This time of year we normally run our Permanent Style Awards, where readers vote for their favourite brand or shop in a handful of categories. I then profile the winners over the following month.
This year I thought we’d do things a bit differently. Rather than brands, I’d like to know what your favourite pieces of clothing are - in order to recommend specific things to readers, with specific reasons that help them decide for themselves.
I think this will be useful, as it gives particular recommendations rather than just shops in general - almost like an expanded ‘Top 10’ piece. It also means we avoid repeating previous awards.
So, these are the categories. Please let us all know what single piece of clothing you would list in each one, and why:
- Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
- Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
- Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
- Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
I’m particularly interested to hear what people put for number 4. We talk a lot about luxury clothing, but it can mean quite different things to different people. To one person it might be a bespoke fit in jacket, to another the feeling of 12-ply cashmere, and to another the knowledge that no one else owns the same piece of clothing (as with vintage clothing).
I do hope you find the exercise interesting. I know other readers will find the recommendations valuable.
I'll do a follow-up piece in a week or two, summarising some of the nominations and also giving my answers.
Thank you
Simon
Imagery: top, my Whitcomb & Shaftesbury wrap coat, from the tailor's award for best artisan last year; below, the luxury (materials and rarity) of the PS Plaid jacketing material
Morning
Can this really come to life without photos. I could write about my favourite bespoke commission of 2021, but in words only it won’t mean much to others will it?
I think you’d find it would Richard. Readers talk all the time about their bespoke commissions – what they love about them, why they made certain decisions – and others find them very useful.
Of course for the ready-made pieces you can also add links if you wish.
Thanks, and nice answer on number 4. No worries on adding one or two more…
Hi Simon,
Those are some tough questions to answer! I’ll give it my best.
Do you want our response here in the comment section or sent somewhere else so that others wont be able to guess at the results?
In the comments section please Rune. So everyone can read everyone’s
Alright.
1: Adret Riveira jacket/shirt. This has really worked for me in both home, office and when going out for dinner. It has character without being dramatic and I always feel good wearing it.
2: I dont know if I have 1 piece, maybe the jacket mentioned above, instead I will say that I have really come to appreciate the socks from “mes chaussettes rouges”. I never wear anything else if I can get away with it.
3: The options for real bespoke work is a little lackluster here in Copenhagen sadly, there are a few with Savile Row prices but none of the pedigree and I just dont think they have much “style”. So currently my favorite is actually a MTM suit made by Mond of Copenhagen. You get to choose everything from fabric, to shoulders, construction and much more. They also do a 3D scan of your body (although I dont know how much it adds since they still do the normal measurements as well.
4: I was tempted to say one of the above. Instead I will chose something that is perhaps a bit of a taboo here on PS, but I was gifted a colorful D & G Casino jacket that I have used for a few cocktailparty occasions and I absolutely love it. It feels nice to the touch and I get more comments in that than anything else. It only works for parties, and facy ones at that, though.
Thanks Aaron – particularly on the first two as I didn’t know those brands
Seconding the Darn Tough recommendation. Through-hikers love them. They really are far more durable than other socks, while still being smooth and fairly soft. And now they make a wider variety of heights and weights than in the past.
Most of their offerings are in bold colors and patterns. If you don’t want that, try the “Tactical” line for solid drab ones.
Hi Aaron, I also mentioned Aran Sweater Market and that smell is so genuine. What sweater did you buy if I may know?
Just to second Aaron’s comments, today I received a Guernsey fisherman’s sweater in charcoal. It’s everything a wool sweater should be : heavy, itchy and smelly.
There is also a colourful line of wool v necks for those who prefer a non shaggy wool jumper.
A tip for readers who wish to use Aran Sweater Market, register for emails before you order, there is an extra discount.
Cool idea. I’m looking forward to the readers’ answers.
1. Doek Oxford Shoe in ecru. I had forgotten how practical sneakers can be.
2. This is easy: Signature Trousers from Adret. I wear them almost every day in summer and the feeling of freedom of movement they give you is wonderful. Could also be number four.
3. I’m too impatient for Bespoke.
4. Pecora Nera Wool Bouclé Sweater in taupe from De Bonne Facture. Good knitwear always gives me a certain luxurious feeling. And this is by far my favourite jumper. The wool is softer and more comfortable on the skin than cashmere. The look is unusual but at the same time it doesn’t stand out too much.
1. Yohei Fukuda split toe derbies in dark oak grain, via Mark at The Armoury
2. Chapal x Rake USAAF leather jacket – my wife got me this for Christmas a few years back (from the first PS Shop pop-up I think) and it is spectacular
3. Almost impossible to pick…. I will get around it by declaring a tie and choosing another item for #4. My two choices for this will be the navy, one-button, peak lapel blazer that Joe Morgan cut for me back in 2016 and a more recent jacket made my Sartoria Corcos in London Lounge tweed
4. A double breasted charcoal cashmere overcoat made by Joe Morgan. The weight of it; the structure; the incredible hand. It is an almost supernatural piece of clothing
1. A jacket by Saman Amel (Napoli line) made in PS Harris tweed.
2. A Schott chocolate brown leather flight jacket from a wonderful shop called Helen’s Leather in Boston fifteen years ago. Wear it every year and it has aged beautifully. Also serves as a reminder of the couple of months I spent in Boston. The other one is a ‘brown sugar’ Valstarino I bought a couple of years ago. I always feel good wearing it.
3. A pair of chocolate brown calf oxfords by Dimitri Gomez in Paris.
4. Same as 3. The intention was to have the shoes made as a memento of my time spent working in France a few years ago. I’d say the luxury aspects are the exclusivity and actually meeting and spending plenty of time chatting to the man who made the shoes by hand from start to finish. Dimitri is a lovely guy, a master of his craft and not highlighted as much as some of the other bespoke makers out there. The shoes fit better than any shoe I own (including C&J, EG and G&G, albeit RTW), are understated but beautiful and frankly reasonably priced for bespoke. It feels luxurious knowing that they’re a unique pair of shoes made for me.
I’ve been regularly reading PS since its launch and I’d like to thank you for imparting all the knowledge that has informed my decisions in purchasing and commissioning items that have brought me considerable use and pleasure.
This is not an easy question….
1. A Donegal Tweed Overcoat (moss green and oat herringbone tweed) from Magee – sorry Simon, I bought it before you launched your collaboration with Private White VC.
2. A 6×3 button double-breasted suit designed by Paul Costelloe which by its style had a degree of authority (or so I was told). which turned out to be very useful on the business trip for which it was bought.
3. A shawl collar Aran sweater – very traditional and the last thing my mother knitted for me before she decided that that was someone’s else’s job (it still fits).
4. I want to say a pair of simple red-gold cufflinks (Birmingham 1911) that my wife bought for me one Christmas but you did say clothing so…. a Gloverall duffle coat, maybe not very luxurious compared with the meat and drink of Permanent Style but I have had one for ever and when I go walking on a cold and windy day I still find that it’s the thing I reach for that accommodates all the layers necessary to stay warm. I have many modern alternatives but there’s nothing that is as much my style in the winter than that.
1 Navy Blue long sleeve Polo from Luxire with a butterfly collar.
If you can stomach the Customs duties and tariffs these are very very good .
2 Incotex trousers and , if I may have a second , Boglioli suits .
I learnt about both brands from PS .
Although I would only buy them at heavily discounted prices as both brands are eye wateringly expensive !
3 Denim shirt by Simone Avaitable ….. got into denim shirts after hearing about them from PS , from where I also learnt about Simone, a wonderful warm personality.
4 Trunk Clothiers geelong jumper .
Very light and very warm .
Rather more then I would normally pay for a jumper but really enjoy wearing it .
Really looking forward to others responses. Over the years I’ve picked up and discovered so much about other brands from PS readers .
Thanks Robin. Presumably you mean Abbarchi not Avitabile? Or do you mean Luca Avitabile?
Yes ??
One I’ve tried , Simone , the other I hope to try , Luca .
1. Favourite item from 2021: PS x PWVC Herringbone Donegal Coat. This winter it has turned into the default “grab on the way out” outerwear and I’ve received a considerable number of compliments about it – many of them from complete strangers!
2. A charcoal double-breasted Yves Saint Laurent suit from the early 90s. I still have it, although sadly it no longer fits me (either it has shrunk or I have expanded). It was my first “nice” suit and opened my eyes to tailoring. At the time it represented the very essence of “suited and booted”.
3. I had my first fitting a couple of weeks ago on my first bespoke sports jacket, which is being made in the PS Harris Tweed. Special mention must also go to some of the sweaters which were hand-knitted for me years ago by my late grandmother – barely a Christmas or birthday passed without at least one new pullover! As with the YSL suit, I still have several of them even though they mostly no longer fit me.
4. Probably a fairly heavy rib-knit cashmere rollneck in a now-discontinued deep amber colour, from Johnstons of Elgin. I bought it in their sale in late 2020 and it was my first cashmere sweater – a revelation. Luxury, to me, feels like it should mean comfort – I would find it difficult to think of something as luxurious if it were uncomfortable, at least if speaking of clothing. This sweater is one of the most comfortable things I own – it’s a bit like wearing a hug, the cashmere is deliciously soft and warm and slightly slouchy in fit.
1 – Fresco blue jacket Maison Pen (Paris); it’s versatile
2 – Carmina Chelsea Boots; I think when you go to Carmina it’s better to buy their boots, great leather, aging well.
3 – Grey Herringbone Jacket (fabric from Standeven) (Young bespoke tailor), It’s expensive but I wanted to know the difference between MTM and Bespoke. It’s versatile but I don’t wear it too much, maybe because it’s expensive.
4 – Chambray shirt from M.Lucca (58 Bd des Batignolles/Paris), (Fabric from Lafayette Saltiels) He knows exactly what he has to do, the collar is great (button-down), I wear it every week. If you know what you want, he is the best shirt maker in Paris, he can tell you why Jean Cocteau’s shirts is feminine, what’s the difference for the shirt between me and someone who is taller. However if you don’t know exactly what you want it’s better to go to Courtot.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
Probably the same as my no. 3 answer but a close second is my new linen suit for the summer. A deep blue linen, wool, techlana mix from Holland and Sherry. I wore it throughout the summer in 44 degrees heat with high humidity and I survived while looking stylish.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
A pair of Levis 511 jeans. Just can’t find any I like better and have tired everything form Uniqlo to Calvin Kleins
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
My grey chalk stripe suit made from VBC flannel
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Not really clothing but I got my first automatic watch this year. A Frederique Constant antique styled dress watch. Not that expensive in the scheme of things but pricey for me and I really enjoy wearing it.
Good game. Love to join in. Sorry for the long answers but really enjoy this!
1. Edward Green shoes. Have 6 pairs, all more than 15 years old, running the gamut of Loafer to Oxford, Derby through Monk. Two black pairs and four in varying degrees of brown, tan, suede, pebbled etc. I love polishing them and cleaning them, popping the cedar trees in and out, and of course wearing them. They’re bullet proof and fantastic. Each has been repaired (resoled two times at least) though I never spent the money on an Edward Green reconditioning (currently a peppery £275) and always went with the best independent cobbler for around half that.
2. Aquascutum raglan raincoat. The original (pre Chinese VC brand vacuum). Incredibly simple but very well made. Now ancient, perhaps 30 years old, but constantly in rotation and a real staple.
3. Loro Piano heavy cashmere bomber. It’s a bit of a hybrid design-wise, between a US style baseball jacket and Valstarino type jacket. Woven in an amazing dark grey/brown marl, with goat suede elbow patches and trim on the pocket flaps, also piping on zip placket. Probably today I would spend the equivalent sum on having something made for me, but this is an old faithful, also more than a decade old.
Thanks Simon!
1. Observer Collection jeans. I love the cut – high-waisted but with a slimmer leg.
2. Drake’s Crosby Desert Boots. Never found another shoe as comfortable and versatile. On to my third pair having completely worn out the previous ones.
3. Stoffa trousers, although I have not had the opportunity to buy much MTM
4. PS Donegal Coat in brown. The weight, deep flecked colour, texture and details lile the cashmere lined pockets make it feel like a true luxury piece
Interested to see what others come up with.
Thanks Stuart. How long did the Crosby boots take to wear out? And there was no resoling possible?
Hi Simon. I got 1.5 – 2 years out of my previous pairs, however this was with almost daily wear and and a fair amount of abuse (I live in the country and would regulary walk 7-10k on forest tracks in them).
I have to admit I was lazy on repairs, and probably could have got longer out of them. I am embarrassed to say, but I have only been taking suatainability truly seriously over the last year or so. However, I am determined to have this pair last longer and look at repairing them when they do inevitably wear out.
Thanks Stuart, good to know and understand
A fellow observer, I see!
Holy moly not easy to chose one but it is possible…..
Favourite 2021 item – Oni Chino. Fit, cut, material, all perfect for me. Sometimes ‘Favourite’ can be replaced by ‘most successful’ Shopping a lot (really a lot) online means not trying before buying and errors do happen, not often, but they do happen. Successes also happen of course. The Oni chino was one such success…. Chinos and Jeans are two items of clothing that I believe ‘the perfect pair’ does not exist… but I will continue to search for them. This pair of Oni just worked and, for 2021 at least are the perfect chino.
Favourite item of ready made clothing ever – Ralph Lauren embroidered white shirt. Its gone now, (lives in my memory) died an honourable death after years of service. It was a light soft cotton with white embroidered flowers all over it, sounds a tad effeminate but never seemed to be, I am guessing my huge masculinity overwhelmed it. Bought too many years ago in a small shop in Singapore, the shirt was made in India, never seen one before or since. Having been repaired too many times it needed to retire as it became too delicate. Before anyone accuses me of not owning my favourite item, I still do own it, but now it helps apply polish to my shoes and another part exists as a pocket hanky (thanks to my nimble stitching fingered other half)
Favourite Bespoke – Anderson and Shepherd blue three piece suit. Oldest suit in my wardrobe yet still makes me feel great when I wear it. Like many chaps I have drifted into more relaxed Italian cut suits/jackets but each time I climb into this A&S suit I ask myself why and make a decision to go back to English tailors.
Favourite piece – Cotton scarf – Odd one this and the most difficult of decisions as I have many things I am attached to and would be in the running. This French army issued thin cotton scarf, its a light beige version of the blue Tuareg headdress, as simple as can be, 2 metres long and 1 metre wide. It was gifted to me by a Foreign Legion chap (gifted? well my need was greater than his and he should have taken more care of his equipment) I take in on every trip I make, it serves as a scarf, a headdress (Think Arab), a wrap, a towel, a blanket, and padding to wrap anything delicate in. Its the simplest of things but the one thing that I would save in a fire (well, maybe)
Hi Gary, could you comment on the fit of your ONI chinos? How high is the front rise? Thanks.
