The Suede Overshirt made-to-order programme

Friday, October 11th 2024
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The Suede Overshirt in tobacco has recently been restocked on PS, having sold out quickly back in the spring. But we’re also going to try a made-to-order programme, as the makers Rifugio are happy to make in small numbers. 

The idea is that readers will be able to pick the size they want, but then specify the sleeve length and body length. This gets round the biggest issue with RTW sizing, of assuming that a person with a smaller chest is shorter, and one with a larger chest is necessarily taller. 

We’re only offering these two options because we want to make it simple enough for people to be able to order remotely, and we want to keep the costs down. Once you start adding options for waist, shoulders etc, the factory has to make a bespoke pattern and the price goes up steeply.

A lot of readers already know their size in the overshirts, because it’s the same as the popular Linen Overshirts. But during the upcoming pop-ups in New York and London we'll be bring a size run of the Suede Overshirts, so everyone can try them and make sure. We are also happy to give advice on how much longer the sleeve and body should be. 

Made-to-order will also be available remotely, via email with Lucas on the support team - [email protected].

We are offering four colours in the overshirt, which we have made up into samples for people to try. I thought it was important to pay to do this because, again for a pretty expensive product, we didn’t want decisions to be made off just a swatch. 

The four colours are shown above, and we will later add images of finished shirts. The shirts themselves will be available in the pop-up to see. (Pictured below: Manish and myself trying to whittle down the range to just four.)

The colours are, from top to bottom: 

  • Navy (dark, a classic menswear navy)
  • Sand (not as pale as the swatch above suggests - look at the top image in this post)
  • Dark brown (my favourite)
  • Tobacco (a very muted shade, very versatile - the original colour here)

Delivery of the overshirts will be in February next year, the idea being that they will be available for spring onwards. The price is £1860 plus VAT, a 20% uplift on RTW. 

I know this is an expensive product, but the only thing I can say is that this is what it costs. If you want the finest suede in the world, it’s going to cost around this - the comparative products are a Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Brioni or Loro Piana, whose prices are higher. I have a Purple Label overshirt and love it, but I prefer the design of ours and it’s better value for money in that sense. 

Hopefully this is something readers can appreciate when they see the shirt in person. It really is, as one friend put it, ‘a spenny product that really looks a spenny product’. 

I’ll be interested to see how the pre-order goes too. It’s something we’ve done in recent years for autumn products - the Donegal coats, the cashmere knits - but this is the first one for spring. Pre-orders have proved to be an effective way to offer greater range: more sizes, old products, unusual colours. But it’s not possible to do with all makers (for some the minimums are too high) and not everyone wants to wait that long. We'll add more options in the future where we can, if the reaction is good.

On the subject of pre-orders, please do note that these are always non-refundable and non-exchangeable. We’re specifically ordering a single piece that we wouldn’t buy otherwise, so it can’t just be placed back into stock. 

I think people understand this point for different colours, but don’t always for the same colour as something in stock. We still have to make these non-exchangeable, because otherwise the amount we buy would be unbalanced and we’d end up with lots unsold in different sizes. 

In fact, perhaps we should call this something else in the future to make it clearer - special orders or something. Let me know what you think.

There’s a full description of the Suede Overshirt and how it was designed on the launch article. As with everything we do, if you want to understand it and would like to appreciate it, that’s the place to go.

But here’s a brief summary, followed by one for the pre-order process.

The Suede Overshirt:

  • An outer layer that can be worn over a T-shirt or a sweater
  • Larger chest pockets than most, plus an internal patch pocket
  • Hip pockets that are concealed in the seam, maintaining the look of a shirt
  • Made in Naples by Rifugio, one of the best in the world
  • Made from the finest suede, unlined, with horn buttons
  • Same pattern and sizing as the existing Linen Overshirt
  • Tobacco colour works with jeans and tailored trousers, warm and cold colours

On the last point, in the launch article I showed the tobacco with many things, but not with black. The images here were specifically included to show how good it looks with black and white (being a more muted shade).

The Pre-Order:

  • Cost £1860 plus VAT
  • Delivery in February 2025, ready for spring
  • Available in the pop-ups, and online until end of November
  • For online orders, email Lucas at [email protected]
  • Four colours available: tobacco, sand, navy, dark brown (see images)
  • Six sizes available: XS to XXL (see size chart below)
  • Body length and sleeve length to order, please specify cm
  • All orders are non-refundable and non-exchangeable

 

Chest Shoulders Back length Sleeve
X-small 106  46  74.5  59
Small 112 48 76 61
Medium 117 50 78 63
Large 123 52 79.5 65
X-large 129 54 81 67
XX-large  135  56  82.5  69

 

As always it's also useful to compare the measurements of the size chart to an item you already own. Simon is six foot (183cm) with a 39 inch (99cm) chest, a 34 inch (86cm) waist and weighs 12.5 stone (79kg). He is wearing a medium.

Below, three outfits with the overshirt showing its range by season and formality: knitwear and jeans, shirt and high-twist trousers, T-shirt and linen.

