All sold out

October 1st 2010

I’ve just been told that the cloth pictured, a grey cashmere from W Bill, has sold out as a result of being featured on this blog. Popping down to Graham Browne I saw two jackets in it basted and ready for a fitting, and one gentleman that ...

All sold out

Match in comments:
Hi - I think it is back, yes. Worth checking. I can certainly recommend the fabric and it was intended as Spring/Summer. Cashmere can be for any season, depending on the weight. Cheers...

October 1st 2010

Graham Browne, W Bill cashmere blazer

August 25th 2010

I got my cashmere blazer from Graham Browne this week, commissioned a couple of months ago following the plan more more soft, unlined jackets ( post here). The cloth is from W Bill, cashmere and in a rather chunky, open weave that makes it even softe...

Graham Browne, W Bill cashmere blazer

Match in comments:
I checked out the Harrisons of Edinburgh website and checked the W. BILL Coatings bunch and while I didn't see one in cashmere, I did fine some very similar and beautiful patterns in Lambswool. Hope this helps. Many than...

August 25th 2010

The history of W Bill

July 21st 2010

Dealing with representatives of one or two of the cloth manufacturers in England in the past few weeks, we got to chatting about the history of the various brands. Talking with guys at Graham Browne and Anderson & Sheppard furthered that inte...

The history of W Bill

Match in comments:
Annette, this is an online magazine, not the cloth supplier W Bill...

ClothJuly 21st 2010

A lovely night at the Taylors’

July 12th 2010

Friday was the annual MTBA summer party (Master Tailors’ Benevolent Association). It’s one of two events every year that brings together all the tailoring fraternity and is consistently a great event (the other big gathering being...

A lovely night at the Taylors’

Match in comments:
TS, I'm not associated with the MBTA, I was merely there as a guest of my tailor, as many in attendance were. Thanks for the kind comments Simon...

StyleJuly 12th 2010

Wedding outfit by popular request

June 21st 2010

Well, you asked for it and here it is – the alternative wedding outfit from last Friday. Double-breasted suit from Graham Browne filling in for the absent Anderson & Sheppard, with Lobb shoes.   My daughter is pulling the...

Wedding outfit by popular request

Match in comments:
I still think what I had was good, but I'd have to add the caveat that it has been years since I was there so I can't attest so much for current product if that makes sense...

Shoes - StyleJune 21st 2010

Half-lined and unlined jackets

May 7th 2010

An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined. An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadvantage is that the jacket is m...

Half-lined and unlined jackets

Match in comments:
Yes, when people talk about unlined jackets they normally mean the sleeves are still lined and there is usually a little lining in the top of the back as well. Unlined sleeves are rather easier on cotton and linen, but s...

JacketsMay 7th 2010

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

February 17th 2010

CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

Match in comments:
I would suggest you look at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as an English starting point, and probably not Liverano as that's very expensive. For Neapolitan, I'd suggest either Caliendo or Ciardi...

Reader questionsFebruary 17th 2010

The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier

January 25th 2010

My tailor, Russell, recently lent me the tailoring book he was passed by his old boss at Kashket’s, the military tailors, when he retired. Dan and Russell still use it for reference on particularly unusual jobs like riding britches or certain c...

The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier

Match in comments:
Would you be willing to share a complete scan of this book with me? I tried reaching out to you on the Fedora Lounge, but it appears that you haven't been active for some time....

January 25th 2010

An exercise in wardrobe building

December 4th 2009

I commissioned my third bespoke suit from Graham Browne today, and I had thought about the choice pretty constantly for three weeks. There was one particular bad night in Hong Kong, plagued by jet lag, where I turned over the options for jetted versu...

An exercise in wardrobe building

Match in comments:
1 - yes, it's an excellent cloth 2 - mohair probably not, fresco certainly is 3 - yep, fine. Mine all are...

StyleDecember 4th 2009

The coat project 5

November 27th 2009

We’re almost there with the camel polo coat. Since I covered it last we’ve had a second basted fitting, where it was ripped apart again and re-cut. Then it went away to be made-up and today I had the final fitting – all complete sav...

The coat project 5

Match in comments:
Welted. Single vent. Probably half belt. If you do go for this more unusual style, keep the details simple...

CoatsNovember 27th 2009

Second British bespoke, part 1

November 11th 2009

I mentioned a while back that I had commissioned a second suit from Graham Browne in London. And after rather too much travelling lately (Milan, Madrid, Dubai in a month; and Hong Kong next week) I’ve finally got around to watching the first st...

Second British bespoke, part 1

Match in comments:
Thanks. Decision made....

