Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these re...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these re...

How to - Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming week...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming week...

Black tie - JacketsSeptember 20th 2017

Graham Browne Christmas sale 2016

December 20th 2016

As is traditional, Graham Browne are having a sale between Christmas and New Year - and just as traditional is my writing to tell readers about it. The sale will run on the 28th, 29th and 30th of December, and offer su...

Graham Browne Christmas sale 2016

As is traditional, Graham Browne are having a sale between Christmas and New Year - and just as traditional is my writing to tell readers about it. The sale will run on the 28th, 29th and 30th of December, and offer su...

December 20th 2016

The tailors I have known

August 30th 2016

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...

The tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...

TailorsAugust 30th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

April 29th 2016

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the differen...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the differen...

Fit - How toApril 29th 2016

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 12th 2015

The casual waistcoat: preppy herringbone

October 5th 2015

Over the years I’ve had a few casual waistcoats made. What makes them casual? Well primarily cloth, ideally something with a pronounced texture and perhaps a chunky pattern – in this case, a tan/black herr...

The casual waistcoat: preppy herringbone

Over the years I’ve had a few casual waistcoats made. What makes them casual? Well primarily cloth, ideally something with a pronounced texture and perhaps a chunky pattern – in this case, a tan/black herr...

TailoringOctober 5th 2015

A newcomer to quality

September 1st 2014

It’s been so long since I experienced bespoke clothing for the first time, or indeed most of the luxury, craft-based things I write about, that I find it interesting when friends do so for the first time. Each fi...

A newcomer to quality

It’s been so long since I experienced bespoke clothing for the first time, or indeed most of the luxury, craft-based things I write about, that I find it interesting when friends do so for the first time. Each fi...

AccessoriesSeptember 1st 2014

Why most tailors don’t like clothes

March 11th 2013

Quite a lot of tailors and cutters don’t wear jackets, even waistcoats during the day. Certainly if they are hidden away from the eyes of customers, they quickly dress down. Partly this is because such work is diff...

Why most tailors don’t like clothes

Quite a lot of tailors and cutters don’t wear jackets, even waistcoats during the day. Certainly if they are hidden away from the eyes of customers, they quickly dress down. Partly this is because such work is diff...

StyleMarch 11th 2013

Send in your Permanent Style Tweed pics!

November 9th 2012

I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made...

Send in your Permanent Style Tweed pics!

I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made...

November 9th 2012

Reader question: Side straps and chinos

September 5th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 424 2417 Euromoney PLC 20 4 2968 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Incotex trousers Dear Simon, I have a couple of questions on trousers which I haven’t seen you address. First, you s...

Reader question: Side straps and chinos

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 424 2417 Euromoney PLC 20 4 2968 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Incotex trousers Dear Simon, I have a couple of questions on trousers which I haven’t seen you address. First, you s...

Reader questions - TailoringSeptember 5th 2012

Reader question: What should I buy in London?

July 6th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 479 2735 Euromoney PLC 22 5 3358 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false A typical ensemble at Trunk Clothiers Dear Simon, My name is David and I have been a fan of your work for quite a while no...

Reader question: What should I buy in London?

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 479 2735 Euromoney PLC 22 5 3358 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false A typical ensemble at Trunk Clothiers Dear Simon, My name is David and I have been a fan of your work for quite a while no...

Casual wear - Reader questionsJuly 6th 2012

Panta clothing: new trousers and site

July 2nd 2012

Trousers are easier to tailor than a jacket. They’re not straightforward, as everyone’s waist to seat ratio varies, but the problems are at least largely in two dimensions. Because trousers are simpler, you c...

Panta clothing: new trousers and site

Trousers are easier to tailor than a jacket. They’re not straightforward, as everyone’s waist to seat ratio varies, but the problems are at least largely in two dimensions. Because trousers are simpler, you c...

TailoringJuly 2nd 2012

Graham Browne in New York: fittings

May 21st 2012

Three fittings awaiting a customer Last week in New York it was a real pleasure to meet the five men who came for appointments with Graham Browne. They varied from the established customer (there to try on a tweed jacket...

Graham Browne in New York: fittings

Three fittings awaiting a customer Last week in New York it was a real pleasure to meet the five men who came for appointments with Graham Browne. They varied from the established customer (there to try on a tweed jacket...

TailorsMay 21st 2012

Graham Browne: Neapolitan lining

February 24th 2012

As mentioned in a previous post on this jacket, Graham Browne used the inspiration of my Rubinacci jacket to work on an alternative construction to the half-lined jacket. The same cloth (Harrison’s Moonbeam) is use...

