Simon’s sizing advice: Summer

Friday, April 25th 2025
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The winter version we did of this article - published back in November - was popular and has proved useful in conversations with readers since. So here’s the summer equivalent: between the two of them all PS products should be covered, and the two will be combined on the shop website later too. 

The idea is to answer the main questions readers have about sizing - particularly because we end up answering the same questions repeatedly during the pop-up shops. The advice is based off what I wear, but also scaled up and down based on what we see on readers. 

For reference, I am six foot (183cm) tall, with a 39-inch (99cm) chest and am relatively slim (34 inch/86cm waist). 

Finest knitwear: Dartmoor, Finest Crewneck, Finest Polo

Size I take: Medium

We currently have three products made from superfine merino. The collared long-sleeve knit is called the Dartmoor after an old Smedley collaboration. The crewneck is just called the Finest Crewneck and the polo shirt is called the Finest Polo. They’re referred to as the ‘finest’ because they use the finest merino and finest make anywhere

All three used to be quite slim, but we relaxed them two years ago, adding 2cm in the waist. I’d now describe it as a classic, comfortable fit. But it’s not large - I’m slimmer than most for my chest size, and the body is perfect on me. 

All three have the same body fit and I am a solid medium - I wouldn’t want to size up or down. The Dartmoor has the advantage of a double cuff, which means it can be adjusted slightly for longer or shorter arms. That's the Finest Polo above, in cream, worn with a silk Pirozzi jacket

Hand-framed cotton sweater

Size I take: Medium

The hand-framed cotton sweaters we make with Speciale fit similarly to our other knitwear (summarised in the winter version of this article) but they grow a little, as cotton tends to do. For this reason I wear a medium, rather than the large I now usually wear in the cashmere crewneck

If in doubt - only if between sizes or unsure - I would advise readers to size down for that reason. Note also that the neck is deliberately small, as we like a high collar. This will feel tight when first tried on, but will relax a little as needed - and there’s nothing worse than a sloppy cotton collar. 

Overshirts: Linen and Suede

Size I take: Medium and Large

The Linen Overshirt is the most popular thing we do for summer, it’s a comfortable fit and I’m a solid medium. However, it’s important to note that there is some shrinkage with the linen if machine washed. So if you like the fit as it is, best to dry clean when needed. (I rarely do.) 

The Suede Overshirt made by Rifugio in Naples is made to the same specifications and size as the linen. Like the shirts, we do this even when there are different manufacturers, to keep sizing easier. However, if you wear the suede overshirt over knitwear at all, I would recommend sizing up. I do this more these days and so would take a large in that going forward. 

Linen Harrington

Size I take: Medium

The Linen Harrington jacket is a blouson - it’s designed to fit close in the waist, so there’s lots of flattering size and freedom of movement in the chest. When you try to zip it up it should be tight - you should need to pull on the elastic to get it to fasten. Then it should ride up onto your hips, and stay there. Let the top ‘blouse’ out. 

I’m a solid medium again. (It’s worth repeating, as some variation is coming soon.)

T-shirts: Heavy tapered tee and Undershirt

Size I take: Large and Medium

The Japanese T-shirts we do are ‘tapered’ only in the sense that all regular T-shirts are tapered (the hips are a little narrower than the chest) but most Japanese circular knitted tees are not. We wanted the quality of the latter but the fit of the former, so you get the heavy quality but a regular fit. 

I could wear a medium or a large in those, and in the launch post I showed the difference between the two. I wear a large (above) more often, as I like that roomier fit in a T-shirt more, and that’s what I’d recommend to people generally. But a medium is fine too, just a closer fit.

In the undershirts I am a medium, but note that these deliberately fit a little snug (as they’re meant to be mostly an undershirt) and then give a little when needed, making them super-comfortable. They are also deliberately long, so they stay tucked in. 

Shorts

Size I take: Large (50)

I find it interesting that the PS Shorts are the piece that has changed most in style over the years, particularly in regards to the length. My style has changed a little too, in that I prefer a slightly looser fit and wider leg now, and so would wear a 50 (large) rather than 48 (medium, above). 

However, as readers will be bored of hearing by now, I have quite a large bum compared to my waist size, so I always have to compromise on one or the other. In the past I would have put up with a closer fit on the seat. Today I get the right fit there and take in the waist if I need to. 

