September 18th 2015

London: A sartorial city guide

August 12th 2015

I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave t...

London: A sartorial city guide

I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave t...

August 12th 2015

The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the...

The Finest Menswear in the World

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the...

July 17th 2015

Change your laces

May 25th 2015

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast i...

Change your laces

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast i...

Derby - OxfordMay 25th 2015

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

April 15th 2015

Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone se...

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone se...

StyleApril 15th 2015

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

January 17th 2015

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  ...

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  ...

January 17th 2015

Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks

December 29th 2014

Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley. Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with...

Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks

Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley. Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with...

Monk - OxfordDecember 29th 2014

Kingsman: British and bespoke

December 15th 2014

Kingsman: The Secret Service launches in the UK in February. There are several nice things about this. Sections of it are set in Huntsman, on Savile Row. The clothing is all supplied by British brands (and nearly all m...

Kingsman: British and bespoke

Kingsman: The Secret Service launches in the UK in February. There are several nice things about this. Sections of it are set in Huntsman, on Savile Row. The clothing is all supplied by British brands (and nearly all m...

December 15th 2014

Russian reindeer box by Cleverley/Balvenie

November 14th 2014

Readers will be familiar with the points about Cleverley and Russian reindeer in the above, but there is some nice footage of the closing on Cleverleys, and the technique of making a wood-framed box. The Robert Simpso...

Russian reindeer box by Cleverley/Balvenie

Readers will be familiar with the points about Cleverley and Russian reindeer in the above, but there is some nice footage of the closing on Cleverleys, and the technique of making a wood-framed box. The Robert Simpso...

Accessories - BagsNovember 14th 2014

The bespoke shoemakers I have known

October 20th 2014

A reader recently asked for my advice on bespoke shoemakers, making me realise I hadn’t done an equivalent to ‘ The tailors I have known’ for shoes. This is the first part of the response to his quest...

The bespoke shoemakers I have known

A reader recently asked for my advice on bespoke shoemakers, making me realise I hadn’t done an equivalent to ‘ The tailors I have known’ for shoes. This is the first part of the response to his quest...

Loafer - OxfordOctober 20th 2014

Five tips on bespoke shoes

July 7th 2014

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I kno...

Five tips on bespoke shoes

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I kno...

How to - OxfordJuly 7th 2014

George woos Hollywood: latest How to Spend It column

May 14th 2014

My most recent column for How to Spend It magazine – the luxury supplement of the Financial Times – was on your friend and mine, Mr George Glasgow Jr . The name dropping was relentless, but then you can hardl...

George woos Hollywood: latest How to Spend It column

My most recent column for How to Spend It magazine – the luxury supplement of the Financial Times – was on your friend and mine, Mr George Glasgow Jr . The name dropping was relentless, but then you can hardl...

ShoesMay 14th 2014

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

February 21st 2014

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explai...

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explai...

Fit - SuitsFebruary 21st 2014

Two pairs of Anthony Cleverleys

February 19th 2014

While meeting the impossibly nice Xavier Aubercy last week, we got talking about the archive of shoes owned by Arturo Lopez, a friend and customer of Xavier’s grandfather Andre Aubercy. Lopez was a customer of man...

Two pairs of Anthony Cleverleys

While meeting the impossibly nice Xavier Aubercy last week, we got talking about the archive of shoes owned by Arturo Lopez, a friend and customer of Xavier’s grandfather Andre Aubercy. Lopez was a customer of man...

Derby - ShoesFebruary 19th 2014

Postcard from Paris

February 11th 2014

I was in Paris last week for a couple of articles, as well as visiting the usual suspects. Here in a green raincoat from Hermes with brown leather collar detail. Because green is the third colour. Traveller trilby from...

Postcard from Paris

I was in Paris last week for a couple of articles, as well as visiting the usual suspects. Here in a green raincoat from Hermes with brown leather collar detail. Because green is the third colour. Traveller trilby from...

