Dear Mr Simon,
Let me first say that I always admire your passion and insight into gentlemen’s garments. I am a fan of Permanent Style and I have been hooked on it for years.
Let me first say that I always admire your passion and insight into gentlemen’s garments. I am a fan of Permanent Style and I have been hooked on it for years.
I have one long-standing question: what kind of wallet should I carry with my suit? Which do you think is better – having a card case and bill case separately or a card-and-bill case combined? Of course, there are some alternatives like money clips. And then, which pocket to store it in?
I know that some tailors close suit pockets up for two reasons – to prevent wearers from putting items in and then to prevent the suit from being out of shape because of the first reason.
Because of that, one side of my brain is saying to me that I should buy a combined one to reduce my items to carry but the other side is saying that if I do so, it might be a lump and ruin my suit silhouette. I am sort of snookered. haha
These questions might sound rather trivial but I would be grateful if you could share your ideas about them with me.
I know that some tailors close suit pockets up for two reasons – to prevent wearers from putting items in and then to prevent the suit from being out of shape because of the first reason.
Because of that, one side of my brain is saying to me that I should buy a combined one to reduce my items to carry but the other side is saying that if I do so, it might be a lump and ruin my suit silhouette. I am sort of snookered. haha
These questions might sound rather trivial but I would be grateful if you could share your ideas about them with me.
I look forward to your reply.
Taku
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Hi Taku,
The key to carrying any kind of wallet is to keep it as slim as possible, so be very restrictive with what you carry you with you – the minimum number of cards, only the most recent receipts etc.
I find the best style is then a long wallet, sometimes called a coat or jacket wallet. It minimises the amount of overlap of your cards, so the wallet is as thin as possible (see picture above). If you restrict yourself to four or five cards, you can even just use every other slot.
The other side of the wallet carries your bills and receipts. I know people have to carry far more notes in other countries than in the UK (we get stuck with coins), but they shouldn’t thicken that other side too much.
Ideally, your wallet should still not be in your jacket pocket. It should be in a briefcase or whatever bag you carry with you. Certainly that’s where chunkier items like your keys should go, and you should avoid it altogether with lightweight suits.
But if it does have to go in your jacket, put it in the in-breast pocket and balance the other side with something – I have an iPhone 5, and that’s light and thin enough to work. (It wasn’t really excuse enough to upgrade from the iPhone 4, but then I like gadgets.) Keep your jacket done up too – that helps a lot with supporting the jacket and its contents.
It is also helpful if your tailor cuts the in-breast pocket slightly higher than in a normal, off-the-peg suit. It means that the wallet will slightly fill out your chest, rather than your chest and waist. Of all the tailors I’ve tried, only Anderson & Sheppard and those that trained at A&S do this as standard. Perhaps it’s having that bit of drape to play with.
I hope that’s helpful. The image at top is an Asprey coat wallet.
Simon
It depends on the occasion. If the drape aspect *is* critical – which it isn’t on an everyday basis – I only bring my driving licence (=ID), Visa card and one or two banknotes.
/Håkan, Sweden
Simon I too am a fan of your blog. This post was one of the most useful I’ve read in a while. I’ve long used a coat wallet in the manner you suggest and offer another reason for keeping things to a minimum – if you happen to lose it – the fewer things you need to cancel! As my wife said to me 10 years ago “do you really need to carry every card with you?” Great blog and happy New Years!
Dimitrios
Hi Simon
Good advice. I try and carry everything in my briefcase now and it works well. You just have to train yourself to put things in there instead of stuffing them in the nearest pocket. I remember a few years ago, you did a post on the Alfred Dunhill pochette. I’ve toyed with the idea of getting one as it really fits the bill(intended), but I just can’t seem to overcome the self conciousness of carrying it, lovely as it looks. It’s strange how the mind functions, I started wearing bow ties occasionally to work a few years ago. On the first day it drew a lot of comments, but I carried on doing it and by about the third or fourth time I didn’t even give it a second thought. Mentally, there seems to be a lot more resistence to the pochette. Do you still use yours?
I would go with Ettinger, either coat or billfold. Quite simply, the best bridle hide leather wallets around, bar none.
K
There isn't that much to separate quality wallets. Most use similar leathers within their type – so all bridle hide leathers are pretty much the same and any cordovan will come from Horween and be pretty much the same.
The only other differentiator is sewing my hand or machine. Ettinger and others are by machine, whereas those closer to $1000 or more, including Berluti, Hermes or similar, and hand sewn.
Dear Simon, are you sure Valextra is sewn by hand?
No, they’re not – my mistake in that comment, I will edit it
What about Equus? Aren’t his wallets hand sewn?
Yes, they are
Does this not mean they are extremely good value for money then if all other hand sewn are closer to $1000> Equus appear to be under £150
Yes, they are very good value.
I’m considering one of his “Minimal” card holders. These are made of Chevre. Any thoughts on how this compares to calfskin or bridle?