Graham Browne: Neapolitan lining

As mentioned in a previous post on this jacket, Graham Browne used the inspiration of my Rubinacci jacket to work on an alternative construction to the half-lined jacket. The same cloth (Harrison’s Moonbeam) is use...

TailorsFebruary 24th 2012

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

January 11th 2012

An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very w...

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very w...

StyleJanuary 11th 2012

Suit, Shirt, Tie 1: Pink and green

August 24th 2011

One of my favourite colour combinations is pink and green. The pink here is pale, too pale perhaps to be portrayed accurately in the photo, but it provides a subtle field of colour for green to play on. The green tie, fr...

Suit, Shirt, Tie 1: Pink and green

One of my favourite colour combinations is pink and green. The pink here is pale, too pale perhaps to be portrayed accurately in the photo, but it provides a subtle field of colour for green to play on. The green tie, fr...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesAugust 24th 2011

The modern man needs a good blazer

August 17th 2011

Men wear fewer suits today, as we all know. But they retain the need for a jacket, if only to appear smart or professional. Two of my friends, a doctor and a teacher, are particular examples. Their jobs do not require th...

The modern man needs a good blazer

Men wear fewer suits today, as we all know. But they retain the need for a jacket, if only to appear smart or professional. Two of my friends, a doctor and a teacher, are particular examples. Their jobs do not require th...

Style - TailoringAugust 17th 2011

Different ways to pad the chest of a suit

July 13th 2011

A reader commented that the way he spots a good bespoke suit is to look under the lapel and look for the little pinpricks that betray hand padding. This does indeed show where the tailor has come through the suit cloth a...

Different ways to pad the chest of a suit

A reader commented that the way he spots a good bespoke suit is to look under the lapel and look for the little pinpricks that betray hand padding. This does indeed show where the tailor has come through the suit cloth a...

Suits - TailoringJuly 13th 2011

Choppin & Lodge cotton suit

July 1st 2011

A cotton suit, or at least jacket, should be a staple of casual summer wear. Cotton is often derided by fans of bespoke because it has no drape and wears out quicker than other fabrics. But the issue of drape – how...

Choppin & Lodge cotton suit

A cotton suit, or at least jacket, should be a staple of casual summer wear. Cotton is often derided by fans of bespoke because it has no drape and wears out quicker than other fabrics. But the issue of drape – how...

Suits - TailoringJuly 1st 2011

Altering the neck of a suit

January 17th 2011

This is an alteration to an old flannel suit, pinching in and raising the neck of the jacket slightly to correct a collar that currently stands a half inch away from my neck. This, of course, is one of the last alteratio...

Altering the neck of a suit

This is an alteration to an old flannel suit, pinching in and raising the neck of the jacket slightly to correct a collar that currently stands a half inch away from my neck. This, of course, is one of the last alteratio...

Alterations and maintenance - SuitsJanuary 17th 2011

It’s time for overcoats 2

December 8th 2010

The overcoat commission from Graham Browne – a grey herringbone DB, Bateman & Ogden 600g – was ready this week. Russell returned it initially to the coatmaker because he wasn’t happy with the finish...

It’s time for overcoats 2

The overcoat commission from Graham Browne – a grey herringbone DB, Bateman & Ogden 600g – was ready this week. Russell returned it initially to the coatmaker because he wasn’t happy with the finish...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 8th 2010

It’s time for overcoats

November 10th 2010

Right, it’s definitely overcoat weather now. It’s dropped below 10 degrees in London during the day and a scarf and hat just won’t cut it. Of course, this is entirely the wrong time of the year to start...

It’s time for overcoats

Right, it’s definitely overcoat weather now. It’s dropped below 10 degrees in London during the day and a scarf and hat just won’t cut it. Of course, this is entirely the wrong time of the year to start...

Overcoats - TailoringNovember 10th 2010

Wine-red socks with a grey suit

October 25th 2010

This series is a progression in socks, from the most conservative to the most flamboyant colour combinations. It is important to start slowly and build to greater sophistication. Colour is tricky; so much can go wrong in...

Wine-red socks with a grey suit

This series is a progression in socks, from the most conservative to the most flamboyant colour combinations. It is important to start slowly and build to greater sophistication. Colour is tricky; so much can go wrong in...

Accessories - SocksOctober 25th 2010

Green socks with a blue suit

October 11th 2010

A man has come a long way when he shifts to proper socks – calf length and in navy, grey and charcoal to match the day’s suit. Too many remain stuck in the teenage mindset that short, black socks go with ever...

Green socks with a blue suit

A man has come a long way when he shifts to proper socks – calf length and in navy, grey and charcoal to match the day’s suit. Too many remain stuck in the teenage mindset that short, black socks go with ever...

Accessories - SocksOctober 11th 2010