Hi David, Ah the rise….they are very low rise, I dont have the measurement to hand but the they are the lowest rise trousers I have, almost too low. They are also big fitting, I went by online measurements (on the site) and went smaller than my normal size but they still need a belt. If you do want measurements just say and I will get it done
Thanks, Gary. No need, since you say they’re low rise and I’ve been on the hunt for something with a rather higher rise.
Love this idea Simon!
1. This year, I found a 1990s brookes brothers ocbd in peach on ebay… I usually find pink a bit too corporate but this shade is perfect. Not too cold, not too bright and goes with everything.
2. Definitely my selvedge jeans from burgus plus and Co. They look better and better over time and the fit is perfect.
3. My first mtm suit was a chocolate linen two piece. Probably not the wisest first suit but it makes me happy every time I put it on… Already dreaming of the day it comes back into season.
4. A few years ago, I found a Czech (I think) chore jacket in a vintage shop in Sheffield … I’ve never seen anything quite like it since and value it immensely. It has few points of difference that set it apart from other chore jackets. For example, it’s made of a subtle navy herringbone and has metal buttons.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
This piece of knitwear from Heimat
https://www.heimat-textil.com/product-page/mini-roll-neck-sweater-seashell
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever.
Private White Harrington.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever.
Hand knitted Aran sweater (made by my mum)
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
I have a vintage Lands N Lakes 3/4 suede/faux fur jacket, made in St Paul Minn. Everything is cheap, but solid, and has accompanied me for many years. It just fits perfectly and each little repair brings a memory. Now many relegated to dog walk duties, it’s still my favourite jacket.
Simon, maybe worth looking into the design of the comment box – it automatically discovers you’re trying to make a numbered list, but then, when posted, the numbers don’t show, which makes for a slightly confusing read.
Hmm, ok thanks Robert, I didn’t realise that
Each time I tried to write ‘2’ for the second item it changed it back to the number 1. Yup, its a thing… are you and your web geeks anti numbered lists?
That would be a weird thing to be against. No, it’s just a bug and we’re looking to fix it.
you can write a numbered list. One has to hit enter to trigger the next numeral, but can then delete to ‘regret’ and carry on with no numbers.
Robert, I’m also in Poland (Warszawa) and would really like to hear more about Wielki Shoe. Do you have an Instagram where I could get in touch?
Robert, I’m also in Poland (Warszawa) and would love to hear more about Wielki Shoe. Perhaps off the comments section.
1: Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021 – Anthology camel Permanent Style polo coat. I wondered if I’d get enough wear out of this, but it’s been brutally cold here in Tokyo and this beautifully made, elegant garment has been a life saver. Great service from the Anthology people too.
2: Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever – RL purple label blue linen coat. An unusual garment but it stands out without being overly dramatic. I have had many compliments on this. Never seen anything similar at RL or elsewhere, so very glad I nabbed it for half price in the sale. Worn countless times.
3: Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever – I don’t have a lot of bespoke, but Kathryn Sargent made a pair of ‘Cary Grant trousers’ (modeled on the pair he wears in the opening scene of To Catch a Thief, which appeared to hang beautifully and fascinated me somehow). She did it to perfection – smoky grey wool cashmere mix, with pleats. I wasn’t sure bespoke trousers were really worth it, but this changed my mind.
4: Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials) – see number 3.
1 N/A nothing bought in 2021
2 A Burgundy cashmere jacket bought in 1981 in the South of France after a big win at the Casino. It still fits and is still worn when the occasion is suitable. I have never subjected it to heavy wear. It has aged very well
3 A Bespoke Navy 2 piece suit Edward Sexton made me in 1982. A perfect example of how great items age
4 Difficult choice.However, a double breasted shearling jacket I bought in the sale at Giorgio Armani a few years ago
My favourite item of clothing I bought in 2021 must be my bespoke Fox’s x Permanent Style ecru cavalry twill odd trousers made by Whitcomb&Shaftesbury.
As I’m in process of upgrading my wardrobe I don’t have many ready-made garments left but I would say I appreciate most the NW1 raw denim jeans made by Blackhorse Lane.
My all times favourite semi-bespoke garment is my Marling Evans tweed jacket made by Prologue Hong Kong. It’s just so versatile.
My favourite piece of ‘luxury’ accessory (not clothing) is my Michel Heurtalt’s bespoke umbrella – it’s hard to compare with any other umbrellas I ever came across, the make is absolutely different class! Secondly it is a beautiful accessory and when I open it and have someone near by they almost always ask who made it as the opening sound is so different and unique!
Simon, here goes. Best wishes. N
1) I think it may well have been Permanent Style Finest Polo. I love how low profile it is: no one is really going to think you are overdressed with a simple polo. But the quality is so many levels above what you find, the fitness, the size of the colar, the deep color you get with the merino…. You get immediately better dressed without anyone being able to tell really why
2) I think it is Ciffoneli Hand-knitted Sweater https://onlineshop.yandsons.com/items/41161891. I love how the 6ply cashemere cocons you, the Hand-knitted front that gives a nice detail and stop it from being plain, and the cream color that immediately makes it feel “chic”
3) I have some itens in the process of being made, but way delayed because of covid so I don’t have any to really share
4) I think it is a second hand Cromford leather jacket (yours Simon). I really love the texture, the color, the thickness. Even the way it is slightly aged appeals to me (I’m not a fan of vintage normally). The leather feels so much more interesting than what I see RTW in fashion stores (normally syntethic or bad quality leather) in a way that made obvious to me the quality differences. Before this jacket, I really never saw any really top quality leather jacket and thus always wondered “How good is it actually”. The answer: much better
Hi Tamaki, have a look at Aero Leathers in England. Top quality RTW. I have a Highwayman in horsehide. I wear size 52 suits and their 40 fits me with room for a jumper underneath.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021:
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De Bonne Facture Granddad Coat. I actually bought the 2020 herringbone version, not the 2021 one. It’s hard to find a double breasted raglan coat and something about this coat is so good. It’s pretty roomy for size (for example I wear a EU46 and can easily wear a Patagonia retro x fleece in small under and button it up if I want). Raglan sleeves mean it’s pretty forgiving in terms of fit. Proper length. Love way they did the belt in back with that thing in the middle so that it won’t slide off. Only wish pockets went a touch deeper.
Stock pic:
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever:
Iron Heart sweatshirt. I have numerous loopwheeled sweatshirts and to me the IH is my favorite cut and probably the most comfortable. I actually originally bought it as a gift for dad but after trying it on decided to keep it for myself and got him something else.
Stock pic:
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever: N/A. My wardrobe has definitely gotten more casual over the past 5 years so less custom commissions and frankly I’m fairly easy to fit so most RTW work for me. If I had a do over I’m not sure I’d go the custom route to begin with. I think everyone who goes custom definitely makes mistakes in terms of getting some quirky detail they initially think is cool but then ends up aging badly. It’s time consuming and very expensive. In addition, there’s a lot where the end result doesn’t seem satisfactory and frankly would’ve been cheaper going RTW + tailor (especially for suiting/sport coat). There’s definitely a small population where their body is not within ‘normal’ where they need to go the custom route but for most I’m not sure I recommend custom. Go custom for the romance and if you appreciate the craft, but don’t go in thinking you will get a perfect fit on the first try.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.) I thrifted a vintage burberry balmacaan this year and love it. Oversize brown herringbone pattern with donegal specks. It has a full camel wool lining inside which you don’t see as much these days. Most coats are either partially lined and mostly with bemberg/satin/other ‘smooth’ fabric for ease of putting on. It also has the pass through pockets so that I can reach into trouser pockets without unbuttoning coat (again, not a common feature these days. I believe SEH Kelly makes coats with this but not sure of any other RTW brands doing it).
Great points on bespoke SJB. A lesson learned after a first bespoke commission for a navy two piece last year. Much as I think it’s great, there are changes I’d make. I’ll be going RTW and alter if need be for a sport jacket in the future. Maybe return to bespoke for a suit or two one day, but my lifestyle simply doesn’t require bespoke tailoring just now, much as I love it. I will continue to admire it on others .
1) My first ever bespoke linen shirts; after I got them, I wanted to throw away the cheap RTW I had bought in the previous years, but decided I’ll just wear them out at home. Classe 82, Milano.
2) A vintage Tyrolean coat in water repelling blue loden. I cannot fasten the buttons if the temperature is above freezing; I can walk a couple of hours while it’s drizzling or ten minutes while it’s pouring down; thorns and branches never made a dent. Moessmer, Bruneck–Brunico. I must have paid it 40€, best deal I had in my life (not counting my wife) but I would consider it the best ready-made piece of cloth I have even if I had paid it full price.
3) A sport jacket in Cacciopoli tweed I had cut for me by Vergallo in Varese.
4) I know it sounds stupid, but the piece of clothing that feels most luxurious to me is a merino scarf I bought from Aran Sweater Market a couple of years ago. Just a pleasure to touch and wrap around my neck. I’m sure that a thick cachemire one would be even better, but I’m so prone to leave scarfs and hats on the train that I would never dare buy one before retiring.
1. Tie between Iron Heart 17 oz denim jeans and Incotex brushed cotton trousers.
2. Smartwool 100% Merino Wool 1/4 zip pullover long sleeve polo shirts!
3. MTM suits (3 pc & 2pc) by Martin Greenfield Clothiers in Brooklyn. I wear them with extreme pride as if they are bespoke!
4. My light brown dress shoes which have received artisan patina treatment by Chris Dillon (New Jersey) who runs “American Patina”.
1) A denim shirt from Spier and Mackay. Probably the most versatile shirt in my wardrobe now, worn with everything from seersucker shorts to a jacket and tie for a lovely tonal blues look. Also enjoying it subtly ageing, softening and changing hue gradually over time.
2) My Barbour Beaufort (made for Japan edition). Bought in the John Lewis sale two years ago when I couldn’t really afford it, it’s hardly left my back since. Brilliant all-rounder for 9 months of the year. The ‘Made for Japan’ editions are not waxed cotton, but a still waterproof cotton/poly mix. Whilst it won’t age in the same way as a normal Barbour, it is easier to maintain (being machine washable) and cuts a dashing figure in town.
3) 2021 was the first time I made a custom purchase, two pairs of trousers from Luxire. The second, a pair of green/grey chinos are my favourite, as they inch ever closer to the ideal fit.
4) the Kelly green Gant cashmere crew neck I received for Christmas. Initially the price was unnerving, but once it’s on it’s the subtle design details that elevate it beyond my normal Uniqlo knitwear to feel luxurious. The cuffs have long, generous ribbing, as does the collar, and the colour (which I searched quite some time to find) is a statement without being garish or vulgar.
Hello Simon. Happy New Year 2022!
4.My favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing I bought in 2021 is the Double RL Brushed Jacquard Overshirt. It is extremely soft and feels like you’re wrapped in a warm and cozy blanket in cold winter days.
Thank you Simon for nailing each of these item of clothing for me and help create a basic foundational wardrobe of casual styles.
1. J. Girdwood Teba Jacket in Tweed – perfect smart casual layering
2. Barbour Bedale coat in wax cotton – rugged and elegant outerwear
3. Saint Crispin’s custom Derby in dark brown calf – first time I’ve ever felt comfortable in smart leather shoes
4. Omega mechanical wristwatch – from my grandfather, only heirloom I have
1) Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021 –
The PS/PWVC Walk Walker I bought in March. Great fit, lovely details, way better than wax jackets I’ve previously owned from other brands. Has served me well throughout the year in battling Swedish weather conditions.
2) Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever –
Favorites tend to change based on circumstances. I’ve spent the larger part of last year at home with my 1-year-old son. Two things spring to mind that I’ve especially enjoyed during that time: 1) A Burberry balmacaan coat in navy gabardine that I bought in London about 12-13 years ago. Still great in every way and has gotten a lot of wear. Lovely to just throw on when going outside to play with my kids. 2) Uniqlo cashmere knitwear. I’ve lived in these things during parental leave, and their affordability makes it easy to justify wearing cashmere while tending to a 1-year-old with all that entails regarding dirt, food stains and what not. Going back to previous years, it’s probably my navy sportscoat from G.abo Napoli in a super-soft hopsack that I’ve been wearing on an almost weekly basis for 6-7 years.
3) Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever –
N/A, have mostly commissioned shirts and one DB jacket in navy flannel about 15 years ago that sadly was a disaster.
4) Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.) –
If watches count it would have to be the solid gold Omega I inherited from my grandfather, just because of what it means to me (and the fact that I’ve never seen that watch anywhere else). Apart from that, I’ve yet to come across any piece of clothing that beats the feeling of putting on a great pair of flannel trousers 🙂
Favorite thing bought in 2021
An Adidas hoodie. It has a deep, close fitting neck and is enormously comfortable and warm in Canadian winters.
Favorite RTW clothing ever
A gore-tex ski jacket I purchased 30 years ago. It as been on many ski trips, hikes, camping trips and other adventures. It is still strong, hasn’t needed any repair and has a beautiful worn in patina now. I regularly get compliments on it. The way it’s holding up it could outlast me. A perfect example of buying quality clothes that last and stay stylish.
Favorite bespoke/MTM
A chambray button down collar shirt from Luxire.
Most luxurious
Merino wool shawl collar cardigan from Spier and Mackay.
1 Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
Yeossal forest green MTM safari jacket. Lovely roll down to the waist button and a low button stance – very flattering
2 Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
Spier & Mackay 340g Irish linen navy sportcoat
3 Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
Maste Xu wheat linen sportcoat
4 Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Wool scarf from Caroline Murat Menswear. Seen here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B6-STWoJaE_/
US$80 for a wool scarf isn’t terribly outrageous but the colour and the patterns are exquisite.
I’m not sure if shoes count as clothing.
Favorite items purchase 2021: A Filson’s quilted, lightly waxed Jac Shirt in olive. Medium weight, insulated, perfect for long walks in the forest with my dog in fall and spring in New England. Dressed up with flannels. dressed down with jeans. And a mustard Macao wool and silk tie from 40 Colori – thanks to PS. They widened it to 8cm from 6.7 for me. Cassandre at 40 Colori was wonderful
Favorite ready-made ever: A wool, subtle plaid, half button wool shirt from Louis, Boston, by Mariano Rubinacci, purchased in the 70’s. Tucked into flannels, over a shirt and tie, it still is the essence of casual elegance.
