Cotton gabardine is probably the best suit material for men who don’t like suits. It is soft and casual, shaping to the body in the way cotton will, but not bagging like corduroy or wrinkling like linen. It also ages subtly and gracefully. The cotton suit I had made a few years ago has worn noticeably on the cuffs and front edge.


The only disadvantage to cotton is that it has no natural stretch, unlike wool. This means it can feel tight quite easily, so have it cut a touch more generously.


Like a cotton zip-jacket or lightweight pair of jeans, it doesn’t have to be a summer material either. Just layer it with knitwear or wrap a scarf over the top.


Michael Hill of Drake’s is pictured in a green cotton suit, complete with buttondown shirt, grenadine tie and madder-finish orange handkerchief, all matching the casual nature of the suit and coordinating nicely with its colour.



On me: Tim Everest pinstripe suit, Edward Green Top Drawer monk-straps, Drake’s tie, Rubinacci pocket square


Picture: Luke Carby