Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough &...

February 12th 2021

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character...

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough &...

Match in comments:
No worries, always happy to. They come through to me in the same way as new ones, and it's great that the whole body of knowledge on here is always useful...

Alterations and careFebruary 12th 2021

Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing

June 22nd 2020

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just to...

Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing

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No worries. There is also the post ' Is bespoke worth it' which takes a broader view...

June 22nd 2020

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style br...

August 24th 2018

Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accentuat...

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style br...

Match in comments:
Thanks, I wanted to use the fabric on a G&H MTM suit. And also with a ticket pocket...

SuitsAugust 24th 2018

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the...

July 26th 2017

Last month, we organised a dinner at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel to celebrate The Style Guide - the book published earlier this year by myself and photographer Jamie Ferguson. There had been official launch events, and signings, at Fenwick's of Bo...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the...

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Hope you enjoy the little video, changing a bit with humour your dinner for your book. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CD-nn2zpvRN/?igshid=1deds976zz0ra...

Style - VideoJuly 26th 2017

BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie

February 18th 2016

One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear. Although most cutters and tailors aren’t actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing something bespoke – s...

BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie

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Thank you....

Black tie - StyleFebruary 18th 2016

What is quality? What about design? – Stock...

November 2nd 2015

At our book launch in Stockholm last week, Konrad Olsson (above) – editor of Plaza Uomo magazine – asked some rather stimulating questions. Such as, what is quality? Well, for me quality (in clothing) is aspects of manufacture that lea...

What is quality? What about design? – Stock...

Match in comments:
Hi Hugo, Well spotted. It will be launching on the website next week - there is a special edition of it just for readers... S...

November 2nd 2015

Wearing odd waistcoats

April 1st 2015

You’re more likely to see odd waistcoats being worn badly than well. Because they usually don’t fit, and nothing is less forgiving than a waistcoat. Because they are often, bizarrely, worn in bright patterns and colours. And bec...

Wearing odd waistcoats

Match in comments:
Hi Daniel, Have a look at the homepage of this site, and read the article on loose fitting cardigans generally (the long sleeve cream). I talk in that one about the waistcoat...

April 1st 2015

Denim and tailoring

October 31st 2014

The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative preconceptions of suiting. The execution, howev...

Denim and tailoring

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Thanks, although with some bespoke like that at Levis written about here, you can have that denim and get (in my experience) a better fit than through wash and wear...

DenimOctober 31st 2014

Gaziano & Girling guests

October 2nd 2014

By request, some of the lovely lovely people at the Gaziano & Girling evening last week. Not that many ties around, but some stunning Chittleborough & Morgan tailoring. Above, Michael Browne in his navy seersucker.   F...

Gaziano & Girling guests

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Charcoal and very dark brown...

StyleOctober 2nd 2014

Consider a charcoal tie

March 12th 2014

Conservative accessories are a great thing to master. First, because the acquisition of unusual clothing – such as cord suits or purple jackets – requires something effective to balance it. And second, because dressing extremely conservat...

Consider a charcoal tie

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I'd recommend pure wool actually today - cashmere hasn't held up that well....

Style - TiesMarch 12th 2014

Parisian gentlemen

December 20th 2013

In Paris last week Dirnelli organised a wonderful dinner of fans of the blog and bespoke gentlemen. He is fourth from the right. The other gentlemen will remain nameless. Around the table were customers of Chittleborough & Morgan, Solito, Cam...

Parisian gentlemen

Match in comments:
Interesting use of the word 'gentlemen', which for me relates more to the manner of one's conduct, rather than one's dress. I have no insight into the character of the attendees, but wonder whether you have another inter...

December 20th 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...

November 29th 2013

For those that were interested in the Chittleborough & Morgan suit I wrote about last week, here are some more images. The photography was done by new online luxury magazine Essence, for whom I wrote a short piece on Anderson & Sheppa...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...

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Around a year ago. And no, not in the immediate future....

Style - SuitsNovember 29th 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4

November 22nd 2013

My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achieved. It is a consistent str...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4

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Probably this one, just because it is so different to everything else I have. Be warned though, it is very different and dramatic...

SuitsNovember 22nd 2013

When Lorenzo met Joe

October 23rd 2013

A couple of months ago Lorenzo Cifonelli asked me if I could introduce him to Joe Morgan next time Lorenzo was in London. Perhaps, he asked, we could even have lunch together. Finally – last Friday – we managed to make it happen. “I...

