Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown

March 22nd 2024

This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series , which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...

Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown

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I think this a really interesting comment - stylistically it does look closer to something by Paul Harnden or Elena Dawson, so I wonder if this might be an area worth exploring. I'm not suggestion Simon go full-on Carol ...

CoatsMarch 22nd 2024

Reader profile: James

February 14th 2024

James is a reader I met in Korea last year. A friend of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the last night with Assisi. James has been a customer of various bespoke tailors for about 10 years, but has largely settled down to using Sartoria...

Reader profile: James

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Not sure of your personal situations but i have a some ecru pants and lighter tops that i also hardly wear. For me, its about a little too aware of the lightness of the pant (how it stands out, even as an ecru) or how th...

StyleFebruary 14th 2024

Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

January 15th 2024

  This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one ...

Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

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It's at waist level, straight...

CoatsJanuary 15th 2024

Edward Sexton overcoat: How great things age

January 26th 2022

  A reader commented recently that if you don’t feel comfortable in a piece of clothing, it’s clearly not for you and you should move on. While I agree that feeling comfortable in your clothes is important to looking good &#...

Edward Sexton overcoat: How great things age

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Well I thought about another picture showing you with a double breasted overcoat and jeans. After reading your comment I see that might just stretch it too far with this one though. Thanks a lot for elaborating....

January 26th 2022

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

March 10th 2021

  This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-be...

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

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Bespoke: - Yohei Fukuda - Seiji McCarthy - Nicholas Templeman RTW/MTO: - Edward Green - Alden - Crockett & Jones...

ShoesMarch 10th 2021

Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?

February 22nd 2021

What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why? I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled waists or stitches per inch. We...

Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?

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Better to know. Lindsay...

ShoesFebruary 22nd 2021

The mock neck

November 20th 2020

I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...

The mock neck

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I don't really like that look with roll necks, but it's worse with mock necks, because you see so much of the collar. Or at least we can say, it's a more showy look that way...

Knitwear - November 20th 2020

Giving clothes a new lease of life: The Valet, Re...

May 31st 2019

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to invest time and energy in your ex...

Giving clothes a new lease of life: The Valet, Re...

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Many thanks Lindsay...

ShoesMay 31st 2019

White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...

November 7th 2018

Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is s...

White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...

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No I haven't, sorry Greg...

Style - SuitsNovember 7th 2018

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

January 22nd 2018

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will have, and bad even if it&...

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

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The top-level Saman Amel is a higher quality make, being hand padded, but I'd still largely pick on which style you prefer. Eg the Saman notch is a big higher...

JacketsJanuary 22nd 2018

Accessories for holiday

August 7th 2017

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday this summer. 1 Bower &...

Accessories for holiday

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Yes, I think a tote of some sort is the best option. And yes, I'd carry it all day...

Bags - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 7th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

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Thank you, and yes you're right. Today I would have had a loafer or two in there, more dark-brown suede, and I would have had a more subtle boot than that chelsea. Overall though, I would also keep bespoke mostly for mor...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer ...

January 11th 2017

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the unique adrenaline hit of retail. ...

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer ...

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No, though it did always seem like a lot! Then there were also various modern reproductions which muddied the waters somewhat...

ShoesJanuary 11th 2017

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

December 2nd 2015

A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favourite craftsmen in ...

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

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I had a chance to meet Eithen this weekend in NYC, where he accompanied Luke and Richard on one of Thom Sweeney's regular visits here. It's exciting to see this still young firm already working so hard to bring in fresh ...

December 2nd 2015

Cleverley bespoke sample sale – one day only

November 14th 2015

Cleverley’s sale of sample bespoke shoes was my first introduction to them – way back in 2009. There have been precious few such sales since, but there will be another on Thursday November 19th, for one day only – 9am...

Cleverley bespoke sample sale – one day only

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You'd do that mostly for the fit, and then for the look, less so for the quality of the make...

November 14th 2015

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

October 30th 2015

A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the back for me), an...

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

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Thank you, most helpful...

StyleOctober 30th 2015

Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World

September 18th 2015

It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World. Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closures. Cleverley and Anderson &...

Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World

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Yes, it's not flannel just a lightweight wool....

September 18th 2015

London: A sartorial city guide

August 12th 2015

I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave too many out I’ll...

London: A sartorial city guide

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Nice to hear Brian...

August 12th 2015

The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...

The Finest Menswear in the World

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Thank you, Simon. Yes, I think makers, especially with own brand, like Zilli and Seraphin schould be in prioritet position. That's why I would add Hettabretz to your selection. I read what Hattabretz small maker with own...

July 17th 2015

Change your laces

May 25th 2015

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. They produc...

Change your laces

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That might be ok, but keep them the same thickness as the sneaker laces - thin ones would look out of proportion...

Shoes - StyleMay 25th 2015

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

April 15th 2015

Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone seemed to really enjoy. And we&a...

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

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I think it can look very nice. Bear in mind that linen and cotton will usually look more casual, though, and perhaps therefore better suited to casual jackets rather than suiting. Lightweight wools are often better with ...

StyleApril 15th 2015

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

January 17th 2015

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

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1. Partly, I'm fairly well into my career and earn decent money now - I couldn't have afforded anywhere near as much 10 years ago. And partly, prioritisation. I know people (particularly women) who buy even more clothing...

January 17th 2015

Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks

December 29th 2014

Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley. Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with the Russian reindeer story &a...

Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks

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Gormley & Gamble specialize in bespoke & MTM for women and are just off the Row. I can’t vouch for how good they are. https://www.gormleyandgamble.com/...

ShoesDecember 29th 2014

Kingsman: British and bespoke

December 15th 2014

Kingsman: The Secret Service launches in the UK in February. There are several nice things about this. Sections of it are set in Huntsman, on Savile Row. The clothing is all supplied by British brands (and nearly all made in the UK): George Cleverl...

Kingsman: British and bespoke

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He was not influenced by Edward directly. I'm afraid I'll have to leave these questions there if that's ok. I can't reply to all of them, but I hope I have helped with your thoughts process. Simon...

December 15th 2014

Russian reindeer box by Cleverley/Balvenie

November 14th 2014

Readers will be familiar with the points about Cleverley and Russian reindeer in the above, but there is some nice footage of the closing on Cleverleys, and the technique of making a wood-framed box. The Robert Simpson factory is one of only a han...

Russian reindeer box by Cleverley/Balvenie

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Very sad to hear the news that Robert Simpson passed away. I met him a few times and he was a true gentleman. When did this happen?...

BagsNovember 14th 2014