Gieves & Hawkes baste


A few weeks ago, a reader made the point that all my adventures with bespoke tailors could give the impression that this is the optimum way to build a wardrobe. That’s certainly not the case.

The process of bespoke tailoring is about building a relationship with a tailor. Initially, so that they understand your body and its various peculiarities. The second suit will take fewer fittings than the first, once the tailor has developed an effective pattern while making the first one.

There’s a good chance that the second suit will fit ever-so-slightly better. And it will certainly be more satisfying in other ways – in cut, in cloth or in style. It’s virtually impossible to get all these decisions right the first time, or for the tailor to interpret your various requests and reactions.

The virtue, then, of having one tailor (‘my tailor’) is that this process becomes quicker, easier and more enjoyable over time. I had eight suits cut by John Hitchcock at Anderson & Sheppard before he retired, and by the end it was a process that needed almost no communication. I might spend a good hour browsing fabric books, but in the fitting room I was merely a mannequin – confirmation of a well-oiled technique.

That doesn’t mean a man should only have one tailor. People trade up over time; they may try an alternative, even just for context; and most importantly, they might want different styles.
 

Gieves tailoring

 
Unsurprisingly, the first question most people in the industry ask me is ‘who’s your favourite tailor?’ There’s no simple answer to that, as readers will well understand, but you can certainly make a quick and easy argument for having different styles.

I would suggest, as a start, that a man could have:

  • One good Neapolitan tailor, for casual jackets that work with jeans and chinos
    • eg Elia Caliendo
    • or if slightly smarter, a drape cut like A&S
  • One ultra-structured tailor, for evening wear or black tie
    • e.g. Chittleborough & Morgan
    • or Gieves/Huntsman for a less striking look
  • And one everyday tailor, assuming you wear suits most days, with the style depending on taste
    • I’d pick Cifonelli or Anderson & Sheppard
    • or an Italian like Caraceni or Liverano to be a touch more casual

So you can certainly justify three. I’ve tried far more than that, partly out of curiosity and partly out of the pursuits of this site. But it’s not the route I would recommend.

Images courtesy of Gieves & Hawkes from ‘The Invention of the English Gentleman

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George

And back against the wall who would your three be and why? A complete guide to choosing a tailor would be valuable, thousands of pounds seems a waste to get the wrong shop!

JB

Hi Simon,
First of all, many thanks for running this blog – it has given me many hours of joy looking at the beautiful garments you talk about here. Couple of questions I would love your expert advice on:
1. In the last Graham Bronwe sale I managed to pick up a plain dark grey Loro Piana cloth that I am turning int o a DB sports jacket. After a couple of fittings I realise it is coming out looking rather formal, despite it having soft shoulders and patch pockets. Is there a good way of toning it down A) during the remainder of the bespoke process and B) when I finally come to wearing it?
2. I am fascinated by the quality of Savile Row houses – it seems like the only way to experience it is to take the plunge and commission a suit. However, at my current pay level, it will take about 9 months of savings in order to get there, and not to mention not taking any holidays or undertaking any other purchases in between. I know this is strictly a matter of personal preference, but in your opinion is this worth doing?

JTR

5 years (and many tailors) later would you still pick the same five?

DE

I couldn’t agree more Simon! I have used the same tailor now for 12 years and my suits work/fit incredibly well now – I bet he could almost make me a suit blinfolded and without fittings if he tried! However, for some reason he never makes casual blazers, overcoats or morning coats that fit me as well as his suits, so I have those kind of items made by someone else.
It seems very sensible to have 2 or 3 friendly tailors on hand who can offer you different interpretations of garments.
Just a quick question – does Caliendo make trips to London?

YB

Hi Simon,

My first bespoke commission (a navy flannel DB) is in the works at A&S with Leon Powell cutting. I am now thinking about my “structured suit”.

Would you know when Lorenzo’s next visit to London is? Or should I simply go see Joe at C&M? I would love a Cifonelli three-piece but do not have the time for the Eurostar trip to Paris. Apart from the styling points, is one better than the other in terms of construction/finish? I assume they are comparable in prices too – in fact given the exchange rate I think C&M is slightly pricier?

Lastly, given I am relatively new to this field, is it considered rude to discuss the total price with the tailor if you are having multiple things done (multiple suits, extra trousers/waistcoats)? Should I simply accept the price being quoted?

Thanks,
YB

Anonymous

Hi Simon

Have you been happy with Vergallo? Would you say his style is formal? You mentioned previously that his cut was quite soft for a Milanese tailor. This led me to thinking, he could be used for more casual cuts. Would I be correct in assuming this?

