Bespoke watch straps: Atelier du Bracelet Parisien (ABP) in Paris
I have rather small wrists, to the extent that most watch straps are far too large for me. It’s usually OK with metal straps where links can be removed, but standard leather straps end up with a very long tail.
I’ve had bespoke straps consistently made at Jean Rousseau in London as a result, and generally I’ve been pleased with the service. It’s not cheap - usually around £350 for crocodile - but still cheaper than getting one from the watchmaker itself.
My last strap, however, Jean Rousseau made a small error on. The holes on the strap were placed slightly wrongly, and as a result the whole of the point doesn’t protrude through the keeper on larger settings. This didn’t occur to me until I tried to use those settings, and by that point it was too late to change them.
I therefore considered an alternative, and a few readers had suggested the shop Atelier du Bracelet Parisien (usually abbreviated to ABP) in Paris. The website was a little offputting to be honest, but as we were going to Paris anyway I decided to have a look.
The shop itself is actually rather impressive. It’s two shops - or rather a shop and a workshop - next to each other on the Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, near to Vendôme.
The retail shop has rather the same feeling as the website - perhaps a little cheap, certainly not luxe. There are iPhone covers, key fobs and other leather accessories, often in gaudy colours.
But that shouldn’t put you off. The range of leathers, in particular alligator, is huge, and they’re all being made in the workshop next door. At the back of the shop there are several big boxes of skins organised by colour and you can easily get lost sorting through the various different shades of blue, navy and teal.
I had in mind to get a blue or a green as an alternative to the tan strap I have for my Cartier Tank (below). So I spent a good half hour looking through all the options, often making use of ABP’s strap template to see more specifically what that colour would look like when cut out.
In the end I decided to go for green, as it would be more casual - and I don’t have that many casual options. Above you can see me with three green options to pick from, standing outside the shop this time in order to try to separate the different shades.
The one on the right is a dark, deep green; the one on the left a brighter, grassy colour; and the one in the middle more a classic British racing green. The fact I made that automobile connection with the middle colour is probably what swung it for me, but it also seemed like quite a safe choice.
You can often pick which part of the skin you want - bigger, squarer scales down the belly being more expensive, smaller, rounder ones at the side being cheaper - before then also deciding:
- the style of stitching
- the colour of stitching
- the material of the backing
- the colour of the backing
- the colour of the inking (on the sides)
- a flat or domed shape
Pictured below are the stitching options, but while I have seen and liked the middle one (only stitched at the ends, glued along the length) I’ve had enough of these made now to know that I prefer the most classic, subtle options, certainly on a dress watch like this.
Having laid out the templates exactly where I wanted them on the skin, I was then allowed to cut them out myself with a big iron press, which was fun. The rest of the making process was going to take a few days, so in the meantime we went next door to see the work.
It was very nicely done, with all the lack of pretension that often attaches to this kind of craft. Paint-splattered table tops, piles of thread waiting to be stitched, chatter bouncing around the room.
We spent a few minutes talking to the lady doing the inking about her jewellery, which included a watch-ring (below). The senior leather specialist can also make pretty much anything in leather, so takes bespoke, niche orders. In the main shop he wrapped the two front columns in leather.
ABP can’t do patina painting on leather, however, which is a bit of a shame. The reason my existing Tank strap looks so nice is that it was patinated by The Valet back when they did that service, and then it’s been worn and worn. I’d also look to shoemakers if I wanted an alternative.
I received the strap about three weeks after the visit, and it is nice. The strap was a little snug fitting between the lugs of the watch, and after a few wears it still doesn’t move completely smoothly, but it’s got a lot better and it’s a minor issue now.
The sewing and work elsewhere was also good, though I’d still not quite as fine as the Jean Rousseau work. Perhaps that what you should expect, but I’d also say ABP has the advantage of a really big range of colours, and some more innovative options (eg a mass of different NATO straps).