(It’s also not possible to let out the waist on garment-washed clothes, as it leaves a mark.)

Images: Taken from articles on the clothes mentioned, except those of the tobacco-suede overshirt (above) and the cream Finest Polo (below). Any questions on them, please let me know. 

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53 Comments
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Tristan

As for the linen overshirt, I am 91cm chest and slim person, would recommand S to others, fits like an oversized 44 and 0 concern for shrinkage as it feels comfortable with plenty of room.

I think the summer silhouette is also by essence more elegant with volume, and personnaly l feel way more comfortable at 30+°C when my clothes are not tight.

(I am by the way very glad to finally be able to contribute financially to the PS perennity, and extremely pleased with the new dark olive which is so versatile. Hope Japan was great)

Have a nice week end
Tristan

Markus S

Hi Simon,

This could be helpful for readers with a similar build to me. I am 175 cm tall, weigh 70 kg, have a waist circumference of 80 cm, a flat stomach and rather narrow shoulders (my weight comes mainly from my leg muscles – I do a lot of mountain biking, hiking and skiing). I like to wear my clothes moderately slim in shirts, polos, and more relaxed in e.g. the Friday polo or your t-shirts.

I have purchased several of your products: Oxford shirts, t-shirts, the Chambray shirt, shorts, the finest Polo and the Friday Polo. I believe all in their latest version (needless to say a love the quality of all of them).

My size is SMALL for all of these and I am lucky that small fits me very well (I am not between sizes).

howie

hi simon: thanks for the sizing info as your latest column was especially timely in my case. Last fall at the new york pop-up, you tweeked the fit of the rifugio blue suede overshirt I tried on and it fits perfectly (infinitely better than the largest version I originally bought directly from the PS web site). I’d love to buy another in the more traditional brown suede color; will there be an opportunity to do so? many thanks.

Henry M

Hi Simon, any idea when shorts will be restocked?
Thanks,

Kent

Will the shorts have same sizing as before? I am a size 52 and the front rise (24cm/9.6 inces) seems a bit low. I’m guessing that they sit on the hips rather than around the waist. My preference is for a mid to high rise.

Alexander

Hello Simon. Do you wear that style of hat, or was it more to give a ‘summer vibe’ to the pictures?

Alexander

Please accept my apologies. There was absolutely no intention to be rude. My question was probably driven by my own inadequacies in that I could never pull off such a look. Have a great weekend.

Kevin

Ha ha. Nothing wrong with carrying a hat around as an accessory. If you can have a decorative lapel buttonhole then you can have a hand-hat. Maybe practicing flipping it onto your head when nobody is looking.

Henry

Hi Simon, what are dark brown trousers you are wearing with Dupioni jacket? Thx Henry

John

Hi Simon,

If planning to machine wash the linen overshirt, do you recommend going up a size? Medium fits me well, so would you recommend getting it in large?

Thanks

John

Has the finest polo been lengthened in the body as well, compared to its prior iteration, besides being widened by 2cm in the waist?

Lucas Nicholson

Hi Guys had some requests for my sizing over the weekend so see below:
For reference I’m 6:4 (195cm)
Chest measures 46.5 inches
Waist measures 39 inches
I wear
Shirting (including Friday polo) – XXL (casually)
Cotton crewneck – XXL
Linen Overshirt – XL
Suede Overshirt – XXL
Cashmere crewneck – XXL
Cashmere Rugby – XXXL
Donegal Overcoat and English tweed – XXL
Finest knitwear – XXL
Tapered T-shirt – XL but could wear an XXL for a looser fit
Undershirt – XL
Currently don’t fit in the shorts – XXXL coming next year!

TAC

This is super helpful – I’m about an inch shorter with almost the same chest measurement.
I’m surprised by the sizing on the linen overshirt – is there a reason you sized down in linen but not in suede?

Lucas Nicholson

Hey, I’m glad this is helpful for you! It was mainly two things, the linen is a bit more forgiving in terms of the cloth has some movement in it. Secondly it was how I was planning on wearing it, the linen I just wear over a tshirt or shirt but the sued I wanted to be able to wear a light knit underneath so I needed the additional room.

