simon crompton with daniel dannefalk of skoaktiebolaget

  
Swedes may be the best-dressed men on earth. At their best, they combine the classicism of the English with the flair of the Italians – without the stuffiness of the former or showiness of the latter. 

(Don’t let it go to your head guys. That’ll ruin everything.)

Although young Swedes today are heavily influenced by Italy – soft tailoring, turn-ups, sprezz – they usually avoid that extra touch of flamboyance, or gaudiness, that the Italians are so susceptible to.
  

Stockholm is a wonderful city to visit and in which to shop. It’s never had the range of menswear stores of London, Milan or New York, but what’s there is always very tasteful and well done.

There have also been good signs in recent years (in common with many capitals around the world), with openings of new, sartorially focused boutiques. 
  

simon crompton with patrik lof of skoaktiebolaget.jpg

  
1 Skoaktiebolaget
www.skoaktiebolaget.se
Humlegårdsgatan 4

Don’t worry if you can’t pronounce it. A great little shoe store, selling Saint Crispin’s, Gaziano & Girling, Carmina, Edward Green, and Enzo Bonafé. Founded by Patrik Lof (above, with me) and some great staff (eg Oliver Dannefalk, with me at top). The name basically means Shoe Inc, by the way. 


2 Gabucci
www.gabucci.se
Nybrogatan 14

Founded in 1994, Gabucci is a multi-brand store selling both casual and formal Italian brands – Attolini and Caruso alongside Boglioli and Aspesi. It also has own-brand tailoring, and is one of the best places in the city for suit advice. They moved location two years ago, into a bigger and much more spacious store. 


3 AW Bauer
journal.awbauer.com
Brunnsgatan 4

The only bespoke tailor in Sweden, pretty much. Founded 150 years ago, it was run by Borje Moberg until recently, when two young guys, Fredrik and Martin, took it over. Fredrik is the cutter, and they now have five tailors working for them (two off site). No set style, but some great experimentation, with an increasingly young client base. Suits start at €4000. 


4 Lund & Lund
www.lundochlund.se
Sturegatan 12

Like many smaller European cities, Stockholm’s high-end menswear used to mostly consist of stores selling high-end Italian tailoring (Kiton, Brioni) and some very English knitwear or accessories. None of them used to have stores of their own, and in a place the size of Stockholm they still don’t – although more such brands open every day.

Lund & Lund was the most famous of these stores, founded as a tailor in 1949 and branching out into RTW clothing in 1963. It is still owned and run by the same family, and the internal decor hasn’t change much. Stocks Belvest, Cucinelli, with a MTM service from Caruso, Corneliani and others.

5 Hans Allde
www.hansallde.se
Birger Jarlsgatan 58

Similar to Lund & Lund, with a history going back to 1949. Stocks Zegna, Corneliani, Belvest and Kiton among others. Also has an in-house bespoke tailor, Annika Hedh, on site alongside made-to-measure from the Italian brands.


6 Herr Judit Sibyllegatan
www.herrjudit.se/sibyllegatan
Sibyllegatan 29

A great vintage menswear store, with everything from Rubinacci to Hermes to Incotex. Nice accessories, bags and ties.

7 Rose & Born
www.roseborn.com
Grevgatan 2

Not a brand we can recommend on quality of clothing, but an interesting young, sartorial store with a good level of taste. If only the jackets weren’t quite so short. 

8 Tweed Country Sports 
www.countrysports.se
Odengatan 98

Reminds me of the odd store you find in Italy that is clearly obsessed with English style and English product. Stocks mid-range Dent’s gloves, Corgi socks and the likes of Magee and Chrysalis. 


9 A. Marchesan 
www.facebook.com/amarchesanstockholm
Odengatan 74

Another vintage men’s store, with a large selection of 1940s-50s suits, hats and accessories. A rather different atmosphere to Herr Judit, but certainly worth a visit. 

