What is French Ivy?

May 31st 2021

By Tony Sylvester “A few years back, I posted a photo of Paul Weller on my Instagram (above). It was taken in 1984 in his Style Council era, where much to the consternation of the Mod faithful, he was constantly tinkering with his attire - ali...

What is French Ivy?

Match in comments:
Sorry for the (extremely long) delay in responding but in France jackets/tailored coats and Weston loafers were definitely de rigeur, along with atrachés/ briefcases. In US Ivies it was more OCBDs and (at the time) Arma...

May 31st 2021

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

January 20th 2021

This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

Match in comments:
I think it might be good to try some darker trousers, yes...

KnitwearJanuary 20th 2021

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of...

May 29th 2020

  Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe. This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks – three dif...

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of...

Match in comments:
Yes they're certainly a nice option - I find them a little heavy with the stitching on the front, and the seams running under the rubber at the front. But it's a minor thing. They're all made in the same factory, that's ...

StyleMay 29th 2020

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

May 20th 2020

  Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe. We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in quite a lot of detail...

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

Match in comments:
It would entirely depend on how I wanted to dress Ayush, and my lifestyle...

KnitwearMay 20th 2020

How good is Uniqlo knitwear?

February 5th 2020

Best value product: Uniqlo merino knitwear Runners-up: Natalino trousers, SuitSupply tailoring   When you buy Uniqlo knitwear rather than something more expensive, what are you getting? What is it about the product - rather than where it&rs...

How good is Uniqlo knitwear?

Match in comments:
I happen to have bought 2 Uniqlo merino wool sweaters recently (2 tutrtle necks, 1 thin and 1 thicker) and at the same time similar models from other more luxurious brands (Gran Sasso and a couple of new DNVB's) After on...

KnitwearFebruary 5th 2020

The knitted, fully fashioned T-shirt

August 30th 2019

  When I travel, my default these days is a blouson over shirt and trousers. It makes a nice switch from tailoring during the working days – perhaps a little more comfortable, but more importantly just a change that feels as good ...

The knitted, fully fashioned T-shirt

Match in comments:
Thanks Joshua. Yes, I would. And if I wanted to make everything a little smarter I might balance the knit t-shirt with a loafer....

StyleAugust 30th 2019

How to layer knitwear

January 4th 2019

Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt under knitwear. The multiple layers are also easy to add and remove as the temperature varies. And stylish...

How to layer knitwear

Match in comments:
Oh, that's very good for me! Thank you, Simon!...

Knitwear - StyleJanuary 4th 2019

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

Match in comments:
It is, yes, though I haven't tried others so I'm not sure how much longer other ones are I'm afraid...

Casual clothing - DenimMay 31st 2016

Best of British: Buy your personalised copy

November 26th 2015

My third book this year, published by Prestel and in bookstores worldwide, is now available. It is called Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands. The book covers 14 British manufacturers that are over 100 years’ ol...

Best of British: Buy your personalised copy

Match in comments:
Their top end is still a good level - which is what we feature in the book. But generally the focus of this book is on history and stories of England's oldest manufacturers, so quality was less of a concern (eg Barbour.....

November 26th 2015

The knitted T-shirt

April 24th 2015

It would be easy to ignore the difference between fully fashioned and normal T-shirts or polos. There aren’t many around, and the distinction is subtle. But good examples of the former create a very distinctive look. Ninety-nine per cent of ...

The knitted T-shirt

Match in comments:
I can't say much really Ayush, but it looks OK. Obviously I'd rather not have the logo, but you can't have everything when budget limits choice substantially...

Knitwear - ShirtsApril 24th 2015

Smedley’s slim-fit knitwear reviewed

November 10th 2014

Readers will not be surprised that I consider the John Smedley fine-gauge knitwear the best available for wear with tailoring. Cashmere is often too delicate at this level of thinness, and fine merino is versatile enough to go deal with a broad ran...

Smedley’s slim-fit knitwear reviewed

Match in comments:
I wear our short-sleeved merino in just as hot weather as any cotton...but if you want cotton I'd look to Italian brands like Fedeli, Luca Faloni etc. I haven't searched for any myself, but that will be the kind of place...

KnitwearNovember 10th 2014

Casual, summer, office attire

August 22nd 2014

  Following a request on last week’s Finagon post – the cardigan we created with John Smedley – here are some details on the rest of the outfit, above. One reader drew attention to the shirt collar, a button-down made by Sa...

Casual, summer, office attire

Match in comments:
I don't, no. It can be nice, but not with the kind of smarter tailoring I usually feature...

StyleAugust 22nd 2014

The perfect cardigan – Permanent Style x Sm...

August 11th 2014

THE FINAGON CARDIGAN WAS PUT INTO SMEDLEY’S PERMANENT COLLECTION FOLLOWING THIS COLLABORATION. YOU CAN BUY IT ON THE SMEDLEY SITE. – Last year I began working with John Smedley on our next project – the perfect cardigan. ...

The perfect cardigan – Permanent Style x Sm...

Match in comments:
No, I'm sorry....