Favorite bespoke: A dark navy Harris tweed overcoat by Joe Calautti of Rizzo’s Tailors. We went together to the movie Dr Zhivago to get the idea correct. It is double breasted, very long, belted in the back – and very tailored. As it had been altered over the years as my shaped has changed, I no longer wear it with a jacket beneath, but thanks to PS inspiration, I wear it with a turtleneck or sweater – and tie. Since I am 80, it looks to the uninitiated as if I and the coat are from the same era. With a Locke fedora, my grandchildren call it “My Godfather Coat.”
Favorite luxury: A pocket watch and chain from my grandfather. He was a tailor in St John NB and with money from the first suit he made, he took a gold 1902 Edward VII sovereign and attached it to the chain. The watch is an Illinois, the watch, chain and pocketknife, very heavy gold. I am named after him so the initials work. Sadly he was injured at the Battle of Vimy Ridge in World War I, France and died young. I wear it with a Donegal three- piece suit that Joe Calautti also made for me – in 1978 – a suit not unlike the PS article “Brown in Town.” Together, the watch, the suit and I have been to many occasions over the years, weddings, funerals, marriages. So together, the ensemble conjures up memories and a past that is part of who I am. And that is the luxury for me. Dress for the occasion and not for yourself – we are not what we wear, but where we have been.
Many thanks to PS for lots of ideas and wonderful to read what others have found of value.
Jack Williams
Jack, this comment is fantastic. I want to be this stylish at 80.
1. N Peal cashmere blazer
2. A&S shawl neck cardigan
3. Richard Anderson 1 button SB flannel suit
4. Edward Green suede belt
Moorer Florio Winter Jacket in Navy Blue – Such a warm, but super lightweight jacket with a double breasted dressier look and shiny substantial horn buttons. A casual jacket with sartorial details that marries form and function perfectly
Will be interesting seeing how you collate and report back on the answers Simon. I think you’ll be pleased to see the influence that PS has on its readership – I know it does on me!
John Lobb Lawry Suede Chelsea Boots, a first for me as I have never worn chelsea boots and am surprised at how comfortable these are and how great they look and pair with jeans and casual wear.
Ermenegildo Zegna Cashmere/Fur Lined Short Jacket, very luxurious and warm while easily played down by removing fur collar. Retail was over $17k US, I paid less than 10%. Pays to have connections and friends =)
Cesare Attolini Duvet Cashmere Full Zip Sweater, incredibly comfortable and wearable. I pair this with 70/30 Cashmere/Silk Attolini long sleeve t-shirts.
Loro Piana Grande Unita Cashmere Scarf, up or down formal/casual, wearable
Orslow 107 denim, proper fit and cut for middle aged men, like me
Bemidji Woolen Mills Vintage Wool Mackinaw, great pockets, layering piece, handsome
Filson Jac-Shirt, similar to the above in solid black is a great casual piece
James Purdey pebble grain derby by Crockett and Jones, essentially the Consiton boot in shoe form with danite sole.
1. Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021: a pair of vbc covert twill trousers by Collaro. Ok, so technically it arrived early this january, but was ordered back in 2021. As this is 4th trouser I’ve got made by them the fit is at a point where the only things I would change, would be because of a swift in my preferred aesthetic (which at the moment is: a high rise, with a full leg – it goes so well with the heavy covert cloth :))
2. Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever: since I got into tailoring, which bear in mind is only 3 years ago as I’m only 19 years old now, I almost immediately made the jump to custom/mtm. Certainly not because I can easily afford it lol (definitely not that), but moreso because I’m willing to wait a long time in between purchases. To come back to the question that means I haven’t got many rtw pieces that I still wear as my style has drastically changed. My favorite piece is actually a pair of really wide Uniqlo womens (yes actually) jeans in beige. They just work wonders with my casualwear although I would see how they wouldn’t be for everyone.
3. Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever: for my birthday last year I decided it was time to buy my first quality suit as I had plenty of trousers and flight jackets/chore coats, again from collaro. It’s made up from a lovely mid brown (like a toned done tobacco) heavy linen from spence bryson. This suit is the only reason why I am looking forward to warmer weather.
4. Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.): I don’t own many items that I would consider ‘luxury’ per se. But I do have a heavy scottish cashmere turtleneck that I found in a vintage menswear shop in Amsterdam. It’s a joy to wear and probably the closest thing a have to a luxury piece.
1 – Connolly Driving Sweater in burgundy. The most I’ve spent on a piece of knitwear and without question would spend it again. The cashmere is superb but more importantly for me the sleeve is a smidgen longer than most other sweaters out there, which for me, makes a big difference. The style of the side opening zip on the neck is not for everybody, I get that, but for me it was a practical reason. A close second in this category was the Brycelands sawtooth denim shirt (thank you to your pop-up shop).
2 – Quite a difficult one to answer. Not clothing I know, but I will still probably go with my EG Dover’s on the E606 last, Dark Brown Oak. Just beautiful. Wear them with jeans, no problem. Wear them with the right trousers, no problem. Exceptionally comfortable on my feet too.
3 – The three pairs of Levis Lot 1 jeans are my favourite MTM items by miles. I’m a relatively late comer to the bespoke world but in the last 8 years, I’ve had some beautiful bespoke shirts, trousers, suits and jackets made but the Lot 1’s are without doubt, the go to items, pretty much any time.
4 – Again, not clothing and may sound silly, but my favourite ‘luxury’ item and for some reason the thing that sprung to mind when thinking about this question, is my 40cm/16” real horn shoehorn. Mine was from Drakes. With high-quality, well-fitting shoes, the satisfaction you receive from the feel and sound of the foot slipping into the shoe is so good. Totally crazy I know!
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
I bought a pair of brown leather sneakers from the Thursday Boot Company in the USA this year and they have been something I have worn most days. I had intended on purchasing a pair of common projects, but I could not justify their increased price point. The sneakers from Thursday Boot Co were of premium quality, fantastic value for money (at a landed cost to the European customer..!!) that I have since bought 3 pairs in different colours.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
I bought the Begg & Co PS Navy Cashmere Scarf and it has since become a staple accessory whenever I leave the house. The length enables it to be worn with Jackets and Coats, the colour is so versatile and the cashmere so soft. Small, simple and elegant.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
This is the easiest question I will ever answer. It is the PS Brown Harris Tweed Overcoat that I had made bespoke. It can be worn with Jeans, Chinos, trousers and looks great with all three. I would politely argue that given the versatility of a tweed coat, that it ought to be the first thing anyone should consider being made bespoke. It is the item I wear most and receive compliments about.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
I bought a light blue, BD denim shirt from Fiorenzo at D’Avino shirts. It is the softest and most pleasing shirt that I wear. It just seems to improve with age. One of my kids left a sweet wrapper in the washing machine and unfortunately there is now a faded little pink patch on the upper left sleeve that I cannot remove. Nevertheless, it still gets worn just as much…….even with the tattoos of family life.
1, Alden Dark Brown Suede Chukka Boots
2. Ring Jacket navy balloon hop sack sport coat
3.The Armoury City Hunter II but in a dark brown hop sack cloth by Fox Sport
4.Anderson and Shephard Grey Merino Wool Cardigan- Aside from the indulgent chunkiness and hand of the knit, I live in Florida so the lack of practicality makes it feel overindulgent
1. Velasca Friulane in Black Velvet. I prefer them over Sagan Lune to be honest. I wear them all the time and with everything. At home of course.
2. Saint Crispins Mod 524 in Brown Suede. Technically the last is adjusted but since you can buy it ready-to-wear as well… Otherwise John Lobb Lopez in Tobacco Suede. I prefer them over EG Picadilly. (Which I also wear frequently)
3. Corcos Brown Doppio Uso. One in Navy is also in the making.
4. My LV Monogram Keepall which I bought second-hand about 12 years ago. Obviously I wouldn‘t buy something showy as this today, but the fact that it‘s that old, still in great shape, gets used a few times a year and still has resale-value, gives me pleasure. Ultimately that’s what defines luxury for me. As others have mentioned watches: The same reasoning goes for my Nautilus, which I bought before the hype. It‘s hard to wear it nowdays, but I wouldn‘t sell it neither.
This greatcoat by Frank Leder that I saw on Peter Zottolo’s instagram. https://www.instagram.com/p/CI7WyL5LUQ-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link.
FL told me they still had the cloth and could make it to my measurements and RTW price (980 Euros) being 6’2” this was amazing and I had it made with a collar to hem length of 130cm. It is my first coat of this length, quality and price and I am completely blown away by how good it looks. I think you reviewed this coat briefly when you visited NMWA in NYC a couple years ago and mentioned how tight it fitted, that is true which really suits my needs as I almost never wear a suit for work or leisure.
It only took 3 weeks from commission to delivery!
2.Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
Probably my Carmina Oxfords ( MTO rather that completely RTW) or Crockett & Jones’ black wholecuts. Though I mostly wear chelsea boots and loafers for convenience.
3.Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
The Frank Leder greatcoat above. Same for question.4. Though I would save a special mention for Casual Fitters, a small MTM tailor that made 3 pairs of odd trousers for me in 2021. Price-wise it was very accessible for me (£150-200 depending on cloth) which made my first foray into finer clothing much easier. I would recommend younger readers especially those just starting out to check them out if you live in or around London. Whilst not much pricier, it’s a huge step up from fast fashion brands such as Massimo Dutti, Reiss etc. I would caution against making too many pairs at once like I did though, as it does take time to really find out what you want, and with more expensive clothing you really want to avoid making something that you lose interest of quickly.
Hey Simon can you take out that whole second bit. I think it just copied from your article. Thanks!
Sorry Joel, which bit? Doesn’t look copied to me
Sorry, my browser was putting several together with mine. No worries!
Oh good
Hi Simon,
American Trench military spec socks
Trickers logger boots
Real McCoy chinos
Real McCoy sweatshirts
Best,
Andrew
Real McCoys chinos and sweatshirts…. excellent kit!
Fun topic
I love this idea! Looking forward to reading others’ choices. I hope my picks are up to PS Readers’ exacting standards…
1. 1960s US Navy Rigger’s peacoat.
Incredibly warm and robust coat. It survived ‘Nam so it can handle anything a London winter can throw at it! For the worst weather, the collar will stand up nicely adding an impenetrable layer.
Very slim fitting (better not put on any weight!) with a stylish boho mod look that’s (imo) wearable enough to avoid being costume: a lovely bit of everyday flair.
2. BLA E8 Slim tapered jeans, 15.5oz Turkish raw selvedge denim.
I could have picked from quite a few recent purchases (and nearly all would be recent, I’ve definitely raised my RTW game since embracing the PS ethos of less and better)
On the one hand, it feels a bit lame picking a pair of blue jeans as my favourite ever but on the other hand, they’re hands down the garment I’ve had the most use from. I wear them day in, day out. I instinctively reach for them any day I’m at home. I’m wearing them right now (with my BLA X Hadston belt which is also wonderful) and I’ll almost certainly wear them tomorrow.
I can’t imagine a better pair of RTW jeans and even if I went MTM the tweaks I’d make would be tiny and inessential. The silhouette is flattering while the fit is comfortable. The fabric feels like you could drive a tank over it while still being comfortable to wear.
I know jeans are hated by some PS Readers but hopefully we’d all agree form must follow function and given I spend much of my time in playgrounds or wrestling my 3 y.o. son in the living room, jeans it is!
3. Gunmetal grey 3 button s/b mohair tonic suit by George of Haringey.
George is a very genial elderly Greek chap who I believe trained at Gieves & Hawkes. He and his wife are extremely welcoming & knowledgeable. I spent happy hours listening to his stories of London in the swinging 60s while having my suit fitted.
I seldom get to wear a suit these days, which is a shame but when I do, it’s nearly always this one I reach for. TBH I doubt I’d comission something this stylised these days: it’s your classic 3 button 60s mod style suit. The details are quite subtle though: covered buttons, deep red stitching on the final button hole of each (working) cuff. The dark colour means it doesn’t stand out as a flashy suit either. If I went the whole hog with a high collar and little knitted tie it could be cartoon mod costume but paired with more contemporary items, it always draws compliments. Very flattering, especially with only the middle button fastened and dresses down surprisingly well with mock necks and polos.
4. Alfred Sargent chocolate brown Suede Chelsea boots.
I struggled with this one the most. I don’t own many items which would necessarily be considered luxury by PS standards!
These were the first good shoes I ever bought (from Discount Shoe Sales in Victoria) when I first started earning a decent wage. They certainly felt like a luxury at the time: the nap of the suede was soft and smooth to the touch.
The fit was and is like a glove and the last suits me perfectly too: slimline and elegant without becoming effeminate or straying into pointy boot territory.
They’ve aged incredibly well. I’ve had the heels repaired a few times but the original soles are still going strong. They lift any smart casual outfit. When we’re going out, my wife nearly always asks me to wear them.
That was fun. Sorry for the essay! Looking forward to reading the follow up article.
1. A2 Goatskin Pilot Jacket by Cockpit. 2. Eddie Bauer white linen long sleeved shirt with flap pockets. 3. Raw silk blue double breasted blazer with white pearl buttons 4. Long double breasted camel hair polo coat.
no 1: Rubato V-neck in fawn
no 2: currently no 2 or 4, but depends on my mood in the morning and could be another item 😉
no 3: pea coat made by my Bangkok tailor
no 4: Colhay’s chunky shawl colllar cardigan in ecru – it feels so comfortable and soft – so versatile for dressing up (denim shirt with striped knitted tie) or down (t-shirt)
no 5 (an item I like to buy in 2022): denim shirt, one of Simon’s coats
1) Stoffa chocolate brown cotton trousers. I spent months looking for brown cotton trousers in a very dark brown shade. These are flat fronted with side adjusters. The look manages to be both contemporary with a ever so slightly 70s vibe. They look fantastic with a button down shirt or with a Friday polo. I can’t wait for spring to arrive so I can wear them again.
2) Levi’s 508 mid blue denim jeans. Fit perfectly and have lovely frayed areas and real character. I’ve had them too long to remember when I actually bought them! It’s the only pair of jeans I now own and will need until they are patched all over.
3) This is tough but it’s a brown and white stripe poplin shirt with button down collar by Simone Abbarchi. Lovely to wear in the summer as it’s both crisp and cool without the creasing of a linen or linen/cotton mix.
