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We’re almost there with the camel polo coat. Since I covered it last we’ve had a second basted fitting, where it was ripped apart again and re-cut. Then it went away to be made-up and today I had the final fitting – all complete save buttons and cuffs.

A coat is not usually cut to fit snugly over just a shirt, so at every stage we have taken in the waist a little. At this stage we took in an inch more, but I think that is enough – any more and it would look too shaped, rather effeminate. In the picture you see here I am wearing just a shirt underneath, and it fits quite snugly on the waist now (with the pleat in the back at its smallest setting). Obviously that means the shoulders are a tiny bit big, but nothing you can do about that – you can’t alter the shoulders every time you take your jacket off.

The pleat that we planned all the way up the back has been altered slightly (search this site for Coat Project to see all the history). Rather than starting at the neck, it now starts three inches above the waist. We decided that a full-length pleat sacrificed too much control over the fit of the back. This way there is still a lot of room to alter the lower back, waist and hips but the top of the coat will retain a consistent shape.

At the initial design stage I was afraid the raised seam, double breast and patch pockets would look too busy. But the raised seam is very subtle, neat, possibly even smart. (I asked that the raised seam be added to the welt of the patch pocket on the final coat as well.)

I am also particularly pleased with how the split sleeve worked out – lining up the shoulder seam with this is not easy, but looks very sharp.

And I lowered the button stance slightly – the three buttons can be seen marked on here in chalk. This was to balance with the length of the coat. You can also see a chalk mark where I have requested the sleeves to be shortened slightly. Coat sleeves should completely cover jacket sleeves and shirtsleeves, but then I like my jacket sleeves short anyway.

In the picture you can also see that the overlap of the coat partly covers one of the patch pockets. This is because we extended the overlap as part of the extra waisting; that pocket will be moved further round.

Finally, you will notice from the below pic that the patch pocket is sloped outwards towards the bottom. I assumed this was a sporting detail to accommodate gun shells etc, but apparently it is so that the two edges of the pocket are parallel to the front edge of the coat and the side seam. As the coat is gently flared, so too are the pockets… Apparently all flaps on suit jackets should be sloped in a similar manner, they are just too short to notice.

Hopefully final coat next Tuesday!

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Laurence John

excellent. very 30s-40s looking.

Coşkun Hürsel

It looks very smart and snugly fit. Great job!

I have a question: I have recently bought a double breasted 100% cashmere coat. It fits me well, but the only problem is that I find the sleeves to be a bit on the short side. I am not used to wearing formal overcoats. I would usually wear a 3/4 coat (or what could be called as a “car coat”) whenever I wore a suit, and these shorter coats suited well if worn without a jacket. I suppose my cashmere coat was designed to be worn with a suit, and the sleeves are cut in a way that would allow the jacket’s sleeves to appear from underneath. Am I correct in this, or are the coat’s sleeves simply too short for my arms?

nj j

Simon how much is this costing?

SMII

Very nice. Interesting that fittings were conducted without wearing a coat.

I recently had one done in Scottish Camel hair.A kind of Chesterfield but long and in the Victorian style. I bought the material from a mill in Scotland then had it made up in Lecce.
Bit unusual.Its in Navy Blue.
I think Camel hair is the best for coats.Cashmere is too hot these days and too fragile for a coat.This coat is quite nice.Very 30’s

Sputnik

Oohh liking the waist silhouette…nice job…

Arctic Penguin

The raised seam is a particularly nice touch.. I may have to borrow that detail on my next coat…

superchick

no it doesnt as I had it dropping wide from below the armpits.now im interested in a british warm

S

Simon,

Love the coat and had GB make me a very similar one. I went with no flaps over the hip pockets, is this considered less “correct”? I just thought it looked a little less “busy”, and as I often put my hands in the pockets, I don’t want to be bothered by having to put the flaps “back in place” every time. Did I make a style faux paus?

Thanks,
S

stephen

Hello Simon, thank you for this…coats, especially overcoats often get forgotten when considering the contents of a good wardrobe. The finished article looks superb. I would like you thoughts re. camel vs. something like Elysian wool…is it still available, if so does the additional weight, disadvatage it when compared to Camel hair. With thanks. Stephen.

stephen

Hello Simon, I think this response might belong to the story re. your C &M suit and tie (beautiful cut and fit!)..kind regards Stephen.

Ted

Hi Simon,

Wondering if you have some photos of how the finished polo coat came out. I am considering getting my first bespoke overcoat made and am torn between a navy guard coat and a camel polo. I love the look of the polo coat, and do work in an office that is more business casual than formal. As such, I feel the camel polo to be a better choice. I have already a black OTR topcoat.

Having now purchased a few bespoke overcoats, what say you? Navy guard coat, or camel polo?

Ted

PS. Re a camel polo coat, what is your take on a flapped breast pocket vs a welted or none at all? Likewise full vs half belt, and pleated vent vs single? Thank you!