Lorenzi, Milan: The rebirth of a menswear jewel

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Monday, September 16th 2024
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One of my favourite shops in Milan used to be a little hole in the wall on Via Montenapoleone. Squeezed between big luxury boutiques, it was a real jewel of a place, tiny but perfect, selling equally tiny but perfect accessories - knives, cutlery, shaving paraphernalia, plus things you never knew you needed, like scissors designed to distribute a bunch of grapes. 

G Lorenzi was a hangover from a different age. It had been in the same location since 1929, when Giovanni Lorenzi (above) founded it as a specialist cutler and grinder. In those days the Italian aristocracy lived on the street and shopped for everyday items - there was a greengrocer on the street until 1970. 

In the seventies, Italian fashion became big and brands started to open there - Gianfranco Ferre, Armani and Versace were the first. Then things changed in the new millennium, when international fashion brands all decided they needed a branch in Milan’s now-famous Quadrilatero della Moda.

When I visited in the mid-noughties, G Lorenzi was a lovely outlier: high quality, family owned, and although it did sell into some department stores, with a unique experience. You’d walk in for a browse and find yourself selecting between 50 different types of nail scissor, ranging from €10 to €1000. Much like Santa Maria Novella in Florence, it was a place you always made time for.

Unfortunately G Lorenzi closed in 2014, and although I saw some mentions of it online, I largely lost touch. It was only recently when we were in Milan for Unica that I stumbled across the new, bigger store. 

I didn’t realise that the biggest change, though, was a hidden one: Lorenzi Milano now makes almost everything itself, and before made nothing at all.

“We used to be a trade business - my father and my uncle were wonderful at that,” says Mauro Lorenzi (below), who has led the relaunch. “They travelled the world, they sought the finest things, and then they sold to the locals. It was a great shop and I worked there for many years." (Mauro is in the top image, alongside his grandfather Giovanni.)

“But the world was changing. The internet meant everyone could now see everything at the click of a button, for less money than we could charge, and delivered in a day or two. The only way we could survive was to become a brand - and being a brand for me means making your own things.”

Mauro’s father and uncle disagreed, and the family decided to close the shop on Montenapoleone. Mauro had been running his own manufacturing side to the business since 2010 (called CEDES) however, and now started to grow this - making everything in Milan, only using natural materials, and at first selling to department stores. This had always been his passion - he was always more likely to be in the back of the shop, making alongside a partner, rather than out front.

Soon there was e-commerce, CEDES became Lorenzi Milano, and in 2019 the new version of the family shop was opened, on Piazza Filippo Meda. “The atmosphere in there should have a lot in common with the old shop,” Mauro says. “The attitude is the same and a lot of the products are the same. But it’s looking towards the future, rather than what we did in the past.”

When I interview Mauro, he is clearly pleased that this was the exact feeling I got. I recognised the name of the shop, it felt familiar when I went in, yet it was also clearly different. The lower-priced items, so easily undercut online, were gone, and the selection was more exotic and luxurious. But the service was excellent - everyone knew the products inside out and the family were clearly closely involved. It felt close-knit.

“We now make 80% of everything we sell,” says Mauro. “There are some things we can’t make - we can’t forge knives for example. But even when we make these with someone else, we think we improve it. Not just changing the handle or embellishing it, but improving little points of production.” That's the workshop pictured above.

My problem with stores like this is that everything is exquisite, but I need to find something I will use. I’ve spent so many years giving in to the allure of beautiful eccentricities like shagreen pill boxes, only for them to just sit on my desk, looking at me.  

Fortunately I don’t really have a good shaving kit - a razor handle, a badger-hair brush - and so I spent a good half hour in Lorenzi Milano looking at antler and bamboo options. Fortunately for my wallet, the combination I wanted wasn’t available, but it’s definitely what I would look to in the future. 

If anyone wants more information on the exotic materials, by the way, there’s a section on the Lorenzi Milano site setting out their policy, and something on each of the product pages with slightly more specifics, eg here on horn. 

Lorenzi Milano is a lot more widely sold that it used to be. It’s sold on Mr Porter, on Abask, and does collaborations with various designer brands. I wouldn’t say the shop in Milan is quite the quirky destination store it used to be either. 

But it is still worth a visit, and it must be highlighted how unusual it is to be making this level of product in-house, in somewhere like Milan. We’ll definitely be visiting the workshop next time we’re in the area. 

In the meantime, you can also shop online of course, in those multibrand stores or the Lorenzi Milano site, and I know both Connolly and Saman Amel are big fans, so there’s a small collection on display in their shops in London.

lorenzi-milano.com

Piazza F Meda 3, Milan

Note: There are other similar shops in Milan called Lorenzi that are no relation to this Lorenzi family, hence the use of the full term 'Lorenzi Milano' throughout to clarify. 

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Lindsay Mckee

Gloriously exquisite and unusual.
I love “exquisites”, unusual things.
It strangely reminds me of Dunhill and in Paris, Atelier du Bracelet Parisian, (ABP Concept).
I might be considering giving ABP a shout in the near future to remedy an ill fitting watch strap on my Bucherer watch with an unusual leather…. unless you know better Simon!
Yes, let’s see more “exquisites” in future days.
I love it!!!

Kent

Lorenzi’s stag shaving brush and bowl caught my eye for their practical design and affordable prices. They would be ideal presents for someone who loves hunting and shooting. Are there any British equivalents? I can only think of the famous barber shops in St James’s and Mayfair but there must be others, perhaps outside London.

Kent

Sheffield’s Edwin Jagger manufactures shaving and grooming products – https://www.edwinjagger.co.uk/en_gb/about-us. A shop on my local High Street has a good selection but I’ve not tried them and can’t comment on the quality..

