Michael Browne ‘Body coat’: Style breakdown
Last year we did a series of articles analysing four of my overcoats from different traditions: Sartoria Ciardi , Cifonelli , Liverano and Edward Sexton . They were discussed, measured and picked apart in the ‘Style Breakdown’ ...
Michael Browne ‘Body coat’: Style breakdown
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I think bear in mind that I'm really reaching with that last photo, to show how far the pleat can stretch Luis. Also, you can't have that clean a back and have any freedom of movement if there isn't some kind of pleat th...
The case for the ‘stimulating’ shirt
By Lucas Nicholson. Whilst nattering away to Simon as I usually do on one of our days working together, I mentioned I had a revelation recently. In my past life at Drake’s, I always favoured slightly eccentric tailoring (cream cord suit anyon...
The case for the ‘stimulating’ shirt
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I may have recommended it here in the past, but I'd suggest taking a look at David Batchelor's Chromophobia. It traces the fear of color (and the "dangerous other") among the elite of western culture back to the venerati...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
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I just had a Gieves suit made and about to have one made by Fitzgerald. Curious what you see as their respective strengths and why you’d go with one versus the other for particular garments....
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
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Thanks Simon!...
Introducing: The nubuck tote
*Please purchase through the Frank Clegg website. They have all stock of both the black and brown versions of the bag* The idea behind the PS Shop is to produce occasional pieces of menswear that I love, but can’t find elsewhere. There is no ...
Introducing: The nubuck tote
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For something like that you probably need more structure and compartments, though the bag is going to be heavy either way, not much you can do about that. My Filson is a good example of a casual version of this briefcase...
Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review
Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing. Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...
Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review
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That would still look good, but it would certainly lose something - the greater bulk in relation to your physical size would change the proportions and the style...
Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor
Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS. He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he finally did - and moved into the...
Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor
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Hi VAL, I would certainly put Camps de Luca at the top in that category, yes. Others in Milan and Rome such as the branches of Caraceni also belong in that category, perhaps more so than Liverano. I wouldn't say there is...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style br...
Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accentuat...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style br...
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Thanks Phong. I'd say they're pretty similar...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...
For those that were interested in the Chittleborough & Morgan suit I wrote about last week, here are some more images. The photography was done by new online luxury magazine Essence, for whom I wrote a short piece on Anderson & Sheppa...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...
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Around a year ago. And no, not in the immediate future....
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4
My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achieved. It is a consistent str...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4
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Absolutely love it...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be ...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
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It's not a normal weight, no, that would be much more like 11-13oz. If you want a versatile office suit, I wouldn't recommend it. I did have one, but regret it for that use. Yes it looks more sporting - more like a hacki...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 2
This is the second fitting on my navy three-piece suit from Chittleborough & Morgan. As with any tailor I try for the first time, I encouraged Joe (Morgan) to cut and make a suit to his style. It was interesting to see the differences from o...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 2
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No, not really. The more you try the more tired you get of working with a new cutter to get your pattern right. I only tried Joe because his style is so unique. Too much emphasis is also put on the brands of tailoring ho...
Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan
By popular request, here’s a picture of Michael Browne of Chittleborough & Morgan in his navy seersucker suit at the Savile Row event on Monday. Pretty special, isn’t it? Look out for the first post on fitting my Chittleb...
Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan
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I've always preferred linen personally - subtler perhaps than seersucker. But I'm actually trying out a suit at the moment, so we'll see how that turns out...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)
As a quick teaser during our US-themed week, above is my suit from Chittleborough & Morgan at the basted stage. The broad, peaked lapels and strong shoulders are immediately obvious, but during the fitting the most interesting points were th...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)
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Hi Bradley, thanks for your note but the house coat is not mine. I'm not sure I would wear one - I prefer a heavy dressing gown if anything. I have a Budd one from Merchant Fox Simon...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one
I recently began a suit project with Joe Morgan, one of the most supremely talented cutters on the Row. Joe is both technically exacting and stylistically innovative. Not only does he make best use of the Tommy Nutter inheritance, updating those big ...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one
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It wasn't a cavalry twill I don't think, and it wasn't in a current bunch, but there wouldn't be much difference between this and a whipcord. Or rather, these types of cords will vary just as much within their type as be...