KnitwearAugust 11th 2014

The Dartmoor in grey: Buy the perfect polo

January 20th 2014

– NOW SOLD OUT – As flagged up last week, we are now offering a new edition of the Dartmoor sweater – the long-sleeved polo shirt I designed with John Smedley. You voted for our second edition to be in the mid-grey show...

The Dartmoor in grey: Buy the perfect polo

Match in comments:
Thank you for the swift reply!...

KnitwearJanuary 20th 2014

New Dartmoor order! But which colour do you want?

January 14th 2014

– VOTING CLOSED! (Wednesday, 5pm) After a last-minute rush, grey (silver) is the winner. Thank you to everyone that voted. Orders for our exciting new grey Dartmoor – the perfect polo – will start on Monday. I will post ...

New Dartmoor order! But which colour do you want?

Match in comments:
With the three together, yes. And good idea to have some pattern in there so it's not all plain. Could also add with a pocket hank...

KnitwearJanuary 14th 2014

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

September 23rd 2013

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama. Mi...

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

Match in comments:
much obliged Simon. A...

StyleSeptember 23rd 2013

The last few Dartmoors!

September 12th 2013

I have just been told that we have a handful of the popular Dartmoor sweaters left at the John Smedley factory – due to exchanges, production overrun and so on. The sizes available are: Small, seven pieces SOLD OUT Medium, seven pieces SOLD OUT...

The last few Dartmoors!

I have just been told that we have a handful of the popular Dartmoor sweaters left at the John Smedley factory – due to exchanges, production overrun and so on. The sizes available are: Small, seven pieces SOLD OUT Med...

September 12th 2013

Permanent Style collaborations

August 30th 2013

Someone pointed out recently that some Permanent Style collaborations – with La Portegna, for example, or Passaggio Cravatte – have ended without any news as to how they went or the product was received. Both of those sold out, and we s...

Permanent Style collaborations

Match in comments:
I didn't realise that Phillip, would you mind sending me the details and I'll look into it? There may be some excess available Simon...

August 30th 2013

The rise of the polo shirt

August 14th 2013

This past weekend I wrote a piece for the FT on polo shirts, which you can see here. Mentioning John Smedley, Orlebar Brown, Lacoste and others, it is hopefully an interesting update for anyone interested in the menswear staple.

The rise of the polo shirt

Match in comments:
Yes, I have all the kinds. And Smedley itself has made all kinds. Most of my Smedley cotton polos are of fully-fashioned jersey, but a few old ones made for the Richetti store in Parma are of pique, cut-and-sewn....

ShirtsAugust 14th 2013

Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival

July 15th 2013

This past weekend saw the Coronation Festival in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, at which holders of royal warrants exhibited. The royal warrant is not exactly the mark of quality that some might assume, given that it includes Austin Reed and Daks...

Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival

Match in comments:
The latter is more accurate. But K&H are also not really saying they can do anything at all. All adaptation has its limits....

July 15th 2013

Permanent Style x John Smedley: The perfect polo

June 26th 2013

– NOW SOLD OUT – For anyone who likes bespoke or made-to-measure clothing, knitwear can be frustrating – particularly for wearing with that bespoke clothing, where you want the fit and finish to be as precise as the pieces ...

Permanent Style x John Smedley: The perfect polo

Match in comments:
Sunspel...

KnitwearJune 26th 2013

Sneak peek: Permanent Style x John Smedley

June 19th 2013

Next Wednesday, June 26th, we will be launching a collaboration with John Smedley: a unique design that I believe is the perfect sartorial sweater. One or two people commented to me that the last collaboration with La Portegna, which sold out in 24 h...

Sneak peek: Permanent Style x John Smedley

Match in comments:
Thanks for the tip on John Smedley. My two cardigans arrived today. The best knitwear I've ever bought. Will come in handy through this Sydney winter....

June 19th 2013

The Stoll cotton-collar knitter

May 15th 2013

Fans of traditional weaving and knitwear brands are funny about old machines. They often equate old machinery with superior techniques, when the new machines usually do at least as good a job – just faster. Usually the reason the brand still ha...

The Stoll cotton-collar knitter

Match in comments:
i have use stolls for collar like 220 full/ shape callar and use cotton and polyester/cotton as well as polester.WITH MACHINES today that type machine is no longer use .SHIMA SEIKI are use as well as unversal ,or any mac...

KnitwearMay 15th 2013

The John Smedley drum

May 13th 2013

This is the drum of the old John Smedley silver band, which sits in the newly opened Smedley archives and is the focus on my favourite anecdote from the factory’s history. Smedley was known around the region for its silver band – differen...

The John Smedley drum

Match in comments:
Now, as in the current time of the story....

KnitwearMay 13th 2013

John Smedley: the factory

May 10th 2013

Last week I visited the John Smedley factory in Matlock, and it has quickly become my favourite anywhere. The oldest factory in the world still in production, it is nestled in between Derbyshire hills, with a babbling brook (the Lea) running through ...

John Smedley: the factory

Match in comments:
Dear Luke, would it be possible to use your pictures of John Smedley for our display. We are a little store selling John Smedley. If yes, it would be great to have get them in higher resolution. Best regards Peter...

Factory visits - KnitwearMay 10th 2013