 

In the photos I am wearing:

  • Prince-of-wales flannel jacket, Anderson & Sheppard
  • Denim shirt, Luca Avitabile
  • Navy grenadine tie, Drake’s
  • ‘Smoking’ cotton handkerchief, Simonnot-Godard
  • Charcoal worsted trousers, Chittleborough & Morgan
  • Dark-brown crocodile shoes, Gaziano & Girling
      
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Acke

If im correct the starting price for suits on AW Bauer is 3500 euros and not 4000. And Lund&Lund does not sell either Kiton or Brioni, i think they sell some some under label to Kiton wich Kiton does not produce themself.

adam

You mustn’t forget Hans Allde when mentioning Stockholm, a great store with Kiton, Luciano Barbera, Borrelli, Corneliani and its very own bespoke tailoring service. In my opinion similar, but superior to Lund & Lund.

facebook_Calle Melin.609383855

Hans Allde has an inhouse bespoke master tailor (Annika Hedh) and are great at MTH (Kiton, Belvest, Ermenegildo Zegna and Corneliani). I would place them at the top together with Gabucci. But even if Hans Allde has bespoke its not a traditional bespoke operation like AW Bauer.

Frank

There’s a vivid interest in menswear in Sweden compared to most other European countries, that’s true. However, to my eye quite some Nordic men tend to prefer too short and narrow jackets, which looks a little disproportionate on their taller bodies. Your trousers by Chittleborough & Morgan look marvellous. They are slimmer than your suit trousers by them, no?

Incognito

I have shopped from both skoaktiebolaget and herrjudit – didn’t know they were was a link of sorts. And the customer service was excellent in both.

Simon – i am sure you’d disagree – the jacket you are sporting there clearly screams ‘suit’. Those trews are indeed very well fitted.

PL

There’s no connection between Skoaktiebolaget and Herr Judit, other than Oliver (top picture) used to work there before. Great post BTW, very informative. 🙂

Bradley

Hi Simon
Oliver’s trousers (top image) have a great cut to them. High waisted and just slightly baggy on the leg. Very refreshingly classical considering most men today are wearing horribly tight fitting trousers. Would you know if he is wearing braces to achieve this?
Bradley

Peter Bane

A fine guide that definitely covers practically all of the important shops in Stockholm. I’d be most interested in hearing more on why, specifically, Rose & Born are not recommended on quality of clothing. I have several jackets from them (which are, admittedly, on the short side), some of which are produced by for example Zegna, and they seem perfectly fine to my layman’s eyes. I’m not questioning your judgement, as I have had some suspicions myself that shortcuts are sometimes taken in their production, but I’d love to hear more on the issue from an expert. Thanks!

facebook_Calle Melin.609383855

I am not sure about all items that Rose & Born is selling but the tailored items are mostly half canvassed. It´s still good quality but can´t really be compared with Belvest-level items that are sold at Allde, Gabucci or Lund & Lund. But I like the chinos, jeans and accessories that are sold at Rose & Born.

Rabster

I’ve noticed over the history of Permanent Style that the articles have swung from your taste in British to Italian , specifically Napolitian .
So reading this article and looking at the first photo it now seems to me your style is a more congenial Swedish !

mansy

“Swedes may be the best-dressed men on earth.”

This is distressing news indeed. Having been to Strockholm and Gothenburg they’re also amongst the best-looking men on earth. Give us a break guys!

Simon – I’d like to get a navy grenadine tie as it seems to be, far and away, the most versatile one you own. Would you recommend the hand rolled one for the extra cost? Thanks very much

Oliver

Hi Bradley!

First of all; thanks! I am indeed wearing braces.

Have a great day

/Oliver

John

Hi Simon,
Thanks for this very interesting report! “[…] [T]hey combine the classicism of the English with the flair of the Italians – without the stuffiness of the former or showiness of the latter”. That says it all ! I thus assume that PS must have a great deal of readers out there.
Once it dawned on me while watching pics posted from Stockholm and reading opinion pieces and comments from these gentlemen that style lovers are necessarily peace lovers. And while musing over that idea I realized that this must actually be a good thing in today world.
John

Jan Ryden

Nice list, but I think it should also include the original Herr Judit store on Hornsgatan: somehow the godfather of Swedish vintage stores for men. Still running, and larger than the one on Sibyllegatan. However these days A Marchesan is my favourite, and I am eagerly awaiting the launch of their inhouse shirt brand.

