The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

June 3rd 2020

  This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a fu...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Match in comments:
Hey Joel - I don't know much about her I'm afraid, certainly nothing first-hand...

June 3rd 2020

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and re...

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recommendations for a while, so ...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and re...

Match in comments:
Hello everyone; I would be quite pleased to hear if anyone has any recommendations for a good dry cleaners in the North East of England or Edinburgh. I’m dreading getting my sports jackets, trousers and suits from Angl...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

Match in comments:
I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...

Black tie - CoatsSeptember 20th 2017

Graham Browne Christmas sale 2016

December 20th 2016

As is traditional, Graham Browne are having a sale between Christmas and New Year - and just as traditional is my writing to tell readers about it. The sale will run on the 28th, 29th and 30th of December, and offer suits from various cloths includ...

Graham Browne Christmas sale 2016

Match in comments:
I had a few pieces made there and wasn't that happy with the fit or communication. I'm curious if you have any updates since the new ownership....

December 20th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...

April 29th 2016

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the difference between bespoke, MT...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...

Match in comments:
Facts!...

Jackets - SuitsApril 29th 2016

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital industries often have this prob...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

Match in comments:
Personally, no I think it looks a bit too smart. It's not bad, but one reason I think is that the jeans look very clean - a modern, more Italian wash with no fades and creasing etc...

Casual clothing - JacketsOctober 12th 2015

The casual waistcoat: preppy herringbone

October 5th 2015

Over the years I’ve had a few casual waistcoats made. What makes them casual? Well primarily cloth, ideally something with a pronounced texture and perhaps a chunky pattern – in this case, a tan/black herringbone woven from a w...

The casual waistcoat: preppy herringbone

Match in comments:
Basically, under the jacket collar, you don't also want a waistcoat collar that is just as thick, as this then means a lot of material in one place. A dress waistcoat will often be cut a little lower, or not have a colla...

October 5th 2015

A newcomer to quality

September 1st 2014

It’s been so long since I experienced bespoke clothing for the first time, or indeed most of the luxury, craft-based things I write about, that I find it interesting when friends do so for the first time. Each finds pleasure, or value, in...

A newcomer to quality

Match in comments:
I agree totally with good shoes and jeans. I also found upgrading from RTW suits to a cheap tailor was a significant improvement since I'm a bit harder to fit. Haven't tried something as expensive as GB. I've also had a ...

September 1st 2014

Why most tailors don’t like clothes

March 11th 2013

Quite a lot of tailors and cutters don’t wear jackets, even waistcoats during the day. Certainly if they are hidden away from the eyes of customers, they quickly dress down. Partly this is because such work is difficult to perform all day in an...

Why most tailors don’t like clothes

Match in comments:
Does your definition of gentleman have everything to do with the circumstances of one's birth, I wonder?...

StyleMarch 11th 2013

Send in your Permanent Style Tweed pics!

November 9th 2012

I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made up. The pictures will be ...

Send in your Permanent Style Tweed pics!

I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made up....

November 9th 2012

Reader question: Side straps and chinos

September 5th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 424 2417 Euromoney PLC 20 4 2968 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Incotex trousers Dear Simon, I have a couple of questions on trousers which I haven’t seen you address. First, you said in a post a while ago that...

Reader question: Side straps and chinos

Match in comments:
Thanks Simon....

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2012

Reader question: What should I buy in London?

July 6th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 479 2735 Euromoney PLC 22 5 3358 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false A typical ensemble at Trunk Clothiers Dear Simon, My name is David and I have been a fan of your work for quite a while now. As an undergraduate busines...

Reader question: What should I buy in London?

Match in comments:
I hope it's enjoyable and fruitful Paul...

Reader questionsJuly 6th 2012

Panta clothing: new trousers and site

July 2nd 2012

Trousers are easier to tailor than a jacket. They’re not straightforward, as everyone’s waist to seat ratio varies, but the problems are at least largely in two dimensions. Because trousers are simpler, you can spend less money on them. Y...

Panta clothing: new trousers and site

Match in comments:
Hi Simon, Wondering what RTW trousers you recommend - particularly for a 28 waist? I typically wear Incotex trousers but wanted to find something new. Thanks...

July 2nd 2012

Graham Browne in New York: fittings

May 21st 2012

Three fittings awaiting a customer Last week in New York it was a real pleasure to meet the five men who came for appointments with Graham Browne. They varied from the established customer (there to try on a tweed jacket and two suits) to the complet...

Graham Browne in New York: fittings

Match in comments:
Hi David Sounds like you've thought this through well. To be honest I would avoid trying to find a jacket that works as part of the suit and separately. Too easy to end up with something that isn't perfect as either. Per...

May 21st 2012

Graham Browne: Neapolitan lining

February 24th 2012

As mentioned in a previous post on this jacket, Graham Browne used the inspiration of my Rubinacci jacket to work on an alternative construction to the half-lined jacket. The same cloth (Harrison’s Moonbeam) is used in the internal lining o...