The green colour works very nicely with denim, I’ve found, as well as warmer, more rural colours in tailoring - a tan or mid-brown jacket perhaps, as well as yellows and blues.
A darker green or subtler colour generally would have been more versatile, perhaps that darker green or a very dark blue. But I will certainly wear this one and enjoy it as an alternative to the normal tan.
The ABP straps all come with quick release mechanisms on the thick end, allowing you to swap them onto the watch easily. But they can’t do anything similar on the clasp end, so there you have to use a tool to take off the original clasp and swap it round, which can be very fiddly. Or you have a second clasp - fortunately I found one in a vintage store quite cheaply, but you can also get them on eBay or get cheap brass equivalents.
My strap cost £285 for crocodile, square belly scales; smaller round scales would have cost £190. Lucas also picked up a ready-made lizard strap in sky blue for £105 that was very nice.
30, Place du Marché Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris





































Simon when you bought the Cartier did it have an original Cartier tang buckle?
Yes it did
Thanks. The buckle shown here does not appear to be Cartier. Do you still have the original?
The buckle on the original tan strap of mine pictured is the original. With the green strap there’s a cheap brass equivalent I was trying out
Thaks Simon, iunderstood.
On this note Simon, did you bring the buckle yourself or do they also have various options to chose from here? It’s not mentioned in the list of options to choose from.
No, they don’t have their own buckles I don’t think, though I didn’t ask
Getting to visualise straps in the flesh is obviously a bonus. Interesting re the point not sticking out properly. I’ve just ordered a strap where the tip should be sticking out 10mm if I’m on the middle hole (blunt end, so 10mm seems fine) but I’m now considering for the first time that if I’m on a hole either side of this (like you I asked for just 3 holes) the blunt end will be sticking out just 5mm or slightly large 15mm. I will have a 2nd keeper on the strap but plan to cut it off if the strap fits well.
Even though this is my second strap the details can be quite difficult to visualise and see where there might be issues. Like what you say about ‘bespoke’, it’s not a simple substitute for ‘perfect’.
Yes, very true Jon
Quick release pins on watch straps are game changer for switching straps to alter the appearance of the watch and outfit. I’ll always look for them now when buying new straps.
Jean Rousseau makes my watch straps. Another option: no stitching. They made me an orange rubber watch strap (blue calf backing) and thought it look ‘sportier’ (cleaner, & more unique) with no stitching. The watch, btw, is a Ming.
Interesting, thanks Fred. That somehow looks too bare to me, but it’s probably because I don’t wear rubber straps
That’s one beautiful strap Simon!! Health to enjoy that.
For durability, what would be the strongest leather. I understand that They have a vast range including stingray, sharkskin, buffalo…all sourced according to CITES regulations… I certainly hope so!
On an off note… I absolutely adore racing green or darker!!! How can racing green or darker work in good tailoring. I’m thinking of a nice blazer…. maybe not a suit of course and I’d like to see knitwear in much darker shades of green…brown etc which I feel is more classy.
Even luggage in very dark racing green…or darker could look good!
Less fine leathers will usually be strongest Lindsay, or something like kangaroo as well (for its fineness/weight).
I’d try racing green in accessories before you do it in tailoring – socks, a cardigan, a scarf. A jacket could look a little flat unless it was a tweed, and perhaps like you think you’ve won the Masters!
Agreed on accessories.
Take a look at the wallets and accessories by Ettinger … in racing green and Teal among others.
What do you think of Ettinger BTW??
Albeit apparently they not hand sewn.
Does that affect the strength of the stitch?
Saddle stitching can AIUI only be done by hand, and is the strongest/most repairable method of stitching; that said, IME a wallet in a smooth fine leather like those will wear out the leather before the stitching goes, whether hand- or machine-stitched.
(I live down the road from the Ettinger factory; their stuff is nice, but you’re definitely paying a made in Britain premium.)