4) Anglo Italian cashmere/wool mix button through cardigan in brown. I spent over a year researching for the perfect brown cardigan. I wanted a button through design with a collar and this fitted the bill perfectly. The cashmere/wool mix manages to be both soft and robust. It works beautifully with flannel but also at the weekend with vintage denim. It’s ever so slightly big on me (marginally) so I’m thinking of getting the same cardigan mtm with a cm or so off the shoulders and chest.
In April 2021, I bought myself a pair of the Crockett and Jones „Molton“. It‘s my first pair of handmade shoes, and I‘m totally blown away. In the first days, they just stood in our bedroom, as massive like a small furniture. And I realized the big difference between the passionate work of a shoemaker and the simple results of mass production – in every aspect of the creating process.
From now on, there will be no turning back. This pair of boots changed my whole point of view on style, clothing and craftmanship. I started to explore brands like Loro Piana, Edward Green, Drake‘s, Private White V.C. etc. I can‘t spend a lot of money for this kind of clothes, I have to wait six to twelve months for something new, but i enjoy the search for the next piece.
I don‘t want or need to be the guy who suddenly wears shoes for 350£, only
because to make the other people watch and talk. I do this for my own, because I love the way it feels, when I wear these boots.
1) Brycelands Denim Sawtooth Shirt. I love it because I can pair it with anything including tailoring to pull off a less staid look.
2) The Flat Head Horsehide Single Rider Jacket. Shinki tea core dyed leather that is rugged and good looking. The arms folds and patina that have developed after four years…to die for!
3) Yuki Inoue Milano bespoke Ulster coat in taupe Standeven Escorial cloth that has the soft feel of cashmere. Inoue san, a master tailor who apprenticed at F. Caraceni, is a typical Japanese craftsman – what he makes is nothing short of perfection.
4) Kilgour, French & Stanbury silk and cashmere scarf with hand tied silk tassels. I bought this in the mid ’80s as a present for myself from Barney’s New York after graduating from NYU and landing a job at J. Henry Scroder Bank and Trust. 30+ years later, KFS is gone as is JHS, but this scarf is still keeping me warm during the winter months.
1. Probably Real McCoy’s chinos, with honourable mentions for a Drake’s merino v neck in grey, Oni 622 jeans, and a Fox Brothers scarf.
2. Tough question.. I have a lot of clothes that I like, such as various pieces of knitwear from Trunk, Drake’s (as above), Jamieson’s of Shetland etc., sweatshirt by Cushman, Oxford/flannel shirts by Gitman Vintage, a nice dark chambray shirt by Salvatore Piccolo, Denim work/western shirts by Spellbound, t shirts and polos by John Smedley, Trunk, Sunspel, Allevol and Warehouse, chinos/trousers by Real McCoy’s and Boglioli, Jeans – again the Oni 622 (try in Aizumi Black/Blue from Son of a Stag) and accessories like my plain black baseball cap from Muehlbauer and a flat cap by Lock & Co. There are definitely too many to mention but I will perhaps go for the Resolute 710 jeans because they can be used both smart(ish) and casually having a medium rise and nice straight fit.
3. Easily an Elia Caliendo jacket made with an Anglo Italian cloth.
4. Also as above, but will go for my Edward Green Banbury chukka boots, which just seem to fit perfectly and which are essentially beautiful.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
Many readers will know Stoffa. Agyesh’s partner Mia Morikawa runs an exceptionally sustainable ‘seed to stitch’ brand called 11.11 (Eleven Eleven). I’ve brought a few pieces but I think my favourite is a pair of indigo-dyed shorts. The cut is classic (some of their pieces are more experimental) but everything about them is a studied exercise in craft – the handwoven fabric, the hand-dyed indigo colour, the meticulous construction, and the small areas of contrasting hand embroidery.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
A gilet from one of Antonio Ciongoli’s last collections for Eidos, in an indigo dyed diamond pattern cloth. It’s an example of when RTW works well – a piece that is so creative and different.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
I’m still a happy client of Russell at Graham Browne. A little before Covid he cut me a beautiful tweed jacket out of a length of Hunters of Brora 26oz tweed, and it makes me smile every time I wear it. 2 button single breasted with just enough belly to the lapels, and a strategically placed button so you can pop the collar and button it to the neck. And the cloth – such depth and diversity of colour in something that initially presents as a classic shade of green….
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Some years ago I found a bespoke Cifonelli safari-style jacket, in a bright green narrow wale corduroy, in a consignment store for the price of a decent lunch. It’s the very epitome of Arnys left-bank chic, and has impeccable hand stitching throughout including along every single seam. It defines luxury to me because of its’ sheer excess – there is no way I would pay to commission it new, but I greatly enjoy wearing it.
Great idea Simon, the recommendations from other readers are indeed enjoyable.
1) Favourite item bought last year: a crewneck shetland sweater from Bosie in a rich shade of grey called sea pearl. I can thank you and Manish Puri for that.
2) Favourite ready-made item ever: a 30 yo Dale of Norway sweater. Mostly navy blue with some white stars and red details, still in top form despite the abuse. An authentic and more sustainable alternative to synthetic Christmas and ski sweaters.
3) N/A.
4) Favourite luxury clothing item and why: I had some answers in mind which felt obvious and just not right (the thickness of a vintage Old England cashmere cricket sweater, the fit of the PWVC Harrington, etc). Having looked up the definition of luxurious, it also means something that gives great pleasure. My take is a 1000D Cordura duffle/carry-on bag from Savotta, suppliers of extreme weather gear to the Finnish military. The uncompromising construction and materials means the bag can carry 200 kilos, be dragged from cars and thrown from cliffs. This professional dedication feels luxurious to me. Certainly an odd choice for a classic and luxury menswear site, but the enlisted do refer to this kind of kit as “Gucci” after all.
My best wishes for this New Year to the Permanent Style team and readership.
2) They don’t make them anymore, though I have pleaded. Would happily pay a premium to get more of them, but they say making them destroys the teasels. I’m talking about a 6-ply brushed Shetland from Bosie. I sized up for it (I also have an unbrushed one that I didn’t size up for and it fits more properly, but the bigger sizing is better here). The volume of the sweater is very flattering on the arms and shoulders. The brushing combined with the thickness also makes the sweater a little stiff–but not in a bad way–which makes the extra room in the chest flattering as well. Most of all, though, the sweater is just very plush and woolly and there is something satisfying in that. For those who are wondering, the sweater is not too warm. The knitting isn’t the densest (again, probably a good thing here).
4) A William Lockie Chirnside in a lovat color (William Lockie higher-ply cashmere in general might be a good choice). It’s their 4-ply crewneck cableknit model. You can get them a bunch of places. I consider it a luxury because I think cashmere in general is pretty excessive: I don’t think it looks any nicer and my sweaters never touch my skin so the softness doesn’t make much of a difference. Still, there is something very nice about higher-ply cashmere.
1. Does a watch count? Jaeger LeCoultre duoface Reverso, blue dial.
2. My Barbour Bedale jacket. I wear it so often. Very comfortable and practical. If it ever wears out, I will buy another.
3. My only bespoke items are currently being made by Huntsman. Two sport coats, blue houndstooth and gun club check. Can’t wait. Should be done in the spring.
4. Loro Piana cashmere sweaters. They are so comfortable. I own three so far and need more.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021:
Brycelands sawtooth denim western shirt. Absolutely brilliant in cut and material.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever:
RRL barn jacket. This was from a small run of USA made denim barn jackets with corduroy collars and action backs. Different enough from a Type II denim jacket to stand out a bit. Denim is bleached, and looks good over chinos of all colors, flannels, or black jeans.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever:
Sport jacket cut by Tom Mahon at Redmayne. Light navy finmeresco with a pale blue windowpane check on top. English draped jackets are such a delight to wear. Travels very well and has proven to be quite robust.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Bespoke sport jacket cut by Henry Poole. A few cutters worked on this jacket, but the result is a phenomenal and flawless fit. This is one of the few pieces of clothing I own where complete strangers have approached me to compliment how nice it is, and I think it comes down to the fit. A West End cut, but the nipped waist and neat shoulders create a very impressive silhouette. It is a navy jacket with patch pockets, in a wool / cashmere blend, beautifully made, and it acquits itself so well at less formal evening events with or without tie. Wearing it elevates the occasion. Truly a suit of armor for the modern man.
These are good questions to think about on a winter’s night altho they require me to review the list I recently did of last year’s purchases, look at my wardrobe photos (and now walk back to look at my clothing collection as I’m writing this):
1-Bought in 2021: A tie between my Ben Silver Camel Polo coat (I always wanted one), Lobb Ltd. bespoke black oxfords with embroidered shoe bags-see 4 below, Budd Soyella bespoke shirts-4 also and Poole Travel Trench coat in blue. (I seem to have trouble making choices)
2-RTW ever-Hard: More ties: Poole/Canada Goose W1 navy wool/down Blazer, Rowing Blazers blue traditional wool rowing Blazer, Old Stewart tartan trousers, O’Connell’s Viyella shirts (12), Piana cashmere sweater, Budd dark green wool robe with red piping (ask me tomorrow and the list would likely change)
3-Bespoke ever-Also Hard: Poole bespoke DB navy suit (so far-have Range Rover fabric jacket being made up), Lobb Ltd. bespoke dark brown half brogues/bags, Any of 6 bespoke Budd shirts.
4-Luxury clothing/reason: More than hard: (also likely my most luxurious item is yet to be made: for my 80th birthday in six years, hopefully, I plan to have Poole’s make up a bottle green velvet smoking jacket with all the frogging)-For now: Budd cotton pajamas with robe in 2 above-for how they make me feel when wearing; Cashmere sweaters i.e. Piana, others for their incredible softness; Budd bespoke shirts in 3 above for their perfect fit/feel; Poole suits for how they hang and look; Lobb Ltd. bespoke shoes for how light yet absolutely solid they feel and their heritage. Also as others have posted here there are a number of things I have I feel the same about and appreciate as my clothes i.e. fine watches and pens, and luxury leather items including a century old Bentley’s Norfolk hide attache, one from Globe-Trotter in green/bridle leather and a tan by Alfred Dunhill, Chester Mox French leather wallet in Hermes orange, Goyard/Moynat/Hermes portfolios and two green and bridle leather pieces of luggage, among other leather items (Connolly, Papworth, Lotuff, Ettinger, Purdey, Valextra, Launer).
I have a reasonably (or unreasonably) large clothing and accessories collection that I’ve added to for decades; in the last 5-10 years including bespoke and luxury items. Trying to choose “the one” for your questions is as you can tell beyond me. Do with this as you will.
Randy Ventgen
Vancouver Washington USA
1. Joseph Cheaney Penny loafers. Been looking for the “perfect” Penny Loafer for 2 years now and then by coincidence found that one in a store.
2. My Cruciani cashmere crew neck. I bought it in a second hand shop around a year ago. Later that day I learned that my grandfather has passed away, so it’s a piece of clothing that’ll remind me of him. I often have memories attached to clothing and this has to be my most emotional piece of clothing.
3. No bespoke clothing so far. Probably will go for my first bespoke suit after finishing my bachelor.
4. All my suits and sports jacket I wear in the office. I don’t have to wear them in my working environment and it is a luxury for me to just dress up because I want too.
What an interesting request! Really got me thinking
1) A Ciccio bespoke grey herringbone coat – perfect fit – very light, fits with both suits and casual
2) A Canali cashmere top coat – it fits magically, like a bespoke. I have had it for 7 years, really holds up
3) Dark brown double-monks from Yohei Fukuda – such a beautiful pair of shoes! The line (in French: la ligne, not sure of the translation) is so pure. Could be a 4) as well
4) 2 items here, one is the PS Donegal overcoat – for the weight and the cashmere pockets. That’s really a fine detail. The other would be a blue cable-knit cashmere sweater from the Cashmere Polo Club (in Mauritius), very soft, fits well and I love this impression of quality make and luxury for an otherwise very casual piece. To add a last one, perhaps an old pair of Edward Green Chelsea boots that have that well worn look and patina (and fit)
There is something in the “hidden” luxuries / quality for sure.
you know ive started buying a lot used products specifically for this reason. i find it hard to inaugurate brand new expensive products. And even then I wear it very consciously, trying not to get it stained or damaged. Compare that to a lightly used pair of GnG shoes, Burberry trench and a beaten horsehide jacket that I picked up and I wear fearlessly.
1) Brown suede Valstarino (https://www.valstarmilano.com/the-valstarino) – I feel amazing when wearing it, and the texture is incredibly sensual. Living in Scotland you don’t get to wear it as much as in other parts of the country, but that makes it even more special somehow.
2) I’ve got a very old Ballantyne sweater; it belonged to my grandfather, was passed on to my father, and now I’ve got it. At one point (as a teenager) we got a whole collection of them, but being very young didn’t appreciate them. I only kept this one, lovely V-neck cashmere sweater. It still looks amazing, and wear it whenever I want to feel my dad around me.
3) 3-piece Gieves & Hawkes suit; I’ve had 4 MTM suits with them, and a petrol blue one – originally done for my wedding – is simply the most amazing, elegant, fitting, suit I’ve ever worn
4) Same as 3, my G&H suits – even though I don’t wear suits nearly as often anymore, there’s something special about a suit cut specially to fit you. The difference in how you “move” and inhabit the clothes is significant, specially as I don’t have standard proportions, with particularly short arms in comparison with torso, and skinny legs.
Hi Simon,
1 – Has to be my Drumohr cashmere sweaters. So soft, warm and looking good on Zoom
2 – My Caruso Aida jackets. I have two, one in linen and one in wool. Aside from the fit, the attention to detail in the production makes them almost pieces of art
3 – My dark grey and navy blue suits, sadly not worn for a long time
4 – A Herno parka. I normally wear a parka from Aigle as they are well made and can take a lot a abuse when walking in the countryside (before that it was Barbour, but I found that modern materials really are more comfortable on long walks in bad weather). The Herno laminar parka cannot take the abuse, but the way it is made, the quality of the materials and the overall feel make it outstanding for use in town where it is rapidly replacing my covert coat as the preferred option
1. The PS cashmere rugby;
2. A flannel shirt I bought at Barney’s (NYC) years ago. Don’t recall the maker; it’s in another location now ;
3. Difficult to say–as many positive experiences as negative. That said, a Graham Browne suite made back in the day (2009). A heavy blue flannel;
4. A DB overcoat from Graham Browne, also back in the day, modeled on yours Simon: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2010/12/its-time-for-overcoats-2.html (If link doesn’t work, see December 8, 2010 post). Mine is a mid-gray wool, heavy and feels like armour whenever I wear it–alas, less these days.
