Takizawa Shigeru makes beautiful suits and jackets. But while the style details of his tailoring stood out to me in a recent communication (particularly his emphasis on a very slim edge to the top of a jacket’s waist pocket), it was the philosophy that was unique.

Says Shigeru: “A gentleman must not take off his jacket too easily.”

“Even if you sweat, working at your desk, sitting at a bar or having a dinner with your sweet heart.

“Not even while you are driving.

“When men wear a suit or a jacket, he must not take off his jacket too easily.

“That I think is the man’s dignity.

Though at the same time we must not forget that this theory becomes true only if the clothing is graceful and comfortable enough for his movement.”

Allowing for Mr Shigeru’s English, it is a beautifully made point. And I don’t know whether the positioning of the text (reproduced here) was deliberate, but does add some poetry to the sentiment.

It is not easy wearing a jacket all day while sitting at your desk. It is particularly difficult if your arms are constantly stretched forwards at the keyboard. Perhaps most of all, there is little incentive to wear your jacket when air conditioning makes it unnecessary for warmth.

There are several things that a man can do to make his bespoke jackets easier to sit in – without, of course, just making them bigger. A smaller, higher armhole adds flexibility, as does a relatively large sleevehead that has been edged into that armhole. (Also, if you have slightly roped shoulder, as I prefer, the sleevehead is that little bit bigger anyway.)

You can also have pleats put into the back – either one in the middle or two at the sides (an ‘action back’). These were originally designed to make it easier for a man to point a gun for long periods of time. The same function almost applies to typing. Lastly, you can have the jacket half-lined only, which makes the back more breathable for those long hours sitting against a chair. The only disadvantage to this is that the back will lose its shape more easily.

For those without access to bespoke, these things may not be available. One solution is The Logical Waistcoat Theory, which I have written about enough to bore anyone, including me. But even if you don’t have any of these solutions to hand, you know you could wear your jacket a little bit more during the day. And if you do it will flatter your figure, add purpose to your shirt and tie, and most of all give a point to buying suits in the first place.

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Sartorial Vancouver

And for the man standing up or walking around, this little gem: keep your coat buttoned. This will ensure that the coat does indeed flatter your figure.

mark

sounds good…men really look elegant with suits.. i like to have one my brother for his birthday..btw i manage to find a site that give
Fathers Day Discounted Suits but im broke..i hope i can buy one for him T_T

marin

I agree with Mr. Shigeru and you fully. To many modern men, the suit jacket serves about the same purpose as an overcoat: one sometimes puts it on when he is outside.

I would like to add another observation, of a trend that seems to be happening in mostly business circles, but also everywhere to a lesser degree. Namely the fact that the dress shirt somehow seems to become the outer layer of clothing a man wears inside, sometimes with a white t-shirt underneath.

Personally, I find this arrangement a bit regretful, especially because a dress shirt can never give a man the proportion-enhancing qualities and the air of style that a well-cut suit coat can provide.

The Sage

Mr Shigeru is wise indeed. A man looks more dashing with his jacket on and if you spend a lot of your time at a desk or otherwise seated (like most men thee days) you’ll spend most of your time with your jacket off meaning the outfit is incomplete most of the time. What a waste. That being said I subscribe to Simon’s Logical Waistcoat Theory as a solution for men without access to the tailored alternatives.

A lot of silly things are said and this Jap just said one of em

The

As an American, I fully agree. I lived in Europe for half my life, and love both sides of the pond, but many Americans (that should know better) have sacrificed good taste and style for comfort. This is fine with me, albeit aesthetically unpleasing to my eye, as what one wears (or eats or reads) is a personal choice. However, I have a huge problem with this American foolishness that to be sloppily dressed in ill-fitting clothes is ‘cute’ or hip. It is not. Over-sized trousers, white t-shirts visible under a a button down collar and baseball hats are simply ugly and in poor taste. Perhaps they put something in the water here…

K. Pollock

A gentleman should never remove his jacket in the presence of ladies. It is the only polite way to treat the gentle sex.