The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6
Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details. There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a relatively full sleeve into a smal...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6
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I think it's just as good as a first commission. Much more important is that you're asking the tailor to do something that they've made before - and that you've seen the final result of, tried, and like. That wasn't the ...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 5
The finished leather jacket. This bespoke project from Gieves & Hawkes has progressed quite quickly compared to tailoring, but it still feels like an age since Davide and I first conceived of the idea. Most of all, there is the sudden, surpr...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 5
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It depends what look you want Adrian. A stand-up collar would look more classic and slightly smarter. A bomber jacket one would be more casual...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 4
The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. You can’t fit leather in...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 4
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If in doubt I'd go for the dark brown Ravi, definitely...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 3
This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece of cloth to make up this piece....
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 3
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About 800 if I remember correctly...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2
This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide has since altered that, so ...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2
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Hey, Afraid not, I don't have experience of anybody. And yes, though don't have much to report either there I'm afraid...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1
There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1
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Simon wrote: "Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a definite style: I would put Edward Sexton,(...)" In the BBC series on Savile Row (Style Genius) Edward Sexton himself says: "I have not moved to ...
House of Billiam – bespoke varsity jackets
There is another side to the fashion industry that is more interesting than catwalks and cheap manufacture. Small designers usually begin by learning to sew and pattern cut, and then making their clothes individually by hand. The results can be bespo...
House of Billiam – bespoke varsity jackets
There is another side to the fashion industry that is more interesting than catwalks and cheap manufacture. Small designers usually begin by learning to sew and pattern cut, and then making their clothes individually by ...
Barbour video: the factory and the aftercare
I love this video made in the Barbour factory and the homes of some of its long-term customers. Barbours are great for patination – a fancy word for ‘dirt’ in this case – and I didn’t realise how much...
Barbour video: the factory and the aftercare
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My father bought me one when I was sent off to school. I grew out of it and my brother adopted it, and then two cousins did the same. I have had the same one I purchased while at uni fifteen years ago, and it feels even ...
Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend
I know a few men who have discovered an interest in clothes in recent years – primarily suits, shirts, ties, good shoes. The working wardrobe, essentially. They know about the canvas in a jacket’s chest; they have established how and why ...
Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend
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Yep...
Two very different jackets and jeans
When a jacket-and-jeans combination works well, it is one of the most stylish outfits a man can wear, successfully bridging the casual and the formal, and merging the best elements of both. It is, however, hard to get right. As mentioned in a previou...
Two very different jackets and jeans
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Will do thank you....
