A few years ago I came across a double-breasted brown velvet jacket in a vintage shop in London. It was far too large and, at the same time, far too short. But I loved the contrast between deep-pile brown velvet and grosgrain lapels, both in colour and texture. And it struck me as a particularly elegant colour for velvet: other than dark green and possibly black, velvet jackets for me always looked a little cheap or a little gimmicky.
It helps that I haven’t seen a brown velvet jacket since.
Dark brown, as a future post will likely say at greater length, is my favourite colour for most things other than suits. Certainly all things leather. And for while I’ve hankered after an alternative to my Lesley & Roberts black tie.
Timothy Everest has taken on the task of turning my imagination and vague memory into a piece of tailoring. It will feature large, long lapels intended to mask my slim shoulders – straight and sharp with little belly. The length of the lapel will be aided by a 1×1 fastening: just one length of frogging across the waist. There will be one loop of simple frogging (sewn by hand, of course) on each sleeve.
The shoulders will be relatively padded, to accentuate the effect (this is black tie, after all: an Atlas silhouette seems fitting). Pockets will be jetted; there will be no vents. The velvet selected is a cotton/silk mix, which should create a finer pile with greater colour depth.
I promise many pictures.
Thank you for them
Mr Vintage Fayre: Bringing vintage menswear together in London
Read the commentsWith one hand in a trouser pocket, certainly. Sometimes, when feeling particularly anarchic and Dylanesque, even two
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
Read the commentsI don't know, Thomas. Have you asked them?
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
Read the commentsCertainly David, that would work. It could start to look a little old-mannish, but that could be alleviated with the cut or colour - or simply leant into if that's your style
The virtues of a shawl-collar cardigan
Read the comments
I’ve a brown moleskin jacket that fits like a glove, and is a great alternative to sports jackets: brown is, I agree, a much under-rated option in the wardrobe. A velvet incarnation would be extremely smart, and individual too.
‘Many pictures;’ I jolly well hope so! Looking forward to them already…
The key question, if I may say so, is can a velvet jacket be worn with ‘ordinary’ black tie trousers at a ball?
what do you think?
such questions keep me awake at night…