As always, thanks.

nick inkster

If you are OK about the Row quality without your tailor being on the Row, you can get some real price advantage. Without naming names, you can go to Leeds, Luton or Carlisle and get stuff made that shames some of the Row names.

Anonymous

Were you generally happy with Vergallo? His prices seem very reasonable.

Paul Weide

I have five tailors. Each has his strength, but each wants all of my business. Several years ago I had to make an excuse to reschedule a fitting because I’d inadvertently double-booked. The tailor looked in my eyes and knew.

He knew I was seeing another tailor.

Rabster

It was interesting following some of the links from this article that led me to articles from earlier times when you were having suits made by Graham Browne and was still dreaming of having suits made in Savile Row.
On that note , for those of us with more modest means , what would be your recommendation of 3 or 5 tailors ?

P.S. the links to other articles work a treat and prove how the ‘new ‘ website works a treat !

J

Love your comment @Paul Weide, so true!

My experience is one of ruthless pragmatism though. Sometimes I want what I want now.

Often one tailor you are working with will be at capacity (particularly if you use those who smaller operations). It is simply too much to bear to work to their timeframe of being ‘queued’. Therefore one must have a roster of reliable and pattern-perfected other tailors on rota to work with.

If the one in mind can’t start right now to satisfy my latest sartorial whim and to the timeframe I have in mind, another can be on speed dial.

Therefore I feel 3 are best as a minimum.

Rafael Ebron

Would love to know what suits you got from A&S. Doesn’t have to go into full detail, just style and maybe weight/colors. 8 seems like plenty or at least a great start.

Mac

Your good self apart, Simon, I still maintain that a well-dressed man needs only one good tailor.

In R-T-W, you shop around because you can’t find everything you need in one shop. In bespoke, you order everything that you want from your tailor. One firm. No need to shop around. Formal, informal, Summer, Winter. Same quality of fit and construction. The beginnings of your own personal style. Recognisably you.

Why this need for some to wear every style under the sun? To be both Fred Astaire and Lapo Elkman. I’ve as much need to dress like a Neapolitan rake as he has to wear a 3-pce tweed shooting suit. I think it’s better to find yourself first.

Then, go to a tailor.

Mac

Simon,
I do understand that you like the style of Neapolitan garments. Fine with me. What I don’t agree with is the assertion that a traditionally-tailored tweed or linen coat or blazer can’t be worn with jeans. Look around you – people have been wearing such things with jeans for decades!

One’s taste in fit and construction needn’t change if wearing a jacket with jeans or corduroys. The cloth only changes and maybe the details. If you assert that you prefer Neapolitan ‘tailoring’ with jeans that’s about choice. I only worry that some may misunderstand, and think that it’s a solecism to wear normal tailoring with jeans etc. It’s not. It’s the norm.

As a bespoke tailor, I don’t like unstructured coats. It looks too much like cheap R-T-W. But hey, that’s choice right?

TC

One – if they’re good – is enough.

john

I had four suits made over a three year period at Gieves and I can completely agree that the fourth was better than the first. But I wouldn’t use them for casual clothing and like some other comments I went to another tailor for two jackets. I then made the mistake of wearing a single breasted blazer I had made to a fitting and again while nothing was said the look in the eye spoke volumes.
I would by the way love Nick Inkster to name names on tailors in Luton and Leeds who can make better than the Row at a lower price point. I just don’t believe it – but am now worried I might be missing out on something!

Mac

To those who spread themselves thin with several tailors; why hide it? You’re sorely mistaken to think that you’re the first to do so. Tell your tailor who else you use. Most Clients do.

Tailors would prefer that you used only one firm. It’s nothing to do with jealousy. It’s based on tailoring wisdom. Some of the comments here make me despair.

J

Mac,

I’m a bit shocked at your disapproval of those who want to sometimes “switch things up” as the saying goes though?

Can’t you concede that on some days you may indeed want to be Lapo and the next, Fred Astaire? (Context assuming you have relevant need or cause to be a Lapo in a given environment).

I travel a lot for work overseas – so for me, in certain ‘business casual’ environments, a tailored British suit would just look almost inappropriate. So that’s when I feel I look my best in something ‘stereotypically’ Italian.

Similarly, if I go to receive a knighthood at B.P. I am not going to wear anything not created 100% in the British isles and with the sharpest of silhouettes.

