This week is blue-shirt week. Over the next three days I will post about three blue shirts made for me in recent months, by three different makers. Hopefully running the three together will make for some interesting comparisons.

They are all identical in style – spread collar, single cuff, placket-less front. Little things like the shape of the collar stand, however, lead to some surprising differences. And the levels of hand work vary substantially. Whether that matters to you is something I’ll be interested in hearing comments on.

On the other hand, I would suggest not spending too much time analysing the fit of the shirts. As anyone who has tried photographing himself in a suit will know, the 2D result usually reflects little of how the 3D piece actually fits. I realise they are needed for the sake of perspective, but I recommend giving little weight to them.

The shirts were made by Burgos of Madrid, Satriano Cinque of Naples and Segun Adelaja of London (top to bottom, above). All were my first shirts, the first two bespoke and the third made to measure. This may seem like a slightly unfair comparison, but given Adelaja’s MTM price (£240 and up) they deserve to be compared together.

We start, tomorrow, with Burgos.  

UPDATE:
The three reviews are now complete. See them here:
Burgos
Satriano Cinque
Segun Adelaja


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Néstor

It would be interesting to know which kind of fabrics are used on them, and their manufacturers. I am specially interested in Burgos, because I have the chance to go to Madrid to order some shirts if they are a good deal in terms of comparison for example with Salvatore Piccolo and Finamore, which are easier to purchase from the internet and whose style and quality (not fit, obviously) are really high.

Thomas

It would interesting to hear your thoughts on the rear design of bespoke shirts as there is not much talk on it ie. pleats, yokes, darts etc. What are your preferences and why.

Anonymous

looking forward to this new venture simon .. should be interesting to get a view of these not so well known makers.

ive got a question for you if you dont mind on a seperate issue only i could have foolishly got myself into simon 🙁 after initial measurements were taken by a tailor for a bespoke jacket and while waiting for my 1st fitting (considerable wait of several months) ive dropped a whole waist size (36 to 34) and my build may have changed slightly elsewhere (difficult to tell with my non tailoring eye but perhaps shoulders has become slightly more defined) .. is it possible to readjust something as drastic as this or have i shot myself in the foot by taking up a healthy eating plan / swimming at precisely the wrong time? im a bit concerned that i may be awaiting disaster when the first fitting is done .. uncertain as this is my first bespoke commission after being inspired after reading your blog!

raj

Anonymous

hi simon, thanks for your reply, just for my info what sort of fundamental changes arent possible to change at the first fitting stage?

is it possible to ask for more/less swell on the chest for example (so im guessing this involves altering some of the internals)? i was unsure when intitial measurements and requests were taken as to how much ‘chest’ i wanted so was hoping to have a look as it develops and offer guidance as we go along. its tricky to know what you want exactly when youve never been through such a process and have only worn rtw tailoring where you sort of accept whatever is given as long as the overall look is pleasing.

raj

Anonymous

ok thanks, youve put my mind at rest now 🙂

keep up the good work on the blog simon, its the best online source of info on bespoke clothing by far.

Raj

Anonymous

Hi Simon, I was wondering if you have any thoughts on the quality of the shirts at Charvet, Battistoni, or Micocci? I’ve heard all three often recommended, so I was curious about your opinion?

Style guru

Hi

I am looking for a soft light blue cotton shirt ,do you please forward me any link and offers.

thanks