Super interesting.
Many thanks Jakob W
I recently had an odd jacket made in this fabric and have enjoyed it thus far. I find it dark enough to not stand out, but different enough to be different.
https://maisonhellard.com/collections/heures-bleues/products/1105
Interesting
Many thanks PAUL H
Not sure whether I like the extra functionality and detail of the chronograph pushers on this watch, or whether they just feel out of keeping with the dressy Cartier look…Incongruously sporty add-ons to a fundamentally smart object. Then again, there’s something quite charmingly period about such a chic watch having that sporty aspect – like the original Santos. Was that your thinking, Simon?
Yes Alec, plus the fact I just like having something different from everyone else. I adore Cartier, but I wouldn’t want the same Tank Louis as everyone
Simon, you are, without question, one of only 3 or 4 men I’ve ever encountered, that I would label as extraordinary!
Spiffy! Nothing better than a tank with a green band.
Do they do watch straps in less precious leathers (e.g. calf, goat, cordovan)?
Yes, quite a big range
Congrats on your strap – it looks great on the Cartier and will definitely suit many of your outfits. Coincidentally, I received my customised strap from ABP yesterday! I visited their workshop many years ago, but this time I ordered through their website. I agree it’s perhaps not the most modern-looking site, but it worked perfectly. ABP were also very quick to respond and asked a couple of questions to confirm the details of the order. My strap looks excellent, and I’m especially pleased with the quick-release mechanism.
Oh good, nice coincidence and nice to hear from someone else Philip
Simon,
Thank you for this article. Where did you pickup the brass buckle? Also, why wasn’t your Cartier included in the Subdial video? I have always thought this watch had the greatest outfit flexibility out of your set (looks great from black tie to an M65).
Best,
Rand
Hey Rand,
It was from eBay.
We couldn’t feature all the watches in the Subdial video unfortunately, and it was a case of finding ones that they had good alternatives for as well
Hi Simon,
I find the Crockett and jones harvards in shell to be very uncomfortable in the toe box and heels. Do you think Edward green’s belgravia will be more comfortable or just as bad?
I’d imagine it would be similar Ted
Surprised you didn’t go Camille Fournet. The Paris atelier is delightful but you can get the same service worldwide through their excellent website.
Most alligator hides are farmed and processed in the American South, in Florida where I live, or Louisiana. It is possible to visit the tanneries – many will buy a hide or hides, if you happen to have come across a recently-deceased gator – and see the tanning and dyeing processes up close and personal. I’m a bit tickled to know my Camille Fournet strap is a very cosmopolitan gator – born in Louisiana, “educated” in Paris and now living in Coral Gables!
I second this. I’ve found Fournet to edge out ABP in terms of quality in the longer term. However both make excellent products overall.
Thanks Rav
Please do a feature on Robert Redford’s style. He just passed and he was always well dressed. Thank you.
Hi Max,
Thank you. We may well do something in the future, though in general I usually avoid writing about the same things as everyone else unless I feel I have something unique to say. It just feels like you’re chasing clicks.
We did a piece on Armani because I knew a particularly good writer for it. But when King Charles came to the throne we didn’t until I felt there was something I had to say (here)
Apologies for the novice question, but I almost always see in classic films, white watch dials. Is wearing a black watch dial as a dress watch to a formal event considered a faux pas? Is the white watch dial seen as more elegant or dressy than a black watch dial, or are they interchangeable?
I’m no expert here Rich, but from a formality point of view both would certainly be fine, a white watch dial is just much more common and classic, a black one more unusual
Another bespoke strap maker is John Glance (Berlin) who owns the company Dangerous9. He made a wonderful strap of the same style (Alligator/Lizard) for my Rolex Daytona and it worked out great. Nice to disguise the Rolex by simply trading a leather strap for the too recognizable stainless steel bracelet.