BTW, I’m always ‘honest’ with my tailors that I use different ones. I have nothing to be ashamed of, (!) it would be like saying, assuming a normal family background and circumstances, which is your favourite child of yours, or sibling of yours. They all have different gifts and one will be a help more in certain circumstances than others. 🙂

Please also understand that sometimes you need a few garments made concurrently. One guy may just not be able to do it to your timeframe.

BespokeNYC

Mac, I don’t see anything wrong with wanting to wear different styles for different occasions. Most men wouldn’t really consider a business suit to be appropriate for weekend wear (or a night out) but a nice casual sport coat can look great. As such, why not use a tailor whose expertise lies in creating the style you are looking for?

Most of the tailors I’ve worked with have a fairly distinctive house style and, while they might be open to experimentation, they are usually pretty clear that a big divergence from that style is probably not a good idea. This seems fair enough to me; I wouldn’t expect Cifonelli to make spalla camica any more than I’d expect Formosa to make me fishtail back trousers, so why should I expect one tailor to be able to create every style I want to wear?

Nick Inkster

John

Look at Steed, Souster, and Des Merrion

Anonymous

Mac

You really do have a bee in your bonnet. Calm down.

Mac

Sorry Anonymous if I alarmed you! No, I just think this mentality of ‘must have it tomorrow’ is a fashion way of thinking. Simon bangs on so much about slowly building your wardrobe and plugging the gaps over time. He’s absolutely right.

Bespoke tailoring requires a different way of thinking. It requires patience and respect for the work and time that goes into those garments. Bespoke should never be bought on a whim.

Why does David Beckham wear designer brand clothes and not bespoke? He could certainly afford it. Perhaps he’s not suited to it?

Anonymous

Nick

Des Merrion is not cheap, especially when you consider his location.

G. Bruce Boyer

As an objective note, the idea that a man should only have one tailor and stick to that firm is an old idea that tailors have always propagated (one, I should confess, that appealed to me when I was young). But few men well-dressed men, in my experience, have actually stuck to this idea. Most well-dressed men I know have several tailors. I can only suppose there are two reasons for this: one, that a tailor who’s done wonders for you might not be a good match for everyone else who hears your recommendation; and second, that we all keep looking for the ideal, when there is no such thing. Tailors are mere mortals.

Mac

Mr Boyer, it’s great to hear your opinion. Simon has a habit of creating great debates!

If we go back to Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Cary Grant et al, they all used various tailors. However, like yourself, their style didn’t really alter at all. They used different tailors out of curiosity, but their essential style remained.

I can’t really picture you in a Chittleborough & Morgan house speciality. Nor, a Gieves pagoda-shoulder style. You stated that you found your style many years ago and stayed true to it. To me, that shows integrity and confidence.

What I struggle to understand, is those who want to wear every style, every trend and, yes, every tailoring style in existence. It smacks of insincerity. That is surely the antithesis of a personal style. It is everyone elses style, as worn by one man.

Matt S

My preferred style of jacket is a softer English look, like what Douglas Hayward made. His dinner jackets and corduroy jackets have the same natural shoulder cut, and I think both look perfect for their respective formal and casual uses. If someone uses a middle-of-the-road tailor, really only one tailor is necessary. I find that softer tailoring can work for both casual and formal jacket, whilst the stiffer traditional Savile Row tailoring only works for the more formal side.

nick inkster

Anonymous
I am a bit surprised by your comment about Des. He’s about 2/3 of the Row.

Paul Weide

Simon, I enjoyed your earlier–and related–post about tailors and their willingness to accept small differences of opinion in the envisioned garment. Standing before the mirror one fitting, my tailor asked me where I’d like the hem of my trousers to fall. I felt adventurous, and remembered the bit in “Gentlemen’s Guide” (p.139) about how wearing slightly shorter trousers is a youthful look. The “Mid-Atlantic Solution” as I think it was called (by Flusser?).

The look on my tailor’s face was that of Jeeves upon discovering the white mess jacket with brass buttons that Bertie brought back from Cannes. He shook his head and ignored me, chalking the standard continental length.

TC

And how many cordwainers? Rhetorical, of course: there is only one J.Adler

Giffen

I aspire to one day having one tailor…

john

I thought Des was in prison?
Steed I have heard mixed things about – think I would rather suggest Thomas Mahon though he is edging over £3000 per suit now. Souster I don’t know but note they charge £2800 including VAT and that is hitting the same price point as several good London tailors and Mr Mahon – though not the Row
Simon – I started reading online blogs through an English Cut and I know that you have mentioned Thomas Mahon in your blog. As an ex A&S cutter I just wonder if you have ever used him or have any thoughts on his service?