1 – A toss up between:
PS/100 Hands chambray shirt. Sorry to be a suck-up but this is my favourite shirt, period. I think the first batch were made to the same size as the Oxfords, but don’t have the shrinkage, so the medium is perfect for me (I find them a tiny bit slim otherwise). I’d buy another but I think the sizing has been corrected!
Trunk Berwick Shetland in pebble grey. Only got into shetlands a couple of years ago, after reading about them here. My natural inclination with knitwear has always been a bit more colour but this is endlessly versatile and I’m currently wearing it several times a week (but making it sure it’s rested in-between, natch).
2 – PWVC navy Ventile Harrington. A brown suede blouson is a beautiful thing but too luxe for my lifestyle to be useful every day. This is perfect and if I had to wear just one jacket for the rest of my life, it would be this.
3 – My wedding suit. It’s made in Porter & Harding Thornproof 62261. At a glance the shade is a touch lighter than navy but it’s full of orange and red flecks, and even some turquoise. Got married five years ago and in all honesty if I was doing it again (the suit, not the wedding) I’d pick something a bit more traditional and versatile. But I still love it.
4 – A pair of Oliver Peoples Emerson frame glasses. The top half is black and they move into a muted green at the bottom. Bought them ten years ago, just from David Clulow on Upper St, but haven’t ever seen the colourway anywhere else and don’t seem to be available anymore. Love them so much and am terrified they’re going to break one day.
I’d also like to echo, Simon, what I know other people have said above. Reading this site has taught me a huge amount. Much of my wardrobe these days is based on what I’ve read here and I’ve never felt happier with my clothes in general. So thank you!
Hey Joe – worth checking with the Support team, but I think the current chambray shirts should be the same as the one you have. It’s the oxfords that have changed a bit.
And thank you!
Hi Simon, how have the oxfords changed? I find my PS oxfords(bought early 2021) a little tight across the chest in medium, but the PS chambray perfect in medium. Thanks.
We are making them a little bigger, to account for that slight shrinkage
Great initiative, Simon, and really a lovely way to reminisce on our year in menswear!
Here goes mine:
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
-Drake’s light blue OCBD. It is a perfect fit and ticks absolutely all the boxes for me for an OCBD: beefy yet soft fabric, perfect collar roll and behaviour of the completely unlined collar, with tie or unbuttoned (both one and two buttons undone), nice details such as hanger loop and pen pocket, really nice MOP button, excellent make. Really love it and consider it a perfect OCBD. Have since purchased three more (darker/classic OCBD blue, white, ticking stripe).
To add a good measure of a favourite accessory in 2021, it happens to be the same brand’s navy grenadine grossa tie.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
-Classic dark wash Levi’s 501. Fit me great, look great, very versatile. Have a 9-y-o one still going strong and with awesome ‘whiskers’ and other fading, and recently rotated in a fresh pair to wear with sport coats.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
-A bit of a cheat as it is a ‘respoke’. I snatched an unworn handmade Roman suit by Sagripanti made for someone almost exactly my size for cca. $300. Both the trousers and the jacket fit unbelieavably well, especially the trousers, and the suit is just so sublime with a lovely Loro Piana fabric. It is also a regret as I didn’t take the light grey from the same batch, regretting it to this day.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
-This one is pretty rare and although super-luxurious I got it for a penny on the dollar. It’s actually two suits by Attolini made in unbelieavable worsted cashmere in super classic charcoal and navy blue. They just feel so soft and beautiful to wear, yet look sharp as hell, and fit me incredibly well, basically perfectly. Ideal business suits, great and rare finds as Attolini can hardly ever be found in those classical versions for any remotely affordable sum. The amazing fabrics they are made from are so luxurious and I guess quite rare, never seen worsted cashmere before. It looks just like wool, but softer to the touch. The fabric seems to be high twist plain weave, gets back to shape amazingly and holds a crease really well. The style is great with slightly lower gorge, big straight lapels, 3-roll-2, con rollino shoulder, slightly longer, single pleat trouser, seemingly all handmade incl. the trouser fly buttonholes. Just amazing suits that exude smiles whenever I wear or even see them. Look like armour and feel like silk pyjamas.
did you get the mid-blue or the ice-blue from Drakes?
thanks!
Hi! It was actually the ice blue, just now checked.
Hands down, my Weston 180 loafers in black and brown. I’ve had them (brown) for 20+ years and (black) for 10+ years. I live in Florida, so no socks. I keep them in trees and polish them regularly.
They will probably outlive me and will never go out of style.
1. Walker Later great coat in Super Heavyweight Burgundy Wool.An amazing piece that feels bulletproof and always gets me loads of compliments
2. Belstaff Trialmaster jacket in Mahogany . It was a gift from my wife for my 40th birthday a couple of years ago. One of the most versatile jackets I own and waterproof due to being a waxed jacket. Plus I can get get re-waxed for free in any of their stores.
3. my DB pinstripe suit from Mason and Sons. It’s by far the best fitting garment I own and i wear it at least once a week
4. an old RL cricket jumper in cashmere mix. I got it on sale when a luxury shop was closing down in Bangkok. It is just something very special and I love wearing it
Hi Simon,
This is a fascinating challenge; here goes:
1. A microfibre (polyester) with padded inner raglan raincoat from Giorgio Armani (A Milano Borgonouvo 21 – black label). It’s dark blue, very long, and looks wonderful. All for €90.
2. A Giorgio Armani (A Milano Borgonouvo 21 – black label) grey / brown double-breasted suit from A/W 1986. Just a great suit that draped and flowed. Perhaps his best collection
3. A double-breasted grey stripe bespoke suit by Kilgour from 2001. Oh, the fit….
4. A Missoni sweater from A/W 1981. Almost impossible to describe, the best I can say is that it was a melange of colour knitted in 2-dimesions. These were very limited in number. I still have it, but it’s a “touch” too small. Why this? It encapsulated everything that was special about Missoni
Thanks for the inspiration this exercise provided.
Philip.
Colhay’s shawl cardigan, I don’t want to take it off.
1- It has to be the Crockett & Jones cordovan loafers, or a brown linen suit I picked at Suitsupply in summer.
2- My navy DB overcoat.
3- No bespoke or MTM clothing yet.
4- I would have to go again with the overcoat of #2. I thrifted it back in Argentina for little to no money, but the fact that it’s a 6×1, and I have never seen any other like it, means that I will probably have to go bespoke when I need a replacement.
1: linen safari jacket from Pini Parma
2: wool blazer from Boglioli
3:bespoke tweed gun check jacket done for me 35 years ago but still nice
4: Dark green cashmere V neck from Fedeli, owned for long but still wonderful, without any pilling , very soft
Tough one but
Favourite 2021 : one of Luca Avitabile’s Almes RTW shirts in Navy blue brushed cotton. It fits as well as bespoke, and can be worn everywhere from a ski chalet to under an odd jacket on a night out, and is also mega cosy
Favourite rtw
Incotex caramel coloured cords. Wear with shawl cardi in navy or grey, or odd jacket in navy or black, and everything from a navy through pale blue to white shirt.
Honourable mention for my Edward Green Sandhirst Anniversary shoes in rosewood country calf. Bought in a sale!
Favourite bespoke
Solito jacket in grey Escorial with navy over check. I go to the mill to buy the fabric, and meet Luigi in London, both the process and jacket are wonderful !
Favourite luxury
Pal Zileri vicuña overcoat, bought in a sale, in black with a subtle herringbone weave. Shoulders are like butter, and it goes with loads of stuff.
1) Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
A ‘newspaper boy’ panel tweed cap from Stumper and Fielding. it has the retro vibe I like; it is immensely practical in colder weather and it goes with everything from workwear to suits.
2) Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
So man so I’ll pick a really cheap one. Cotton lisle socks from Pedemeia in forest green. They add a bit of elegance but also of variety to otherwise ‘serious’ outfits, without descending to the awful ‘fun socks’ category.
3) Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
I have a custom suit (blue birdseye suit from Ede & Ravenscroft) that looks so good on me that people that never comment about clothes come up to me and touch the lapel. This, on a rather low-profile garment.
4) Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Quite simply a few tasselled silk scarves. They are not that expensive, they last forever but they make basic outfits look like I’m heading out to the Wolseley. They just *feel* like luxury.
My favorite pieces from 2021 are all the trousers I bought from AngloItalian and the dark olive cashmere cardigan shirt from Colhay’s. My favorite ready-to-wear pieces are some twenty-three-year-old mid-brown suede semi-brogues from Edward Green. Let’s just say they have plenty of character by now. Another is a perfect blue-and-white striped oxford shirt made by New England Shirt Company in New England. I wear it with everything, take it on every trip. My favorite bespoke pieces are patch pocket tweed or wool jackets I’ve gotten at Meyer and Mortimer in London. I tried to pick a favorite and couldn’t, but this morning I’ll describe one: a jacket Mr Lewis made for me of Black Watch kilt cloth. It has patch pockets and dark horn buttons. My favorite luxury items are a Jaeger Reverso watch, and a rusty brown Harris Tweed overcoat, also from Meyer and Mortimer. Beautiful, bulletproof, and I’ve yet to be cold in it.
1. My dark brown lambswool shawl collar cardigan from Colhay’s. Heavy and robust but also soft and warm. Casual and chique at the same time. Versatile, comfortable and goodlooking. Just great.
2. My lightweight navy cashmere v neck from Anderson & Sheppard. Extremely light and soft but somehow manages to retain shape, colour and strength for many years. I wouldn’t mind wearing it every single day.
3. An MTM sports jacket made by Orazio Luciano in a vintage deadstock blue herringbone cashmere. This was made though a trunk show at the Armoury in Hong Kong with measurements taken by Pino Luciaon and it was spot on. A bit of a risk with MTM with little room for adjustment so maybe I was lucky but the fit and make are excellent (better than some of my subsequent bespoke commissions from various tailors, although I haven’t ventured into the highest echelons just yet). The vintage cashmere (soft but more robust than most modern cashmeres) combined with the ultralight construction and a modern but not too tight or short cut, one of my favorite things in the world.
4. My coffer madder silk dressing gown from Budd. Totally unnecessary but wrapping yourself in crisp silk with those beautiful deep saturated colours for a morning coffee is a pretty good way to start the day for me!
1- SEH Kelly herringbone Balmacaan
2- LVC 1954 501s
3- All my tailored trousers from Graham Browne. Really in to the cream cav twill right now.
4- Tom Ford mid grey suit in Windsor cut.
I’d like to add RoToTo socks to bullet 1. Bought the grey as well as brown ones from Trunk and they’re a great find. Substantial knit, versatile, and the best thing is that they don’t slip.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
Really liked the first drop of Tailored Garments by The Rake, the double breasted blazers. I got the PoW grey one as well as the navy chalk stripe (on sale early 2021), and both are outstanding. Like vintage clothing but newly made. And then I’ve also been very impressed by what’s coming out of Drake’s: love the linen summer chore jacket and D43 summer jacket.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
These are the items I have been wearing for years and years now. Like my 4hands parka by Woolrich (Mark McNairy and Daiki Suzuki) which I’ve been wearing for a decade now. Or my Hedi Slimane Chelsea boots from his YSL period. Barbour. SNS Herning. Oni denim/Orslow. And I like the 2021 Alexander Kraft stuff, they feel like classics.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
Only ever ordered at Suit Supply. Will probably ‘upgrade’ in the future.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Really impressed with the Drake’s unlined hopsack double breasted navy blazer with brass buttons. Instant classic. Feels so luxurious! Wore it to a fancy work related dinner with some famous people from politics/finance as well as while getting drunk on NYE.
Favorite Item in 2021: Crockett & Jones pebble grain, storm welted Chelsea boots
Favorite Read-Made: That’s tough, but I appreciate a perfect Shetland crewneck in a good color, and Harleys fit me like I was the fit model.
Favorite Custom: A lighter weight Lovat Mill tweed jacket (green with navy windowpane) sport coat that I recently had made.
Favorite luxury: Has to be between by Loro Piana camel hair polo coat and my Attolini wool and mohair dinner suit; both because they are so striking.
My favorite piece bought last year would be my Le Corb raglan sleeve coat from Coherence
Hi and thanks for your always interesting articles. Being a poor overtaxed Swede maybe not what you wanted to read but honesty is probably what you are looking for.
1) Heavy 3 GG, mixed fibers, cable knitted Round Neck sweater from Uniqlo. Price around £50. Bought a “winter white” first and had to go back for a navy as well. Extremely well knitted and fitting is perfect
2) Probably my beige Trench-coat from British manufacturer Leford back in the 70-is. Could not afford original Burberry but Leford was very very good. Went extremely well with brown suede shoes, heavy rubber outsole from Hutton in UK. Style was nicknamed “Playboy “. Those were the days!!!
3) My “Club-blazer” from Sam’s clothing on Nathan Road, TST, Kowloon, Hong Kong. Only bespoke I have ordered in Hong Kong that fits Everything else is lousy stitched and ridiculous fitting!!!
4) Being 6ft 6 there is never any luxury brand that make my size. So maybe a tie from Comme de Garçon???? or a scarf from Agne’s B but that is not really luxury. And Rolex watches don’t count.
all the best and wish you health and prosperity in 2022 and coming year of the Tiger.
1: Dark Green double breasted, three piece suit from Whitcomb and Shaftesbury.
2: 23 years ago, I bought a brown sheepskin flight jacket, I have found nothing since that even gets close to the quality and old school style, it gets better every year.
3: a bespoke made guayabera over-shirt, hand made in Downtown Mexico City, the fabric, texture, fit and flow of the garment makes it feel like a bespoke jacket that you can wear in heat and humidity of the Latin Caribbean without any difficulty.
4: I was gifted a silk and fur “farwa” from Middle Eastern royalty, made of a thick green mulberry silk with a Russia sable fir lining. It is just totally over the top, incredibly soft, comfortable and is like wearing quilt with sleeves, makes you feel great, I wear it around the house when relaxing, the most comfortable “coat” on the planet.
Hi – good idea, very interested in reading the comments. My 2 cent on it :
1. Private White cashmere ribbed crew neck in olive color.
2. ABCL garments Miniera pants, Eclectic pea coat.
3. Am lucky enough to be in standard size so don’t really need more than minor alterations.
4. Dolce & Gabbana 100% cashmere double breasted coat. Not a brand I would buy anything from, but found this coat at a bargain on Yoox and as much as I don’t like the brand, I must admit this coat feels like absolute luxury to me.
