Gieves & Hawkes has always had a good bespoke operation, and surprisingly large on site, but it gets relatively little press. A definite bonus has been Davide Taub, who joined from Maurice Sedwell recently to become co-head cutter alongside Lee Webb.
One of its identifying features is a soft shoulder, using a pre-made pad but cut down by hand to thin out the neck area, giving a subtle kick at the shoulder. Not a pagoda shoulder by any means, but something that suggests breadth in the same way as a Cifonelli roped sleevehead.
Hopefully the imagery here gets across some of these aspects. Something in me also really likes the mix of brass and horn buttons on the sleeve, but I can see myself changing my mind on that in two months. Perhaps just on a one-button (brass) navy blazer?