Overcoats - StyleFebruary 11th 2014

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

December 23rd 2013

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 23rd 2013

Cleverley sample sale on Wednesday

December 16th 2013

Cleverley is having a last-minute sale on Wednesday, selling off bespoke shoes that weren’t picked up, were made in the wrong colour or for whatever other reason (other than quality) were never sold. There are 25 ...

Cleverley sample sale on Wednesday

Cleverley is having a last-minute sale on Wednesday, selling off bespoke shoes that weren’t picked up, were made in the wrong colour or for whatever other reason (other than quality) were never sold. There are 25 ...

How to - ShoesDecember 16th 2013

The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano &...

October 28th 2013

Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and m...

The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano &...

Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and m...

Oxford - ShoesOctober 28th 2013

Brits in Hollywood wearing Cleverley

October 9th 2013

Men in California don’t have the greatest reputation for their dress sense, so it’s nice to see some British actors improving the average. Daniel Radcliffe’s jacket may be a little short and Jason Stath...

Brits in Hollywood wearing Cleverley

Men in California don’t have the greatest reputation for their dress sense, so it’s nice to see some British actors improving the average. Daniel Radcliffe’s jacket may be a little short and Jason Stath...

October 9th 2013

Sartorial cyclists

October 1st 2013

The first, rather informal meeting of our industry cycling group. (Someone, please, suggest a club name with a decent pun in it.) Fifty-odd miles around the hills of Kent. From left: Hercules and Chris, Edward Green; me;...

Sartorial cyclists

The first, rather informal meeting of our industry cycling group. (Someone, please, suggest a club name with a decent pun in it.) Fifty-odd miles around the hills of Kent. From left: Hercules and Chris, Edward Green; me;...

October 1st 2013

John Carnera with his 1987 shoes

September 19th 2013

Last week John Carnera at Cleverley’s had a pair of his shoes, dating back to 1987, in for a resole. John doesn’t work full time any more, but still helps out with a bit of the pattern cutting and repairs. Se...

John Carnera with his 1987 shoes

Last week John Carnera at Cleverley’s had a pair of his shoes, dating back to 1987, in for a resole. John doesn’t work full time any more, but still helps out with a bit of the pattern cutting and repairs. Se...

How to - ShoesSeptember 19th 2013

Video on suits and their construction

September 11th 2013

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a...

Video on suits and their construction

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a...

Suits - TailoringSeptember 11th 2013

Repatinating shoes with Carreducker

September 6th 2013

I love my brown Cleverleys – the first bespoke shoes I owned – but I’ve never been that happy with the colour. Cleverley are good at many things, but patination is not one of them. George Jr has looked ...

Repatinating shoes with Carreducker

I love my brown Cleverleys – the first bespoke shoes I owned – but I’ve never been that happy with the colour. Cleverley are good at many things, but patination is not one of them. George Jr has looked ...

ShoesSeptember 6th 2013

How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

June 10th 2013

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I lear...

How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I lear...

Boot - ShoesJune 10th 2013

Permanent Style in Free & Easy magazine

March 22nd 2013

This column in Japanese magazine Free & Easy is the result of the photo shoot I posted about before Christmas. I have no idea what the Japanese text says, but hopefully it faithfully reports my opinions on shoes and...

Permanent Style in Free & Easy magazine

This column in Japanese magazine Free & Easy is the result of the photo shoot I posted about before Christmas. I have no idea what the Japanese text says, but hopefully it faithfully reports my opinions on shoes and...

ShoesMarch 22nd 2013

Profile piece in How to Spend It, Spain

January 25th 2013

The Spanish version of How to Spend It, Fueria de Serie, interviewed me and did a photo shoot when I visited Jose Maria’s Club Aristocrata last year. The piece came out today. Unless your Spanish is a lot better th...

Profile piece in How to Spend It, Spain

The Spanish version of How to Spend It, Fueria de Serie, interviewed me and did a photo shoot when I visited Jose Maria’s Club Aristocrata last year. The piece came out today. Unless your Spanish is a lot better th...

StyleJanuary 25th 2013