Nick

Have a look at Simpsons shaving brushes, the handles may not be special at all, but the bristle is the best I have ever seen. They come in a wide range of bristle types as well. If you are looking for something that is actually a practical shaving brush this is where I would go

Lindsay McKee

Have you looked at the Executive Shaving Co in Glasgow?
My longest lasting and finest synthetic shaving brushes were bought here and still going strong…the best yet!! Do enquire with them first before you buy!…and avoid metal handles…if dropped ….damage will result…not to the brush….it has happened already!!!!!

Enrico

Executive Shaving closed 3 weeks ago.

Felix

Not British, but German manufacturer Muehle is also very good: https://www.muehle-shaving.com/en/Shop/Razors/Safety-Razors/

Lindsay McKee

Totally agree on that one.
Rex shaving company in America make the world’s finest DE Razor, albeit it doesn’t work for everyone, including myself.
I’m back on a humble Mach III razor!!!

Petronio

Is Lorenzi menswear ?

Patrick

Like you, I was delighted, on my last trip to Milan, to visit the new shop. In the late 1980s, when I lived in Milan, my walk home from work took me past Lorenzi almost every evening. While initially fearing I would find nothing corresponding to my meager budget, one evening I took the plunge and walked out with an absolutely perfectly shaped shaving bowl, which has followed me around the world for decades and which I still use today. Some years later, when I decided, on holiday in Milan, to grow a beard, I stopped into Lorenzi, where the salespeople still took the time – and had the knowledge – to offer genuine advice. I ended up shaving off that first excuse of a beard shortly after the holiday ended, but kept the trimmer, knowing that when I had the patience and the courage to grow a proper beard, I could rely on it. Not only am I eternally grateful for these splendidly functional objects, but also delight in the memories they bring back of one of the happiest times of my life.

James

Alas this illustrates the shame in a shop like this switching from everything under the sun at every price, to mere luxury. No treasured memories now being made and sold to kids starting out…

Brax

There are 2-3 other Lorenzi stores carrying similar products in Milan. Do you know how they are related to the store you highlighted?

Brax

“Cheaper” but not cheap. When I went last year, I bought a collaboration wine bottler opener in MoP that they did with a French blade maker for €350ish. And I bought a horn shaving brush made of silvertip badger at another one of the shops. In other words, don’t sleep on the other Lorenzi stores. They’re not uniformly high-end as the one in this article but are well worth a visit.

Robert

Lorenzi is a business I’ve been familiar with for the past twenty five years. In fact, I’ve visited the shop twice. It has some wonderfully unique and very well made specialty items. Unfortunately what Lorenzi does not offer is great value. The pricing here isn’t merely ridiculous. It’s more in the ridiculous ridiculous category. In a lot of their items, they use horn or bamboo and that seems to be an excuse to triple or even quadruple the price over what it should be. This is a shop in which it will be very tough for the average person to purchase anything. If your interested in the items on offer here, it will take to go through the entire website or better yet visit the shop if you can and search out the hidden gems. Certainly there are some but it will be a process to find them.

Edward

Beautiful but confusing history. I remember very well the “old” G.Lorenzi. It was always in my agenda when visiting Milan as many other wonderful places (Cova, Marchesi, Camparino and, of course, one of my tailors) I said confusing because, apparently, the business continues like a corner in the Larusmiani Boutique who was his neighbour. Who also sells beautiful items that were the ones found in the old G. Lorenzi business. Dear Simon, do you have more information about the story behind the Larusmiani corner and the new G.Lorenzi?

Edward
Thank you very much, Simon. It seems to be a random story like that of the Caraceni surname. Same roots, different branches.
Luke

Things I never knew I wanted: a springbok horn shaving brush…

Amon

Funny enough, I was in Milan the first time in my life this summer and was struck by all the beautiful objects I saw in the Lorenzi Shopwindow. At the same time I wondered, why I have never heard of this beautiful brand. Thanks for sharing the insight on it’s rich history! Will definitely visit the store again next time I’m in Milan

Thomas Mastronardi

I am certain that I have every item I purchased at Lorenzi over the course of many years; knives, walking sticks, shaving gear, nearly everything that has traveled the world ensconced in my Dopp kit, and yes, the odd, exquisite bit of useless beauty I was simply unable to resist (such as the several kangaroo leather cords featuring, on one end, a neat metal belt clip to which one attached, at the other end, a pocket knife, allowing it to be retrieved from the depths of your trouser pocket without effort). Knowing that it has risen again is a true joy. I can hardly wait to visit when next I’m in Milan. Toys for big boys. Bravo. Bravo. Bravo.

Peter Hall

Simon. Not sure if you have ever covered this before, but I think a piece on ‘luxuriously shaving’ would be interesting.

Thomas Mastronardi

The sad demise of service journalism.

Joey R

I had been to the old store and was delighted by the new store this year when I visited. They make an excellent traveling shoe care kit, including a beautiful traveling shoe horn within. I also got the bamboo shoe horn for home which I am in love with, and am eyeing a wine bottle holder next! I can’t get enough of their stuff.

Monsieur Kharthoum

A true connoisseur’s brand! The sheer variety of items is astonishing, everything made to highest standars with fine materials. I have several items from G. Lorenzi, Cedes Milano and now Lorenzi Milano, the quality is undeniably there. You pay for exclusivity and absolute craftmanship!
I have a beautiful shoe care travel kit in full brown leather and exotic wood shoe brushes, i can tell you that the lambskin used is by far the softest in the world, there is no comparison!
This is a niche brand and must be treasured by those who appreciate quality menswear accessories.
Great article.

Luigi Azzariti

I think the shop of the same name (run by the cousins) in Corso di Porta Romana (https://lorenzi-milano.com) also deserves a visit, more intimate and discreet, but of even higher quality and certainly of greater grace

Luigi Azzariti