Fingle

Simon, do you have any thoughts on Cad & The Dandy? A much more affordable option than established tailors on the Row (similar pricing to Graham Browne) and up front about their process (fitting and measuring in the UK, work done in China, I believe). It is a high volume business but from what I have seen, the product looks good. However, I would be interested in your thoughts or the thoughts of any readers with experience of the company. Thanks.

Nick Inkster

John

Just for info;

Your Des comment is not up to date; I had a fitting with him this week.
Steed was started by Edwin and Thomas when they left A&S. Tom struck out on his own later and established English Cut.
Souster is about £2300 inc VAT.

I have suits from all three, and would suggest they are up there with the very best on the Row. If you are in their neck of the woods, save yourself some money.

Frank

What makes you conclude they are “up with the very best on the Row”? I have seen the very large stitches in chest pieces by one of the above mentioned. That was definitely not “up with the very best on the Row”.

LM

To Frank. It would be far more helpful if you could please elaborate on who you are referring to when you say that one of the above makes very large stitches in chest pieces. I intend to be visiting one of these tailors later this year. It’s simply not enough to say “one of the above”, is it?

Richard

Nick,

Can I ask how you would rate Des Merrion compared to Savile Row. I am thinking of having new bespoke dinner suit made and not sure whether to go with Des or Dege & Skinner. I would value you opinion of quality, construction and fit.

Thanks

nick inkster

Hi Richard

I have had stuff made in Paris, Italy and the Row for years, Des is right up there, and the best bit is that he does everything himself. He measures, cuts, fits, trims and sews the whole thing. And he’s a really good guy. Don’t hesitate.

Matt

Fingle,

I ordered one a “fully-handmade” suit from Cad & the Dandy last year after reading several favourable reviews online.

The overall experience wasn’t bad but it certainly wasn’t great. Aside from rapidly tiring of having to travel back and forth from Northumberland to London for repeated fittings, there were also a number of minor quality issues with finished garment, namely some trapped stitching around the lapel buttonhole which created an unsightly bulge in the lapel and a jacket button which flew off when I first wore the suit.

I also really didn’t like the fact that they seem to use reverse pleats as standard in their trousers, but I guess that’s a matter of personal preference.

Would I use them again? Maybe, but for the time being I think I will probably try and find someone offering a similarly priced MTM service closer to home, such as Des Merrion or Steed.

BespokeNYC

I can’t deny there’s a certain old world charm about the idea of having one tailor (ideally who knows you so well they can pre-select cloths for you) but I agree with Mr Boyer that the search for the ideal often supersedes that notion.

Moreover, I really believe that personal style is about more than just the style of tailoring you wear. As Simon expertly demonstrates, it’s perfectly possible to have a strong personal style that is reflected by different tailoring styles for different occasions and whether you want to be more or less casual.

Thomas

Simon, I’d have one more question, with a short introduction first: Of my tailored things, whether suits or more casual jackets, some 80% have been done by A&S, which I am glad to see you have as a tailor that can do both. Additionally I have two more tailors that I use sometimes (both from Germany. At some point you should give my compatriots here a try as well btw. Style-wise our reputation is indeed below England, France and Spain, but if you know what you like and are looking for quality of make I think our tailors are competitive), with one of them having a pretty structured approach, vaguely reminiscent to Huntsman I’d say.

On to the question: I’m currently contemplating the purchase of a cashmere jacket. The natural approach would be to go to A&S with that as well, but I have to reckon that one issue I have with some of their garments (aside from the inability to get the 3-roll-2 100% right, as I concur) usually become relevant with rather light & soft clothes. With these, sometimes the front tends to become somewhat flabby below the fastening button, turning inside out and even rippling a little, which is less of a problem if I do fasten it but can still look a bit too untidy for my taste. Now you do mention elsewhere that for cashmere, holding shape is more of an inherent issue than for other clothes, so I am wondering if some more structure would not be advisable (while still staying away from a sharp shoulder, which I assume is doable). Any thoughts on this?

Regards
Thomas

Anon

Simon – I’m glad you made this post. If I were to have one criticism of your blog it’s that we don’t really get a proper sense of what your own personal style is. There is lots of showcasing and different house styles but it’s would be interesting to see how you have made these your own. I don’t know – perhaps augmenting this with your Instagram account or something if the blog doesn’t work for that.