Alexander

I find that my grey PS t-shirts in Medium are slightly slimmer than my first run white ones. The white ones still have some drape around my 41 inch chest, but the grey ones are rather tight there. I like both looks, but if I could, I would swap the grey Medium shirts for ones in Large. It must have something to do with the different pliability of the fabrics. (I have two t-shirts of both colours each, and the difference in fit is true for all of them.)

Drake

The overshirts in medium are already sold out in most colors …Simon, may I suggest stocking more next year?

SamS

You do niche retail. You sell out. That’s the definition of winning.

Marcus

I think your overshirts look great. This is a bit off topic, but I have a question about linen. I live in Texas where temperatures are regularly 80-90+ degrees (27-32+) in the fall. Linen is definitely appropriate from a temperature perspective, but do you think linen is an appropriate fall fabric?

Mark

Simon, would you be able to share the measurement of your shoulder width-bone to bone?

Edwin Rothengatter-Reinders

Simon, would it be possible to get hip measurements on the shorts for the shorts, this would help on deciding which size to get (or to opt for the larger size to take in the waist for example)

Edwin Rothengatter-Reinders

Cheers Simon!

Are these supposed to be worn on the hips or on the hip bone (looking at the rise). I think I’m going to be fine with the 52 but the 54 would be better if worn on the hips themselves.

Have a great 5th the may!

Edwin Rothengatter-Reinders

Well might order both sizes then. Will there be alot of stock? I intend to purchase all 3 colors.

Michael

Hi Simon. I notice in the photo of the linen Harrington that you have the cuff undone and folded back. Is that because the sleeve is too long on you (which I guess is unlikely) or to make it cooler/more summery? (I asm because I have short arms and so always have to fold knitwear sleeves back/double them, but don\’t do it with jackets.)
Thanks

Rob

It is great to see you stocking items in size XXL. I was particularly pleased to see that’s the case for the Friday Polo. I just missed out – hopefully there’s a restock at some point – but would hope that they sold so quickly will give you confidence to stock XXL sizes in the future.
Also thank you to Lucas for taking time to provide his measurements/sizes. That is good for me as I fall into the “if it fits Lucas it will likely fit me” camp.

David Spelman

If at the London pop-up there was a not-yet–announced lightweight summer shirt made with an overlooked fiber, would that be available as a finished shirt only or also in cut lengths of cloth? And when will it be available in either case? Theoretically, of course.

Ngoc-Huong Nguyen

So I noticed the dartmoor sweater size matrix is totally different from the ramie shirt and selvedge chambray – part of it is that different things are measured, but the main thing is that the matrix is “pivoted” totally opposite: the sizes are the columns and the body dimensions are the rows whereas for the shirts it’s the opposite. I took the time to “pivot” the table so it matches to make it easier if you’re a nerd like me to compare sizes. Looking over things it looks like having the sizes be the columns is more popular overall, but if you were like me and you owned some finest polos and dartmoors, but wanted to buy a ramie or some other shirt, then I hope you find this helpful (I also reorderd the dimensions to match up with the shirts)

Chest Bottom width Sleeve length Body length Neck width

XS 50cm 41 62 63 14

Small 52 43 63 65 15

Medium 54 45 64 67 15

Large 56 47 65 69 16

X-Large 60 49 66 71 16

XX-Large62 51 67 73 17

Joe P

Hi Simon, can I ask how the size large linen Harrington fits your frame? I tend to be somewhere between medium and large in PS sizes. I’m a touch shorter than you but also a touch less slim (40.5 chest, 35 waist). I’ve got several tapered tees from launch time in medium, which I still wear happily – but will get large now if and when I buy more. I recently bought a yellow Oxford in large; after a few washes it fits great: definitely relaxed but not over the top. I find the medium too slim.

Conscious that the jacket should fit tight around the waist but based on measurements and other things in my wardrobe, think a 5/large might work better for me.

I suppose I’m just wondering if the decision on size is a personal thing, as with other things mentioned above, or whether the style of the jacket makes it less of a subjective thing – if that makes sense!

Luke

You mentioned liking the looser fit of the t-shirt in L. Would you generally go for a M when you are wearing it under outerwear (like the line overshirt, harrington etc.) rather than on its own?

Daniel

Hi Simon,
Would you still take a Medium in the Finest Polo and Friday Polo?