Some of these questions are very easy while the others are much more difficult but I’ll give it a go!
1. The Camoshita balmacaan from this season that was preordered through a favorite store of mine. (Not sure I should mention names). It’s incredibly versatile in color/weight and fit which allows me to throw it over a suit or into a more “streetwear” and casual look.
2. As I don’t own any bespoke or even MTM pieces, I think this comes down to favorite pieces. If I was forced to choose I think it would have to be my DB POW suit by ring jacket in their scotch flannel which is somehow soft, smooth and dense at the same time.
3. As the post stated above I sadly do not own any yet.
4. This one was also very difficult as I have some fairly rare pieces both vintage and not. However I think if I had to choose, it would be something but luxurious as well as somewhat rare. That come down to a cashmere crewneck sweater by Kaptain Sunshine, another brand typically associated with streetwear and casual clothing but does everything so damn well. The cashmere is soft and supple with a little hairiness in the best way and the fit is roomy but not baggy. Just perfect.
1. A tie I had been eyeing for a while. Silk, Lanvin, patterned in black, silvery grey and blue.
2. In 1995 I traded a second hand suede jacket for a worn black Levi’s trucker III with a dear friend. He had been gifted the trucker by a neighbour a few years earlier. This trucker is easily the most used garment in my life. I’ve sat on it in parks in different parts of the world, walked long miles in it, part of double and triple denim ensembles sometimes or dressed up with flannels, layered under a trench coat other times.
Seven or eight years ago I was talking denim with a salesman in a Levi’s store, he showed me a code inside the jacket which dates it to 1983.
3. That would be the grey MTM three piece my parents gave me in 1994 when I finished school at 18 before I moved from my home town. I kept it in rotation until 2012. Today I’d like to think I can choose a suit with a longer life, but that one had a good run.
4. The cognac Belstaff panther jacket I gave myself when I turned 40 in 2015. The history, with Lawrence of Arabia in a trialmaster, if that’s true, the rich cognac colour. And I feel like Tom Selleck in High road to China when I wear it. Clothes that make you feel like Tom Selleck might be the last word in luxury.
Carl
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
White / green bengal stripe camp collar summer shirt from Thom Sweeney SS21 – I dress quite simply / conservatively (white, navy, olive, taupe etc) so this is as close to flamboyance as I would probably go. It’s fun but classy and makes me smile.
Your favourite ready-made
It’s not particularly exciting but if I am honest Sunspel classic tshirts and Boglioli polo neck jumpers – I lose track of how many I have bought over the last 10+ years. Simple, sharp. The Boglioli knitwear is excellent quality.
Your favourite bespoke
My first and only bespoke commission, bought last year after having dabbled a little with MTM: A&S DB wool/cashmere navy overcoat. Inspired by PS advice on getting a first bespoke overcoat. So good, so comfortable.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you.
A Vivienne Westwood jacket I bought in the Harrods sale for half price around twenty years ago – it’s sort of a mix of a bomber jacket and a Harrington: a lovely dark grey / anthracite and beige glencheck wool with slanted, oversized, bulky patch pockets and oversized big tube of a ribbed collar. Hard to describe. Unique. Very well made. I don’t wear it often but did the other day when two different shop assistants said they loved it and asked where they could find it. Neither of them believed it was twenty years old. Interesting as it’s definitely a “fashion” item I probably would not go for these days but I’m really happy I did back then.
Fav item of 2021 – not a lot to be honest as didn’t need much but I really enjoy my PS Oxford cloth. The only shirts I wore in 2021 were oxfords.
Fav ready made ever – has to be PS PWVC bridge coat without question. Great style looks amazing and great quality.
Fav bespoke – Thom Sweeney suit for my wedding – could never top that!
Luxury item – thom Sweeney (William locker version) cashmere shawl x2. Just an amazing piece, warm, comfortable – even my wife steals them. Or possibly my Kishorn scarf from Begg and co. I sold all my other scarves because I never need another one. So light, soft and warm.
I need to change my answer for number one !
My greige valstarino from Trunk – i forgot that was an early 2021 purchase and thought it was 2020.
Nice answer on 4 Jesse, thank you
This is such a great idea. Looking forward to the outcome.
This past year I was inspired by your writing to create my own personal wardrobe. I have been fortunate in that I don’t wear suits frequently and was able to save up for things I really loved in bespoke offers. Thank you for you devotion to great style and informative approach that has helped me in my journey.
No problem Phong, and I’m really pleased you’ve found it so helpful
1/. Zip neck charcoal cotton sweatshirt from L’Estrange. Fabric has a real soft feel, the colour and zip neck (decent zip) works really well with Oxford Shirts for work calls. It’s mid weight so not to bulky but enough warmth for sitting working. (Portuguese manufacture)
2/. Levis denim trucker jacket from mid 1990s. Probably, because it’s tough, practical for summer living, great to wear, great to carry stuff. Doesn’t ‘show off’ so great for travelling, Ages well, goes with most casual clothing. I associate it with so many good days.
3/. N/A
4/. Jaeger grey sports jacket 50% silk 50% cashmere. It’s luxury for me because of the material. It has a fantastic feel. Also from the 1990’s, so it’s worn well. Somewhat nostalgic since it’s been nothing but downhill for the brand since then.
A stimulating discussion, thank you.
my purchase this past year is a Jil Sander Uniqlo cashmere sweater.
The best new shape- high saddle shoulder, and a longer body length -different from the Scottish look usually associated with cashmere. The crew neck is lightly ribbed, pleasing fragile. In black and a pleasing indigo-navy, I’m glad I bought two of each.
favourite luxury purchase – perhaps twenty years ago, an indigo fine herringbone soft Japanese cotton denim jacket by Yhoji. Classic button two shape and a slightly longer length, unlined. Slips over Ts or sweaters and somehow always looks good. Very expensive at the time, well worth it!
Custom made piece, an Anderson &Shepherd jacket (thank you Mr Hitchcock) in charcoal Escorial flannel with a feint cream windowpane check.
luxury piece, a beige cashmere shawl from India, large and very useful.Jeremy Irons wears a similar shawl in the new Gucci movie.
Ben Frankel.
Great and fun reading!
1. A doubble breasted light grey flannel suit from Saman Amel (Neapolitan line) – the fit is just
100% perfect – as always!
2. four pairs of Paraboot the Michael design – I have used them for many years and they work with almost everything – especially the Swedish winter!
3. My 12 years old bespoke Budd shirts in oxford – extremely tight over the wrist and long as a night shirts. Still perfect.
4. A twenty years old navy cashmere coat from Barneys, New York. I purchase it on sale with 80% discount – for me at that time, it was very expensive… the quality is superb the level of craftmanship is something you rarley see. And it still going strong.
1. A blue Drake’s cotton over shirt
2. North Sea Clothing shawl neck jumper
3. I don’t own any
4. Edward Green Galway boots. Rosewood, 64 last. The perfect casual footwear, elegant and utilitarian.
1. Zimmerli Navy Sea Island T Shirt
2. Levis 501 jeans
3. Kiton K Model Navy Chalkstripe Suit
4. Loro Piana Vicuña MTM sweater. Had for 20 years, Perfect fit, rare fiber, beautiful natural color. No one else has it and it is very versatile.
Good morning, according to you should a polo shirt be worn tucked or untucked?
The short answer is either, Francesco. There is no right or wrong either way, it’s a matter of style, and there are far fewer conventions here with casual clothing vs smart clothing. T-shirts too, in the same way, can look great tucked or untucked, as I’ve written previously.
The only thing I would also say, is if you’re aiming for a smart look, perhaps wearing the polo with tailored trousers, it’s better tucked in.
Favourite 2021: a Cifonelli RTW navy melange 2-button blazer – super versatile and comfortable, and the cut fits me about as well as MTM
Favourite RTW: either same as above (which may be due to recency bias), or a Loro Piana navy “Traveller” jacket – also very versatile and comfortable and surprisingly warm in cooler weather given how light it is
Favourite bespoke: my first A&S, a navy DB flannel suit
Favourite “luxury”: a navy (seems to be a bit of a theme!) cashmere topcoat from Brioni. Buttery soft though feels a bit delicate (which perhaps adds to the feel of “luxury”).
Hello Simon, a great initiative, and wonderful to see everyone’s answers!
Here’s mine:
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021.
A pair of bespoke cream trousers in a heavy Holland & Sherry cotton twill. I’ve shied away from cream for so long, but finally succumbed, and I’m glad I did. It’s built on my longstanding bespoke pattern, so the fit is perfect; the cloth is a little heavier than I usually order (13 oz, if memory serves?) so they drape wonderfully, but still wear cool, even in the humid Sydney summer; and I didn’t realise how versatile they’d be – as you’ve pointed out many times, they go with absolutely everything and I can’t stop wearing them!
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever.
Various Crockett & Jones shoes. Finding a RTW Northampton last that fits as comfortably as a trainer is (in my world) like locating the Holy Grail; C&J is that maker for me.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever.
A bespoke navy Fresco blazer, unlined with dark brown horn buttons. I’ve had this garment for 10 years, and still wear it at least once a week – even during COVID lockdown I would throw it on to venture out for the grocery shopping. It’s worn in over that time to now feel like and look like a cardigan, and to paraphrase Bruce Boyer, in another 10 years it should look perfect! I even managed to get a pair of trousers and a waistcoat made from the same piece number after the fact, to complete the suit.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
More bespoke, this time my shawl lapel dinner suit in black Holland & Sherry Crispaire cloth. Luxurious because because I get to wear it so rarely (maybe once or twice a year if I’m lucky), and it’s such a joy when I put it on and feel (and look, if I do say so myself) like the best dressed man in the room.
1) Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
The PS rugby. Easy to dress up a casual outfit, comfortable, warm and elegant whilst being understated.
2) Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
A difficult choice, but I’ll go for a winter favourite, my Private White VC Frobisher parka. An amazing and unique garment. It has a nice slimmer fit yet it’s very well insulated. It uses wool for insulation rather than the typical down. This means that the insulation is more even (down tends to move around) and it’s also more breathable and better at regulating temperature. I’ve used it from 5C to -22C without any issues. It’s incredibly versatile in winter. It’s nice to see that PVVC has remade it this year given how nice of a Parka it is (I bought mine in the first run a few years back).
3) Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
A black SB peak velvet jacket. It can be used as part of a black-tie outfit or dress up a pair of flannel trousers. I’ve gotten a surprising amount of use out of it and it’s often complimented.
4) Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
A pair of Crockett & Jones Cheviott 2 brogues in burgundy cordovan I bought in the 2016 sales. They feel luxurious primarily because of the cordovan, which has acquired a beautiful patina over the years. It’s also a discontinued model making them more rare and unusual. They were also my first pair of C&Js (a step up from Loake) so the feeling of acquiring a truly luxurious pair of shoes that I felt back then has endured.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021:
OCBD shirt of recycled Albini cotton from Poszetka (Poland). Beautiful collar roll and beautiful cloth.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
Long Mackintosh trench coat in olive green with a rabbit lining.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
My Pal Zileri wedding suit. I still wear it couple times a year and find it an amazing cut, style and cloth.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
My IWC Aquatimer. A present from my wife before we started our family and my first proper watch. I love it and still get compliments whenever I put it on.
1. Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
Viyella cream tattersaw shirt from J Press is the favourite. The wool/cotton mix of the Viyella gave a little added warmth, the button down let me wear a tie if I wanted, it is very informal and has a retro feel I like and a ‘Sunday lunch in the country’ vibe I like. It is a frank, useful, comfortable piece of clothing that can be (only slightly) dressed up.
2. Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
It has to be a Blue Blue Japan sashiko work coat from NMWA. It has contrasting cuff and interior at the bottoms and start of the collar which make it look a little smarter and more urbane than a generic work coat. It is also incredibly well made.
3. Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
Some shirts I had made at zum Jockey Club in Vienna a few years ago when we were there for a three week stay. The material and workmanship are perfect, each time I wear them I am reminded of a nice vacation, and they are also cut slightly differently than anything else I own in a way I cannot determine that is flattering.
4. Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Tough one. I think it is a Comme de Garcons Escorial wool scarf. It is truly luxurious. For a scarf, it was way too expensive to my mind, which guaranteed I would not see many others on the street. That experience is nice and somewhat luxurious. Most to the point, I have never regretted buying it, in fact feel lucky to have found it every time I wear it. It is very comfortable, light, drapes nicely because the wool is so beautiful, is incredibly warm. It looks very good, but only if you notice it. It has a deeply anonymous look. It is a bit like a Quaker lining the black cloth coat with fur. Surely a secret luxury is a little more luxurious than an obvious one.
Such a difficult question Simon. Like many others here, I’m going to cheat a little bit. My answers:
That coat sounds lovely, and nice to have the recommendation on the boxers compared to the Zimmerli
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
A bespoke double breasted purple with four pot pockets.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
A vintage blue ‘Pea Coat’.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
An ‘Ulster’ overcoat.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
An old Casentino coat, over 70 years old but practically never worn before.
Hi Simon
On the subject of cashmere jumpers I have has trouble for several years finding a company which makes products with the quality I’ve had in the older extinct brands I’ve owned such as Pringle and Ballantyne.
Jumpers 30 or even 40 years old made by Pringle and Ballantyne and so on which I still wear were always pill-free. They are still immaculate.
Then the best I can find now are William Lockie but even they pill a bit.
There remain companies like Begg and Lockie but there always seems to be a problem – I’m a 38 and used to get all my Lockie stuff from a place called Heather Wallace, which I understand was run by them.
They stocked 38 but Lockie doesn’t now as far as I can tell. Begg does but there’s no V necks. Always a problem.
I am reconsidering V necks after reading your piece about Rubato. The quality and design look gorgeous. Are they a possibility?
I have limited experience with Italian cashmere. I’m not interested in designer stuff like Cucinelli but wondered if there is any company which might suit my requirements that you could recommend.
Made to measure sounds ideal but I have no idea of the ‘real’ quality of these as well as their durability.
Do you have any suggestions please?
Regards
Rob Grant
Hi Rob,
Thanks for your comment.
The knitwear you’re referring to was often knitted differently – with what they called a ‘bare finish’ on it that with a wash or did not pill. That knitwear is not really made any more because it was expensive, being very dense, and not easy to sell, because it didn’t feel soft at first.
On pilling generally, it’s worth reading our article here. Often modern knits need more delicate looking after, but if they are looked after well, won’t necessarily pill.
