john smedley knitwear

 
Readers will not be surprised that I consider the John Smedley fine-gauge knitwear the best available for wear with tailoring. Cashmere is often too delicate at this level of thinness, and fine merino is versatile enough to go deal with a broad range of temperatures. It is also good value.

There are several pieces in the slim fit that I haven’t previously mentioned. Over the past few months I have been trying out all of them, and here are my recommendations.
 

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Matthew
. Perhaps most important for readers that never had a chance to buy the Permanent Style-designed Dartmoor. The Matthew is Smedley’s equivalent for its permanent range, and it is very similar. The collar is a tiny bit lower and the body a tiny bit bigger, but the only significant difference from the Dartmoor is the cuff, which doesn’t fold back. I recommend it. (In racing green above.)
 

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Cleves
. The most useful piece of knitwear you’ll own. A crewneck style, in navy it will go with any jacket (including navy) as a subtle but effective piece of layering. Indigo, above, is also nice – though too similar to denim to wear with jeans.
 

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Kendal
. Most V-necks are too shallow for any shirt, let alone one worn with a tie. This is a good length for a shirt or T-shirt, which is how I wear it – open-necked, with a jacket. The bronze colour, above, is fantastic with a white shirt. I also wear plum with a blue shirt, and navy blazer. (There are also Smedley styles with even-shallower necklines, which are really only good for wear with a T-shirt.)

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Belvoir
 (above, in charcoal) is the rollneck. While I have one, I find all fine-gauge rollnecks uncomfortable on the neck, so rarely wear it. They are very flattering in the way they frame the face, however, and go well with tailoring, so worth a try if it’s your style.
 

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On cardigans, there is the Permanent Style-designed Finagon of course, which I would obviously recommend. But the design and cut of the long-sleeved Kris (above, in midnight) is rather different.

I focus on slim fit throughout, by the way, less because I am slim and more because any man should have relatively close-fitting knitwear under a tailored jacket. For some, that may mean a ‘classic’ fit; but for comfort everyone should tend towards slimmer fits than normal. Good slim-fitting knitwear is also just hard to find.

Do also watch out for the two gauges of merino – 30 and 24. The 30-gauge is the thinner (it’s the number of needles to the inch) and was the material for the Dartmoor and Finagon. For Autumn/Winter, there tends to be more in the 24-gauge. It’s also good under a jacket, but less so for Spring and Summer.

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Anders

While we seem to be on the subject, is there anyone out there who knows where I can find a V-neck lambswool sweater with a V-neck that is big and deep enough to be worn with a tie?
Kind regards,
Anders.

Adam

I actually find that sizing up or down between fits there seems to be very little difference body wise. i.e i wear small in bobby (easy fit) and medium in kendall. it then just comes down to prefferance in length. But i seem to also find in the 24 gauge a need to size up. (medium easy fit and large in slim) due to the thickness. I wonder if anyone else has this issue. but i am so glad i started buying smedley as opposed to other knitwear i used to. it does seem to fit much bettwe once you have your sizing preferances nailed.

Jonas E

Hi Simon, I am going to be in London in a couple of weeks. Could you please give me some good places where to find John Smedley products?

Anonymous

Hi Simon, I recall you a while ago endorsing Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery for close fitting knitwear. Does today’s post now mean that your prefer Smedley over A&S? Also what are the differences, if any, between Smedley and A&S?

Gus

Any idea why Smedley stopped production of the Finagon in indigo?

jon

How do you rate the cotton Smedley products Simon?

BespokeNYC

Adam / Simon, just to be clear, are you saying that the slim fit stuff has the same body shape as the easy fit but a shorter length or that a medium size is similar to a small but has a longer body?

Personally, I love the fit of the slim pieces but they are far too short (I think I must have a freakishly long torso) and barely reach the top of my trousers. Perhaps sizing up to an XL is the solution to get more length…?

