This is the second fitting on my navy three-piece suit from Chittleborough & Morgan. As with any tailor I try for the first time, I encouraged Joe (Morgan) to cut and make a suit to his style. It was interesting to see the differences from other tailors.




The first difference is rather large: the lapels. Joe, harking back to Tommy Nutter days, likes a sweeping peaked lapel, and they rather dominate the jacket. The collar is high and tight to the neck as well, partly to balance the lapels.

This extreme style stops it from being a business suit. But it will make it perfect for cocktails in the evening, with a white shirt and white handkerchief. And the waistcoat on its own will be very suitable for the office. I have written many times about the benefits of a waistcoat in the office, and Joe’s cloth back and Milanese buttonhole make this waistcoat look more like a jacket than any other. We will probably have two pairs of trousers to facilitate that multi-functional use.





In fact the most beautiful part of the suit is probably the transition from waistcoat to trouser. The way the points of the waistcoat run into the trouser pleats, lying flat against the cloth, is just lovely.

Few changes were made at my prompting. This is still essentially a basted fitting – Joe likes a lot of fittings – and these are for the tailor rather than the customer. Next time we will get to the finer points of style. For now, Joe and Michael (Browne) tinkered with the front balance and got used to quite how sloping my shoulders are. It often seems like it would be quicker to start from the vertical and work up.




Other points to notice: the lovely line of the trouser, fitting as flat to the thigh as is possible with double pleats; the close fit around the seat and small of the back; and the long, elegant skirt.



Photography: Luke Carby