It’ll be softer and lighter in weight than bridle, not quite so soft feeling as calfskin
Sounds like the value then is in the craftsmanship while the material is perhaps not as fine as what you might find with some machine sewn wallets.
No, that’s not the case – chevre or goat is used in lots of machine-sewn pieces. And it’s not necessarily worse than the other two leathers, just different. It’s usually used when you want something tough, light in weight and with a bit of stretch
Simon – do you think the coat wallet should be (soft) calf or (harder) bridle? I find I prefer the calf but also find the bridle holds shape better If wallet placed in my coat. I would be interested in your views Dimitrios
I think it’s just a case of personal preference – there is little practical difference. I tend to prefer calf
I enjoy your blog and read it daily. I had this same issue years back and changed to a money clip and card holder. But then reduced to essentials with just the money clip and a couple of cards. I have got use to using what I have and have had no problems since. I also balance out with phone.
Cheers
Robert
I stopped using wallets a while ago. My bespoke trousers have outward angled inner pockets inside the front pockets. 2-3 credit cards and ID go in the left inner pocket. Mobile phone in the right inner pocket. Neatly folded cash goes in the jacket inner breast pocket.
Sounds like a good compromise, though I’m not sure I would carry a phone in my trouser pocket, even in the inner pocket for change that mine have.
Wallet in briefcase or bag? So now I’m supposed to carry a briefcase or bag wherever I go? That’s ridiculous. What is the point of tailors giving a jacket 3 or more inside pockets as standard if you’re supposed to keep everything in your bag?
I keep my wallet in my left inside pocket. My tailor knows that’s where I keep it, he knows how big it is, and he cuts the jacket accordingly. He cuts another pocket for my phone on the other side. In my trouser pocket, there is room for my keys. And that way my hands are free and I don’t need to worry about losing my handbag.
I’m sure your tailor would say that, except for heavy cloths, it would be better for the line if there was nothing in the pockets. But as you say that isn’t always possible or desireable
What about coins gentlemen? Where do you keep these? Trouser pockets?
I try to minimise them, and then keep them in a small internal pocket sewn either into the pocket of the trousers or the hip pocket of the jacket. The smaller the pocket, the more it can take the weight of the metal
Small coin pouches like this one might come in handy: http://launer.com/leather-coin-purse.html
I would imagine most bespoke suits from Savile Row would have higher in-breast pockets. Richard James definitely does and I would highly recommend them.
Talking about chunkier items, and keeping in mind that it close to impossible to carry a briefcase all the time, what do you do with them? Particularly keys which can damage the pockets? Would you recommend a small leather key pouch (and where from)?
Hey,
Interestingly, only A&S have higher in-breast pockets in my experience. Poole, Huntsman, Norton, Richard Anderson etc don’t.
I tend to always carry something – a small bag or a case or something, when I have bulkier items.
Simon
Phones are generally slim enough not to bulge in a suit pocket. But for a wallet, I just tuck it into my waistband. It is far more comfortable than pockets, and just the top of the wallet showing at the top of your trousers looks far nicer than “the bulge”. Personally, I use a folding wallet, and put only one half in my waistband, so it is half the thickness again and even more comfortable. I ensure the side with coins and bulk is on the side that is out of my pants.
Do you have a favorite long wallet? I have never owned that style. I actually haven’t even been the one to purchase my last few.
I received a very nice wallet with a money clip for Christmas. It is thin enough that as long as I don’t overstuff it, it doesn’t seem to add much bulk.
I have a very nice one from Berluti which has aged beautifully. I don’t use it that much any more though – I prefer small, card holders these days, as I don’t carry any cash
May I ask what card holders you use? Thanks
A small envelope-style Hermes one, and an alligator piece from Serge Amoruso
Simon, is it possible to finde Serge Amuroso’s products anywhere online? If not, what would you recommend as the best possible alligator card case? Thanks!
No, they are all made to commission, bespoke.
Pretty much anything hand sewn would be lovely (and expensive). I love my glasses case from dunhill
Thanks! I´m in the US and Dunhill´s leather range here is extremely reduced and does not include the hand swen, UK-made goods. Between Equus, Jean Rousseau and Chester Mox for a hand sewn, alligator card case which would you prefer?
Equus or Jean Rousseau
What about when you go out in casual wear like jeans and no jacket?
I use a slim wallet with a minimum of cards. It doesn’t distort my jackets and can fit in a jeans pocket. I only need a single wallet and want it to be versatile.
Does you long wallet work with jeans Simon?
No, though I tend to have some kind of light, casual jacket on most times – or a bag
Do you ever carry a wallet in one of your rear pants pockets?
Why wouldn’t you carry a phone in your pants pockets?
And if you have a cigar case, where would you put it? Do you use your jacket’s pockets at all?
No.
Because it ruins the line and look of them.
In a bag.
I only use jacket pockets for a slim wallet and a phone.