I also agree that it would be great to see posts in tailors where you have multiple comissions. These would be a great resource for people thinking of using them.
I truly hope this doesn’t sound overly critical – keep up the good work!

Fingle

Matt,
re: Cad and the Dandy, I appreciate the feedback. I presume that they attended to the stitching and button issue? I would choose a flat front on trousers so the reverse pleat preference is not an issue – however, I would hope that CATD could manage any of those finishes.
For most of us who aren’t prepared to spend £3k plus on a bespoke suit, I guess CATD or Graham Browne and the like offer a happy medium – a third of the price (ish) but I would hope not a third of the quality. The real choice is perhaps to go for MTM from a ‘higher quality’ tailor or a bespoke from the aforementioned tailors? The only way to find out is to try both – in which case it might cost the same as one bespoke suit from the Row! There is no right answer – it is a case of suck it and see!

Matt

Fingle,

I choose to have the repairs done locally in order to avoid mailing the jacket back to London. Cad & the Dandy did call me to apologise and offered to give me a free shirt with my next order. However I can’t help but feel as though such silly mistakes should not have been allowed to leave the workroom in the first place.

I’m sure they can pleat the trousers however one would wish. I merely found it a bit odd that the default style was to use reverse pleats as opposed to the traditional forward pleat.

I’ve subsequently shown the suit to ex-Savile Row cutter who now operates his own business in my immediate vicinity and he thought the amount of hand-work and the finish of the Cad suit was generally quite good for the money.

As I said, I found them okay and would probably be more willing to give them another try if they were to start offering fittings closer to where I live.

Winot

It has been commented above that it takes a while for a tailor to perfect a cut, so that work gets better as time goes on. All true.

However, I have also found that a tailor’s work can go off the boil, for example when they get too busy. Another reason to have a choice of houses to go to.

Mac

Hi Winot,
How do you know that the second firm isn’t also busy? If you’re going to justify using a few tailoring firms at least say it’s out of curiosity and a liking for those companies’ images. Nothing wrong with that!

As an apprentice cutter, I had six suits made at one firm. My pattern was established on the first suit with small refinements made later. I used (due to availability) four different coatmakers on the six coats. Each coatmaker’s work looked markedly different to the next. The lack of consistency drove me mad!

Now, imagine four different firms’ house styles, four different cutters’ idiosyncrasies, four different coatmakers and four different finishers doing the handwork. What a bloody mess!

I don’t expect everyone to have such attention to detail as an actual tailor has, but when we tell you it’s better to have one guy we’re not being jealous or childish. It’s about tailoring. Joe Morgan, Alan Bennett, Lorenzo Cifonelli or Edward Sexton would probably think the same way. Don’t worry, you can go to as many tailors as you want!

Winot

Mac – I’m speculating as to the reason quality might be going down. Ultimately if the quality drops too much then I’m out of there.

Philip

I’ve had a 3 piece (fully canvassed/bespoke option) suit made at Cad and the Dandy. Subsequently I’ve also had a 3 piece suit, a couple of jackets and several pairs of trousers made at Graham Browne. The quality of the end products were similar but the actual experience of being measured and having fittings were quite different. Cad and the Dandy was very slick but I was frustrated that I always saw someone different each visit despite asking to see the same person. However, the work was done well, opening times were good (evenings and Saturdays) and I was very pleased with the final result. Graham Browne is a little chaotic but I’m happy to put up with that to see the same couple of people every time. It did take longer to get my trousers pattern just right but the last couple of pairs have been great. Since finding Graham Browne I haven’t been back to Cad & the Dandy but I can’t complain about the fit or the quality of their work – it was more the overall experience.

Matt

Philip,

Interesting. Despite the fact that you were evidently more satisfied with the finished product (which is what counts after all), I found the service at Cad & the Dandy reasonably good. I met the same salesperson each time and the cutter was also present for both the basted and forward fitting, something which does not appear to be standard practice from the reviews I have read online. I would certainly try and insist on this if I were to use them again in future, as the cutter picked up a number of issues with the fit that the salesperson had clearly overlooked.

Dan

There is without doubt attractions to both arguments, the one tailor that knows you so well that he can both make the perfect fit without any alterations necessary or suggest something new that you instantly love . On the other hand its also interesting to try new things, see how different people approach the same issue and I doubt many of us are the same person at all times in all situations so why should our clothes be? A personal style doesnt mean there cannot be some variety in it.

