Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough &...
One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character...
Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough &...
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You mean the divot at the top of the sleeve Adam? In that case it is pretty much gone, but still slightly there. I think it's inevitable unfortunately when you're trying to make a substantial alteration like this. But I ...
Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing
A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just to...
Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing
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I would leave that up to the tailor to decide George, based on the proportions elsewhere. By the way, I assume you mean flapped as well, not just a jett?...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style br...
Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accentuat...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style br...
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Thanks Phong. I'd say they're pretty similar...
The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the...
Last month, we organised a dinner at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel to celebrate The Style Guide - the book published earlier this year by myself and photographer Jamie Ferguson. There had been official launch events, and signings, at Fenwick's of Bo...
The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the...
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Hope you enjoy the little video, changing a bit with humour your dinner for your book. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CD-nn2zpvRN/?igshid=1deds976zz0ra...
BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie
One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear. Although most cutters and tailors aren’t actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing something bespoke – s...
BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie
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Thank you....
What is quality? What about design? – Stock...
At our book launch in Stockholm last week, Konrad Olsson (above) – editor of Plaza Uomo magazine – asked some rather stimulating questions. Such as, what is quality? Well, for me quality (in clothing) is aspects of manufacture that lea...
What is quality? What about design? – Stock...
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Hi Hugo, Well spotted. It will be launching on the website next week - there is a special edition of it just for readers... S...
Wearing odd waistcoats
You’re more likely to see odd waistcoats being worn badly than well. Because they usually don’t fit, and nothing is less forgiving than a waistcoat. Because they are often, bizarrely, worn in bright patterns and colours. And bec...
Wearing odd waistcoats
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Hi Daniel, Have a look at the homepage of this site, and read the article on loose fitting cardigans generally (the long sleeve cream). I talk in that one about the waistcoat...
Denim and tailoring
The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative preconceptions of suiting. The execution, howev...
Denim and tailoring
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Thanks, although with some bespoke like that at Levis written about here, you can have that denim and get (in my experience) a better fit than through wash and wear...
Gaziano & Girling guests
By request, some of the lovely lovely people at the Gaziano & Girling evening last week. Not that many ties around, but some stunning Chittleborough & Morgan tailoring. Above, Michael Browne in his navy seersucker. F...
Gaziano & Girling guests
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Charcoal and very dark brown...
Consider a charcoal tie
Conservative accessories are a great thing to master. First, because the acquisition of unusual clothing – such as cord suits or purple jackets – requires something effective to balance it. And second, because dressing extremely conservat...
Consider a charcoal tie
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I'd recommend pure wool actually today - cashmere hasn't held up that well....
Parisian gentlemen
In Paris last week Dirnelli organised a wonderful dinner of fans of the blog and bespoke gentlemen. He is fourth from the right. The other gentlemen will remain nameless. Around the table were customers of Chittleborough & Morgan, Solito, Cam...
Parisian gentlemen
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Interesting use of the word 'gentlemen', which for me relates more to the manner of one's conduct, rather than one's dress. I have no insight into the character of the attendees, but wonder whether you have another inter...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...
For those that were interested in the Chittleborough & Morgan suit I wrote about last week, here are some more images. The photography was done by new online luxury magazine Essence, for whom I wrote a short piece on Anderson & Sheppa...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...
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Around a year ago. And no, not in the immediate future....
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4
My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achieved. It is a consistent str...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4
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Probably this one, just because it is so different to everything else I have. Be warned though, it is very different and dramatic...
When Lorenzo met Joe
A couple of months ago Lorenzo Cifonelli asked me if I could introduce him to Joe Morgan next time Lorenzo was in London. Perhaps, he asked, we could even have lunch together. Finally – last Friday – we managed to make it happen. “I...
When Lorenzo met Joe
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You can buy them from C&M, yes, though they may well simply make one for you...
Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...
These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama. Mi...
Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...
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much obliged Simon. A...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be ...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
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It's not a normal weight, no, that would be much more like 11-13oz. If you want a versatile office suit, I wouldn't recommend it. I did have one, but regret it for that use. Yes it looks more sporting - more like a hacki...
Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...
Dear Simon, I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The la...
Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...
Match in comments:
I think you might have misunderstood my tone Roy. I meant stupid purely as a term of hyperbole - that there is a huge amount of it. French suits do have a much larger amount of hand finishing. However, it is also largely...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1
There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1
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Simon wrote: "Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a definite style: I would put Edward Sexton,(...)" In the BBC series on Savile Row (Style Genius) Edward Sexton himself says: "I have not moved to ...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 2
This is the second fitting on my navy three-piece suit from Chittleborough & Morgan. As with any tailor I try for the first time, I encouraged Joe (Morgan) to cut and make a suit to his style. It was interesting to see the differences from o...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 2
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No, not really. The more you try the more tired you get of working with a new cutter to get your pattern right. I only tried Joe because his style is so unique. Too much emphasis is also put on the brands of tailoring ho...
Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan
By popular request, here’s a picture of Michael Browne of Chittleborough & Morgan in his navy seersucker suit at the Savile Row event on Monday. Pretty special, isn’t it? Look out for the first post on fitting my Chittleb...
Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan
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I've always preferred linen personally - subtler perhaps than seersucker. But I'm actually trying out a suit at the moment, so we'll see how that turns out...
Savile Row Bespoke at London Collections: Men
Anda and Savile Row Bespoke outdid themselves yesterday, at the second The English Gentleman event. Held in the pavilion of Lord’s, there were dozens of suits on display from 19 different Savile Row houses. Most importantly, many of them had sp...
Savile Row Bespoke at London Collections: Men
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No, but it's a fairly standard lightweight worsted. It will be a merino wool, in something like a super 120 or 150, around 9 ounce...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)
As a quick teaser during our US-themed week, above is my suit from Chittleborough & Morgan at the basted stage. The broad, peaked lapels and strong shoulders are immediately obvious, but during the fitting the most interesting points were th...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)
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Hi Bradley, thanks for your note but the house coat is not mine. I'm not sure I would wear one - I prefer a heavy dressing gown if anything. I have a Budd one from Merchant Fox Simon...
Column on We Are The Market
Two months ago I began contributing to fashion site We Are The Market – as a little craft and classicism amongst the high heels and runway trends. Permanent Style readers might be interested to hear my thoughts on developing a relationship ...
Column on We Are The Market
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Thanks, no these old pieces aren't available any more...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one
I recently began a suit project with Joe Morgan, one of the most supremely talented cutters on the Row. Joe is both technically exacting and stylistically innovative. Not only does he make best use of the Tommy Nutter inheritance, updating those big ...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one
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Aha, thank you Martins! Good point...
Michael Browne: Style and the tailor
Most tailors, in my experience, do not have great style. It was always thus: tailors were pushed by their customers, and one of the problems with modern tailoring is the lack of stylish and educated customers to encourage new cuts, materials and styl...
Michael Browne: Style and the tailor
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Hi Jon, I've visited and seen some of Michael's ongoing work, if that's helpful. It's a nice lower-ground floor space on Berkeley Square, which Michael has decked out for him and an apprentice - lots of black. The work s...
