As a quick teaser during our US-themed week, above is my suit from Chittleborough & Morgan at the basted stage. The broad, peaked lapels and strong shoulders are immediately obvious, but during the fitting the most interesting points were the pinched-in waistcoat and pleated trousers, neither of which I’m used to. More in a couple of weeks after the second fitting. Background on the project here.

And below, a house coat being worked on at C&M. In a heavy wool, it will be unadorned and fully canvassed. I can see it being extremely elegant when strolling about the house. But perhaps difficult when you sit down?



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Eugene Freedman

The house coat is perfect for Dracula or any other count I would presume.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,
Believe it or not, the coat designed to be confined within your house sooner or later will find its way into the streets. Why? for a very simple reason: I let you guess which one?
Be that as it may, don’t be surprised when it happens.
John

Jerrell Whitehead

Hello Simon,

This is a bespoke trouser-related question. I recently left the house in a pair of fitted, summer-weight Brioni trousers. Although perhaps a bit of an exaggeration, it seemed like within an hour I had the ‘accordion wrinkles’ look at the back of my knees. As you can imagine, the whole outfit looked sloppy as a result.

Does this happen because of the trouser weight, or because of the close fit (second skin)? When I get my bespoke trousers made, how can I avoid this problem but still have pants that are light/breathable?

Best

Jerrell Whitehead

Yes, I do mean a summer-weight wool. Formal-ish blazer, odd trousers, and I am meant to be going for a bit of a seriousness with the look. Is it time to invest in a trouser press at the office or do I just live with it?

Anonymous

Dear Simon

Your house coat article, which i have just read, strikes a cord with me for it was only this week just gone, that i was watching my newly arrived Sherlock Holmes series with Jeremy Brett.

In the first three series, Holmes wears a house coat. Long in length, lighter in weight than yours and with a very wide lapel. This got me thinking of the practicality for such a coat as my house is dated 1850 and, despite the central heating, is always on the cool side.

In addition to the Holmes example, i have also been watching the Jane Austen films and in the film Pride and Prejudice, the father wears the most lovely house coat whilst the other gentlemen seem to wear almost the same when they go shooting. Long light coats that flap and blow open in the wind. I am so taken with them as they are so elegant but functional and gentlemanly.

Some background information on how you derived on your choice of design, make-up and fabric would be incredibly interesting. Personally i am not that keen on your choice of the neru style collar (if this is the correct description).

Please furnish us more old fashioned gentlemen, with news and advise and, above all a full length article including practicalities of wear must be written down for us all to devour.

I wait with impatience

Bradley