I am however surprised about the number of commentators you have here who seem to have a significant number of friends/ associates that are “into” bespoke tailoring like themselves. I dont know if its a case of moving in different circles but both personally and professionally I know of only two people that have had anything bespoke made and both have been one off experiences (one HK based mail order, other SR). It does make me curious how these other people are meeting these similarly minded people, assuming they dont work in the trade.

Fingle

Dan,

I share your experience. I work in The City and even though many of my colleagues can afford to dress much better, almost none of them do. Most buy ill-fitting, off-the-peg suits, wear no ties and unpolished, cheap shoes. Wearing a even a simple white pocket square causes untold derision. Dressing well, even in London, places one firmly in the small minority. More reason to do it, of course.

Mac

Hi Fingle,
Whatever impression PS and the Rake give you, the actual number of men who wear bespoke suits is tiny. No need to feel like you’re the odd man out!

Unfortunately, it’s a very expensive pastime these days. At £4000 average for a suit in Savile Row, it’s really a sport for the wealthy. A large proportion of Savile Row’s clients are foreign. New York alone is one of the biggest bespoke cities of the world.

That said, if someone is passionate about style, they can buy maybe one or two bespoke suits from SR or go to a cheaper bespoke tailor. Simon has covered tailors at every price level. Just wear the best that you can afford.

I honestly think that a bespoke suit in itself cannot make you stylish. You can achieve great style without lavishing thousands on your wardrobe. It’s not necessary to have the very best that’s available. Leave that to those who don’t need to worry about the expense.

I find it depressing that the average City worker makes little effort in their dress. All I’d say is just dress to please yourself. Let them poke fun. You might even inspire some of them to do the same.

james

Simon hi
I need new work suit – the last two came from Graham Browne , pretty good with the
second one much better, but this is probably because i let Dan and
Russell cut it to me rather than insisting on overly tailoring
everything. However with the new job based in Mayfair getting over to GB
is near on impossible. Hence is there an alternate in the west end – I
did pop in to Timothy Everest and Thom Sweeney the other day but Iąm
nervous as they felt like a sale pitch and a pricey one at that. Thanks as always.
J

Michael

Simon, thanks for all these helpful posts. I have certainly been guilty of experimentation with tailors which has been fun but not entirely rational or cheap. Would you add additional tailors to the list for trousers or do you find your above selection to be able to fulfill most formal/casual trousers needs?

Thanks!

Fred

Hi Simon,
Since John Hitchcock has retired from A&S, who at A&S now would you recommend as cutter?
Fred

Y

Hello, may I ask if you prefer A & S over Henry Poole? Why? Thank you!

Anonymous

Thanks for your quick reply. Do you think it’s a good idea to let the Neapolitan tailors make pants separately, and ask Savile Row tailors to do the vest and jacket only? Would it cause any inconsistency in style?

Michael

Looking for the „third“ tailor – Vergallo?
Dear Simon, as I have found both a very structured tailor and Elia in Naples, I am indeed looking for something „in between“ and very business-like. After re-rading your posts on north-italian tailors and also visiting Livrano, I have the impression that their hous-style is indeed quite „squared“ with comparative short lapels, with is not too flattering for me. Sartoria Vergallo, however, seems to be an exception, judging from your commissions. Is this impression true and would you think this style is different enough from the napoletanian in order to be something notable different?

Michael

Dear Simon,

thank you! – but even with less of a house-style, would you count them as classical „third“ tailor or „tailor in the middle“ between Edward Sexton and Napoli? I am basically looking for something like Cifonelli I can afford….

As this post is by now quite old, maybe a follow-up question: Two years ago you named A&S, Cifonelli, Chittleborough, Caliendo, Liverano – would you name the same tailors 2018? Or has Museal Dembech made it up the list, given their PS-Award??

Danny

Any tailors you recommend on the east coast of the US? I’m an athletic build but shorter in height (5’8”) any “house styles” you suggest for this stature?

Chancellor

Hi Simon,

I was thinking back to this article today, and it got me thinking: how many shoemakers does one need/should ideally have? Would it be just one? Or would you argue for more than one?

Lindsay Eric McKee

I have been considering Cad & the Dandy for a first bespoke garment and I notice that they are members of the Saville Row Bespoke Association.
Can you throw any more light on this firm?

Suracherd Tangwiwat

Why do you pick Ciardi not Caliendo or MB not C&M for this time?

Suracherd

Hi Simon,
Thank you for your prompt reply and sorry for ask you one more question.Can you suggest me if i want to choose one Steven Hitchcock or Liverano?

Suracherd

Thank you