Rubato make a great V-neck, but it’s not cashmere mostly, so I would only wear them with a shirt underneath. And the proportions are a little unusual – shorter and wider – which you may or may not like.
Italian cashmere is unlikely to be what you want I’m afraid. It is nearly always knitted more loosely than even the modern Scottish production.
I hope that’s helpful in some way
Best
Simon
Have you had a chance to review the “new” Ballantyne? I commented above on the old Ballantyne sweater I have, and still love. I’ve seen them sold online in Ballantyne[.]it and apparently under new ownership – the price is £600+ but was wondering if they manufacture using the old technique and quality still?
I haven’t had a chance to try it I’m afraid. I thought they had broken up the old machines, but I hope I’m wrong
1. A curdoroy button down shirt from 100hands
2. A green double breasted jacket from sartoria ripense
3. A blue double breasted cifonelli blazer
1. Steven Hitchcock grey wool 2-piece suit
2. My M-65 jacket from The Real McCoys
3. My Michael Browne suit 4-ply single breasted suit (more than anything based on the process and relationship)
4. Chapal USAAF jacket in wool and brown leather
An interesting idea, and somewhat of a challenge for me to categorize. One item could very well fit in all the categories for me, but none the less here they are:
Wonderfully detailed and reasoned. Just what I was hoping for – thanks David
Thank you Simon. It was a bit of a challenge to think about clothing across a few different fields. I would only add that everyone could benefit from a sweater in the same color as their pet, should they have one.
-DL
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021:
Definitely my C&J black calf Boston loafers.
They are incredibly comfortable, once worn in I preferred them to many of my sneakers due to the feeling of structure they gave my foot.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever:
An old double breasted 4×2 Brioni blazer with gold buttons I received from my grandfather.
The cut embodies a bygone elegance that I haven’t seen replicated in many of today’s clothes. The coat is roomy, comfortable yet gives an incredibly masculine shape.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever:
A SuitSupply single breasted dark navy suit in VBC S120s. It was my first MTM experience and my first proper suit for that matter. The coat is a bit too short and it doesn’t have the roomy, elegant fit of my vintage coats but the trousers are immaculate and i love the fabric.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.):
Probably a very old Loro Piana cashmere dressing gown, also passed on to me by my grandfather. The camel coloured cashmere is incredibly soft yet sturdy, I can’t imagine anything more comfortable to lounge around in at home.
It has hand rolled edges throughout and the excess of a pure cashmere dressing gown is the highest form of luxury I currently own.
Runner up to the luxury category would be a vintage, double breasted cashmere overcoat from Aquascutum. It is very long, heavy and creates an incredible silhouette. I don’t wear it often but when I do, I feel invincible. Italian/soft tailoring can never create this sense of drama.
Good idea, Simon!
1) Inis Meain sweater in 100% baby alpaca.
2) Buzz Ricksons Pea coat- excellent, strong quality. Good fits and wear.
3) N/A or If it’s possible, a 6-ply Bosie sweater that I ordered in the size and color I wanted and took two weeks to make.
4) Dachstein Alpine sweater, because it is a rare, hard wearing, very heavy and warm wool sweater.
Cheers
1. A pile of Blackhorse lane denim trousers. I have worn them way too often since I got them and I absolutely love them. The fit is absolutely perfect and the material is absolutely great.
2. Brioni chocolate suede bomber jacket. Very light, a casual/urban look made from some of the softest leather I have ever touched. As I live in a very casual city, a fantastic item to own.
3. Haven’t had enough to judge
4. A pair of trickers kudu leather boots. Real kudu leather is such an incredible thing. There are scratches in the leather from the beginning, because this animal is in the bushes a lot and gets scratched by thorns. The look of the leather isn’t showy, but always stands out a little.
Favourite item bought last year will be my 100 Hands shirt – Deep Structured Indigo. As my first ever shirt purchase at this price level, it was bought with some trepidation, but the sheer quality of the piece banished any ongoing guilty concerns on cost. A close second are some simple t-shirts from Clutch Café –Both the Allevol Heavy Duty and Warehouse & Co. have a great feel and are perfect for nine months of the year.
Favourite clothing ever? Such a hard call and sure this choice would change regularly much like a best album or song but, today the vote goes to a Harris Tweed overcoat from Ede & Ravenscroft that has stood the test of time, a lovely colour mix and gets worn a lot. A wonderful essential.
Not had much call for Bespoke/MTM outside of a couple of suits that don’t get much use in these casual times, especially since retirement. I’m tempted to go for the Levi’s Lot 1 Made to Order jeans that I’m delighted with but still breaking in – so will go with a DB jacket from Jake at Anglo-Italian as I simply love the cloth.
The 100 Hands shirt is a contender for the luxury item but it is too new and the same goes for a beautiful cardigan from Colhay’s that’s made with a quality wool and achieves the near impossible of being flattering on me. My choice is an old pair of Edward Green shoes – the leather is ‘buttery’ soft and whispers quality. I own some nice shoes but never a pair as comfortable and beautifully made. Putting them on always manages to raise my mood.
Do you want feedback on the 22 awards by email or through this thread?
Through this thread please Terence
My entry would be either of the 2 pairs of Cobbler Union Shoes that I purchased this year (Henry loafers in Brown Grain, and Richard oxfords in Museum Brown). These are my first real quality shoes, and they are fantastic!
Favourite Item Of Clothing Bought in 2021
Undoubtedly my Deck Jacket from The Workers Club. Made in a ripstop fabric with Corozo buttons it works well as a casual piece over a T shirt or, smart casual over a polo or button down oxford. As with many pieces form this great brand, it is manufactured to the highest quality by Mackintosh and, as it is shower proof, great for the somewhat unpredictable weather of the UK spring, summer and autumn.
Favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
My Vintage Pea Coat bought from The Common Ilk in Tyneside. This relatively new Vintage shop always comes up with great items and, just after they opened, I found this 1946 vintage, USN Pea Coat in Kersey wool complete with the original labels and buttons. The weight alone means that it not only keeps me warm in the winter it gives you a real work out whilst wearing it. Whether warn with a submariner and jeans or Chinos for casual or dressed up with a scarf at the neck and tailored trousers it never lets me down.
Favourite Bespoke (custom, MTM) Ever
A wonderful, light brown check Covert Coat made for me by Richard Grimes of Ipswich. A first class tailor he made me exactly what I wanted and then, a year later, when I had lost 15kg in weight, had the patience to take it all apart and remodel to fit my again. Richard supplied the cloth and combined it with the top quality Cupro lining I sourced personally from the fantastic Italian Mill, Gianni Crespi and the beautiful horn buttons I sourced from the long standing Bergamasc horn specialist, Fenili. Just wearing this coat can lift me form even the lowest of moods.
Favourite Piece Of ‘Luxury’ Clothing, And Why It Feels Luxurious To Me.
Any pair of my William Cheaney shoes but, in particular, my pair of Pitlochry Brogues. Made to Cheaney’s usual high standard to me these feel luxurious as, suffering as I do from Rheumatoid Arthritis, comfortable, supportive shoes are a must. Once wearing these I know my feet can deal with what ever is thrown at them, be it lots of walking or just generally standing for hours on end. The added fact that I know that, by using the in house repair and refurbishment service, these shoes will probably last my lifetime is a luxury in itself.
Regards
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021:
Vintage Ralph Lauren linen twill wide leg trousers
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
Unstructured Hackett Navy basketweave Blazer found in a charity shop for £6 and with an almost bespoke fit
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever:
Can’t afford to commission but found a Cifonelli camel coat in a sample sale which once heavily altered is close enough for me
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Vintage Ralph Lauren Very Heavy Aran knit rollback jumper in heather grey, but in 100% cashmere, found at about 2% of retail price. Extremely versatile and warm, will last forever
1.Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
Michael Browne Stealth Bomber Jacket. I’ve looked for a bespoke bomber for a long time & Michael does a great job of marrying bespoke make with design / solid style, which seems to be quite rare in bespoke. It’s also quite an unusual piece given it’s design & fabric, which is a black wool crepe.
2.Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
Likely an unpopular answer for Permanent Style, but it probably has to be an old Tom Ford neutral (beige) Cashmere Aran sweater. It’s lasted forever, goes with everything, feels weighty & fits really well. They nailed the design too, with the right thickness of ribbing on the cuffs & body.
3.Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
Chittleborough & Morgan Bridge Coat. How it fits when unfastened, hugging the back & retaining lines through the body. How the collar stands when ‘popped’. The standard of finishing (The execution on the lining, interior pockets, the angular lines through the collar edges & lapels). Along with the fact that the experience with Joe (& Francis at the time) was absolutely incredible.
4.Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
I don’t know if accessories should make it in to these answers, but I’ll put two because they’re different! For me, it’d either be my Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle date or Stefano Bember bespoke chukkas. The VC because it’s my only watch & took a while to save up for which makes it feel special. Everything on the dial & caseback is just executed very precisely. Then you have the materials (rose gold, alligator strap).
The shoes because they’re the most worn & best fitting I have. The toeshape also makes them feel special, how they curve down towards the sole in a way that isn’t possible with RTW.
Both items, however, nail it on presentation & packaging. It feels special just to open the boxes & get the items out.
Sorry, that ended up being a longer answer than intended! Really glad to see Joe & C&M have made it on to another’s list here in the comments.
Great idea to do this a little bit differently this year Simon. So, here I go:
A bit late and probably not quite what you’re looking for as I’m female, do most of my shopping secondhand and probably lean more ‘fashion’ than most readers here but here goes:
1. Very heavy /winter-proof deepest black jeans that just fit perfectly from Blackhorse Lane.
2. Nothing grand – but I find that RTW boots by RM Williams are the most comfortable things that go on feet, and more comfortable – and so much cheaper – than any bespoke shoes I have.
3. I have asked John Pearse to make me three denim suits with different but old fashioned cuts. My favourite is a double breasted heavy denim that is the sort of thing Jacob Rees Mogg would wear if he wore denim.
4. Easy – a flying jacket from Cromford that I asked them to make to my preference – longer than it ‘should’ be and in a lighter brown hide. And with pockets! Authentic flying jacket it isn’t because no true flying jacket had them – no self respecting pilot went into battle with a handkerchief in his pocket or a wallet or a face mask…
Looks like I’ll be repeating a lot of what of others have said but here we go:
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
2 things:
Permanent Style Polo-wonderfully soft and a beautiful collar. Mine seems to have shrunk after washing but more my fault than anything. Will order another when they come back.
Wool Linen trousers-cloth by Dormeuil and made by Kamakura. Amazingly light and cooler than pure linen or cotton linen mix. Might get a jacket in the summer.
These two were staples this summer when meeting were held and I needed to be smart but not overly so.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
2 things again:
Denim shirt from Ralph Lauren. Bought it when I was 17 and wore it till it frayed to death 4-5 years later.
Wool duffle coat from Paul Smith. Got called Paddington Bear at uni but it was warm, shed water and looked great with jeans or a suit. Shame it…erm… shrunk.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
2 things:
Both sweaters. One aran knitted by mum and the other blue (like aran but closer to a fisherman’s sweater) knitted by my wife.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
Omega Seamaster-surprise present from my wife after getting a new job. Still gets compliments even after 20 years. Funnily enough, her birthday soon followed as did a request for a matching ladies model. Who’d thought that could have happened?
Thank you Simon and everyone else. You’ve given me some more ideas for later purchases.
I believe I’m amongst the youngest readers so I have to focus on affordable pieces of clothing. I also try to dress in a simple, clean manner.
Stoffa Raglan coat
Innis Mean jumper
I had a pair of shoes made when I was an undergraduate (good day at the races) and still use them seven years into retirement
Shops that give excellent service. Mes Chausette Rouge are wonderful for the way that they make a mundane purchase so pleasurable.
1. Favourite item of clothing bought in 2021: Chukka boots 055 from Zonkey Boot. They fit, have an anatomical last and hopefully will have a long life.
2. Favourite RTW ever: Memory isn’t that good! Armani Exchange J65 jeans. Great fit on me, they’ve aged really well and feel like a second skin.
3. MTM, bespoke etc.: No bespoke, a few MTM in my life. Favourite is shearling bomber from Cromford Leather in dark blue, with black interior/furry neck. Totally madly indulgent but brings a smile whenever worn
4. Most “luxury”: A wool peacoat, first ever MTM item. Not from a tailor and would probably be criticised for style etc., but after much searching I found a factory in East London who made for well known upper end High Street stores. They were willing to alter one of their own designs to fit me. That’s why it’s “luxury”…after years of having RTW that never quite fitted, wonderful to have something that does.
1. Habsburg Johan Karl jacket
2. Loro Piana Roadster navy cashmere jacket
3. Blazers & suits from Tom Brown tailors in Berkshire
4. William & Son loden field coat & Zapf landgraf hat
1) One of my most frivolous and superfluous purchases of 2021 is a pair of merino wool knitted trainers from Loro Piana in navy and brown. They might be completely unnecessary but they look great and are ridiculously comfortable. Sadly with the English weather I don’t wear them as much as I would like.
2) A few years back I bought a scarf box from Kuna, with scarves made from Llama and Alpaca. They are incredibly soft and light, yet the warmest scarves I’ve ever tried.
3) My MTM cashmere jumpers from 40 Colori. My body shape is pretty standard, but those small fit details (longer body, narrower wrists) make a difference. I also like to choose the yarn colour (love the burnt orange one). During winter I wear these at least half of the week.
4) My bespoke Cashmerello (cashmere/cotton blend) navy shirt from Turnbull and Asser. I never liked shirt because they felt uncomfortable, particularly around the shoulders and elbow, but the bespoke fit and softness of cashmerello turned me into a fan. The fabric looks and feels great to the skin, and wears a bit warmer than cotton. My choice for slightly smarter Zoom meetings.
1. A double-breasted dark navy overcoat – made in a longer length with Holland and Sherry wool-cashmere blend. Very classic, flattering but functional during winter. Only got to wear it a handful of times due to COVID-19 lockdowns and an unseasonably warmer-than-usual winter, but gave such pleasure each time I wore it.
2. Drake’s button-down oxford shirts – I have multiple, in ice-blue, blue-white pinstripe and navy. They’re so soft and comfortable. One of my go-to selections for year-round wear. Always looks elegant without necessarily being stuffy, be it with jeans, chinos, dress trousers, or even shorts in the summer
3. Probably a navy blue double-breasted jacket made up in Fresco mockleno. Not as versatile as my single-breasted navy jackets, but very comfortable, wearable even in the tropical summer and very much a statement piece.