David Nicholls

Hi Simon,
Any advice on slim fitting short sleeve polo shirts for summer?
Sunspel and Orlebar Brown look promising.
Regards,
David

Adam

Bespoke nyc. In response to that question in my experience you just have to try as many sizes in both fits as possible. Once you have your ideal then the consistency is like no other brand I have known or used. Which is why I am so glad I now only really but smedley knitwear. I bought my easy fit Ones when slim fit was not as available. I had to size down to get that body size. The length differences are small and the body difference is slight sizing up and slimming down but if I am honest for me a Kendall In slim is better. On the easy I have to roll back the sleeves as far as possible. However the difference is small enough that I am not going to replace them yet but I will as they come to the end of their life. Which actually is so long as they last and last. But that is the fit on me. On you it could be totally different and obviously your preferences will. I actually have a friend who is slimmer than me but his height and frame mean he wears the same size in both fits. But once you start you won’t stop. And there is always really good sales for the more seasonal colours (to fill the need for a splash of colour now and then) because they change them every year with only slight shade differences.

BespokeNYC

Thanks Adam. I’m a huge fan of Smedley and have a number of their sweaters already. Unfortunately they have very few distributers in the States, with only limited ranges, so it’s hard to do much experimentation. They do also sell via their online store but don’t cover the cost of return shipping (fair enough I suppose but international shipping is really expensive for private customers.)

Anyway, the Bobby in L is the perfect length but too baggy, while the Kendal in L is the right fit around the chest, but too short. Think I may just take the plunge and try the Finagon in an XL…

Alex

Prior to this article I’ve been looking at the Kennaugh, but am now wondering what the difference is between it and the Cleves; they same to be virtually identical, crew neck, slim fit, New Zealand Merino wool pullovers. The only difference I can make out from the John Smedley website is that the Cleves has classic fashioned shoulders and the Kennaugh has fully fashioned shoulders; I must confess I’m not even sure what that means, and does it make much difference?

Jerrell

Hello Simon,

Just a quick question about your advice to wear heavier suits. I’m particularly taken with Fox Flannel’s London Lounge book – but each fabric comes in at 18oz (500g). Is that too heavy for a suit? Will it wear hot?

Anonymous

Hi Simon
Very informative post with useful follow up comments, thank you. Reminds me why I read your blog!

Justin F

Hi simon,
i’m looking for a cream color knitted blouson, what’s the best website to search such item? thanks

J

Hi Simon

Can you recommend another knitwear brand that makes a somewhat thicker jumper, could go under a jacket?

I have many smedleys but I want a slightly thicker navy polo neck that they offer. But I am not talking “chunky” either. Seems to be quite a challenge to find a good old fashioned Scottish brand which does.

Cheers

Scott

Simon, you’re exactly right about the quality and design of the John Smedley knitwear being second to none. I recently ordered the Dorset in expresso,the Bryn in bordeaux,and the Wyvern in ski blue. I was also considering ordering the Dorset in british racing green,but decided against it at the time. I’m currently rethinking my position on this color.
Please advise on your opinion of the Smedley british racing green and how to wear it best.

Scott

That’s actually why I like it. How would you recommend wearing the Dorset polo and the Bryn cardigan in this color?

JH

Simon – is the collar on the Matthew high enough to be worn with tailoring without disappearing beneath a jacket collar? I remember that was one of the reasons for a higher collar on the Dartmoor.

Ulrich

Is there any slim cut Smedley T-shirt you would recommend? I recently tried the Braedon, but it’s stil quite baggy, although they say it’s a slim cut.

Jon

Hi Simon, Smedley have a new fit ‘standard’. Do you have any information on it? Regards

Reuven Lax

Went to Smedley last weekend, and left quite happy. First time I’ve found a sleeveless cardigan that was tight enough to look good under a jacket, and without the gaping armholes I’ve grown resigned to. Realized after the fact that I had bought the PS-designed Finagon.

fleyva8

I disagree

Best regards, Florance

Ajay

Simon would love your update on this article. Some of the models listed in the article of been discontinued and oddly have been replaced by models with a different fit than slim. Any thoughts on the current equivalents of the above? Thanks!

Henry

Simon, what do you think about magnetic cobalt color knitwear? Is it versatile enough? Regards Henry

Henry

Simon, agreed regarding cobalt but John Smedley offers Magnetic Cobalt which is much darker in shade…

Henry

Simon, it’s a shade of deep blue