What about the outside pockets of a jacket? Do you ever use those? I sometimes see people putting their hands in them. I assume that’s not a good idea…
No I don’t. And no, it’s not great but if it’s not for long, and it’s a tough material (eg tweed) it’s usually fine
Do you then have to carry a bag all the time? Do you put your keys in a bag too?
Keys pretty much always in a bag, yes. Wallet and phone more usually in a jacket
Simon, when you write putting your phone in your trouser pocket “ruins the line”, do you mean it permanently damages it or it simply doesn’t look good?
Doesn’t look good. Possible permanent damage, but only in the long term
Hi Simon
Have you come across a company called Pickett? If so, have you any experience of them?
Thanks
Yes I know Trevor Pickett. Nice leather goods, though I don’t have any personal experience with them
Thanks. Any idea if they’re at the same level as Aspinall?
Pretty similar – price is a decent guide given they’re both similar, small companies
Dear Simon,
Curious to know if you have seen George Cleverley’s Russian leather card cases/wallets? If yes, what do you think of them? Thanks in advance.
Decently made, and I love the smell and texture of that Russian leather – I have a pair of shoes in it that I love for primarily that reason – here
Hi Simon,
I’m looking for a slim hard business card case like the silver one in American Psycho: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cISYzA36-ZY. Any quality brand recommendation? Thanks~
Not off the top of my head, but I’d recommend looking in vintage stores, or antique stores. I have a lovely one from an antiques place, solid silver and beautifully engraved. And a lot cheaper than new
How much did you pay for it? Would you recommend buying it on ebay or just look in person? How do you know the difference between a cigarette case and a business card case? Some sellers say they are 2 in one, but i’d think the business card case is slimmer and squarish.
I paid £65.
Ideally look in person. You can try eBay, but it just means it’s a bit more random, more chance you’ll have to try and return things.
Yes, they would be a different shape originally. But you can also use cigarette cases for cards, and there are more interesting options there. It just means you’re repurposing something, so another reason maybe to try and see it in person
Thanks Simon. How do you know if it’s real silver?
It will have a hallmark
Hi Simon, Saw a few comments about how to carry keys.
I can recommend orbitkey. I think you and you readers will appreciate the simple design and functionality (whether you go for leather, canvas, nylon rubber etc…)
Do recommend a black or brown wallet?
Completely up to you. Perhaps, if you need some kind of guide, whichever other colour of leather (in bags, shoes etc) you wear most?
Hi Simon,
I was recently able to find a used berluti alligator cardholder for $500. I think it is in decent shape, photos attached. Wondering if you think it’s worth it and if it will age well or if you think that much money is better spent elsewhere.
Regards
AR
Hi Antonio,
Can I ask, how big was the image you uploaded? Because it’s coming up for me very small. It might be a bug with our new comments system
Thanks
Hi Simon,
I had to take a screenshot of the photo I took to upload since the system wouldn’t let me upload a photo larger than 2mb. That may be why it came through smaller. I can try to figure out how to upload a better photo or I could email a few photos.
Regards
Antonio
OK, thanks Antonio. Yes, 2MB is fairly big but I guess still relatively small for some photos today.
No problem. I’m not an expert on photo sizes, I’m sure there was a better way for me to upload. I’ve emailed them over, thanks for the quick replies and looking forward to your thoughts.
Thanks
AR
No worries, and I’ve seen them, thank you.
The wallet does look nice, and generally Berluti makes great quality – just very expensive. It’s hard to assess the quality from here, but I would guess what you’re got is really good, and good value at that price.
Hi Simon,
What kind of wallet do you generally carry when you’re wearing casual clothes (for example denim or shorts)? I’ve typically carried a money clip and card carrier, but a long thin wallet may be more practical (and less flashy).
I never really carry cash anymore, so it’s just a small card carrier. London is almost cash-free at this point, so this makes things easier
Hi Simon,
I am Looking for a good option for a purse/container for these scenarios which might not be of everyday concern, but wash up every once in a while: how do you carry change/cash in other currencies? Where do you keep passports, other important documents when on vacation/ travelling (maybe even beach)? Ho do you store coins in your car? Where do you keep business cards in your briefcase (if that still happens)…? And maybe there are some other readers’ tips as well, would love to hear about different options!
Hi Simon, I have been using a burgundy-grained leather wallet from Hermes but recently noticed that it was dry and there were scratches, so I used Saphir’s renovator cream to nourish the leather.
However, the leather has dried out even more, and some white marks are around the wallet. Could you suggest what I should do for the wallet’s leather? Should I treat the same as the dress shoes?
Many thanks,
Jack
I would always try and ask the shop/maker about things like that Jack – the leather may well have a coating, and not be something you can put a cream or polish on.
Okay, thanks, Simon.
Hi Simon, what wallet/cardholder do you use today? And any recommendations? Thanks!
I use an Hermes cardholder, very nice and simple, envelope style. It’s all I need really