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Peter

I’m deliberating between this and a suede blouson, probably your reversible model, for a do-everything smart-casual piece. If you could only have one, which would you consider the most useful across a range of seasons and formalities do you think? Many thanks

Richard

Simon could you care to elaborate on why you think the blouson would be more versatile?
The only point of consideration for me is the collar as I’m beginning to think that shirt-style collars on jackets (is this the correct term?) are more flattering on me than stand up, funnel-style collars. I’d be curious on your thoughts on that too, as I know you’ve discussed finding items that are more flattering to your neck.
Finally, I would definitely be interested if MTO options were provided for other PS items, as I often find items that fit me are too long for my preference, which MTO would mitigate.

Peter

Thanks, Simon. Which colour might you go for yourself for optimum smart-casual versatility?

Richard

Thank you Simon.
I assume the shirt collar is the slightly less sporty/casual option?

Robert M

Great idea! I won’t be ordering this one as I generally don’t buy leather goods other than shoes, but I’d be very interested in the MTO (with length and sleeve adjustments) for your other products – as many as you can offer!

Bob

Add a third as someone who’s waist chest measurements dont match their height

J

Also very interested in MTO with length and sleeve adjustment.

Andrew

Hi Simon, Is the suede overshoirt sim8lar style and fit to the linen overshirt?

Nick

Hi Simon, have you thought about the overshirt in tweed? Or similarly winter fabric

Max

i could also imagine that moleskin would work nice, it would also reduce the price of the item. but i have to admit that there are sure endless possible variants.
for me i like the small range permanentstyle offers. and the suede fits the PS style perfectly! 🙂

Markus S

Luca Avitabile offers MTO with moleskin (navy).

Luke

I’ve been looking for exactly this item – a winter version of the navy linen PS overshirt that I’ve worn constantly all summer.

Tried a CPO from Buzz Rickson, nice fit and style, but anchors on the buttons and scratchy fabric put me off and I sent it back. I used to have a merino shirt from Grenfell, but they don’t seem to do it anymore, and it lacked the hidden pockets at the hip that I love about the PS one.

A dark navy merino wool, sort of a really heavy flannel/felt/twill, but beautifully soft (I have a Boglioli K-Jacket in the perfect fabric) would be perfect.

Jasper Smit

Very nicely shows how to wear it with different colour’s. I love it bit since it rains a lot where I live it is not going to get a lot of wear. Just like my suede bomber jacket.. But again, cool demonstration how to wear it differently. Cheers.

Jasper Smit

Oh great, thanks very much.

Jonathan

Hi Simon, thanks for sharing the video. Would you recommend similar care for the PS nubuck tote? (Suede protectant, et al.)?

John G

Hi Simon. I’m just curious. When dealing with very expensive materials such as this, why don’t makers price the larger sizes more than the smaller sizes? More material is most cost for the maker, and if material cost is a big component of total costs this would seem to make sense. For most products, if I buy a larger size of something it costs more, but this is almost never the case with clothing. I’m an XL, so this would not do me any favors, but still.

CJ

Pleased you’ve asked this question as I’ve always thought the same but Simon’s response makes perfect sense.

RTK

Have you ever had this garment cleaned? Il so what method was used and how did the suede shirt look after cleaning?

Mbk

Simon, can you share where that specialist dry cleaner was?

Anonymous

Simon any update re possibly doing a ready to wear version of the overshirt in linen in ecru/very light beige/cream? I think this would sell brilliantly for the summer months. A timeless and highly versatile colour.

Chancellor

I love this made-to-order approach as I normally struggle with sleeves that are too short for my torso circumference.
Unfortunately, having previously bought the reversible Valstarino in navy and then the reversible bomber in brown, I don’t think I have a gap in the wardrobe large enough to justify adding this, particularly at the price (for something that won’t get very frequent wear). Had this been the first suede jacket offering, I’d have been all over it.

Rob

This looks wonderful. I wear my overshirt so much that I know this would be a hit. Genuinely I would expect something like this to “see me out”, so the price per wear would be broadly acceptable.
But as you say it is ‘spenny. It would likely take me a year or two to save up. So I wonder whether this is a one off or may conceivably be repeated in the future?

Dave

Hi Simon, lovely options. The dark brown swatch looks nearly black — I will be interested to see how it looks made into a jacket, and perhaps in different lighting. Is the dark brown the same as either the “Choco Dark” or “Caffe” swatches pictured on the desk with the notepad?

Ben

Beautiful suede overshirt! I have an almost identical one from Cucinelli, the difference being they used blonde corozo buttons, and it has a cashmere/silk knit lining.

I don’t get to wear it often enough here in Oregon, as the weather which is cool enough to wear it in is often accompanied by rain. Can you wear a suede overshirt like this in the rain? I have protective spray for it, but haven’t dared risk it in even a drizzle.

Mara M.

Could this overshirt be made with the shirt buttons on the left (women’s version)? Thank you.

MBB355

If the dark brown is your favorite, why offer tobacco as the RTW version? Harder to find in the marketplace?

Sam

Will the dark brown be available in RTW?

See you tomorrow!

Peter

Hello Simon, can the pocket style be altered to not have button holes and have a more rectangular flap with rounded corners? Also, the back seam, can it be one center seam versus two seams? Rifugio has a similar offering “The Iconic overshirt”. Any feedback would be be greatly appreciated.

Dan

If you could only have one suede piece of outerwear, would it be the overshirt or the reversible bomber? And in which color?

David

Simon,
Have you got a photo of the Dark Brown now it’s made up ?

David

Is it the same dark brown as the Connelly cognac or is it more like the Ralph Laurent Purple label ?
It’s difficult to make a decision without a photo.