Best,
Robert
Thanks Robert, very helpful. One to add to our Berlin shopping guide as well
I believe I’ve written about ABP before in the comments below a previous post. I purchased a custom crocodile strap for my Patek and was very pleased. I find it to be more comfortable and durable than the original. I had them design an indigo blue alligator double tour (wraps around the wrist twice) strap for my wife’s JLC and it looks amazing. It allows her to stack bracelets without damaging her watch. I’ve looked at other watch strap makers such as Equus (sadly no longer with us) and Camille Fournet and the thing that stands out to me about ABP is the sheer variety. When I visited their store it seemed as if they had every conceivable skin from toad to kangaroo in almost every colour. I’d say their quality is on par with my Fournet strap. I’m looking forward to commissioning new pieces from them next time I go to Paris.
Very useful, thank you Ian
I have a slightly related question. I have a GMT Pepsi rolex like yours, a 1967 model that my father gave me. The original metal bracelet is now on its last leg after nearly 30 years of daily wearing by him, and another 30 by me, but Rolex does not have the same bracelet model anymore. All it has are bracelets for similar watches from the 1980s, which look different. At this stage it makes more sense to replace it with a watchstrap made of cloth. What style would you choose, and where would you source it from?
It’s a good question Edouard. You can sometimes source vintage bracelets for watches like this, so it’s worth exploring eBay and Chrono24 and those kinds of places.
Otherwise I would go with something quick thick and substantial – it is a sports watch after all. So a roughout suede for example, or a thicker grained leather. Also rubber or a NATO strap could be good.
I haven’t looked for that type myself, but I would look at Rousseau and ABP first
I’ve already said something along these lines in a previous post, but I struggle to see why anyone would go for a machine-made strap when there are handmade alternatives around, some of them at a lower price than what Jean Rousseau, Camille Fournet and ABP charge. A saddle stitch is not only more durable, but also more beautiful as far as I’m concerned. I can vouch for Handdn, but there are many others, such as Strap Tailor in London or Monstraps in Singapore.
Thanks David, that is helpful
I would also highly recommend Aaron Bespoke in Montreal. Pricier than the likes of Handdn, but impeccable quality and still cheaper than JR/CF/ABP. He does beautiful travel cases, too.
I checked out his website. The work doesn’t look particularly refined and it’s all machine-made. Personally, I don’t see much added value compared with brands Handdn, Monstraps, Kairos Straps, etc. I wouldn’t spend my money there.
I have no affiliation, but I feel duty bound to point out his straps are all hand made (often with hand-painted details) in Montreal. There are some nice videos on his Instagram showcasing his team’s handiwork.
Maybe they told you otherwise, which wouldn’t surprise me in this day and age, but their work is machine-made. It’s fairly easy to tell by the way the stitches look, their spacing, and their upward orientation. Of course you could argue their sewing machines are operated by hand…
sei un fenomeno , dal niente ricavi reddito , BRAVO !!!
Simon ripeto : B R A V O !!!!
I actually know someone who ran alligator farms in the American South. I forwarded this article, and he found it interesting and amusing. The connections between people, industries and products never cease to amaze me.
Hi Simon, a question: do you wear the new strap while you wear other leather products (shoes, belt), and, if so, what colours would you pair it with?
I do, and as I often say, the key is to think of it like another accessory. So what would you wear a strong green tie with for example? Probably more a mid-brown or warmer colours, rather than say black. That’s how to think about the shoes etc
Hello Simon,
Might you share your understanding of the cost break down on watch straps?
It has always seemed odd to me that watch straps come out at this price point, in comparison to say a pair of Edward Green shoes, or a leather bag, which has much more leather and much more work.
Are the costs driving the price or is it because that is what people will pay?
I think it partly comes down to leather costs, at least with the exotics, because while only a small amount of leather is used, you can’t get many in the areas people want. And of course shoes or bags in those types of skins are many thousands.
Also an issue will be that most are made to order, you can’t have larger bulk production as with other leather goods