4. A field jacket, made by Stòffa, in olive suede. It’s a fairly casual cut, but the weight and lustre of the suede is such that, combined with the high level of make, really makes one feel elevated when wearing it.
Hello,
1) I love my Crockett and Jones « No Time to Die » boots.
2) Étro green shearling leather coat
3) A houndstooth sport coat, made here in Los Angeles.
4) Either the Rifugio tan suede or Valstar tweed coats I bought this year.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
N Peal ribbed cashmere hoodie. Great casual luxury.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
Edward Green Galway boot in rosewood country calf. Although I have other quality ready to wear shoes and boots I keep coming back to Edward Green for both boots and shoes. (I can’t justify bespoke shoes, as I have great fit with EG and I love their quality and style). These are just so durable and get even better looking the more you wear and polish them. Worn all the time, with jeans, along with a black pair of Kentmere boots.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
Edward Sexton bespoke navy 3 piece suit. No contest. I have suits from Huntsman and G&H too, but the Edward Sexton makes you look and feel great and gets compliments every time I wear it. It’s a “going out” suit, not a business suit.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, material
Edward Sexton bespoke navy greatcoat. Like Simon’s but shorter for everyday practicality. At the other end of the price scale, Begg scarves.
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021:
Midnight blue pleated tuxedo shirt with convertible cuffs from Thom Sweeney.
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever:
Black wool belted trench coat with epaulets and quilted lining from Costume National in 2007. Sadly, this label is no longer in business.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever:
My first MTM suit from Thom Sweeney. A mid-charcoal three-piece suit in high twist wool. Prior to working from home due to the pandemic, this suit was worn almost every week.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.):
A cream linen 2-piece suit in 12 oz Irish linen from Cacciopoli made by Thom Sweeney MTM. I ordered it for my niece’s wedding in Santorini just a few months before the COVID-19 outbreak. Rather than the fit and material, which is superb, this suit is important to me as a reminder of how beautiful life once was prior to COVD.
1. Stenströms collared cardigan – in the less formal office, it can go as a slack jacket and the soft knit collar gives a nice flow with the stiff shirt collar. Still allowing me to wear proper trousers
2. A hand knitted faroe island sweater. I usually buy a piece of proper regional clothing when traveling, and many years ago I bought a hand knitted traditional sweater from a group of elderly women who just loved to knit. Wonderful material and craftsmanship
3. Hard spun mid / light grey woolen trousers from suit supply. More than anything, I find trouser fit to be the centerpiece of dressing well. A jacket goes off. Shirts can be roomy, but trousers are always visible. Flannel never lasts, so I have turned to hard spun wool with more color in the yarn. Goes with anything
4. Recycled Burberry cotton coat – goes well with similar sand colored trousers. The lining and sleeves have been repaired, but it still has a certain feeling too it. There is plenty of room for it to flair in the wind and historical references to make it meaningful
1, 3, and 4, all the same answer – Levi’s Lot1, cut by Lizzie. I’ve had beautiful bespoke suits, jackets and shirts made – many brilliant, several disasters. But those Levis have all be brilliant; perfect fit, perfect finish, perfect as they age – which they do brilliantly.
In fact they should really be joint winner in category 1 with a formal dress shirt from Frank Foster – nobody does better cocktail cuffs!
Hi Simon,
Personally I have one piece of clothing to talk about that fits the first and fourth categories. It is a vintage piece and probably the most luxurious piece of clothing I have ever handled. It is a vintage bespoke Henri Urban of Paris camel color cashmere overcoat. It is a 6×2 double breasted coat that features horn buttons, flap pockets, a half belt, peak lapels, two milanese buttonholes, a long single vent in the back with a hidden button closure that stops at the belt and continues as ab back vent until ending with a beautifuly hand stitched arrowhead. The inside of the coat is lined in a heavy camel silk into which are cut two inside pockets at a 45 degree angle, this was typical for most French tailors in the 80´s (mostly the ones who worked under Joseph Camps). And of course, being French made, the coat features an absurd amount of handwork, including top stitching on every seam and every edge of the fabric. Even the lining is attached by hand with two different stitches (invisibly and top stitched). And of course, the beautiful label that is hand embroidered with the name “Henri Urban Paris”. I was very fortunate to acquire such a beautiful piece of clothing from such a legendary tailor. It is said that he was the most expensive tailor during his time and the most demanding!
1. Stevenson overall thermal. That was a fantastic recommendation.
2. Roy Denim jeans. Will go down as legendary and I bet will have some mystique now that he’s done.
3. Thomas Mahon – two piece in Fresco, that blue 0520. Cut perfectly and it’s my go to suit. He made me a car coat too that I love but not used as much since I’m in the Bay Area.
4. George Cleverley red Russian whole cuts. I have them in the in the Churchill also. My flex shoes. Waiting for someone to notice them though. As long as I know it’s fine.
1. Drake’s Blue Cotton Suit (found for very deep discount in a suburban mall in Canada).
2. APC Petit Standard from 2005 – 2015
3. White and university striped oxfords I “commissioned” in 2014 that I still wear weekly.
4. Tie: Alden unlined suede loafers and the Armoury Shawl Collar Sweater (brown) – saved for a long time to get both and they’re well worn.
Obviously, the items themselves don’t really matter as much as the memories I had either trying to save for them or the fact that I wear them so often they’ve become a second skin. Boring, simple, and worn-out, I still feel my best when I’m in loafers, slim denim, an oxford and a cotton jacket or a cardigan. It’s wet in Vancouver and I have family in Veilance corporate so there’s a lot of fancy Goretex outerwear in the closet.
Hello Simon, I would like to contribute to your questions:
1. A Michael-Ross-Knitwear Shetland Wool Sweater. The colour is called Surf and it really reminds me of a trip to the Isle of Skye and the sea there. I just like the wool, the knitting and the handicraft.
2. A pair of Tricker‘s Stow. Well made country boots and well used now.
3. A Kathryn Sargent bespoke suit. I longed for a bespoke suit from Savile Row and found her out after she started her business in 2012. It was in Sackville Street in 2013. And the suit is still much in use during the colder months. Such a great experience, beautifully crafted, a real power suit in approx. 14oz Airforce Blue Flannel with Chalk Stripes.
4. I bought a pair of brown Field Boots MTM at Schnieder‘s Boots in London because I wasn‘t able to buy the ‚right‘ boot regarding fitting and quality here in Germany. This pair of boots served me well for more than 20 years on horseback. At that time it was and I think it still will be regarded as a real luxury having boots made in England without owning a horse.
Warm regards
Daniel
Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
PS – Bridge Coat. Hands down and slamming on the ground – all questions answered!
Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
Technically footwear, but my brown chelsea boots from J Fitzpatrick. Even though they get a bit tight if I wear thick socks (I usually wear thin socks anyway), they have proven one of my most useful pair of shoes (also, just have sentimental value because I proposed in them).
Otherwise, the piece of clothing I’d choose, probably say my Edward Sexton turtleneck. It’s just merino wool, but it’s so smooth and soft. The fit is also great, not quite as slim as Colhay’s.
Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
Well based on the last fitting I had with Divij from Divij bespoke I’d say my suit from him, but it the final suit isn’t arriving until this week. So, instead I’ll cheat some more and say either my shirts from Divij Bespoke (MTM), or my Black Linen Overshirt from Camiseria Burgos.
Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
If I could repeat I’d say the PS Bridge Coat because I absolutely love the fit. I find most jackets to be a bit loose, which is nice because they can fit over Suits and Jackets, but it makes them hard to wear on their own. The PS Bridge Coat on the other hand has a sort of natural stretch (bot the lining and coat) such that it fits great over jackets, but even just with a t-shirt it is an absolutely flattering silhouette. Also, the wool/cashmere mix feels both smooth and luxurious while feeling sturdy and robust.
However, to avoid repeating myself, I’d say any sock I order from Mes Chaussettes Rouges. Just the thinnest, smoothest, most comfortable socks – AND their hand written notes get me, every damn time.
*Special Note to my perfumes – Oud for Greatness by Inition (which makes me feel like an opulent peacock in the best and most subtle way); Must Ravageur by Frederic Malle (which makes me feel like a victorian vampire); Layton Exclusif by Parfums de Marly (which is the best of both worlds); and Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle (which just makes me feel like I’m ready for anything)
Favourite item 2021: A dark brown Valstarino at an insane discount. It hasn’t seen many wears as I bought it late summer.
Favourite item: My five year old C&J Coniston Boots. These are my go-to boots as a wedding photographer. They can take a beating and still look awesome!
Favourite MTM: My Harris Tweed dark brown overcoat, which somewhat resembles your Liverano Ulster. It works with everything. From suits to denim.
Favourite luxury item: Possibly a weird one. A half zip cream ribbed sweater. Made from a wool cashmere blend. Because of the ribbed it is really fitted and feels like a sock to put on. I dont wear it often because, well a half zip isn’t that stylish
Favourite item 2021: Soundman Strand rollneck sweater in black waffle-knit cotton. Bought in Clutch Cafe. The cotton is thick yet cooler than wool. I’m a late convert to rollnecks but they are a perfect bridge between smart and casual.
Favourite ever item: Bison Bushcraft Guide shirt. This is a popover shirt in thick wool made to order in the UK. Unlike many workwear brands this is the real deal: made for people working outdoors, practical and virtually indestructible. It works surprisingly well with chinos and an oxford shirt.
https://bisonbushcraft.co.uk/collections/boots-clothing-and-outwear/products/guide-wool-shirt
Favourite MTM/bespoke: I have two bespoke suits but both date from early in my “style journey” and neither is stylish enough to comment on.
Favourite luxury item: Brycelands Sawtooth Westerner. I’ve never had anything in raw denim before and wearing it in has felt like building a relationship. It feels wonderfully thick and still stiff enough that I’m aware of wearing it, in a not unpleasant way. It feels well made and flattering, striking yet blends in with other items in my wardrobe.
1. A bespoke jacket made by Gotrich&Co in Stockholm, in Loro Piana sopra visso tweed. Brown and black houndstooth, with a subtle dark navy windowpane. I loved the fabric from the first time I saw it, but I held off for a long time because I didn’t really need ANOTHER brown sport coat (or another tweed…) Eventually I decided to go for it, and it turned out I got the last of the fabric LP had in stock. Jacket is everything I wanted, and it’s ended up sidelining most of my other jackets because I enjoy it so much.
2. The PS donegal raglan coat. There’s so much right with this coat I won’t even get started (even though I still wish it had a belt!) I’ve been stopped on the street by people giving me compliments on it (twice), though I once had a possibly intoxicated fellow pick a fight with me in broad daylight cause he thought I looked “upper class” while wearing it.
3. See the bespoke jacket above.
4. A Blancpain Leman 100 hours Ultra Thin wristwatch. I wanted a smaller, more subtle take on the “adventurers watch”, and nothing as obvious as a Rolex Explorer. At 38mm the Blancpain is perfect; it doesn’t attract attention but it’s made for some fun conversations with fellow watch enthusiasts. Got it pre-owned, bit worn, lume is totally spent and it badly need a service. I’ve been putting it off because I don’t want to part with it for that long!
Having a jacket in the PS Joshua Ellis plaid made, but as it didn’t arrive before 2021 ended, I’m hoping it will end up on my 2022 list.
Great idea.
1. Favourite item in 2021. Probably has to be my Blackhorse Lane E5 Turkish organic jeans. Tough and comfortable with a great cut, not baggy at all but not skinny, they perfectly fit my evening and weekend lifestyle as a 37yr old professional with two young kids. I chose the organic because the blue is lighter than the regular selvedge. I would describe it as a dark mid blue at the moment (haven’t been washed yet, four months in).
Honourable mentions to: PWVC orange Harrington jacket. Great fit, unusual colour, makes me feel like having an afternoon playing pool in the pub.
Drakes navy shawl collar cardigan. So comfortable, it was close to taking the top spot. Marked down for the baggy armhole fit that means it is best worn over another sweater rather than just a T-shirt or shirt.
2. All-time favourite RTW – could well be the E5 jeans, but in the interest of variety I’ll go for the PS selvedge chambray shirt. Light and comfortable and has a fantastic colour. Of course the collar roll is very handsome too.
3. Favourite made to measure – a dark brown herringbone sports jacket made by my local tailor. Great for work and can be paired well with dark slim denim.
4. Favourite luxury – let’s go with the Crockett and Jones dark brown suede loafers. Great material, immensely comfortable again.
My favourite piece of clothing from last year is a pair of CHURCH’s Grafton Crup shoes in cordovan leather, colour burgundy, beautifully comfortable and stunning in appearance. People always ask me about them.
Favourite ready-made? A cashmere, mink coat from Austram of Vienna, wonderful to wear and light for use when travelling.
Best bespoke: West Indian Sea Island Cotton pyjamas made to measure by New and Lingwood. Like being rubbed in oil. Not cheap but worth it.
Sheer luxury: a silk dressing gown by Sulka of Bond Street. I have never seen silk as high quality as this before or since.
—Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021
A pair of pinnacle cords from Mister Freedom this pair of cords may be more expensive than all of the other corduroy trousers I own combined. They fit perfectly, though, and have an air of combined heritage and dressiness that makes them just as easy to wear with a flannel as with an OCBD and sport coat. The weight is also perfect. I can wear them comfortably from October to March (save the two or three coldest weeks of the year).
—Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever
I have (too) many pairs of shoes and many more expensive than my Allen Edmonds mid-brown suede Thayers. I bought this pair in 1998 as a factory second in Port Washington (before the company was equity groupitized). They’ve seen four soles, countless downpours, and even the odd mishap when I was younger, but they keep on ticking. They’re to show their age, and I wear them less now, but I still love them.
—Your favourite bespoke (custom, MTM) ever
My second suit from Field Custom Tailors, navy with burgundy pinstripes. As long as I don’t gain too much weight, it’s a piece of armor.
—Your favourite piece of ‘luxury’ clothing, and why it feels luxurious to you. (Not price, but fit, rarity, make, materials.)
The wool in my Chamula knitted cardigan is divine. No idea where the company got it from, but it’s the single most comfortable wool sweater I’ve ever owned.
Thanks Jon.
On the Chamula, it may be because the piece is hand knitted, rather than the wool. Does it say it is?
Well this is far too late. But I do have two thoughts for my best purchases ever:
Quite late to this game, but since I keep records of all my purchases, I will answer.