Jack

“Style lovers are necessarily peace lovers”. Not sure I follow the reasoning on that one? Not to mention the long tradition of military tailors (particularly on the Row) and the military styles which still influence (and, depending on the tastes of fashion, can dominate) stylish menswear.

jon

Have you any experience with Berg & Berg Simon?

Luke

Hi Simon
Would you mind sharing where you got them trousers from and in what type of cloth?
Thanks

Anonymous

As with Bradley I love Oliver’s trousers – they are very well cut. The idea of trousers/braces greatly appeals – belts can be so restricting. However, the practical issues of wear i.e. ‘comfort breaks’ makes them a little less utilitarian, plus the use of a waistcoat is required in Summer (unless a ‘Wall Street’ look is required). It would be great to see a tailored solution to this that would see the benefits of braces but without the drawbacks. Simon, out of interest why do you prefer pockets cut on the flat (rather than on the slant) – you’ve mentioned this in previous posts…

Anonymous

Simon….whilst I agree in general with your comparative assessment of British vs Swedes vs Italians, your outfit has more thought put into it, being better matched and far more sharply cut than Oliver’s in this particular shot, but I guess it’s all a matter of personal taste!! I’d say us Brits won this one!!!

David Craggs

Dear Simon,
Have you ever done a piece on the benefits/ characteristics of having trousers cut for braces as apposed to side fasteners?
They do seem to make trousers sit perfectly.
Regards,
David

Pwooster

I always commission a suit with brace buttons inside the waistband and side fasteners on the outside.You then have the choice.In order to prevent the trouser hem pooling on your shoes when the trousers are held up just by side fasteners make sure that you tell your tailor to hem them with hardly any break on your shoe.If ever they do sag a little during the day it will be hardly noticeable.It also helps if the trouser width is 17″ at the most.

Peter Bane

Still curious about the assessment of Rose & Born – any chance of getting some more specific input here?

JB

Peter, I can only speak for myself but personally I think Rose & Born offers a good instep level, private brand concept. I myself, as a young man, started my “sartorial experience” with a lot of stuff from them. But tastes progress and develop and it was more than a decade ago since I bought something from them, because what they offer does not appeal to me anymore. Back then they only offered semi-canvassed ready-to-wear (not even MTM, although I believe they do offer this now) and the house cut is not very classic. I would recommend Rose & Born to any young professional who’s just getting into classic men’s style, but I’d never send someone with a real passion or interest for “#menswear” there. There are many other much more interesting places to visit in Stockholm if you’re into classic men’s style. Just my two cents.

Felipe

Hi Simon,

Do you have any shopping guide for Prague?

Thanks,

Dan Ippolito

It’s remarkable how an A&S jacket makes even a slim guy like Simon look more powerful and athletic.

Rik

Can the navy grenadine be worn with more formal suits as well as the mixed ensemble like this?

Peter Bane

Given the rather strong phrasing (“Not a brand we can recommend on quality of clothing”) I still think further clarification of what exactly this refers to concerning Rose & Born is required. If you feel unable to specify this (perhaps because it comes from a reliable local source, but you have not personally had the opportunity to look closely at the clothes in question?), it might be best to tone down this opinion a bit in the orginal text. Just sayin’… 🙂

Albannach

Dear Simon,

Do you happen to remember from what bunch the flannel for your A&S Prince of Wales suit comes?

Thank you.

Jon

Do you have any experience with Carmina Simon? Seems like a nice RTW shoe at a great price.

Vincent

Simon, any plans for covering Geneva?

David

Vincent, I make the occasional trip to Geneva. Would you happen to have any recommendations?

Matt

Good morning Simon
Are you still today mitigated about Rose & Born quality ? I was thinking about a cashmere knit and a coat from them ?
Many thanks in advance for your advice !!
Best,

Karl

Sadly Herr Judit closed it’s shop at Sibyllegatan some years ago. Their shop at Hornsgatan 65 might be worth mentioning though. It has some nice brands and formal wear even though it is not as good as the one at Sibyllegatan was.

Lindsay Eric McKee

Have you heard of Stenstroms shirts. They supply the Swedish Royal family apparently. I accidentally found their website today…..very nice!

Noel

Hi Simon,

I’m not sure if these guides are meant to be updated, but Tweed has moved to Odengatan 98 a year or so ago.