November 11th 2009

The coat project 4

October 1st 2009

I had the first fitting last week for my bespoke overcoat – a traditional polo coat in camel hair, with the addition of a full-length pleat in the back that can be adjusted depending on what is worn underneath. (See previous instalment here.) E...

The coat project 4

Match in comments:
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator....

CoatsOctober 1st 2009

The coat project 3

September 11th 2009

Yes, that’s right. It’s a picture of me cutting the cloth for my polo coat. Russell at Graham Browne realised that I just have a natural tailor’s touch and decided I would cut the whole thing better than him. Also, he fancied a cup ...

The coat project 3

Match in comments:
You'd better take 3.6 meter for a suit, and 1 meter for additional trousers. I always order 3 trousers, which allows me to wear the suit for 5 consequent days (2 days rest for each trousers to hang properly)....

CoatsSeptember 11th 2009

The coat project 2

August 21st 2009

My thanks to all of you that either commented here or emailed me about my decision on the polo coat I am having designed at Graham Browne. The response was fairly unanimous: go for double breasted as it best fits the classic style of the coat, and it...

The coat project 2

Match in comments:
i like the style. a unique style good color combination. ______________ double breasted blazer...

CoatsAugust 21st 2009

The coat project

August 16th 2009

I used to buy overcoats too small. Because I didn’t wear a jacket all the time, I picked the size that fitted over a sweater, which was too small with a jacket. Now if anything I buy overcoats too big: to make sure they fit over anything, inclu...

The coat project

Match in comments:
Hey Henry - all canvassed. All bespoke overcoats will be and most high-end RTW ones should be too. Cheers...

CoatsAugust 16th 2009

British bespoke – Part 6

July 31st 2009

At last. The suit is ready and my first bespoke experience in the UK is almost over. The blue double-breasted piece, in a small herringbone with brown-detail buttons, has been seven weeks in the making. But now it’s ready to take away. I timed ...

British bespoke – Part 6

Match in comments:
Thanks, although I have plenty of opinions from tailors who see the pieces in person, so I'll probably stick with those...

July 31st 2009

British bespoke – Part 5

July 24th 2009

It’s getting pretty exciting now. Probably the penultimate fitting for my double-breasted suit from bespoke tailors Graham Browne. And as you’d expect, there are plenty more technical details to get into. I was broadly satisfied with the ...

British bespoke – Part 5

It’s getting pretty exciting now. Probably the penultimate fitting for my double-breasted suit from bespoke tailors Graham Browne. And as you’d expect, there are plenty more technical details to get into. I was broad...

July 24th 2009

British bespoke – Part 4

July 17th 2009

Monday was the first stage of my final fitting for the suit from Graham Browne – my first bespoke suit in the UK. While there is far less to say about the trousers of a suit than the jacket, there are still a few interesting points to note. Lik...

British bespoke – Part 4

Match in comments:
I feel your blog really useful and inspiring me. Thank you. permanent make up...

July 17th 2009

British bespoke – Part 3

July 2nd 2009

My first, baste fitting for my bespoke suit at Graham Browne today. While I’ve had fittings at this stage previously with my Hong Kong tailor, this is the first time I’ve been able to ask as many questions and probe the details of this pr...

British bespoke – Part 3

Match in comments:
Thank you for sharing this with us--it is highly informative....

July 2nd 2009

British bespoke – Part 2

June 25th 2009

I saw my first British bespoke suit being drawn and cut recently at Graham Browne, in advance of the first fitting. First I saw the patterns being drawn. Picture 1 shows the pattern for the front part of the trousers, which has just been drawn out. T...

British bespoke – Part 2

Match in comments:
True. This is a fairly old post - there are more recent posts about tailors making straight onto the cloth (e.g. Langa) and others making patterns at different stages.......

June 25th 2009

My first English bespoke suit

June 17th 2009

My tailoring is taking a step up in the world. I’m having my first English bespoke suit made. The tailor is Graham Browne, whom I have written about on this blog previously. They are located on Well Court, just off Bow Lane in the City. I had o...

My first English bespoke suit

Match in comments:
No I don't, generally. Double-breasted suits are usually made so that they are fairly easy to sit down in without undoing that button. But it does depend how the jacket is cut. If it's tighter, it can be less comfortable...

SuitsJune 17th 2009

A new (dashing) tailor discovered

May 15th 2009

Good tailors for adjustments to suits, trousers and shirts are not always easy to find. There is a raft of pretty poor establishments dotted around London, staffed by dressmakers or general tailors with no specific experience of men’s tailoring...

A new (dashing) tailor discovered

Match in comments:
Oh dear, sorry to hear that Mahmood. I won't recommend them again. If you want another recommendation, I'd suggest Pinnas & Needles in Soho...

May 15th 2009