Graham Browne: Neapolitan lining

Match in comments:
Hi Sunney, My short answer would be that if you want a soft Neapolitan jacket, you need to go to a tailor from there. English tailors like this can do something that is less structured, and you might like that, but it's ...

February 24th 2012

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

January 11th 2012

An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and it will also do well i...

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

Match in comments:
You're right, that is a good rule of thumb. Like most rules I'd consider it for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of… less wise men....

StyleJanuary 11th 2012

Suit, Shirt, Tie 1: Pink and green

August 24th 2011

One of my favourite colour combinations is pink and green. The pink here is pale, too pale perhaps to be portrayed accurately in the photo, but it provides a subtle field of colour for green to play on. The green tie, from Neapolitan maker Isaia, is ...

Suit, Shirt, Tie 1: Pink and green

Match in comments:
Thanks, yes love those pale pink Oxford cloths...

Shirts - StyleAugust 24th 2011

The modern man needs a good blazer

August 17th 2011

Men wear fewer suits today, as we all know. But they retain the need for a jacket, if only to appear smart or professional. Two of my friends, a doctor and a teacher, are particular examples. Their jobs do not require them to wear a suit, yet a jacke...

The modern man needs a good blazer

Match in comments:
I’ve been looking, or rather overlooked, the one bunch suggestion, Harrisons Moonbeam in this post. There are a few good swatches in there at a nice weight of around 11oz. Can you suggest any other bunches ie. from Har...

StyleAugust 17th 2011

Different ways to pad the chest of a suit

July 13th 2011

A reader commented that the way he spots a good bespoke suit is to look under the lapel and look for the little pinpricks that betray hand padding. This does indeed show where the tailor has come through the suit cloth as he sews the parts of the che...

Different ways to pad the chest of a suit

Match in comments:
It's the actual act of pad stitching the chest piece of a jacket....

SuitsJuly 13th 2011

Choppin & Lodge cotton suit

July 1st 2011

A cotton suit, or at least jacket, should be a staple of casual summer wear. Cotton is often derided by fans of bespoke because it has no drape and wears out quicker than other fabrics. But the issue of drape – how the cloth falls across your b...

Choppin & Lodge cotton suit

Match in comments:
Yes Robert, no thread on PS ever dies, it only matures! I would press them at home, yes...

SuitsJuly 1st 2011

Altering the neck of a suit

January 17th 2011

This is an alteration to an old flannel suit, pinching in and raising the neck of the jacket slightly to correct a collar that currently stands a half inch away from my neck. This, of course, is one of the last alterations you should have done. It ca...

Altering the neck of a suit

This is an alteration to an old flannel suit, pinching in and raising the neck of the jacket slightly to correct a collar that currently stands a half inch away from my neck. This, of course, is one of the last alteratio...

Alterations and care - SuitsJanuary 17th 2011

It’s time for overcoats 2

December 8th 2010

The overcoat commission from Graham Browne – a grey herringbone DB, Bateman & Ogden 600g – was ready this week. Russell returned it initially to the coatmaker because he wasn’t happy with the finishing of the pleats, but the...

It’s time for overcoats 2

Match in comments:
Hi Ebi, Unfortunately a lot of this is down to your physical proportions, and is subjective and depends on the style you like. To be honest, I think it's safest to look at what your tailor suggests, given their ideas of ...

CoatsDecember 8th 2010

It’s time for overcoats

November 10th 2010

Right, it’s definitely overcoat weather now. It’s dropped below 10 degrees in London during the day and a scarf and hat just won’t cut it. Of course, this is entirely the wrong time of the year to start thinking about a bespoke coat...

It’s time for overcoats

Match in comments:
It's possible. Try Graham Browne for an English structured look, or Whitcomb & Shaftesbury for a slightly drapier one and higher quality...

CoatsNovember 10th 2010

Wine-red socks with a grey suit

October 25th 2010

This series is a progression in socks, from the most conservative to the most flamboyant colour combinations. It is important to start slowly and build to greater sophistication. Colour is tricky; so much can go wrong in a shade. Buy one or two pairs...

Wine-red socks with a grey suit

Match in comments:
Thanks, The Armoury has their own collection of Bresciani OTC wool socks which have all the essential colors. Asking them to see how they compare to the Mazarin equivalent in terms of thickness as I am looking for a thin...

Socks and underwearOctober 25th 2010

Green socks with a blue suit

October 11th 2010

A man has come a long way when he shifts to proper socks – calf length and in navy, grey and charcoal to match the day’s suit. Too many remain stuck in the teenage mindset that short, black socks go with everything. They don’t; they...

Green socks with a blue suit

Match in comments:
Thanks a lot Simon - much appreciated!...

Socks and underwearOctober 11th 2010