When Lorenzo met Joe

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You can buy them from C&M, yes, though they may well simply make one for you...

October 23rd 2013

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

September 23rd 2013

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama. Mi...

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

Match in comments:
much obliged Simon. A...

StyleSeptember 23rd 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3

September 18th 2013

The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be ...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3

Match in comments:
It's not a normal weight, no, that would be much more like 11-13oz. If you want a versatile office suit, I wouldn't recommend it. I did have one, but regret it for that use. Yes it looks more sporting - more like a hacki...

SuitsSeptember 18th 2013

Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...

August 23rd 2013

Dear Simon, I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The la...

Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...

Match in comments:
I think you might have misunderstood my tone Roy. I meant stupid purely as a term of hyperbole - that there is a huge amount of it. French suits do have a much larger amount of hand finishing. However, it is also largely...

Reader questions - SuitsAugust 23rd 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

July 11th 2013

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

Match in comments:
Simon wrote: "Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a definite style: I would put Edward Sexton,(...)" In the BBC series on Savile Row (Style Genius) Edward Sexton himself says: "I have not moved to ...

Casual clothingJuly 11th 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 2

July 3rd 2013

This is the second fitting on my navy three-piece suit from Chittleborough & Morgan. As with any tailor I try for the first time, I encouraged Joe (Morgan) to cut and make a suit to his style. It was interesting to see the differences from o...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 2

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No, not really. The more you try the more tired you get of working with a new cutter to get your pattern right. I only tried Joe because his style is so unique. Too much emphasis is also put on the brands of tailoring ho...

SuitsJuly 3rd 2013

Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan

June 20th 2013

By popular request, here’s a picture of Michael Browne of Chittleborough & Morgan in his navy seersucker suit at the Savile Row event on Monday. Pretty special, isn’t it? Look out for the first post on fitting my Chittleb...

Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan

Match in comments:
I've always preferred linen personally - subtler perhaps than seersucker. But I'm actually trying out a suit at the moment, so we'll see how that turns out...

SuitsJune 20th 2013

Savile Row Bespoke at London Collections: Men

June 18th 2013

Anda and Savile Row Bespoke outdid themselves yesterday, at the second The English Gentleman event. Held in the pavilion of Lord’s, there were dozens of suits on display from 19 different Savile Row houses. Most importantly, many of them had sp...

Savile Row Bespoke at London Collections: Men

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No, but it's a fairly standard lightweight worsted. It will be a merino wool, in something like a super 120 or 150, around 9 ounce...

June 18th 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)

June 4th 2013

As a quick teaser during our US-themed week, above is my suit from Chittleborough & Morgan at the basted stage. The broad, peaked lapels and strong shoulders are immediately obvious, but during the fitting the most interesting points were th...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)

Match in comments:
Hi Bradley, thanks for your note but the house coat is not mine. I'm not sure I would wear one - I prefer a heavy dressing gown if anything. I have a Budd one from Merchant Fox Simon...

SuitsJune 4th 2013

Column on We Are The Market

May 21st 2013

Two months ago I began contributing to fashion site We Are The Market – as a little craft and classicism amongst the high heels and runway trends. Permanent Style readers might be interested to hear my thoughts on developing a relationship ...

Column on We Are The Market

Match in comments:
Thanks, no these old pieces aren't available any more...

May 21st 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one

April 12th 2013

I recently began a suit project with Joe Morgan, one of the most supremely talented cutters on the Row. Joe is both technically exacting and stylistically innovative. Not only does he make best use of the Tommy Nutter inheritance, updating those big ...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one

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Aha, thank you Martins! Good point...

SuitsApril 12th 2013

Michael Browne: Style and the tailor

November 8th 2012

Most tailors, in my experience, do not have great style. It was always thus: tailors were pushed by their customers, and one of the problems with modern tailoring is the lack of stylish and educated customers to encourage new cuts, materials and styl...

Michael Browne: Style and the tailor

Match in comments:
Hi Jon, I've visited and seen some of Michael's ongoing work, if that's helpful. It's a nice lower-ground floor space on Berkeley Square, which Michael has decked out for him and an apprentice - lots of black. The work s...

ShoesNovember 8th 2012