Before you decide anything in the morning about what you’re going to wear, consider density of pattern.
Ok, maybe select your suit first. But then, before reaching for the shirt, look at the pattern of your suit and consider it. Is there a pattern? What is its density? How might that density harmonise with, clash with or simply stay a good distance away from other patterns in your outfit?
Ok (another backtrack) maybe you wouldn’t obsess quite like this. But you should think about how a suit, shirt and tie relate in terms of density of pattern before you consider anything else – colour, knot vs. collar size, blade width vs. lapel width.
Having patterns that are too similar next to each other is the biggest way men go wrong with their morning dressing.
It’s simple. If patterns are next to each other, make sure they are of different sizes. If you are going to wear a striped suit, make sure you don’t pick a striped shirt. Or if you do, make sure the stripes are at opposite ends of the size spectrum – a wide chalk striped suit, say, with a fine hairline striped shirt.
It would be safest to go for a plain tie at this stage, but if you insist on going for stripes again, make sure they are wide also, to differentiate them from the shirt – a club stripe say.
This still isn’t ideal, as the stripes of tie and suit will still be next to each other where the jacket closes. This could be ameliorated by trying to find a third, intermediate width for one item, or (better) by making sure one stripe is rather pale (probably the suit).
Right. Now, one way to differ patterns further is to swap stripes for spots. Pin stripes that are, for example, a half-inch apart, could work fine with spots that are the same distance apart. Obviously, the more different they are in size the safer.
Other patterns provide similar relief – a large paisley, for example, against a stripe (probably tie on shirt). Or checks. Ideally a checked shirt should be matched against a striped suit of different density, but the very fact they are different types of patterns provides the minimal difference.
The image illustrates this well. The combination of stripes and herringbone works easily because they are of different densities.
And that’s how to mix patterns.
(Image: Bruce Boyer, courtesy of The Sartorialist)
You’ve picked a truly gorgeous example here. Now if only I had the guts to wander away from plain cream/white/pink shirts to patterned shirts. Most of my suits are solids anyway…
2 Guest Comments »
Thank you, Simon. That’s just the kind of advice a style-ignoramus like myself needs.
Comment by dysfunctor — December 23, 2008 #
Thanks – have you seen this site?
It expounds many of the same principles you espouse, & is a useful reference for pattern matching.
Comment by Paul Hardy — December 23, 2008 #
Yes, yes I quite understand the message conveyed here. Density (D=M/V) is misused in this summary, however.
With regards to proportion, “scale” is a more appropriate term that best describes the combined usage of various geometries.
Sometime ago, it would have been ‘bad taste’ to wear checkered suit, shirt and tie…or striped all 3. I still stick to that…Nowadays many combinations are permisable albeit eye poking
I was wondering if Bruce is wearing a suit with a balmacaan coat. If so, do you know what the suit is made of?
He is. I believe the suit is a grey flannel